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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘commerce’

Two for Eight 

7/17/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Commerce and Graffiti; the Stanton Social Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Modern American Cuisine.

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Two for Eight 

7/ 1/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Hearth and Graffiti; Dressler and the Stanton Social Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Modern American Cuisine.

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Two for Eight 

6/17/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Eighty One and Graffiti; Prune and Dovetail Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Modern American Cuisine.

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Two for Eight 

6/ 3/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Dressler and Hearth; the Stanton Social Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Modern American Cuisine.

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The Other Critics 

5/14/08

9:30 AM

Eighty One Earns Two Stars and a Bon Mot; the Harrison Starts Out With a Rave

Frank Bruni finds Eighty One to be busy, a little vain, but on the whole very good — although he wishes they would ease up with the duos and trios already. Great Bruni line of the week: “[The] oversize red velvet booths that look as if they were carted in from a bordello on some planet where the prostitutes are 12 feet tall.” [NYT]

Amanda Freitag's move from Gusto to the Harrison is now officially a success, as her first major review is a five-star job from Jay Cheshes. Cheshes loves the room and makes a point of praising the “ought-to-be-legendary duck-fat fries with lemony mayo.” [TONY]
Related: Psilakis, Freitag Simultaneously Reinvent Vinegar-Flavored French Fries

Dinner was okay in the early going for Restaurant Girl at Ago, with the pizzas and appetizers doing their job. But then the pastas and proteins came, and with them a string of adjectives — “gamey,” “salty,” “sloppy,” “oily,” and “overcooked” — that reduced the place to a single star. [NYDN]

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The Other Critics 

4/30/08

9:45 AM

Ko’s First Non-Rave Finally Arrives; One Star for Commerce

The first less-than-stellar Ko review is in and suggests that reality is creeping in. Yes, the food was terrific, but you’ve already heard all about it, and the staff isn’t particularly friendly. Plus, “[s]itting on backless, uncushioned wooden stools for more than two hours can be a challenge for the best of us.” [WSJ]

It’s one-star time for Commerce; Frank Bruni admires chef Harold Moore’s as “ambitious and unpredictable,” but not necessarily in a good way. And the place is LOUD. [NYT]
Related: Commercial Appeal

A surprise two-star review for the mostly unnoticed Korhogo 126 in Brooklyn; Restaurant Girl loves the African spices. But did she really have to say that it had “soul”? [NYDN]
Related: Embattled Bistro Now Serving ‘Nouveau African’ at Korhogo 126

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In the Magazine 

4/28/08

9:00 AM

Platt’s Deadliest Catch

fugu

Adam Platt, your dinner is ready.Photo: James Wojcik

In this week's issue, Adam Platt travels to Japan to see if he can eat the world's most dangerous meal. He also reviews Commerce, so he must have lived. Rob and Robin tell the story of a biryani so good that it inspired a tiny new restaurant, Sangam, on Bleecker Street. Not far away are Royal Cafe + Pastry, a new café, and Le Petite Belge, a Belgian waffles kiosk, news of which comes courtesy of the Robs. To round things out, Patti Jackson of Centovini shares her recipe for miner's-lettuce salad with pheasant eggs, and Gael Greene reviews the new Italian steakhouse Padre Figlio.

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Engines of Gastronomy 

4/25/08

5:30 PM

Commerce’s Athanor Oven Is a Chef Magnet

athandor oven

Want a ride, hon?Photo: Melissa Hom

Commerce isn’t the first restaurant you would expect to spend almost $100,000 on a world-class custom oven, but chef Harold Moore says “it’s good for the chef’s ego.” He’s only half-joking: “We need serious cooks here, and they don’t get much money, so we need some serious equipment. It gives us an edge in getting them and keeping them.”

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The Other Critics 

4/ 2/08

9:30 AM

Two Bruni Stars for Mia Dona; Mostly Good Things for Merkato 55

Frank Bruni rewards Michael Psilakis for his practical efforts to create, in Mia Dona, an affordable restaurant with two stars. (And possibly to make up the third star Anthos should have gotten.) [NYT]

Overall, Restaurant Girl cottons to Merkato 55, though she reserves her fullest praise on account of a few “flubs” and boring desserts. She likes the energy and audacity of the place, though. [NYDN]

Paul Adams has more or less the same sentiments: He likes the place, but it “doesn't dazzle.” Then there are these words, which no doubt the restaurant dreads reading: “not as flavorful as the version I get for half the price uptown.” [NYS]

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In the Magazine 

3/31/08

9:30 AM

Platt at Eighty One; Ago to Open

eighty-one

Not everyone that comes here will stay. Hear that, Eighty One?Photo: Noah Sheldon

New York's food world goes high-end this week, but with mixed results. Eighty One and Commerce are sampled by Adam Platt and Gael Greene, respectively, but neither is knocked out by their highly wrought creations. Rob and Robin report that Robert De Niro's Ago will open this week, aimed at the same power players who frequent the Hollywood, Vegas, and South Beach versions of the celebrity hangout. Even mighty Starbucks has found itself behind the curve and needs advice, which the Robs solicited from The Atlantic's Corby Cummer, Danny Meyer, and Jonathan Rubinstein from Joe: The Art of Coffee. If you cook at home, Chef Anita Lo of Annisa shares her fruit-soup recipe featuring the ugly but delicious crosnes.

