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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

Archive of In the Magazine

In the Magazine 

5/12/08

9:30 AM

Secrets of Grand Sichuan, and Welcome to Scarpetta

Wildwood Barbeque

Olana comes in under Adam Platt's microscope.Photo: Zach Desart

In the magazine this week, Adam Platt bestows two approving stars on Olana and Mia Dona, while Gael Greene is mostly pleased with Wildwood Barbeque. The Robs provide insight on the world of Chinese food with the founder of the Grand Sichuan chain, and Amanda Freitag of the Harrison gives the Robs her recipe for lovage with gravlax. In "Openings," our food editors announce the arrival of three restaurants with backstories: Hundred Acres, the successor to the recently closed Provence; Scarpetta, Scott Conant’s new casual Italian in the meatpacking; and Curry-Ya, the latest Japanese import to the East Village. Plus, hotelier André Balazs launches his own wine. It's just another busy week in New York.

In the magazine. »

In the Magazine 

5/ 5/08

9:30 AM

Wylie Dufresne Creates a New Hot Dog for PDT

Taavo Somer

A Picknick in the park.Photo: Emilie Baltz

In the magazine this week, the Underground Gourmet bestows three stars on the New French and Gael Greene has early intel on Benoit. As the weather warms, so do the grills at outdoor restaurants — Rob and Robin compiled a list of favorites. Gramercy Tavern chef Michael Anthony shares his recipe for green-garlic sauce in this week's "In Season," and chef Wylie Dufresne creates a new hot dog for PDT. In "Openings" this week, Rob and Robin bring news of BarFry's replacement, Cabrito, and welcome Abigail Café and Wine Bar to Prospect Heights. Finally, can a farmed bluefin tuna save the planet? Only the Robs know for sure.

In the magazine. »

In the Magazine 

4/28/08

9:00 AM

Platt’s Deadliest Catch

fugu

Adam Platt, your dinner is ready.Photo: James Wojcik

In this week's issue, Adam Platt travels to Japan to see if he can eat the world's most dangerous meal. He also reviews Commerce, so he must have lived. Rob and Robin tell the story of a biryani so good that it inspired a tiny new restaurant, Sangam, on Bleecker Street. Not far away are Royal Cafe + Pastry, a new café, and Le Petite Belge, a Belgian waffles kiosk, news of which comes courtesy of the Robs. To round things out, Patti Jackson of Centovini shares her recipe for miner's-lettuce salad with pheasant eggs, and Gael Greene reviews the new Italian steakhouse Padre Figlio.

Pheasant eggs and fugu. »

In the Magazine 

4/21/08

9:30 AM

This Week, It’s the Little Things

persephone

Persephone's white-walled simplicity.Photo: Noah Sheldon

Small pleasures abound in New York, and this week's issue of the magazine highlights some of them. Sure, there are the major openings and reviews to consider: Rob and Robin issue birth announcements for haute Turkish East Sider Savarona and barbecue behemoth Wildwood, and Platt lays his weighty judgment upon the hapless Persephone and Elettaria. But what stands out this week are little joys: sucking crayfish as they're prepared by Joaquin Baca; a refreshing pink Basque wine recommended by the Robs; some fine butters, tested and presented by Gillian Duffy; and a small but promising-sounding Vietnamese restaurant, Tet, reviewed by Gael Greene. Meanwhile, the Zagats may be about to sell their empire. All this and more, in this week's issue.

Bring me the butter! »

In the Magazine 

4/14/08

9:30 AM

The Fruits of Ingenuity, in This Week's Issue

grilled cheese sandwiches

Really, what's better than a good grilled cheese sandwich? Or four?Photo: Noah Sheldon

The theme of this week’s issue, at least that of its food content, was immediately obvious to us: ingenuity. In a city so stocked and teeming with restaurants, how can chefs find niches to fill? A noodle bar is reconfigured as a poor man’s Masa and earns four stars from Adam Platt; a wine bar forbidden from hard liquor uses wine, port, and sherry to create cocktails; and a restaurant catering to wealthy clients produces foie gras–flavored dog biscuits. Rob and Robin, in their tireless rounds, suss out such acts of creativity but also stop to appreciate the simple things, like the chocolate cookies at Payard Patisserie, say, or a promising Japanese restaurant opening on 8th Street, or the grilled-cheese-sandwich program at the bar at Smith’s. Add to this an inexpensive Argentine grill encountered by Gael Greene, and it’s another week in the life of New York, and New York.

