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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘anthony bourdain’

NewsFeed 

5/ 1/08

12:15 PM

Details Bubble Up About New York Wine & Food Festival

Not everyone is behind the New York version of the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, occurring October 9–12 (you’ll recall local restaurateurs had mixed reactions), but Eater brings news of events that may get more people behind it: In addition to Rachael Ray’s previously announced burger bash in Dumbo, there’ll be a multi-restaurant wine tasting in the meatpacking district; a wine seminar hosted by Del Posto; talks with Ferran Adria, Nigella Lawson, Alice Waters, and maybe Bourdain; and a private dinner prepared by Alain Ducasse. Hey, it beats smoothies and Italian sausage.

2008 NYC Wine & Food Festival: An Early Warning [Eater]
Related: A Blurry, Pleasant Preview of the New York Wine and Food Festival

NewsFeed 

4/22/08

2:15 PM

Nerve Can’t Stop Thinking About ‘Tom Collichio’

red egg

Totally hot for what's-his-name.

We were a bit perplexed when Nerve singled out Bobby Flay and Gordon Ramsay as lust-worthy celeb chefs, and the site’s readers seem to have agreed. A second round has now been launched, asking, “Who Would You Rather: Anthony Bourdain or Tom Collichio [sic]” — meaning, Colicchio. We're not perfect when it comes to spelling names, but c'mon: Get it straight when you're talking about your object of desire — unless of course they’re a porn star like Spantaneeus Xtasty.

Who Would You Rather, Celebrity Chef Edition, Part II [Nerve]

NewsFeed 

4/18/08

11:13 AM

Hang With Batali or Bourdain for $150

anthony bourdain and mario batali

You could be in this picture.Photo: Getty Images

According to Jersey’s Courier Post, Caesars Atlantic City is hosting a series of 100-person “Up Close and Personal” dinners, reasonably priced at $25 considering they'll be cooked by Mario Batali (on May 11), Tom Colicchio (on September 7), and Anthony Bourdain (on October 12). Wait a minute — Bourdain? Cooking? A rare opportunity! Not only that but for $150 you can have a “VIP Interactive Experience” with the chef. Which will be totally worth it if Bourdain goes off about German porn like the time he ranted about the Food Network.

The Rat Pack is revisited [Courier Post]

Back of the House 

4/ 8/08

4:55 PM

Webbies Bring Odd, Time-Wasting Sensations

mcdonalds chicken

Rated CV for Chicken Violence.Photo: awardentry.com

The Webby nominations are out, and, as ever, you have hours and hours of time wasting ahead of you as you peruse the nominees. (There seem to be about a hundred more categories every year.) We just went though both the food category and the restaurant one, as well as the categories that just happen to have food content, and they range from the totally inexplicable (Coke & Faithless) to the brilliant (Tony Bourdain’s Top Chef blog) to a site so badly designed that we wasted fifteen minutes trying to get past the Terms and Conditions page before giving up (Absolut Pears). But without question the most hypnotic is the McDonald’s chicken site, which features slow-motion video of chicken tenders being torn apart. Warning: The content is unthinkably violent.

Webby Award Nominees [Webbies]

Back of the House 

3/25/08

3:30 PM

Bourdain & Co. Give Their Picks for Beard Chef NYC

James Beard logo
This year’s race for the James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef in New York City (or, as we like to think of it, the Division 1A title) is a fierce one. We spoke to a mix of chefs, critics, and bloggers, and here are their responses. Not all are voting, but we think that, as a whole, they're pretty representative of what we've been hearing from within the New York restaurant community. The nominees, just to remind you, are Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern, Terrance Brennan of Picholine, David Chang of Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, and Gabriel Kreuther of the Modern. (Remember, Chang is being judged solely on Ssäm Bar, not for his work at Momofuku Ko.)

Read more»

NewsFeed 

3/14/08

12:15 PM

A Peek Into the Kitchen of Les Halles on a Not-So-Normal Night

Earlier, we brought you the aftermath of Eric Ripert and Anthony Bourdain’s one-night stint at Les Halles, and now, for those who missed it on No Reservations earlier this week, footage of the actual flustercluck has hit YouTube. Watch as “the fancy French guy and the broke-down guy,” as Bourdain calls Ripert and himself, try to keep up with executive chef Carlos Llaguno. The Ripper, clad in a do-rag, begs for margaritas while Bourdain tries not to pass out. Llaguno’s closing thoughts — “He says he loves his profession, but for some reason he became famous and he doesn’t need to cook anymore” — are kind of ominous in light of Alan Richman’s takedown of the “truck-stop cuisine,” but a note affixed to the kitchen window — “THAT WAS A FUCKING GREAT MEAL” — says that at least someone (if only a Travel Channel producer?) is happy.

