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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘beef’

NewsFeed 

5/29/08

9:30 AM

Bubby's Makes a Major Cow Commitment

beef diagram

Nothing is wasted but the moo.

“Nose-to-tail” cooking has become a white-hot fad among today's progressive chefs, who are as proud of their reverence for animal carcasses as they are of their Zagat ratings. But invariably, the commitment to using every last bit of an animal has been limited to pigs. Where's the guy who is going to use every bit of a 1,200-pound steer? According to Ron Silver of Bubby's, he is that man. Silver is buying local grass-fed steers from Slope Farms in Meredith, a farm founded by a former Park Slope doctor, Ken Jaffe, who named the place after his old neighborhood. Jaffe raises the animals naturally, and Silver has committed Bubby's to using every last bit of beef from them. (Slope Farm also supplies the Park Slope Food Co-op.) There's steak, yes, but also steak and kidney pie, oxtail soup, roasted marrowbones, and chicken fried tri-tip steaks. (And here we always thought of Bubby's as a place to get biscuits.) The restaurant has even started a “Bubby's Beef Blog,” Silver says. “If anyone else wants to do whole steer, we can help them. A lot of great things can be done, and it's a sustainable way to think about one's meat.” Bubby's seems determined to become a true meat mecca: Silver also tells us that, come fall, those steer burgers will be sold 24 hours a day.

Bubby's Wholly Cow Blog

NewsFeed 

3/13/08

4:30 PM

Colin Alevras: Do You Want Marrow With That?

Colin Alevras

Maybe instead of a bun, I could use these...Photo: Melissa Hom

Having accomplished his dream of serving the eggs of eight different birds at one brunch, Haute Barnyard enfant terrible Colin Alevras of the Tasting Room is now contemplating his own high-end burger. But only if it “isn’t just another burger or some kind of over-the-top tarted up silliness. It had to have integrity.” Fair enough. So what did Alevras come up with? “I’m still working on it,” the chef tells us, “but we won’t be using pork fat like some people do, because then it’s just a sausage.” (Take that, Ryan Skeen!). “I want to put neck meat in there and tongue and heart and a little bit of calves’ liver for flavor. And why use fat, which just melts away anyway? I’m going to use marrow for fat, which will stay intact and also have a beefier, deeper taste.” Alevras is ensconced in bun and cheese issues, but the burger will debut for brunch service on March 30. Its name? The Old McDonald Burger. How's that for Haute Barnyard?

Related: The Tasting Room Lays Eight Eggs on Us

Mediavore 

3/13/08

10:00 AM

Ilan Hall to Open Tapas Truck in L.A.; Chefs Keep on Blogging

Top Chef champ Ilan Hall’s rumored L.A project is now a restaurant truck that serves tapas and has a foldout bar. [MSNBC]
Related: For Ilan Hall, a Taco Shack of One’s Own

The president of Westland/Hallmark Meat Co., the California beef company responsible for the largest meat recall in American history, acknowledged yesterday the illegal slaughter of sick cows at his plant after a congressional panel forced him to watch the undercover video depicting the abuse. [WSJ]

Chefs’ blogs keep getting better and better, and there are increasingly more and more of them. At what point are they all just going to leave the kitchen and become full-time bloggers? [LAT]

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Mediavore 

2/25/08

10:00 AM

Anne Burrell Is Riding High; Jean-Georges's Foot Problem

Centro Vinoteca chef Anne Burrell’s inspirations? Why, only the people she’s worked for, including Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali. [NYDN]

Crowds gathered at Cafe La Fortuna, the small 71st Street storefront once patronized by John Lennon and Yoko Ono, for its last day. [Lost City]

Bobby Flay has a new TV show, and you can have a small part of it. [Eater]

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Mediavore 

2/22/08

10:00 AM

Serafina Goes to South Beach; Pepsi Goes Raw

Serafina, which has six Manhattan locations, will open an outpost in Miami’s W South Beach Hotel in mid-2009. [NYP]

In a move that surprises no one, the beef industry is trying to convince the FDA to scale back the largest recall in history. [WSJ]

Speaking of that bad beef, the federal government bought 50 million pounds of it, 20 million of which has already been consumed in various federal nutrition programs. [NYT]

