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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘daniel’

Two for Eight 

7/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit; Le Cirque, Picholine, and Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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NewsFeed 

7/14/08

9:00 AM

Bocuse d’Or Short List Out Thursday

bocuse d'or

Image courtesy Bocuse d'Or

The identities of the sixteen lucky chefs heading to Orlando in September to qualify for the Bocuse d'Or will be announced on Thursday at Daniel. On July 24, the eight two-chef teams will be briefed at the French Culinary Institute on competition cooking and prepare one dish, which will be evaluated by Daniel Boulud. The European selection process is already complete, and thirteen teams from Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Iceland, Luxembourg, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom are preparing for the cooking Olympics. Will the forces of American gastronomy, even after their crack training in Napa Valley at Thomas Keller’s culinary compound, be able to surmount all that manpower? We'll start placing bets on Thursday.

Earlier: Roland Henin to Coach Team USA in Bocuse d'Or
Everything You Wanted to Know About the Bocuse d’Or Competition But Were Afraid to Ask

User's Guide 

7/ 9/08

5:18 PM

Five Chef Families

In the beginning (or around 1941), Henri Soule created Le Pavillon. Le Pavillon begat La Côte Basque … and the New York restaurant genealogy began. Ever since, every restaurant that attains prominence in New York serves as a feeder system: A chef makes his bones and leaves to open his own effort, and his chef de cuisine rises to chef; the sous becomes chef de cuisine, and so on down the ranks. In this way spreads the great New York family tree of restaurants. Some are oaks mighty enough to support several branches; others more closely resemble saplings from A Charlie Brown Christmas.

We’ve created our own set of chef family trees here, charting the stars that emerged from four of New York’s best restaurants, Le Cirque, Daniel, Jean-Georges, and Craft, plus the now-closed-but influential 71 Clinton Fresh Food. Given the popularity of cocktail bars, we also looked to see what Pegu hath wrought. Chefs (or mixologists) on the tree must be currently heading their own kitchen (or, as in the case of Johnny Iuzzini, a pastry kitchen). Welcome to the triple-canopy jungle that is the New York restaurant scene.

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Two for Eight 

7/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Cru; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

6/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine; Bar Boulud and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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NewsFeed 

6/20/08

9:30 AM

Chang Bans Food Photography at Ko; Chefs, Bloggers Prove Resistant

Momofuku Ko

One of our own stolen images from Ko.Photo: Don Lee

David Chang's no-photography policy at Ko was bound to cause a stir — after all, along with its draconian reservations policy, the stolen furtive glimpses of dishes you might never taste helped make the restaurant the city's ultimate food-porn fantasy. Chang is probably right in thinking that cameras disrupt the meal, but he is alone in creating a ban, according to an informal survey by Serious Eats. "It's just food. Eat it," Chang said to explain his rule. But Messrs. Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, and Drew Nieporent all feel that there's little they can do about it. At Daniel, they'll try to hide you away where you won't cause too much commotion; Nieporent just wants you to “be considerate of the other people in the restaurant,” and Batali has the most liberal attitude of all, refusing to “stop joyous foodies clicking an occasional photo of the food on the table with a small camera.” For someone that, at least until recently, hated food bloggers, this is an especially enlightened position to take.

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Two for Eight 

6/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Picholine; Balthazar and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/20/08

2:30 PM

Josh Gripper Leaves A Voce

Josh Gripper

Joshua Gripper is headed to Daniel.Photo courtesy of A Voce

As the Andrew Carmellini era at A Voce draws to an end, some of his kitchen staff are looking elsewhere for work. Josh Gripper, the hugely talented young pastry chef whom Carmellini discovered, is on his way out. “I’m not comfortable with [the ownership’s] direction, and I don’t think it would be a smart move to stay with them,” he says. Gripper is heading to Daniel, Carmellini’s home for so many years, where he will work as a sous-chef with Dominque Ansel, the head pastry man there. “Sometimes, you need to take one step back to take two steps forward. It’ll be good for me to have a four-star restaurant under my belt,” he says. Gripper's move could be temporary, depending on where Carmellini lands.

