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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘daniel boulud’

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

5:10 PM

Cuozzo Hammers the New Wave of Absentee Chefs

mystery chef

Um, the chef isn't here right now…Photo-illustration: iStockphoto

Steve Cuozzo brings it hard in today’s Post, jumping on a new generation of absentee chefs with both feet. The Cuozz finds it bad enough when it’s a Daniel Boulud or Jean-Georges Vongerichten who's not holding down the fort, “but today, kitchen-aversion has infected much lesser talents and pops up at restaurants where the chef is MIA almost from Day One.” You can well imagine whom Cuozzo has in mind in this diatribe: The classic Post illustration features milk cartons with Zak Pelaccio, Marcus Samuelsson, Todd English, and Alain Ducasse on them. (Their photos are with "What, me worry?" expressions for comic effect.) It’s a stinging rebuke, all right, and backed by first-person condemnations of recent meals at Pelaccio’s Chop Suey and Ducasse’s Benoit. It’s not just about kicking high-profile chefs, though: Cuozzo makes the point that the chef is a managerial role, and, when he or she is not present in a restaurant, especially a new one, the food inevitably suffers, as it did at his visits to Bar Q and Five-Napkin Burger, when Anita Lo and Andy D’Amico, respectively, weren’t there. The only place that comes out of the article unscathed, more or less, is Bar Boulud, which Cuozzo sees as having developed to the point that the kitchen is up to speed even without Daniel there cracking the whip. Which, for Cuozzo, is exactly the point.

Chef Search: Where Are the Great Chefs of NYC? [NYP]

NewsFeed 

7/17/08

1:00 PM

Bocuse Board Will Select Replacement Chef Today

When Damon Wise, the corporate chef for Craft, withdrew his name from the Bocuse d’Or semifinalist list today, it caused some confusion for Team USA. Would he be replaced? And if so, by whom? The advisory board isn't going to wait long to find a replacement: "The board will be making an announcement today on who the replacement candidate will be," says Jennifer Pelka, the executive coordinator for Bocuse d'Or USA. Neither Wise nor Craft reps gave any official explanation at the press conference, but we are awaiting comment from Wise. Our guess is that a three-and-a-half-month hiatus for training was not compatible with Wise's job at the Craft empire, especially if Tom Colicchio is planning a new tasting-menu restaurant.

Update: Damon Wise tells us, “The amount of time commitment the contest requires is just not going to fit into my schedule very well. It would be an honor to be involved in it, but once we saw the schedule, it’s just too much time away."

Related: Hung Huynh Is Among U.S. Bocuse d’Or Semifinalists
Tom Colicchio Intends to Cook in New Restaurant

NewsFeed 

7/14/08

9:00 AM

Bocuse d’Or Short List Out Thursday

bocuse d'or

Image courtesy Bocuse d'Or

The identities of the sixteen lucky chefs heading to Orlando in September to qualify for the Bocuse d'Or will be announced on Thursday at Daniel. On July 24, the eight two-chef teams will be briefed at the French Culinary Institute on competition cooking and prepare one dish, which will be evaluated by Daniel Boulud. The European selection process is already complete, and thirteen teams from Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Iceland, Luxembourg, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom are preparing for the cooking Olympics. Will the forces of American gastronomy, even after their crack training in Napa Valley at Thomas Keller’s culinary compound, be able to surmount all that manpower? We'll start placing bets on Thursday.

Earlier: Roland Henin to Coach Team USA in Bocuse d'Or
Everything You Wanted to Know About the Bocuse d’Or Competition But Were Afraid to Ask

Foodievents 

6/13/08

4:20 PM

The Great Chefs Pay Tribute to Their Even Greater Masters

andre soltner and bill peet

André Soltner and Bill Peet at Lutèce, back in the day.Photo courtesy Citymeals-on-Wheels

Chefs, like Jedi Knights and Sith Lords, begin their careers apprenticed to a master, whom they eventually grow to replace. In the case of European chefs, these masters might cast a shadow over their whole career — especially given that, unlike New York circa 2008, a chef might not get his own major restaurant until middle age. So Crème de la Crème, a huge benefit being held for Citymeals-on-Wheels on June 16, is particularly special for any student of transatlantic gastronomy. Our great chefs will be paying tribute to their mentors by cooking one of their signature dishes, and in some cases the chef will be there in person. So Bill Peet, of Patroon, will make a smoked-salmon mousse in tribute to his mentor, André Soltner, as well as a dish representing his own mastery — in this case, smoked prawns with roasted tomato and mango vinaigrettes. Charlie Palmer will pay homage to Jean-Jacques Rachou; Daniel Boulud to George Blanc and Paul Bocuse; Tom Colicchio to André Daguin. Obviously, this is a can’t-miss event for devotees of the old school, and we’re told that tickets are still available. They’re $600 a pop and can be had via the event's Website.

Crème de la Crème: America’s Star Chefs Salute the Legends of French Cuisine [Official site]

The New York Diet 

6/13/08

9:00 AM

Rising Star Chef Gavin Kaysen Celebrates With Lamb’s Heart

gavin kaysen

"I go to the Spotted Pig maybe two or three times a month."Photo: Melissa Hom

Gavin Kaysen cooked all over the country and in Switzerland and in London under Marco Pierre White before becoming the executive chef at Café Boulud last year. Even working for one of his heroes Daniel Boulud, he was unsure whether he had made the right call. “Whenever you take a risk moving from one place to another, especially New York City,” he told us, “you always question if it’s the right move.” Any doubt about that evaporated when he won the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef of the Year Award last week. “I was blown away,” he says. We asked Kaysen how he ate and drank his way through this week of celebrations.

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NewsFeed 

6/10/08

12:15 PM

Stephanie Isn't Top Chef Yet — Despite Wishful Thinking

top chef stephanie

Stephanie Izard keeps her eyes on the prize.Photo courtesy Bravo

Stephanie Izard is the favorite to win Top Chef, at least in some quarters. Today, the Chicago Sun-Times salutes its hometown heroine with ten reasons why Stephanie will win. Most of these, predictably, involve Chicagoland virtues (“You gotta love a chef who knows how to pair food with beer and throw a tailgate party”) or her not being Gorgon Lisa (“She has the best personality of the remaining contestants”). More wishful thinking appeared on Eater yesterday, when a tipster wrote in to note that Stephanie was eating with Daniel Boulud at Florent late Friday night. “Could this mean Stephanie might have won Top Chef?” the tipster asked. Let's not jump to conclusions, gang. We actually stumbled upon Stephanie and her boyfriend hanging around in front of the Spotted Pig that night; they weren't planning on socializing at Florent, but after a little persuasion, they were up for some spontaneous hobnobbing. So while she did nab a seat at the periphery of Boulud’s Last Supper, she's not waltzing around with a golden ticket to the inner circles of celebrity chef–dom, either. At least, not yet.

Our Top Chef [Chicago Sun-Times]
TC Sightings [Eater]

NewsFeed 

6/ 9/08

9:00 AM

James Beard Awards Justify Excessive After-Parties

champagne

We're going to need every drop of that Champagne at Bar Boulud.Photo: Josh Ozersky

The James Beard Awards were good to New York last night, which always means one thing – great after-parties. To no one's surprise, David Chang won Outstanding Chef–New York, but our city conquered three of the major national awards too, with Gramercy Tavern taking Outstanding Restaurant; Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali named Outstanding Restaurateur; and Gavin Kaysen of Café Boulud deemed Rising Star Chef. (Hopes for a fourth were dashed when Anthos lost to D.C.'s Central Michel Richard for Best New Restaurant.) The glee was in the air at the gala afterward, but even more so at the three after-parties we attended: a jam-packed affair at Bar Boulud, home of the largest bottle of Champagne we've ever seen; an after-after-party at Eleven Madison Park with everyone from Thomas Keller to Tuscan party animal Cesare Casella; and an after-after-after-party at Gramercy Tavern, where the normally sedate staff poured cocktails like there was no tomorrow. Which, in a sense, there wasn't. That heavy medallion with the bald man was a pass to vindication and euphoria for the New York restaurant community, at least for a night.