The stars align for Ko. »

In the Magazine 

4/ 7/08

9:30 AM

Pizza, Pretzels, and Bourbon — Sounds Dreamy

artichoke pizza

The true successor to DeMarco's?Photo: Zach Desart

Rob and Robin dominate the food section in the magazine this week, first with their Underground Gourmet review of Artichoke, an East Village pizzeria fit to be compared to the late, lamented DeMarco's. Missing the pretzels of your youth? Rob and Robin researched the city’s bread baskets and bar menus and compiled a guide to the salty treats. This week’s "Openings" include the Jason Denton’s highly anticipated Bar Milano, and the "In Season" recipe taps maple syrup’s role in Don Lee’s delicious bacon-infused bourbon at PDT. Gael Greene eats at Madaleine Mae this week, but if you want to eat in, Rob and Robin have compiled a high-end grocery list for you. And if all this makes you need a drink, Emma Rosenblum visited Weather Up on a recent Saturday night to survey the crowd.

Just how good is Artichoke? »

In the Magazine 

3/31/08

9:30 AM

Platt at Eighty One; Ago to Open

eighty-one

Not everyone that comes here will stay. Hear that, Eighty One?Photo: Noah Sheldon

New York's food world goes high-end this week, but with mixed results. Eighty One and Commerce are sampled by Adam Platt and Gael Greene, respectively, but neither is knocked out by their highly wrought creations. Rob and Robin report that Robert De Niro's Ago will open this week, aimed at the same power players who frequent the Hollywood, Vegas, and South Beach versions of the celebrity hangout. Even mighty Starbucks has found itself behind the curve and needs advice, which the Robs solicited from The Atlantic's Corby Cummer, Danny Meyer, and Jonathan Rubinstein from Joe: The Art of Coffee. If you cook at home, Chef Anita Lo of Annisa shares her fruit-soup recipe featuring the ugly but delicious crosnes.

Read more »

In the Magazine 

3/24/08

9:30 AM

Spanning the Globe, From Africa to Connecticut

merkato

If you can get Adam Platt to give you two stars for African food, you're doing something right.Photo: Zach Desart

This week's issue goes far and wide, from the past to the future, from Connecticut to remotest Africa. Rob and Robin have worked up a foodie spring break: four can't-miss restaurants that will compel you to rent a car and head out of town. No such effort is required to sample the cooking of Africa, via the kitchen at Merkato 55, which Adam Platt enjoys to the tune of two stars. On more familiar European ground, Gael Greene stops in at Mia Dona and finds much (though not everything) to her liking. There's a warm review of Arthur “the food maven” Schwartz's new cookbook, a definitive source on the story of Jewish foodways in New York. In "Openings" this week, Rob and Robin do us no favors by introducing an NYU-area cookie store catering to night owls. The Robs also mark the opening of Pomme de Terre, a bistro welcomed by residents of Ditmas Park.

Excuse me, is this I-95? »

In the Magazine 

3/17/08

9:30 AM

Good Times for High and Low in This Week's Issue

Adour

This is what a three-star restaurant looks like.Photo: Eric Laignel/Courtesy of Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis New York

These are high times we’re living in. Every stratum of society has something going for it. On the tippy top, the wine-swilling swells who frequent Adour can enjoy what, in Adam Platt’s view, is three-star cuisine. And their fellow plutocrats will enjoy South Gate’s posh but lively room and Gael Greene–approved food (well, except for the clams). But for the rest of us, Rob and Robin have a panoply of awarding options: There are the spring-inspired rhubarb hamantaschen made by Emily Isaac at Trois Pommes Patisserie; an interview the Robs did with Momofuku man Joaquin Baca, who now is doing the menu for world-class dive bar the Rusty Knot; and, adding to this embarrassment of riches, takeout sweets from Pichet Ong’s Batch, and a very appealing-sounding little Tuscan restaurant on Bleecker Street. On top of everything else, crackling is the latest snack trend. Good times, friends. Good times.

We've got crackling, we've got hamantaschen... »

In the Magazine 

3/ 3/08

9:30 AM

What’s the Best Food in New York?

fried chicken

The best vegan treat in New York (just kidding).Photo: Jamie Chung

It’s that time of year again: Restaurateurs and chefs have been sitting by, waiting to see who would receive Best of New York honors. There are a lot of them this year, from Best Ramen (Ramen Setagaya) to Best Goat (the recently maligned Fiamma). We won’t spoil the fun for you by going through the whole list, so just settle back and take them in. We guarantee it will be a lot more entertaining than the Oscars were.

