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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘esquire’

NewsFeed 

5/29/08

12:35 PM

David Chang Named Most Influential, Pounds PBR

As if it wasn't enough to immortalize David Chang in a photo portrait, Esquire has now made him video-art fodder. The magazine has commissioned new-media artist Lincoln Schatz to compose trippy clips of the “most influential people of the 21st century,” and (following in the footsteps of George Clooney, Santiago Calatrava, and Marc Jacobs) the latest to spend an hour chilling in Shatz’s Cube (a ten-foot-by-ten-foot translucent box rigged with 24 cameras) is none other than the Changster — “the most celebrated young cook in America” — along with four members of his crew. Due to extreme artsy-ness, we can’t make much out other than the fact that they’re annihilating a carton of Pabst Blue Ribbon that ends up on someone’s head— if this is a portrait of the 21st century, help us all.

Enter the Cube: David Chang [Esquire]

NewsFeed 

5/22/08

9:43 AM

‘Best Bars in America’ Is Back in ‘Esquire,’ and a Little Baffling

pegu club

Pegu is one of the great bars. But Grassroots Tavern?Photo: Melissa Hom

Esquire has released the latest installment of its annual "Best Bars in America" list, and the New York selections have us totally baffled. At least on the Website, the meaning of the ratings isn't clear, nor can we figure out why some bars get a full write-up and others a single sentence. Certainly the national bar map is cool, and possibly even worthy of an On the Road–style pilgrimage. But how, we wonder, could generic watering holes like the Saloon and Grassroots Tavern make it onto a list that is, rightfully, largely composed of one-of-a-kind drink meccas like Pegu, Little Branch, Bemelmans Bar? And while we love the bar at San Domenico, and would rather have a Prosecco there than practically anywhere, it's relatively small and part of a formal restaurant. It's also a favorite gathering place of Esquire editors. We're also glad to see that Minetta Tavern made it in for its last year of existence, like an elderly actor who wins an honorary Oscar before passing away. (Of course, since there's no mention of the place closing, it's probably more oversight than elegy.) And Bill's Gay Nineties is still the best piano bar anywhere in the world. If you're traveling and want a drink, Esquire can tell you where to go.

The Best Bars in America [Esquire]

Back of the House 

3/18/08

3:30 PM

‘Esquire’ Escalates Chef-Fashion War With ‘Maxim’

john macdonald and piero trotta

I say, old man! Where did you get that tie?Photo courtesy Esquire

Has it really come to this? Maxim and Esquire are going at it hammer and tongs to see who can print more ridiculous images of chefs as fashion models. Esquire started it, with a never-to-be-forgotten Simon Hammerstein–David Chang tough-guy shoot. This year, Maxim released its April spread early to get the jump on Esquire, but both mags shared a few models (formerly known as chefs): Michael Psilakis of Anthos, Neil Ferguson of Allen and Delancey, and Craig Koketsu of Park Avenue Winter. