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This week's New Yorker has a gripping profile of Grant Achatz, the brilliant chef of Chicago's Alinea who recently endured a life-threatening bout with tongue cancer. The profile describes a healthy but still pained young chef struggling to maintain his place as one of the country's leading cooks without the ability to, at least as yet, taste anything that he makes. The story is sort of tragic, sort of heroic, and definitely great.
A Man of Taste [NYer]
Forget about the food — how's the logo?Photo: Daniel Maurer
• Now that you’ve stopped eating mercury-laden bluefin tuna, get ready to part with Chilean salmon. A virus is wiping out millions of the fish that would otherwise be headed for the U.S. If the unsanitary conditions the fish live in won’t make you stop eating it, then the inevitable price increase will. [NYT]
• The inventor of McDonald’s classic Egg McMuffin has passed away at the age of 89. [AP]
• The cheese-mongers have spoken: Switzerland’s Gourmino Gruyère was selected from 2,000 different varieties at the 27th Biennial World Championship Cheese Contest as the finest cheese. The only place it can be purchased in the U.S. is Murray’s Cheese, which, by the way, will be spawning mini-franchises across the country soon. [Insatiable Critic]
Consultant Clark Wolf is in a rush to open artisanal-food stalls across from the old Fulton Fish Market by Memorial Day, but apparently this has nothing to do with the proposed New Amsterdam Public market. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: Batali Shows a Little Leg to Sex Up New Amsterdam Public
A lawsuit between a Queens Chinese restaurant and CW11, regarding Kaity Tong’s reporting on a mouse allegedly found in the food, is close to being thrown out since the lawyers can’t prove any malice on the newscaster’s part. [NYP]
Grant Achatz, star chef of Chicago’s Alinea, may have beat his tongue cancer, but his sense of taste may not return for a year or two. [WSJ]
Mary J. Blige and Foxy Brown’s producer, known to fans as Don Pooh, owns what is already being called the “hip-hop IHOP” that opened in downtown Brooklyn yesterday. [NYDN]
Related: The Phantom IHOP of Midtown West
Meatpaper magazine is a popular read with both carnivores and vegetarians, which is how the founders learned that bacon, delectable treat of treats, “is how vegetarians change their minds” when they revert to their meat-eating ways. [NYT]
Today in unsubstantiated rumors: David Bouley’s forthcoming Japanese restaurant/cooking school will open across the street from Upstairs at Bouley. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Related: David Bouley to Open Restaurant With Japan’s Top Cooking School
Grant Achatz is rewriting the cookbook.Photo: Patrick McMullan
Alinea's Grant Achatz Turns Down Lots of Money to Write a Book His Way [Serious Eats]
Team Tailor: Fran Derby, Sam Mason, Ryan Bartlow, and Amador Acosta.Photo: Melissa Hom
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