
Photo courtesy Karlitz and Company
New York Wine and Food Festival [Official Site]
Skip to content, or skip to search.
Skip to content, or skip to search.

Photo courtesy Karlitz and Company
New York Wine and Food Festival [Official Site]
So you’re a staid East Side burgher flush with the acquired riches of a lifetime who wants to step out for a meticulous banquet cooked by six great chefs to benefit a noble cause next Monday. Well, we have the event for you. Or let’s say you are a high-living bon vivant with a love of food and theater. We have another event, the same night. The first is Share Our Strength’s Tasteful Pursuit, at Artisanal. It starts with a Balvenie whisky reception, followed by six courses prepared by chefs including Terrance Brennan, David Burke, Jacques Torres, and Aaron Sanchez. The second, at the Metropolitan Pavilion, is Cabaret Gourmet, a gala honoring editor Judith Jones and featuring its own chef lineup, highlighted by Alex Guarnaschelli of Butter and Suvir Suran and Hemant Mathur of Devi, along with performances by Broadway actors, including Anthony Mackie, Myra Lucretia Taylor, and Penny Fuller. That event benefits the Play Company’s artistic programs. So which will you attend?
Tickets for the SOS event are $1,000 a head. Call Andrea Agalloco at 202-478-6528. Tickets for Cabaret Gourmet start at $99 and go up to $5,000 for VIP tables. For reservations and information, call Hilary Leichter at the Play Company at 212-398-2977.

Could this year have been any more ridiculous?Photo courtesy of Esquire

If they're not here, they don't matter!
Gordo scoffs at Frank Bruni for panning his restaurant after the Times critic called to “schmarm” him and ask about a dish since “if you don’t know what you’re criticising, then don’t write about it.” But the snappy chef still feels generous toward food critics: He’ll “do all the canapés at their funerals free of charge.” [Daily Star]
David Burke just acquired a cabaret license for Hawaiian Tropic Zone, though thankfully it won’t be Burke himself doing the dancing but rather professionals copying the Pussycat Dolls. [NYP]
Smart small businesses like Little Cupcake Bake Shop in Bay Ridge are leading the green front because they can “benefit from conservation efforts in two ways — by saving money on their monthly utility bills and by raising their profile in the community for much less money than they might spend on local advertising.” [NYT]
Carroll Gardens: New wine bar Black Mountain Wine House on Union Street is filled to the brim with lovely sipping ladies. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Flatiron: Diddy has closed Justin’s because it’s not big enough. [NYP] Stephen Hanson’s steakhouse, Primehouse, opens Monday. [Zagat]
Harlem: Fall registration is open for free proper-dining lessons at “New York City’s only tuition-free etiquette school for children,” the Development and Finishing Institute. [Uptown Flavor]
Soho: New Fiamma chef Fabio Trabocchi “brought with him 12 members of the staff of Maestro, in McLean, Va., his previous employer" in order to ease his New York transition. [NYT]
Upper East Side: David Burke's Hudson Valley Foie Gras ‘PB&J’ Tourchon is pushing it. [NYO]
Williamsburg: The best way to be sure your beef is prime is to eat at a top steakhouse, and lucky for you, according to “Amy Rubenstein, whose family owns Peter Luger, the shortage is over.” [NYP]

They just can’t get enough of David Burke.Photo: LAN/Retna

“I take a fun attitude.”Photo: Melissa Hom
The James Beard Awards after-parties presented special challenges which could only be solved by the liberal use of an open bar. The place to go was the Hawaiian Tropic Zone, whose bikini-clad waitresses and go-go dancers, serving at the behest of chef David Burke, provided a welcome dose of vulgarity after the high-class Beard gala. But the truly hot ticket was the Momofuku party bus, which, if David Chang & Co. were to be believed, was a chartered party vehicle where the most intense celebrating would be done. Regretfully, though, it was closed to press. “Sorry, dude,” David Chang told us, dazed and blissful and still unbelieving in the wake of his victory.
Zak Pelaccio and Top Chef’s Harold Dieterle open new restaurants. [NYT]
Related: Harold Dieterle’s Perilla to Open ... on Jones Street! [Grub Street]
And Jeffrey Chodorow’s new Malaysian restaurant, for which Pelaccio was consulting chef, opens in London. [This Is London]
Related: Has the Food Over There Really Become Edible? [NYM]
The rat expert who instructed the Department of Health says the city is a rodent’s paradise. [WP]