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Mediavore 

2/ 7/08

10:00 AM

Boston Mayor Makes Good on Super Bowl Bet; Diet Sodas Linked to Metabolic Syndrome

Remember that little food bet Hizzoner made with Boston’s mayor over who’d win the Super Bowl? Well, pay-up time has come, and our northern neighbors will be donating 100 cups of New England clam chowder, 42 lbs. of coffee from Dunkin’ Donuts, twelve dozen Boston cream pies and twelve dozen Parker house rolls, 100 Old Tyme hot dogs and 100 Al Fresco chicken sausages, twenty pizzas, five cases of Brigham’s Boston You’re My Home ice cream, five cases of Cherry on the Top frozen-yogurt bars from Elan, and 100 servings of Stonyfield Farm Organic Yogurt to City Harvest. Happily, no one has to eat it. [Zagat Buzz]

Drop that Diet Coke! Researchers have found a correlation between the consumption of diet soda and incidences of metabolic syndrome, a series of unhealthful factors that can lead to diabetes and heart disease. [NYT]

More bad news for fish: The FDA confirmed that several outbreaks of ciguatera fish poisoning have taken place across the country due to consumption of fish harvested in the northern Gulf of Mexico. [AP]

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User's Guide 

1/14/08

9:00 AM

DeBragga and Spitler Will Supply Great Steakhouse Meat. Should You Buy It?

Sure, it looks good, but $40 good?Photo courtesy DeBragga and Spitler

Steakhouses are valued for one thing: their meat. There are no chefs, and no one goes there for the décor. So if the meat is available elsewhere, such as DeBragga and Spitler’s new retail operation, why bother with the steakhouse? The beef supplier, one of New York’s most established, was once the source for most of the city’s top steakhouses, and still supplies some of the best, such as Craftsteak and BLT Prime. Now you can buy a steak that is “exactly, absolutely” the same, says DeBragga’s Marc Sarrazin. Other top meat operations, like elite-meat specialist Pat LaFrieda, and small-farm evangelist Heritage Food USA, have made their stuff available to the public as well. So the question is this: Is it worth it?

Read more»

NewsFeed 

1/ 8/08

9:00 AM

Adam Perry Lang Seeks to Create the Perfect Beef Animal

Perry Lang, brewing up some bovine genetics. Or paella.Photo: WireImage

In the meat business, sourcing is the ultimate boast: It’s not enough to claim your meat is “prime,” when any meathead worth his cholesterol knows how promiscuously that once-proud term is thrown around. No, today’s steakhouse has to have boutique sources or, even better, their own prize bull, as at Primehouse NY. But no meat man has a more obsessive take on quality than Adam Perry Lang. The Robert's and Daisy May chef tells us that he’s currently in the process of researching what will be his own beef program in Montana. “It’s so important to understand it, to be able to control what’s happening. I want to say that I’m doing everything I can to get it where I want it. I want to raise beef the right way. I want to know I’m doing the right thing.”

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Beef 

1/ 4/08

1:07 PM

FDA to Beef Industry: Send in the Clones

They laugh alike, they walk alike, at times they even talk alike…Photo Illustration: iStockphoto

The FDA is expected to declare meat and milk from cloned livestock safe to eat next week. So far, media coverage has been hilarious. Whole Foods has already issued a statement that includes our favorite new phrase: “Whole Foods Market is committed to providing consumers with clone-free products.” And the Wall Street Journal, which first reported the news, penned this gem: “The meat industry is more bullish on cloned products than the dairy industry.”

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The Orange Line 

10/ 3/07

5:15 PM

Riding the Orange Line: Herald Square’s Unforgotten Hash Bar

We're riding the B and V from Coney Island all the way to Forest Hills, jumping off frequently to rave about our favorite restaurants and food stores near the subway.

This Week: Hash at Keens Steakhouse

Herald Square, with its discount stores and the horrific Manhattan Mall, is merely an obstacle between you and MSG. But snake your way through the grim and random maze of cut-rate merchandise and defeated-looking office workers, and you’ll find yourself at Keens Steakhouse, one of the city’s last bastions of hash.