Best of New York: Food [NYM]

More In the Magazine posts

2/25/08

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9:30 AM

This Week: New Fusion, New Coffee, Repurposed Water

2/18/08

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9:00 AM

Platt Disses Daniel, and Other Holiday Tales

2/11/08

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9:30 AM

We Haven't Had That Spirit Here Since 1968

2/ 4/08

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10:30 AM

Dovetail Takes Flight, Merkato 55 Opens, and All Is Well

1/28/08

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9:30 AM

Platt Pans Brasserie 44; Make Your Own Guacamole

1/14/08

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9:30 AM

Introducing the ‘Gastroteca’

1/ 7/08

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9:30 AM

Alain Ducasse Tries to Win Our Love

12/31/07

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9:04 AM

Where to Eat in 2008

12/17/07

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9:30 AM

Plenty of Edible Reasons to Love New York

12/10/07

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9:30 AM

It's Time to Get Excited About the Second Avenue Deli

12/ 3/07

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9:30 AM

It’s All Topsy-Turvy in This Week’s Magazine

11/26/07

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9:30 AM

A Respite From Gluttony in This Week's Magazine

11/21/07

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1:00 PM

A Sloppy Joe Sanctuary Opens Near MSG

11/19/07

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9:30 AM

Fiamma, Tailor, and Turkey Carry the Weight This Week

11/12/07

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2:00 PM

The Truffle Madness Continues for Another Week

11/ 5/07

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11:06 AM

Come Fly With Us in This Week’s Issue

10/29/07

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9:30 AM

It's a Haute Barnyard Type of Week in New York

10/22/07

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9:30 AM

Women Chefs Take the Reins in This Week’s Issue

10/15/07

|
9:30 AM

Go Around the World Without Leaving New York

10/ 8/07

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9:30 AM

Gridiron Gluttony and Haute Barnyard Gastronomy in This Week’s Issue

10/ 1/07

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9:30 AM

From Peanuts to Enotecas

9/24/07

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10:40 AM

Where to Shop Like a Chef

9/17/07

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9:30 AM

After the Catwalk, a Bagel for Wakiya, and More

9/10/07

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9:30 AM

This Week’s Issue Is All About Simplicity

8/27/07

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1:00 PM

Summer Ends and Life Begins Again, In Restaurant World

8/20/07

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5:30 PM

Rocco Pities the Poor Models, Treats Them to Bicycles

8/20/07

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9:30 AM

The Center Cannot Hold, and Why Would You Want It To?

8/13/07

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9:30 AM

A ‘Top Chef’ Surprise and Other Summer Treats

8/ 6/07

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3:30 PM

The Tragic Tales Behind ‘Top Chef’

8/ 6/07

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2:53 PM

New York’s Deliverymen Are Mad As Hell

8/ 6/07

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9:30 AM

It’s August, and the Eating’s Easy

7/23/07

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2:04 PM

Cheap Eats est Arrivé!

7/16/07

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10:30 AM

What Is Summer for But Barbecue, Ice Cream, and Vegetables?

7/ 9/07

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9:30 AM

Slipping Into Summer via Beer, Barbecue, and Gardens

6/27/07

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2:00 PM

Lily Allen Eats Blue Ribbon Sushi Four Times a Week

6/18/07

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11:00 AM

This Week, We Keep It Street

6/11/07

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9:30 AM

Choose Your Food Group Wisely: Which Side Are You On?

6/ 7/07

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11:00 AM

East Village Italian Empire Expands

6/ 5/07

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11:00 AM

Hill Country Opens With a Texas Menu and a Half-Burned Piece of Oak

6/ 4/07

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9:30 AM

Summer Brings Hot Dogs, Barbecue, and Department-Store Salads

6/ 1/07

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11:00 AM

Park Slope Gets Its Own Pastry-Chef Spinoff

5/30/07

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4:42 PM

Williamsburg Gets Another Wannabistro, and We’re Glad

5/29/07

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9:30 AM

The Food War Between Old and New Continues

5/24/07

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1:30 PM

Bodeguita Cubana May Not Be Authentic, But the (BYO) Drinks Are Cheap

5/22/07

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11:14 AM

Bar Stuzzichini Promises Conviviality, Eggplant

5/21/07

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9:30 AM

A Journey Through the Food Groups, and Thence to Bed

5/14/07

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9:30 AM

Small Precious Pleasures in the New York Food World

5/11/07

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12:00 PM

Sandro’s Latest Restaurant Is As Good As His Last One

5/10/07

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11:54 AM

‘Top Chef’ Winner Finally Gets in the Game

5/ 9/07

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1:49 PM

Spirito Helps Complete the Trattorization of Park Slope

5/ 7/07

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9:30 AM

New York’s Restaurant Jungle Grows a Little Lusher

5/ 4/07

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2:00 PM

Grom’s Gelato Conquers New York For Italy

5/ 1/07

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2:00 PM

Soto’s Sushi, Straight Outta Atlanta

4/30/07

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9:30 AM

Indulge in the Easy Life in This Week’s Issue

4/27/07

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2:00 PM

What Do Paradou Marché and Kenny Shopsin Have in Common?