David Burke, pen at the ready.Photo: Getty Images

Kefi's four-star feta meze.Photo: Mark Peterson/Redux for New York Magazine
In case you’re wondering what we want for Christmas here on Grub Street, we’ve actually gone to the trouble of making a list.
• A Grub Street outpost in Las Vegas. Possibly built in conjunction with Hawaiian Tropic Zone, with David Burke as consulting chef.
• A James Beard Rising Star Chef award. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE!!!!
• A bar stool alongside Mario Batali and Courtney Love at the Spotted Pig. Then a hot ice pick with which to blind ourselves.
• A new restaurant which brags about “year-round” ingredients grown “all over the place, and bought from SysCo.”
• A menu that eschews subtitles, credits, translations, geography, or recipes in favor of big, detailed full-color pictures of every dish — just like at Denny’s.
• The permanent destruction of the Cookshack smoker, the last refuge of mediocre urban barbecue cooks. (The Cookshack, a refrigerator-size device that “smokes” with the aid of a handful of electrically warmed chips, is a sad replacement for a real wood smoker, like the ones used at RUB and other major barbecue establishments.)
• An end to “soft openings.” When you’re ready to open, open. Come hard or don’t come at all!
• Three good new Jewish delis, five good new non-gourmet pizzerias, ten good new local Chinese restaurants, and no more gourmet-burger operations.
• Unless, of course, it’s the White Castle on Avenue B we’ve always wished for.
The usual New Year's Eve drill, of course, is to get hammered at a party while noshing away at whatever happens to be put out. This year, why not preface the evening with a real meal, sending out the old with one last act of gluttony? In one of this week's Short Lists —
"Out With a Bang" — Rob and Robin suggest the most extravagant NYE dinner options. For those of us who have made resolutions to spend something less than $650 on holiday meals, there are some other possibilities more likely to fall within your credit limit.
Sales are slipping in restaurant chains everywhere, and not even because of E. coli. [Houston Chronicle]
Back from the dead: Child's restaurant, a booming New York cafeteria chain for most of the twentieth century, is reopening in Coney Island. [NYDN]
For the restaurateur who knows the staff is cheating him, but just can't quite prove it … [Craigslist]
Synergy at work: Glossy restaurant-branded lifestyle magazines for rich diners at posh restaurants. To no one's surprise, David Burke has a hand in this. [NYT]
Related: Hawaiian Tropic Zone's Tina Marino Probably Won't Be Sharing Her Life With You
Red Lobster and Olive Garden jump on the trans-fat banned-wagon [CNN]

David Burke, empire builder.
Davids Chang, Burke Now in Convenient Video Form [Grub Street]
The Go-Go Gourmet [Grub Street]

Chang, Burke work.Photos: Caroline Shepard
David Chang's shrimp spring rolls
David Burke's scrambled eggs with caviar and lobster

We love lamb … but oh, you kid!Photo: istockphoto.com/jtyler
Letters, we got letters ...
Dear Grub Street,
I just read your "review" of David Burke at the Hawaiian Tropic Zone … You the writer sound so uptight that you actually need to spend some time at a strip club. According to your article, the place is worse than Hooters. I am shocked at your lack of objectivity. The restaurant is actually a classy concept that mixes beautiful women with great food and drink. Give it a chance before you go for the jugular. I would like to think of New York Magazine as being fair. Not single-minded and judgmental based on your own insecurities! Loosen up!
Mark,
The item you're referring to wasn't a review, but in any case, you've got us all wrong. We LOVE the Hawaiian Tropic Zone precisely because it is such a crass idea. David Burke is a great chef, and there is no way the place can fail. Go for the jugular? We would invest in the Hawaiian Tropic Zone if we could!
Yours,
Grub Street

Buddakan's big boxPhotograph courtesy Buddakan
Regina Schrambling's long L.A. Times feature on New York big-box restaurants might be a must-read for observers of the New York dining scene. Although better known as her brilliantly arch and caustic blog Gastropoda, Schrambling is a rock-solid food reporter when not in harridan mode, and she helps get to the bottom of a basic question. How, in a city where even small spaces are astronomically expensive, can it pay to open a restaurant the size of a bus terminal? The answer is volume, but the how and why of the way restaurants like Morimoto, Buddakan, and the Hawaiian Tropic Zone operate might not be immediately apparent to readers who don't know a lot about the restaurant business.
From the clandestinely costly to the unabashedly so, the latest industry news is all about the Benjamins.
• Zagat opens the lid on hidden fees like Del Posto's "straight up" martini charge. [Zagat]
• Forbes runs down the country's priciest restaurants (Masa, of course, is No. 1). What they don't tell you is that the picks are apparently limited to one per city — or Per Se, Alain Ducasse, Gilt, Kuruma Zushi, and Daniel would've made the list. [Forbes]
• The Hallo Berlin cart raises its prices (Dictator Special now $9). [Midtown Lunch]
• The Met's Grand Tier Restaurant lets in the unwashed masses (well, Lincoln Center patrons, anyway). [NYS]
• David Burke: Vegas, baby, Vegas! [Nation's Restaurant News]

Guy's guy: David Burke (right), with friend.
What to expect from New York Magazine's food daily.
Most Commented
Daily Intel
Last 7 Days
Vulture
Last 7 Days
Grub Street
Last 7 Days
The Cut
Last 7 Days