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Mediavore 

6/ 6/08

10:00 AM

Boulud Makes the A-list; Blue Hill’s New Slaughterhouse

• Daniel Boulud won the Bravo A-list restaurant award for Bar Boulud, beating out Joey Campanaro’s little owl. [NYP]

• Horror of horrors! Lisa from Top Chef is putting her peanut-butter mashed potatoes on the menu at Mai House. [NYDN]

• Oh, fast-food restaurants don’t make people fat? Thanks for clearing that one up. [Odd Numbers/Portfolio]

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Mediavore 

6/ 2/08

10:00 AM

Tavern on the Green Pays Up; Pigfest Doesn't Run Out of Pig

• Federal officials are expected to announce today that Tavern on the Green will be forced to pay $2.2 million to employees who filed a discrimination lawsuit last September. [NYS]
Related: Tavern on the Green Hit With Federal Discrimination Charges

• On average, mothers of children under 15 spend more on fast food than on books, music, movies, and video games — combined. [NYT]

• The designer of the Pringles can was so proud of his design that he had part of his remains buried in one. [Cincinnati Enquirer]

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NewsFeed 

5/28/08

2:30 PM

Everything You Wanted to Know About the Bocuse d’Or Competition But Were Afraid to Ask

bocuse d'or

Image courtesy Bocuse d'Or

Fascinated by the news that Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud are heading up Team USA in the Bocuse d’Or contest, we reached out to Boulud HQ today to find out some details on how the contest works.

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NewsFeed 

5/28/08

9:05 AM

Thomas Keller Given Mission to Beat the World

Thomas Keller

Watch out, world! Thomas Keller's in charge!Photo: Wireimage

It's hard to believe, we know, but America has never won the Bocuse d'Or competition, the world's most prestigious cooking contest. Taking a cue from the 1992 Olympic basketball “dream team,” Thomas Keller is assembling a U.S. super-squad for the next Bocuse d'Or, Florence Fabricant reports in today's Times. Keller will be president of Team America, and Daniel Boulud the competition's honorary president. Together, the chefs will create a trial competition for eight teams to determine who will cook for the gold in France. “The goal is to make sure we’ll look good,” Boulud told the Times. “We have too many good restaurants not to be able to have a strong team.”

Tilting at the Bocuse d’Or [NYT]
Earlier: Documentary Captures the Ultimate Cooking Contest

Blueprint 

4/22/08

5:00 PM

Daniel Boulud Designs (and Describes) the Perfect Home Kitchen

Daniel Boulud was recently invited by Bilotta and Electrolux to create the perfect home kitchen, and the results are on display at the 36th Annual Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club Annual Decorator Show House, at 200 East 66th Street. While a lot of the elements (Japanese cutlery from Korin, Christofle flatware, emersion blender) aren’t in the picture, we asked the chef about the ones that are. Mouse over the pointers to read about them described in Daniel Boulud’s words.


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Mediavore 

4/ 9/08

10:00 AM

Calorie Law Doomed?; Colicchio Hasn't Been to Ko Either

• The very study that was used by the Health Department to crusade for mandatory calorie posting in food chains may now be used by defense lawyers to undermine the law’s future. [NYS]

• Some Lower East Siders are not stoked about Bruce Willis opening the Bowery Wine Company, so they’re going to buy a pig, name it Bruce, and then eat it. [NYP]

• Wine bars are everywhere, and, thankfully, they’re a lot less stuffy than they used to be. [NYT]

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VideoFeed 

4/ 4/08

9:00 AM

Inside ‘Food & Wine’s Best New Chef Gala

Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs party was crawling with notable toques last night, including Tom Colicchio, Daniel Boulud, Top Chef's Hung Huynh, and many more. Our cameras were there to chat with all of them, including New York’s only contribution to Food & Wine’s list, Michael Psilakis. Watch the video for all the foodie glam.