Related: A Voce's New Pastry Chef Is Homegrown

Two for Eight 

5/14/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Daniel and Etats-Uni; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/ 2/08

1:14 PM

Ice, Ice Baby: Gleaming the City's Best Cubes

ice cubes

Daniel's orchid ice.Photo: Melissa Hom

Sure, it sounds funny when Eben Freeman tells us that Angel’s Share was “the first place I started to see ice.” What he means, of course, is that not until recently have the city’s mixologists been giving frozen water the attention it deserves. Twelve years ago, Freeman recalls, Angel’s Share used a hand-cranked grinder to make their crushed ice. When Milk and Honey opened, Sasha Petraske began making larger cubes from vintage trays. His bartenders still famously cut their ice from a large block before each night’s service. Recently, machines previously available only in Europe have brought clearer, colder, larger cubes (perfect for agitating a drink in the shaker and decreasing dilution in the glass), and some mixologists have started freezing everything from orchids to raspberries. Let’s take a look in the freezer, shall we?

Slideshow: Ice, Ice Baby

Two for Eight 

4/28/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine and Cru; Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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Blueprint 

4/22/08

5:00 PM

Daniel Boulud Designs (and Describes) the Perfect Home Kitchen

Daniel Boulud was recently invited by Bilotta and Electrolux to create the perfect home kitchen, and the results are on display at the 36th Annual Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club Annual Decorator Show House, at 200 East 66th Street. While a lot of the elements (Japanese cutlery from Korin, Christofle flatware, emersion blender) aren’t in the picture, we asked the chef about the ones that are. Mouse over the pointers to read about them described in Daniel Boulud’s words.


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Two for Eight 

4/10/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Café des Artistes and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

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NewsFeed 

4/ 2/08

1:00 PM

Would You Like a Surveillance Camera With That?

surveillance

Subject is playing footsie with date…has refused bread service…Photo: iStockphoto

In 1785, philosopher Jeremy Bentham designed the Panopticon, a prison in which you could see everybody all the time, without them knowing. But he never thought people would be eating there! Restaurants all over New York are keeping an eye on diners and employees alike, an article in today’s Post reports.

The uses for the surveillance differ from restaurant to restaurant — Daniel uses it to monitor service, Phillipe staffers are rumored to ogle make-out sessions, Momofuku Noodle Bar peers at God knows what — but the fact remains the same: Keep your hands to yourself and don’t get out of line. Big Brother is watching you from the kitchen.

Entree View [NYP]

Two for Eight 

3/25/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Fleur de Sel; Le Cirque and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

3/20/08

12:25 PM

Daniel’s Dominique Ansel Lays the City’s Biggest Easter Egg

dominque ansel

Don't even ask about the creamy center.Photo: Barry Johnson

Yesterday, we presented some nice dessert porn, in the form of a gorgeous slideshow of the city’s top Easter treats. Today brings us an even more prurient image: the 80-pound, three-foot-high chocolate egg created by Dominique Ansel of Daniel to celebrate Easter. Sadly, the brown behemoth won’t be available for eating anytime soon. “You could eat it, though; it’s very good,” the chef says. “It’s all Valrhona chocolate. I just decided to make it one day. I told Daniel, ‘I have a small egg here.’ He saw it and said, ‘Oh, shit!’ He loves it.” The egg will be on display through next week in Daniel’s lobby.

Earlier: Slideshow: It's an Especially Edible Easter This Year

Two for Eight 

3/ 7/08

4:00 PM

Le Cirque and Picholine Mostly Booked; Le Bernardin Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Back of the House 

2/25/08

5:00 PM

Global Warming Endangers Black Truffles; Gourmands Despair at God’s Indifference to Suffering

Gather your black truffles while ye may...Photo: AFP/ Getty Images

We had a good bit of sport over the astronomical prices paid this past summer for white truffles in New York restaurants. But what if their black cousins, long the déclassé branch of the family, became even more expensive? Or disappeared entirely? That wouldn’t be so funny. And it wouldn’t be good for the price of white truffles, which, like Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup, could become a purely plutocratic pleasure sooner than we expected. (Not that truffles are evil in the way of Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup; we’re just thinking of endangered luxury foods, you understand.) An article in USA Today suggests that the global warming is currently bringing the hammer down on black-truffle production and that (gasp) “France's black truffle will one day be just a memory.” It’s a similar story around the world, as fish stocks are depleted, ecosystems are knocked out of whack, and global demand for things like toro and truffles move beyond a small cluster of ascot-wearing bons vivants.

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Two for Eight 

2/20/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at La Grenouille and Café des Artistes; Balthazar Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

1/18/08

4:00 PM

Balthazar and Le Bernardin Fully Booked; Picholine Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

1/14/08

4:00 PM

Special Valentine's Day Two for Eight: Tables Available at Alto; Asiate, Chanterelle Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner on Valentine's Day; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.)