Related: Anthony Bourdain - Into the Fire - Scene With Eric Ripert [YouTube]
Anthony Bourdain Insults Alan Richman Right Back

Beef 

3/13/08

11:00 AM

Anthony Bourdain Insults Alan Richman Right Back

gumby

Who would mind being mauled by Gumby?Photo: Getty Images

Alan Richman’s review of Brasserie Les Halles yesterday on his GQ blog seemed a not especially subtle slam of Tony Bourdain. “When I phoned the restaurant to ask [Bourdain’s] role there,” the critic wrote, “I was told he acts as a ‘consultant,’ although it’s hard to know what a place that specializes in the hoariest of French dishes would need from an American who wasn’t much of a chef back in the days when he worked at being one.” Meow! Given how long Les Halles has been around and how universally understood its mediocrity is, there could be no other reason to review it than to lay the hurt on Tony Bourdain. Bourdain, though, is unfazed by the attack: He tells Grub Street, “It was like being mauled by Gumby. Afterwards, you’re not sure it even happened.”

Kitchen Inconsequential [GQ]

Back of the House 

3/13/08

9:00 AM

‘Top Chef’ Is Back, and Adam Platt Isn't Happy About It

Tom

Tom and Richard, a.k.a. "Sharkface."Photo courtesy Bravo

Finally, after an interminable wait only broken by doses of Top Chef books, cell-phone games, and Sudoku, the series itself is back. This season is set in Chicago, and the cheftestants are a motley lot who nearly all fell on their faces trying to make deep-dish pizza. The elimination challenge was even more devastating, as the formidable Erik just managed to avoid the boot, leaving that dishonor to the young, uncertain Nimma. Naturally, within seconds we were online with Adam Platt, trying to make sense of it all.

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/10/08

3:30 PM

Tony Bourdain Is His Own Forum Troll

A new post is up on the Bourdain blog, but there’s no need to comment yet. Bourdain, in looking back at having wrapped up the latest season of No Reservations, decided to anticipate the response by giving “a few helpful advance reviews — to save food nerds time when the shows actually air.” These prereviews (“I found the civitos at San Marco, a tiny place next to the mercado, far superior to the place Bourdain went. And the morcillas he ate are nowhere near as good as the ones at.......”) are the work of someone who has read quite a few forum posts. And, we suspect, even written a few.

Past Imperfect/Future Shock [Anthony Bourdain's Blog/Travel Channel]

NewsFeed 

3/ 4/08

3:30 PM

Sixth Borough Gets a New ‘Phood’ Blog

Yummy.Photo: Courtesy of Phoodie.info

Anthony Bourdain may have dismissed Philly as a “two-horse town” (Starr and Perrier), but since it is after all the “sixth borough” (a term coined by our own Jessica Pressler) and since scenesters may soon embrace the mid-Atlantic, we thought we’d turn you on to Philebrity’s just-launched food blog, Phoodie.info: So far, its coverage is delightfully snide, and we’ve learned that the town’s burrito scene, at least, is thriving! But with all due respect to the “Reaper” pretzel at Trax Food Market, what we really love is this hamburger dress created by a Messiah College grad. We’ve already bought one for our future wife.

Phoodie.info [Philebrity]

Back of the House 

2/28/08

4:09 PM

Bourdain Regrets His Semi-Nude Image More Than We Thought

Tony Bourdain wasn’t about to take our mockery (and everybody else's) of his naked Travel Channel ad lying down. So he blogged about it: “What tiny, deeply disturbed demo were they trying to appeal to here? German Scat Porn websites likely attract greater numbers. What about the CHILDREN!? I look forward to the next ad — of my head, photo-shopped onto Barney Fife’s naked body torturing a puppy. Now THAT will draw them in!” The whole post is not to be missed and also happens to include the fact that the aquamarine water Bourdain is eerily floating in is not in fact tropical but rather Icelandic. We were wrong on that score (though our commenters knew better), but we were right about it being creepy. Even Bourdain thinks so!