Mediavore 

4/ 2/08

10:00 AM

Burger King Is Recessionproof; UWS Gets Food Festival

• Burger King CEO John Chidsey explains how the fast-food industry benefits from economic squeezes: “It’s very hard for me to imagine that the economy could ever get so bad that somebody could not afford to go buy a Double Cheeseburger from McDonald’s or a Whopper Jr. from us for $1.” [WSJ]

• Some food experts and wishful thinkers argue that rising meat and corn prices will cause Americans to consume fewer nutritionally questionable products and instead focus on local fruits and vegetables. [NYT]

• On May 31, for $100, you’ll have a chance to taste all the gems of the Upper West Side at the aptly named "New Taste of the Upper West Side." [NYP]

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Mediavore 

3/31/08

10:00 AM

Shake Shack Serves Top Dog; Burger King to Open Whopper Bars

• It may not be as great as Chicago’s Wiener’s Circle, but Shake Shack serves up the best hot dog in these parts. [WSJ]

• Michael Psilakis estimates that the new Kefi on Columbus Avenue will open in August and focus more on healthy eating. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

• Jeffrey Chodorow might be opening a restaurant in the Dominican Republic. Maybe the critics will be kinder to him there. [NYP]

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Chefwatch 

3/26/08

5:40 PM

Jim Leiken Is the Next Star From Boulud's Chef Stable

jim leiken

"Imagine you’re a soft-shell crab. How would you want to be cooked?"Photo: Melissa Hom

Name: Jim Leiken

Age: 33

Restaurant: DB Bistro Moderne

Background: A local product (he grew up in Scarsdale), Leiken worked with Mike Anthony at March, and later opened Tabla’s Bread Bar as head cook. Another spell at March under Wayne Nish led to three years at Daniel, where he worked every station in what amounted to a fine-dining graduate program. He's currently executive sous chef (the equivalent to chef de cuisine) at DB Bistro Moderne.

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Mediavore 

3/26/08

10:00 AM

Chefs Disappoint Their Parents; Cooking With 99 Cent–Store Food

• The parents of today’s notable chefs weren’t all so happy when they found out their young ones’ career plans. Kolly Mehta, whose son, Jehangir, mans the kitchen at Graffiti, recalls, "I had mixed emotions, because we had cooks and servants in the house, and where we are from it’s not recognized as such an outstanding job." [TONY]

• Seamus Mullen doesn't want to hear a lot of that damn rock and roll in the kitchen. [NYT]

• Starbucks has purchased the Coffee Equipment Company of Seattle, maker of the $11,000 Clover coffee maker, and coffee snobs are already revolting: “In protest, Stumptown Coffee in Portland, Ore., one of Clover’s earliest champions, said it had decided to stop using Clover machines.” [NYT]

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User's Guide 

3/26/08

9:00 AM

Excerpt: ‘The Hamburger: A History’

the hamburger: a history
Josh Ozersky’s The Hamburger: A History will be released on April 28, but Grub Street readers don’t have to wait so long. The book details the rise of the burger from a grim beef sausage to a cultural icon, and the following excerpt describes its ascendency in the new millennium, after years of critique from environmentalists and anti-establishment thinkers. But, more importantly, it presents a culinary justification for Harold & Kumar Go to White Castle. College stoners, this term paper’s for you.

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NewsFeed 

3/20/08

12:25 PM

Daniel’s Dominique Ansel Lays the City’s Biggest Easter Egg

dominque ansel

Don't even ask about the creamy center.Photo: Barry Johnson

Yesterday, we presented some nice dessert porn, in the form of a gorgeous slideshow of the city’s top Easter treats. Today brings us an even more prurient image: the 80-pound, three-foot-high chocolate egg created by Dominique Ansel of Daniel to celebrate Easter. Sadly, the brown behemoth won’t be available for eating anytime soon. “You could eat it, though; it’s very good,” the chef says. “It’s all Valrhona chocolate. I just decided to make it one day. I told Daniel, ‘I have a small egg here.’ He saw it and said, ‘Oh, shit!’ He loves it.” The egg will be on display through next week in Daniel’s lobby.