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Two for Eight 

1/ 3/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

12/ 6/07

4:00 PM

Daniel and Le Cirque Fully Booked; La Grenouille Mostly Booked

It’s after 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

11/14/07

4:30 PM

Tables Available at Café des Artistes and Le Cirque; Gordon Ramsay Full Booked

It’s after 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/ 6/07

2:22 PM

Daniel Hires Its First Female Maître D'

Maite Montenegro: breaking the maitre' d barrier.Photo courtesy Daniel

The position of chef remains overwhelmingly male, a fact we wrote about recently in the magazine, but maître d', the functional boss of the dining room, has been if anything even more so. That’s why the promotion of Maite Montenegro to head maître’ d' at Daniel this week is so notable. The maître d’ is the ultimate restaurant authority figure, the person that knows how to treat everybody and whom everybody trusts and looks to for guidance.

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Two for Eight 

10/29/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Daniel and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/15/07

2:01 PM

Come Summer, a New Look for Daniel

A timeless classic … at least till summer.Photo courtesy Daniel

Daniel, arguably the grandest of the city’s top dining rooms is planning a rehab, though it won’t be until the summer. Though neither the restaurant nor its patrons are dissatisfied with the current room (and why would they be? It looks like the gateway to the afterlife, circa 1895!), the renovation will keep the place fresh. “Upper East Side ladies get their face-lifts before they’re needed,” spokeswoman Georgette Farkas tells us. “It's something we’ve been thinking about. But Daniel doesn’t want to do anything too revolutionary.” Farkas wouldn’t name names, but a source close to the restaurant says designer Adam Tihany, who did Le Cirque 3.0 and Osteria del Circo, is topping the short list of candidates. In the meantime, the Daniel empire has plenty to keep it busy: Bar Boulud is still slated for a December opening; Maison Boulud, in Bejing, will open in March; and Boulud’s downtown burger bar is, sadly, still unnamed.

Related: Exclusive: Feast Your Eyes on Bar Boulud, Coming in November

Mediavore 

10/12/07

10:00 AM

De Niro's Tribeca Grill Sued; Fines Talk in City's Trans-Fat Fight

De Niro’s Tribeca Grill is the latest restaurant to be sued by ex-waiter complaining that managers skim tips. [NYP]

Kiwis consider the real key to Gordo’s New York success to be “Waikato farmboy” chef de cuisine Josh Emett. [New Zealand Herald]

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Two for Eight 

10/11/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Etats-Unis and Café des Artistes; Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/10/07

8:11 AM

Zagat 2008 Smiles on Daniel, Gordon Ramsay, Others

The people have spoken!Photo courtesy Zagat

New York’s little red book, the 2008 Zagat guide, is out today. It is more significant to the restaurant world than the Michelin guide, and for good reason: The same people who use it are the ones who write it. So what if it’s a popularity contest? Life is a popularity contest. There were some minor shakeups in this year’s rankings, such as Union Square Cafe retaking its sibling Gramercy as most popular restaurant, and Daniel retaking the top spot in cuisine from Le Bernardin. But the more interesting points required a slightly closer look.

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NewsFeed 

9/28/07

12:37 PM

Your Chance Has Come at Last to Eat Boulud’s Food for Free

Just another day at the stove at Williams Sonoma.Photo courtesy Daniel Boulud

Chef demonstrations tend to be pretty grim affairs, and the so-called “tastings” that come with it even worse. (Usually, it’s a sample of whatever horrible product the chef is currently shilling.) Tomorrow’s demo by Daniel Boulud at the Time Warner Center's Williams Sonoma, though, will be a rare chance to actually eat the chef’s actual food. The chef is promoting The Cafe Boulud Cookbook, but there's a bonus Bar Boulud tasting, too.

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Two for Eight 

9/25/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at La Grenouille and Café Gray; Balthazar Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

The In-box 

9/17/07

5:20 PM

Take Your Teenager to the Chef's Counter, Not the Chef's Table

The soundproof panopticon that is Park Avenue Summer's chef table Photo: Melissa Hom

Grub Street,
I am attempting to find establishments that have a table in their kitchens. I have a teenager who is interested in the industry and I thought this would be fun to do together!
Yours,
An Encouraging Mother

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Two for Eight 

9/10/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Picholine; Balthazar Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»