Adventures in the Ad Trade [Bourdain Blog]
Earlier:: Anthony Bourdain Officially Overexposed

Back of the House 

2/27/08

5:15 PM

Anthony Bourdain Officially Overexposed

Anthony Bourdain

But not this thing.Photo: Broadcast and Cable via Copyranter

Copyranter came across this ad of a floating Tony Bourdain gazing at us from tropical waters. Like the image of a hirsute Tom Colicchio, we find it discomfiting. This is one of several ads touting the Travel Channel’s high-definition programming. Presumably, if you have a hi-def TV, you’ll be able to see more of Bourdain than you’d ever want.

...and some things are not [Copyranter]

Foodievents 

2/24/08

11:16 AM

Bourdain Fends Off Angry Chefs at Batali Dinner

Bourdain, Batali

Anthony Bourdain and Mario Batali are BFF at SOBE.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Much was afoot last night here in South Beach, between the evening’s somewhat staid main event, a tribute dinner to Jean-Georges Vongerichten, big after-parties at the chefs-only 212 Access House and Versace Mansion, and a Mario Batali dinner at Danny DeVito’s eponymous South Beach restaurant. There, at close quarters in the kitchen, Batali worked the pasta station; Del Posto and Babbo chefs Mark Ladner and Frank Langello on sauté; Adam Perry Lang cooked immense “103” rib steaks with vast, protruding bones; and Jamie Oliver helped out as needed.

Read more»

Foodievents 

2/23/08

11:11 AM

Unlimited BBQ and Champagne Brings Out the Carnal Chef at SOBE

Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain blesses Chris Lilly's pulled pork.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Bubble Q, SOBE’s Champagne-barbecue tasting party, may have been visible from the air last night. We made our way through the smoke-filled tent dodging mirror bars and fifteen-foot-high speaker stacks. We were happily waylaid by the endless chef’s tables and Champagne bars. Among the highlights:

Read more»

NewsFeed 

2/22/08

3:30 PM

Bourdain and Ripert Postgame Over Tequila in the Les Halles Kitchen

A while back, we revealed that Anthony Bourdain was planning to return to the kitchen of Les Halles for an episode of No Reservations. A clip of the show’s aftermath is now up, and it’s priceless: Post-shift, Bourdain and Eric Ripert sit down for what Ripert calls a glass of “pure water,” but is probably his favorite Patrón Silver. True to his name, the Ripper rips into Bourdain for having just one person at a station that he thinks should be manned by two — “Those guys are promoting slavery.” Bourdain pooh-poohs him: “If you put two people back there, they get in each other’s way.” But he admits it’s one of the toughest cooking stations in the city. Which is why, Bourdain says, he wouldn’t last long on it: “After a week, my brain would snap.” Our favorite part comes at the end, when Ripert admits, “At one point I was totally lost.… I had no idea what I was grilling.…” In tequila veritas!

Anthony Bourdain Interviews Chef Eric Ripert [YouTube]
Related: Bourdain to Cook at Les Halles, Yearns for Giant Food Courts

NewsFeed 

2/14/08

1:55 PM

What to Expect From the New ‘Top Chef’

If only there were a Padma commentary track.Photo courtesy Bravo

We just screened the first episode of this season’s Top Chef, and again, we find the show compelling. And just the same as previous ones! Padma speaks slowly, Tom is bald and cocky, and Rocco DiSpirito and Tony Bourdain are back onboard. The location is a nonfactor — the main contribution Chicago makes is a Pizzeria Uno product placement. But the contestants still fit into those archetypes we love to argue about with Adam Platt.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

1/29/08

12:00 PM

Rachael Ray Feeds Sicko YouTube Fantasies

Yesterday, "Page Six" ran a blind item asking which “daytime gabber” snips at staffers for bringing her the coffee she endorses rather than Starbucks. Hmmm, wonder who that could be? Speaking of Rachael Ray, yesterday also saw the debut of two YouTube videos taking the stuffing out of the impish toque. One of them imagines Anthony Bourdain stealing her nose and serving it stuffed with foie gras. We’re not sure how that qualifies as a “mildly erotic parody,” as advertised, but we can tell you that the other video, “Rachel Ray Is a Sex Freak” [sic], is safe for work only if you have headphones, since it uses audio to imagine Ray teaching sex education to New England debutantes. Yucko!