Earlier: Slideshow: It's an Especially Edible Easter This Year

NewsFeed 

3/10/08

1:44 PM

Le Cirque Gets on the Wine-Bar Bandwagon

le cirque wine lounge

Just stop by Le Cirque and chill out. Really?Photo: Melissa Hom

As the fashion for haute cuisine falls away, the more casual wine bar has become a kind of economic savior for the city's classic high-end chefs — one reason, as we noted in our Fall Preview year, the likes of Daniel Boulud and Alain Ducasse have embraced the genre wholeheartedly. (It's easier to lure customers into wine bars, and wine is a much higher-profit item than food.) Now Le Cirque has gotten into the act, opening its new wine bar tonight. Says the restaurant’s legendary owner, Sirio Maccioni: “Our new wine lounge is a more casual side of Le Cirque, with chaise longues and where no jackets are required. We wanted to offer something, in our lounge, without all the rigueur of the dining room.” The centerpiece of the wine bar is an immense wine tower, with, according to Maccioni, “20,000 bottles of wine and the right menu to go with it.” Somehow it just doesn’t seem right to go to Le Cirque without a jacket, though — no matter how many bottles of wine they have.

Le Cirque wine-bar menu

Related: Grape Nuts [NYM]

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In the Magazine 

2/18/08

9:00 AM

Platt Disses Daniel, and Other Holiday Tales

Platt is ready to admit that the room is handsome, but…Photo courtesy Bar Boulud

Presidents’ Day is a holiday for Grub Street, but, thankfully, there’s enough in this week’s magazine to read till we return tomorrow. Daniel Boulud, whom Adam Platt respects as the Last Great French Chef, falls down in his new restaurant and gets only one star. In this week's "Openings," Rob and Robin introduce us to Olana (American with Italian influences) and marvel at Akhtar Nawab and Noel Cruz for putting a restaurant where Jimi Hendrix used to (reportedly) play. At Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Rob and Robin find the mind-bending “Frankensteak”: hanger steak that is literally glued to world-class rib-eye deckle. The Insatiable Critic falls for Fiore, a funky, rustic Italian place in Williamsburg; for those at risk of scurvy, pickled lemon is in "In Season" this week. But if you want a drink, you’ll find a guide to the city’s top boutique wineshops by the Gastropoda herself, Regina Schrambling.

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Mediavore 

2/12/08

10:00 AM

No Liquor Love for Momofuku Ko and Veselka Bowery; Boulud and Keller Hit Dubai

Momofuku Ko may be ready to open in a couple of weeks, but they’ll have to get by with serving only wine and beer, since David Chang’s rep neglected to bring the necessary petitions to the liquor-license hearing last night. [Eater]

Veselka Bowery was also denied a liquor license by Community Board 3 last night, but unlike Momofuku Ko, it doesn’t seem like they’ll ever be granted one, thanks to Daniel Boulud’s nearby liquored-up establishment. [Eater]
Related: Veselka II Is Coming — Let the Burger War Begin

Don’t be afraid to ask your waiter to put your leftovers in a doggie bag. After all, you did pay for that food. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

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Mediavore 

2/ 5/08

10:02 AM

Food Network to Publish Magazine?; Food-Porn Photos for Sale

Hearst Publications is supposedly in talks with the Food Network to publish a new food magazine and has been stealing editors from Every Day With Rachael Ray for months. The only problem? The channel’s big stars don’t seem to be a part of the publication. [Mixed Media/Portfolio]

Soto chef Sotohiro Kosugi responds to fears of too much mercury in tuna. “Eat with balance. Balance of meals is the key to a healthy life.” [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]
Related: Sushi Eaters Face Tuna Fears

Neil Ferguson, Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsey, Jamie Oliver, and others are leading a full-on British culinary invasion on our shores. [Chicago Tribune]

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Mediavore 

1/28/08

10:00 AM

Michael ‘Bao’ Huynh Out at Bun; A Le Cirque Documentary

Michael “Bao” Huynh has left his post at Bun, saying he couldn’t get along with his partner. Next up: a new noodle shop in Tribeca. [Insatiable Critic]

Burgerphilia: a new term about burger obsessives we won’t be using. [Time]
Related: Daniel Boulud’s Downtown Burger Place Finally Signs the Lease

A Table in Heaven, a documentary that looks at Le Cirque’s move from the Palace Hotel to the Bloomberg building, was screened at the Sundance Film Festival and promises to show Sirio Maccioni’s tendency to exceed the restaurant’s 2 percent cap on free meals. [NYDN]

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Trimmings 

1/ 4/08

5:54 PM

Will Bar Boulud's Tasting Table Be the New Oenophile Pickup Spot?

