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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘degustation’

Back of the House 

3/18/08

3:30 PM

‘Esquire’ Escalates Chef-Fashion War With ‘Maxim’

john macdonald and piero trotta

I say, old man! Where did you get that tie?Photo courtesy Esquire

Has it really come to this? Maxim and Esquire are going at it hammer and tongs to see who can print more ridiculous images of chefs as fashion models. Esquire started it, with a never-to-be-forgotten Simon Hammerstein–David Chang tough-guy shoot. This year, Maxim released its April spread early to get the jump on Esquire, but both mags shared a few models (formerly known as chefs): Michael Psilakis of Anthos, Neil Ferguson of Allen and Delancey, and Craig Koketsu of Park Avenue Winter. Psilakis, for his part, is even wearing similar suits in both spreads. (Did he leave the Maxim refrigerator and head straight to his Esquire lunch at Insieme?) Other chefs of note in the shoot include Ben Chekroun, the elegant maître d' of Le Bernardin, whom we interviewed for Ask a Waiter back in the day; San Domenico's affable wine director, Piero Trotta; and the boyish Wesley Genovart of Degustation, tucking into a plate of duck and soba noodles. We give Esquire the edge for shooting the dapper John McDonald at Keens. Though he’s more of a bon vivant restaurateur than a chef, Johnny Mac is a quintessential Esquire man.


Man’s Gotta Eat
[Esquire]
Related: Chefs Put on Something a Little More Comfortable
When Chefs Play Dress-Up

Neighborhood Watch 

12/ 4/07

3:30 PM

Bruni Hot for Small Baguettes on the Upper West Side

East Village: Anita Lo thinks Degustation isn’t getting enough attention. [Diner’s Journal/NYT] Bao 111 will now be closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. [Eater]
Hell’s Kitchen: Kyotofu will be holding a seven-course dinner plus dessert paired with "six different types of specialty and esoteric sake" at 7 p.m. on Monday, December 17. [Grub Street]
Richmond Hill: RIP 80-year-old Jahn’s Ice Cream. [Lost City]
Upper West Side: Frank Bruni reveals he’s "hot for" small baguettes with butter and raspberry jam from Levain Bakery: "I demolish it in four or five bites, squeezing it so tight the jam drips from the edges, and I sometimes have to change my shirt afterward because of the jam stains." [Refinery 29]

The In-box 

10/ 2/07

1:51 PM

Eric Ripert to Feed Reader Who May Lose Sense of Taste

In a bad spot? The Ripper will step into the breach.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Dear Grub Street,
Next weekend I’m getting surgery done on an impacted wisdom tooth which is growing very close to a central nerve. I’ve been told that if this nerve is damaged, there’s a chance I will lose a large part of feeling in my face – including a loss of my sense of taste. I’ve gone into “doomsday mode”, thinking of all the best flavors this city has to offer in an effort to get them ingrained into my gray memory. As of now I’ve got a reservation at Degustation, will be making at least three visits minimum to Ssäm Bar, and another to Sasabune. Are there maybe two or three dishes or places that should be added to this ever-growing list? Le Bernardin is in my sights of course, but understandably may be difficult to get into.
Signed,
Facing My Final Hour

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Two for Eight 

6/19/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Falai and Sumile Sushi; Asiate Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Rising-star chefs.

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The Underground Gourmet 

4/23/07

1:00 PM

Sandwich of the Week: One Cheesesteak on Quotation Marks, Coming Up

Hold on, where's the Cheez Whiz?Photo: Melissa Hom

The Underground Gourmet is not from Philadelphia, but if he were, according to a native Philly friend, his natural response upon being presented with Degustation’s new “cheesesteak” sandwich would be to either sue the chef for false advertising or wait for him outside the restaurant with a horsewhip. Of course, Philadelphians are born with Cheez Whiz running through their veins and that tends to cloud their judgment on such matters.

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Two for Eight 

3/20/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Asiate and Ureña; Little Owl Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Restaurants with rising stars in the kitchen.

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Two for Eight 

3/ 9/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at European Union; August and Public Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Rising stars.

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Two for Eight 

3/ 1/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Gilt and Sumile Sushi; Little Owl Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Rising Stars.

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Two for Eight 

1/17/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Danube and 5 Ninth; Gilt Totally Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Romantic.

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Two for Eight 

12/18/06

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Barça 18 and Ureña; No Answer at Azafrán and Xunta

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: the Iberian Peninsula.

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Two for Eight 

12/ 1/06

4:00 PM

Tables Open at One if By Land, Two If by Sea; River Café Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Romantic.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

11/22/06

3:25 PM

Special Thanksgiving-Eve Edition: Tables Available for Small Plates

It's the night before Thanksgiving. You don't want to cook, but you don't want an oversize meal weighing you down, either. The solution? Small plates. Welcome to this special edition of Two for Eight: We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.)

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Two for Eight 

11/ 9/06

4:00 PM

Tables Open at Degustation and River Café ; La Grenouille and Mas (farmhouse) Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Romantic.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

10/24/06

4:00 PM

Tables Open at the River Café and One If By Land; Annisa and Mas Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Romantic.

Read more»

 

 

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