Anthony Bourdain Talks Rachael Ray’s Old News [YouTube]
Rachel Ray is a Freak/Sex Goddess/Cooking Queen [YouTube]
We hear… [NYP]
Earlier: Rachael Ray Brushes Off Her Starbucks Scandal As “Ridiculous”

Mediavore 

12/14/07

10:00 AM

Esca Chef to Work for Mets; Bourdain Back on Food Network

Esca chef David Pasternack will be right at home in the new Mets stadium come 2010, running a place called the Fish Shack. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: Hark! New Shake Shack to Open at Shea Stadium

Kim Severson just ruined our breakfast with a look at PETA’s "Got Pus?" campaign and the question of whether or not milk contains pus. Let's all share the nausea, shall we? [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

A Brooklyn pizza maker accused of gunning down a mobster was acquitted yesterday, but the case still reinforces those old mafia-in-cahoots-with-Italian-joints stereotypes. [NYDN]

Read more»

Back of the House 

12/13/07

2:40 PM

Bourdain’s Duck Farm Was No Potemkin Village

Seconds later, this duck attacked.Photo: iStockphoto.com/Chris Beddoe

There’s been some buzz the last few days about Anthony Bourdain's Holiday Special, a likable, perverse piece of holiday programming recently on the Discovery Channel. (It's like A Charlie Brown Christmas, except with foie gras, instead of a spindly tree.) The highlight of the show is Bourdain’s visit to a Hudson Valley foie gras farm, where he finds that ducks really don’t mind being force-fed and that foie gras is (surprise, surprise) all right to eat after all. Having visited the same farm ourselves, we can testify that the birds don’t seem to mind a periodic forced-stuffing; their long throats are built to handle whole spiny fishes, so a smooth tube going in for three seconds doesn’t bother them any more than a drunken handful of tater tots would you or me.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

12/ 4/07

9:00 AM

Bourdain to Cook at Les Halles, Yearns for Giant Food Courts

Anthony Bourdain

Bourdain on the state of Siberia, and more.Photo: Melissa Hom

Tony Bourdain was at the Union Square Barnes & Noble last night to do a joint reading and signing with Michael Ruhlman, author of The Elements of Cooking. Interviewing Bourdain is effortless: The man is a nonstop font of opinions and bons mots, so we just took out our notebook and started writing. What, for instance, did he think of the reopening of his favorite bar, Siberia? (“When Siberia closed my life as an alcoholic ended,” he said wistfully. “Tracey [Westmoreland] is a man of many mysteries. I’m skeptical. Siberia reopening? [Sarcastically] Yeah, I’d like to see that.” Bourdain also told us that, sometime in the next two weeks, he was going to go back for one night to his old job at Les Halles, personally working the sauté station on a crowded night for his TV show, No Reservations. And he would not be alone back in the trenches: A few feet away, Eric Ripert would be working the grill station, cooking meat all night.

Given all of his travels, what does Bourdain think New York needs? A giant food court, of course.

Read more»

Mediavore 

11/16/07

10:35 AM

Meyer and Batali Face Off; Gordo's Advice on the Closer

Meyer, Batali, Nieporent, and others compete to see who’ll serve VIPs at the new Jets/Giants stadium. Interesting! And how does this affect Meyer’s rumored plans to take Shea Stadium by ShackStorm? [NYP]

Gordo’s first-date fail-safe: Take your girl to Ducasse’s place in Monaco, then tell her what you really want is roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. Wow — the guy's like something straight out of The Pick-Up Artist! [Forbes]

Naked Chef Jamie Oliver, in town to promote his book, says his feelings are hurt from being slagged by Bourdain: “You rate someone [like Mr. Bourdain] and then they think you're a bit of a pussy. It's not very inspiring.” [Globe and Mail]

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/19/07

10:00 AM

Bourdain Showing ‘Iron Chef’ Some Love; Dévi Back in Action

The worst thing Tony Bourdain can say about the new Top Iron Chef is “that Ruhlman’s hair is the scariest and most offensive aspect of the show … In every other respect, the damn thing is pretty impeccable.” [Ruhlman]
Related: Who Will Be Cut Next on ‘The Next Iron Chef’?