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The Other Critics 

3/26/08

9:30 AM

Mas Revisited for Two Stars; Three Takes on Mia Dona

Mas, tucked away into an odd corner of the West Village, has been off the city’s radar for a while, but has been plugging away, and now been rewarded by a very appreciative two-star rereview by Frank Bruni. [NYT]

Steve Cuozzo goes wild for Mia Dona: “The impossibly inexpensive, all-Italian sequel to prematurely shuttered Dona is also almost impossibly good — and not just in relation to the prices.” Alrighty then! [NYP]

Paul Adams, though noting some early lapses, likes Mia Dona too, but says that it falls into the uncanny valley between the refined (Anthos) and the rustic (Kefi). [NYS]

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Neighborhood Watch 

3/18/08

3:00 PM

Hill Country's Pit-Smoked Easter; Commerce Bartender No Fool

East Village: The dishes in Rhong-Tiam’s spice challenge (the prize for finishing the tasting menu is free dinner at a different Thai restaurant) aren’t as unbearably spicy as you’d expect, and the chef will give you a beer when you’re finished. [Gothamist]
Flatiron: Hill Country's serving up a pit-smoked Easter dinner this Sunday. [Strong Buzz]
Fort Greene: A boatload of restaurants in the neighborhood are offering prix fixe dinners for $23 next week for Dine in Brooklyn, including Chez Oskar, Olea, and Scopello. [Clinton Hill Blog]
Harlem: A reader feels that Slice NY severely underrates Patsy's. [Slice NY]
West Village: Commerce's bartender deals adeptly with douche bags. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]

Neighborhood Watch 

2/22/08

3:00 PM

Don't Skip the Bread at Commerce; Oh, Yoko, Save Café La Fortuna!

Bay Ridge: One of the city’s greenest cake shops, Little Cupcake Bake Shop, actually makes awesome cupcakes, too. [NewYorkology]
Carroll Gardens: Frankies’ third location is sizable, but still at least a few months from being completed. [Eater]
Upper West Side: Blossom at 466 Columbus Avenue is a candlelit vegan restaurant with a fireplace. [Gridskipper]
Former John Lennon and Yoko Ono favorite Café La Fortuna is closing this Sunday. [Lost City]
West Village: At newly opened Commerce, Andrea Strong "had the bread basket of the century," which included "about a half-dozen types of bread, all fresh baked in house that morning. There was a buttery mini brioche, an sourdough olive roll the shape of a fat bullet, a ciabatta and a sesame roll, and my favorite, and one that I think they should turn into a bar snack with mustards and cheese—the soft malt pretzel." Sounds like a good start. [The Strong Buzz]

Neighborhood Watch 

2/ 6/08

3:00 PM

Sparkling-Pink Sake Might Tickle Your V-Day Fancy in Hell's Kitchen; Commerce Opens Tomorrow

Chelsea: RUB and Swich are just two under-$10 lunch options in this list devoted to the nabe. [Gridskipper]
East Village: A Spanish wine bar called Pata Negra opens Friday at 345 East 12th Street. [NYT]
Flatiron: A Voce pastry chef Josh Gripper classifies himself as single and dangerous. [Restaurant Girl]
Fort Greene: Don’t hold your breath waiting for lamb sliders from the French-Moroccan restaurant that was supposed to open on DeKalb Avenue; the space wasn’t completed, and the sign and menu have already been taken down. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Hell’s Kitchen: If you want to explore dining options outside our comprehensive Valentine’s Day Guide, you could look to Kyotofu, which is serving a three-course dessert prix fixe promising a raspberry Valrhona-dark-chocolate fondue and Hou Hou Shu pink-sparkling sake. [Kyotofu]
West Village: Commerce opens tomorrow in the former Blue Mill Tavern space and there will be a 20 percent discount on food through Monday. [NYT]; the last outlet of Flor’s Kitchen will shut itself down this Sunday citing problems with the landlord. [Eater]

Neighborhood Watch 

1/ 8/08

3:15 PM

Tribecans Don't Want Buster's Garage Back; Drink and Win Big in Park Slope

Chelsea: The Bright Food Shop space will become a Qdoba, part of a chain of Mexican restaurants. [Crazy Fingers via Blog Chelsea]
Midtown West: In honor of Rockefeller Center's 75th anniversary, the ice rink and the Rock Center Café are running a special that includes a two-course dinner and skate rental for $75. [Grub Street]
Park Slope: Pacific Standard now offers a Frequent Drinker program, which awards points that can be traded for prizes like an All-Expenses-Paid Trip to Williamsburg including a subway ride and dinner at Fette Sau, a membership to BAM, or a Pacific Standard Tattoo. Yes, a real tattoo. [Gothamist]
Tribeca: Residents are fighting the return of rowdy Texan haunt Buster's Garage. [Fight Busters via Eater]
Upper East Side: Steven Salsberg and Erminia owner Nikola Camaj are opening a "socially and environmentally" correct wine bar on Monday in the former DT UT space. [Restaurant Girl]

Mediavore 

1/ 8/08

10:15 AM

Seinfeld Sued Over Cookbook; Goldman Employees to Eat Steak

Sneaky Chef author Missy Chase Lapine has sued Jerry Seinfeld for defamation after he called her a “wacko” in response to her allegations that his wife plagiarized her cookbook. [NYDN]

The beloved Moondance Diner, which survived a trek from New York to Wyoming, has partially collapsed under the weight of fresh snow. [Casper Star-Tribune via Eater]
Related: The Moondance Diner, Neglected in Wyoming, Now a Shell of Itself

Commerce, chef Harold Moore’s forthcoming restaurant, is slated to open in February, but still no word on the cuisine. [The Feed/TONY]
Related: Harold Moore of March to Take Over Grange Hall–Blue Mill Space

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