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NewsFeed 

8/30/07

11:00 AM

Shake Shack Hamburger and Little Owl Pork Chops Can Soon Be Yours

LaFrieda beef for Shake Shack: Now it can be yours. (Treo present to indicate scale.)Photo: Josh Ozersky

The famous ground-beef mixture from Pat LaFrieda has been the talk of burger circles the last few years — a dizzying time in which the Spotted Pig, Shake Shack, Stand, and half a dozen other contenders have taken the previously humble sandwich to the proverbial next level. The source of all that burger greatness, as Men’s Vogue recently wrote, is LaFrieda, the city’s top source for high-end wholesale meats. Scratch the wholesale part! Soon, and for the first time ever, the burger that launched a thousand blog posts will be available at the retail counter at Market Table, Joey Campanero and Mike Price’s new restaurant in the West Village.

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NewsFeed 

8/ 7/07

11:00 AM

The Steak World’s ‘Portrait of Dorian Gray’

Not shown: 135-day, currently on display at the Met.Photo: Melissa Hom

When the first thing we hear about a piece of meat is that “it doesn’t taste at all like Roquefort cheese,” we tend not to get overly excited. But when it’s Shane McBride talking, we stop and listen. Craftsteak holds the record for the longest-aged steaks in New York, topping out, until recently, at a ridiculous 56 days. (That’s about twice as long as the standard month, which itself is a rarity in this day and age.) Now the chef has taken to serving strip steaks aged for truly unheard-of lengths of time — including one that went 78 days before cooking. We’d assume that such extreme mummification would result in the meat taking on a ghoulish funk, but McBride assures us otherwise.

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NewsFeed 

8/ 3/07

1:55 PM

After 120 Years, Peter Luger Introduces a New Steak

Run, children! They’re out of porterhouse at Peter Luger!Photo: Getty Images

Peter Luger’s menu has changed about as much as Stonehenge: You can get a porterhouse steak, lamb chops, hash browns, and tomato-and-onion salad. Technically, there's salmon on the menu and maybe a few other sides, and they did add bacon, but the genius of the place has been in its simplicity. But as of last month, a rib-eye steak, a relative bargain at $38.95, is for sale. (The slim, seldom-ordered single strip steak is the same price.) It’s the restaurant’s first new steak in 120 years. Why the sudden change?

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Back of the House 

7/17/07

11:00 AM

Progressive Purveyor Cornering the Market on Boutique Meat

We're here, we sell steers, get used to it: from left, meat men Mark Pastore, Pat LaFrieda Sr., and Pat LaFrieda Jr.Photo courtesy Pat LaFrieda

Like Old MacDonald’s farm, which had a duck duck here and a duck duck there, the web of artisanal-meat sources has been spread pretty wide. There’s no central terminal, no Union Square Greenmarket where the best small-farm beef, pork, and lamb congregates; and the lack of infrastructure has been gumming up the works as New York’s best restaurants move from generic commodity meat to the Haute Barnyard versions preferred by chefs. Now, though, Pat LaFrieda, the city’s most progressive wholesale meat supplier, is quickly becoming the source of “boutique” meats.

Read more»

Mediavore 

5/23/07

10:15 AM

Jay-Z Now Has 100 Problems; Beef Prices Through the Roof

Jay-Z now has 100 problems: He’s being sued by the staff of the 40/40 Club for withholding tips and paying less than the minimum wage. [NYP]

Beef prices are getting higher, and the supply of the best stuff getting shorter. Guess what that means for your next steakhouse bill. [NYT]

There is a slew of new restaurants opening in the Hamptons, although none are what you would call world-shaking. [Newsday]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

2/14/07

5:00 PM

Real-Life Troy McClure Takes Beef Ethics to the Next Level

I'm Bill Kurtis. You may remember me from such films as ...Photo courtesy A&E

Since the death of Phil Hartman, no one besides Troy McClure has embodied the old-fashioned, stentorian-voiced announcer like A&E’s Bill Kurtis. (It was Kurtis who narrated Anchorman — click here for a sound clip.) But what you may not know about the American Justice host is that he owns a huge cattle ranch in Kansas and that his all-natural, pasture-raised, purebred Hereford beef, marketed under the name Tall Grass Beef, will be available soon in New York.

Read more»

 

 

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