4/26/07

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11:00 AM

Modern Spanish Comes (Back) to New York

4/23/07

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5:26 PM

FR.OG Finds the French Influence Everywhere

4/23/07

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11:00 AM

Nature Bursts From the Pages of This Week’s Issue

4/17/07

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9:00 AM

Pichet Ong Is Ready for His Close-up

4/16/07

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11:00 AM

Chefs Try to Take It to the Next Level in This Week’s Issue

4/13/07

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5:03 PM

Gold St. and Zipper Tavern Bring Much-Needed Help to Their Neighborhoods

4/12/07

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1:20 PM

Provence Opens Its Petals for Spring

4/11/07

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12:30 PM

Resto: Belgium Beyond Beer and Waffles

4/10/07

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3:06 PM

Dude, Did You See the Video of Michael Lomonaco and the Flounder?

4/ 9/07

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12:46 PM

This Week: Contents Under Pressure

4/ 3/07

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2:07 PM

Easter Meals, Six Ways (and Five Days) From Sunday

4/ 2/07

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12:00 PM

The Robs Go Oeuf Their Rockers, Platt Stops Short of Giving Morandi a Goose Egg

3/30/07

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4:04 PM

New Hipstaurant Opens in Williamsburg

3/28/07

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1:28 PM

Boi to Go Brings Bánh Mì and More to Turtle Bay

3/20/07

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10:59 AM

Fork-Crushed Potatoes: More Than Meets the Utensil

3/19/07

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10:31 AM

Platt Seduced By High Society; The Robs Wait Patiently in Line

3/ 5/07

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9:30 AM

The Best of New York. Yeah, That’s Right — the Best

2/26/07

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9:30 AM

The Robs Heart Kefi; Gael Greene Hits the Hawaiian Tropic Zone

2/19/07

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9:30 AM

Platt and Nieporent Meet Again; Anna Nicole’s Refrigerator Speaks

2/12/07

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9:30 AM

From Chelsea to Chinatown

2/ 5/07

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9:59 AM

Kobe Club Gets the Bagel, and Foie Gras Foes' Last Stand

1/31/07

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9:30 AM

Pay Attention to the Man Behind the Box

1/29/07

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9:30 AM

The Underground Gourmet, Now With a Side of News

1/15/07

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10:00 AM

Manhattan Brats Finally Getting the Luxuries They Deserve

1/ 8/07

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10:00 AM

One Coffee, One Falafel, and One Yogurt to Go

1/ 2/07

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5:00 PM

Where to Eat 2007: The Lazy Man's Guide

12/18/06

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5:20 PM

New Year's Eve: Where to Eat Before You Get Hammered

12/18/06

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3:23 PM

Increase Your Virility, Foodie Cred

12/11/06

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10:00 AM

Two More on the Burger Bandwagon; Hardly Any Space for Buns

12/ 5/06

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2:30 PM

Take a Shopping Break While You're Out Eating

11/29/06

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10:00 AM

Life Among the Beau Monde

11/27/06

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5:34 PM

Southern-Style Chicken, and Very Southern-Style Chicken

11/21/06

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3:00 PM

What Shall We Eat Now That It's Cold?

11/20/06

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1:00 PM

Pork and Chocolate: Two Great Tastes …

11/17/06

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3:00 PM

‘Fast Food Nation’: Will It Change Our Life?

11/16/06

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11:00 AM

Thanksgiving for Foodies, Dummies

11/15/06

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11:00 AM

Lower Eastpacking District Sees Gastronomic Surge

11/13/06

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11:00 AM

Gael Goes to the Port Authority; Ramsay Arrives, Presumably by Plane

11/ 8/06

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5:00 PM

Davids Chang, Burke Now in Convenient Video Form

11/ 7/06

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9:30 AM

Plutocrats Vie for Vintage Vino

11/ 3/06

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3:00 PM

Carbo-Loading Alla Italiana

10/25/06

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10:22 AM

Starve Your Way Into Immortality! Plus, Our Tater-Tot Diet

10/23/06

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9:15 AM

The Australian Invasion

10/16/06

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11:00 AM

Big-Time Bread Guy Waxes Rhapsodic on Baguettes

10/ 9/06

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10:30 AM

Godzilla (Platt) Versus Mothra (Robuchon)

10/ 9/06

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10:00 AM

New ‘Times’ Dining Editor Talked Smack About Frank Bruni

10/ 5/06

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1:38 PM

Sensitive Foodies to Take It Slow Tonight

10/ 2/06

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4:35 PM

The Underground Gourmet Contemplates Panini, Head Injuries

9/25/06

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10:00 AM

This Week, Your Cup Runneth Over

9/21/06

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12:24 PM

Today: A Sidewalk Pork Roast

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