Enterprising chefs Suvir Saran and Hemant Mathur will have their recently acquired restaurant Dévi reopen by Monday. [Eater]
Related: Debriefing Dévi: Suvir Saran’s Suspected Side Projects

Jessica Seinfeld’s Deceptively Delicious cookbook is uncomfortably similar to another cookbook published a few months before it, which also encourages moms to put spinach in brownies. [NYT]
Related: Hey Jessica Seinfeld! What Up? [Daily Intel]

Read more»

Back of the House 

10/11/07

2:30 PM

Chefs Continue to Rock, and We Reach for the Earplugs

Chef Rock

hPhoto: iStockPhoto.com

First the Spin article in which Anthony Bourdain remembers the glory days of CBGB, then Metromix starts a “Kitchen Radio” column in which chefs talk rock (the first subject, Jimmy Bradley, says he listens to Zeppelin in the kitchen and compares his cooking to the drumming of Charlie Watts), and now the Times asks Fergus Henderson for his playlist. We’re glad to see it’s remarkably diverse — including cuts from Handel, Etta James, William Blake, Fela Kuti, and The Jungle Book soundtrack — because this thing of rock-and-roll chefs (and we’re not talking about Kerry “The Rock and Roll Chef” Simon) is getting a little tired. Whether it’s Sam Mason’s Dinner With the Band show, David Chang comparing the opening of his second restaurant to Pavement’s Crooked Rain, Crooked Rain, or Mario Batali dancing his ass off at a U2 concert where he hilariously snaps a camera-phone photo of himself singing “With or Without You” with Michael Stipe, we get it. Chefs like to rock. We’re warning you: This will only get worse. Think Joël Robuchon bragging of mixing batter with Lars Ulrich’s drumstick.

Related: Bourdain’s Spin Essay Is Pretty Thin Soup
Living With Music: Fergus Henderson [NYT]
Michael Stipe Beautiful Day [YouTube]
Kitchen Radio: Jimmy Bradley [Metromix NY]
Dinner With the Band [On Networks]

Beef 

10/11/07

11:20 AM

Bourdain Blasts Rachael Ray, and It's Not Yum-O

Bourdain, Ray

They're smiling now, but Anthony Bourdain and Rachel Ray are plotting each other's deaths.Photos: Getty Images

According to "Page Six" today, Anthony Bourdain has a serious problem with Rachael Ray endorsing Dunkin’ Donuts. Yes, the man who waxed nostalgic about the “the bitter, delicious taste of heroin in the back of my throat” in last month’s Spin believes Ray is being “evil” and “over the line” in endorsing what he considers “crack for kids.” But should Bourdain really be running his mouth? Never mind that he smoked Marlboros while telling GQ’s Website about his favorite old-man dive bars — he’s also the guy who told Powells.com, “Is there anything better than a maple bacon donut? I don’t think so.” Apparently it’s perfectly okay to endorse doughnuts as long as they have life-giving bacon in them!

Related: Rachael’s Dunkin’ Gig “Evil” [NYP]
PBR, Strippers, and Kitsch [Style.com]
Earlier: Bourdain’s “Spin” Essay Is Pretty Thin Soup

Mediavore 

10/10/07

10:13 AM

Bourdain's Reaction to ‘Top Chef’; Goldfarb and Cluizel Sittin' in a Cacao Tree

Bourdain considers “Hung’s well deserved victory … a nice, stiff middle finger to all those boneheads who’ve been predicting that ‘The producers are setting it up so Casey will win,’ as well as the poor, deluded souls who feel they can somehow taste food through the television screen.” Are you listening, Adam Platt? [Bourdain's Blog/Bravo]

Michelin Guide director Jean-Luc Naret wants chefs on their toes: “One thing you have to understand is that stars are not engraved in marble, but crystal, and that they can break easily.” [Metromix NY]

Will Goldfarb is officially shacking up with Michel Cluizel at ABC on a dessert café, and Patricia Yeo has abandoned Monkey Bar after leaving Sapa to work on the project in March. [NYT]
Related: Cluizel, Goldfarb to Join Forces in Dessert Pact
Patricia Yeo Leaving Sapa, Opening Rib House; Something About a Monkey

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/ 5/07

10:00 AM

New Blue Ribbon Chef a Bouchon Bakery Alum; ‘Top Chef’ Reactions

The chef for Blue Ribbon at Six Columbus will be Bouchon Bakery alum Jose Salazar. [Hotel Chatter via Eater]