The perfect spot for a drunk game of duck, duck, goose.Photo: Melissa Hom

As Bar Boulud recovers from its private blowout last night and readies for its January 8 opening, they’ll be taking extra care to wipe down the fifteen-seat “tasting table in the round” — soon to be the site of many a “wine orgy,” if you believe the restaurant rep. Made of white oak (to give it that new-wine-barrel smell), the table is fourteen feet in diameter, built by Aveum of Mexico City, and designed by Thomas Schlesser. The table is modeled after eighteenth- and nineteenth-century negotiation negociant tables where businessmen served drinks to potential clients.

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Neighborhood Watch 

1/ 4/08

3:15 PM

Caviar and Vodka Warming Hearts in Midtown; Danal Not Down for Long in the East Village

Astoria: The guacamole at Luna de Juarez is prepared tableside. [Joey in Astoria]
Central Park: Someone may take over the Tavern on the Green someday, but they won't be calling it Tavern on the Green. That name belongs to owner Jennifer LeRoy. [Insatiable Critic]
East Village: From a tipster comment on yesterday’s nabe watch: Danal is reopening on January 10 in a new Fifth Avenue space just south of 13th Street. [Grub Street]
Lincoln Center: Bruni gives Rosa Mexicano thumbs up for its kid-friendly service and adult-friendly fare. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]
Lower East Side: Móle might make some of the tastiest tamales in town. [Gothamist]
Midtown East: Reservations are required for Gastronomica editor, Russian professor, and cookbook author Darra Goldstein’s sustainable-caviar and vodka tasting next Wednesday in the Williams Club at 24 East 39th Street. [Williams Club]
Nolita: Ceci-Cela on Spring Street will bake you a buttery galette des rois with only one day's notice … [Snack]
Tribeca: … while Ceci-Cela on Chambers has officially closed after rising rents compelled the bakery to give up its lease. [Grub Street]
Upper East Side: Rome expat Enrico Proietti (Baraonda, Per Lei, and Bella Blue) is opening a fourth Italian restaurant, which he’s named Ciaobella in commemoration of his first, long-closed, New York venture. [NYS]
Upper West Side: Not only does DB source great charcuterie for Bar Boulud, the chef also knows how to throw a party. [Eater]

NewsFeed 

12/31/07

8:01 PM

Bar Boulud Opens, and It’s No Mere Wine Bar

The charcuterie counter of your dreams. Photo: Jed Egan

We just returned from a first look at Bar Boulud, and our immediate reaction: dumbstruck awe. Here we thought the place was supposed to be a wine bar! In fact, it’s a full-scale restaurant with three private dining rooms, a huge kitchen, a separate charcuterie kitchen, and enough dried sausages and glistening terrines on display to get any gourmand hot and bothered. Even the design elements are special: The place is a wine shrine, with a vaulted ceiling (to suggest wine cellars), limestone floors (likewise), and white oak tables (an allusion to wine barrels). Along the walls is a series of framed photographs of wine stains made by Daniel Boulud and artist Vik Muniz. They look like red suns floating, Rothko-like, on their white backgrounds, and are slightly hypnotic. But so are the pork products!

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Back of the House 

12/21/07

5:32 PM

Ten Moments to Remember From 2007

Could this year have been any more ridiculous?Photo courtesy of Esquire

“Life fades … vision dims … and all that remains is memory.” Such are the haunting first words of The Road Warrior, and we can’t help but think of them as we look back, through heavy lids, at the year that was. And so we recall the most memorable food moments of 2007.

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