By the end of Top Chef, even Frank Bruni got a little sentimental. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]
Related: Adam Platt Was Right About ‘Top Chef’ All Along

Rocco hearts Hung. [Eat for Victory/VV]

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/ 3/07

10:00 AM

Bouley's New Japanese Restaurant Off the Chain; ‘Top Chef’ Producer Tells It Like It Is

The restaurant that David Bouley plans to open next year with Japan’s largest professional cooking school will be a multilevel space featuring a robata grill, a Japanese room with Western touches, and a kaiseki dining room serving Kyoto-style seasonal tasting menus. [NYT]
Related: David Bouley to Open Restaurant With Japan's Top Cooking School

Scott Bryan has left Veritas, and not for 10 Downing Street, apparently. And, in underwhelming FloFab news, Daniel Boulud still hasn't chosen a name for his master's burger restaurant, and Lever House's Deborah Snyder is the new pastry chef at Alto and L’Impero. [NYT]

The executive producer of Top Chef answers questions about cheftestants who hook up and challenges that didn't make the cut. [NYDN]

Read more»

Mediavore 

9/28/07

10:14 AM

No Rest for the Red Hook Vendors; Bourdain Considers 'Top Chef' Episode a Waste

Can the Red Hook Vendors never rest? Now Cesar Fuentes is causing concern for resigning and threatening to sue the same people he represented. [NYT]

Bourdain considers Wednesday’s Top Chef a waste, as the producers snagged Eric Ripert only to “shoehorn him into a Scout jamboree” when “it would have been nice, given the all-too-rare presence of a distinguished specialist, to see what the kids could REALLY do with fish.” And why won't Hung cook Vietnamese? [Bourdain’s Blog/Bravo]

Discrimination lawyer Marc Rapaport is surprised by his own defense of O’Reilly in a Times op-ed about the Sylvia’s incident, saying “it is apparent from [his comments’] context that O’Reilly was actually attempting to dispel racial stereotypes regarding African-Americans.” [PR Web]

Read more»

Back of the House 

9/28/07

9:00 AM

Eating the Last Supper

Last Supper

The centerfold for Hot Molecules magazine.Photo: ©from My Last Supper by Melanie Dunea/ CPi. published by Bloomsbury

We’re not much for coffee-table books, but the forthcoming My Last Supper is so shockingly weird, and shockingly good, that we would consider buying it. “What would your last meal be?” is a popular question for chefs, but the answers here are far better than you would expect. (Masa Takayama wants to cook for Orthodox Jews; Wylie Dufresne would eat vegetables “just to placate my mom.”)

Read more»

User's Guide 

9/27/07

3:30 PM

Grub’s Gold: The Best From Year One

Scenes from a year on Grub Street…Photo: Melissa Hom, Lee Balterman/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images

Ah, how time gets away from us! It was only one year ago that Grub Street began. How we long for those innocent days of yore! We poked through our archives, and, while we had to put a few personal favorites aside, here’s our short list of Grub Street’s Greatest Hits.

Read more»

In Other Magazines 

9/24/07

2:40 PM

Bourdain’s ‘Spin’ Essay Is Pretty Thin Soup

Anthony Bourdain

As Spin says:
"Anthony Bourdain, left, sharpening his wit back in the day."Courtesy of Spin

No offense to one of our favorite writers, but Anthony Bourdain’s stories are starting to become as rehashed as the specials he warned us against ordering in Kitchen Confidential.. Yes, Tony, we know that during the year 1977, you were shooting up, listening to punk, and hitting the after-hours clubs — as we’re reminded in this essay in the latest issue of Spin. And we know about “the bathroom of CBGB, awash in turds, glassine bags, condoms, and used works.” (This may have been what Paul Levy meant about bravado-filled writing.) We’ll say this, though: Even if Bourdain’s essay doesn’t say anything new (couldn’t he have at least looted his boss’s charcuterie during the blackout?), the piece is worth a look just for the photo of the man sporting a machete and locks reminiscent of Howard Stern. We can just imagine the “bitter, delicious taste of heroin in the back of [his] throat”!

Related: Eat to the Beat [Spin]
British Toff Decries the Coarseness of Modern Food Writing

NewsFeed 

9/19/07

4:45 PM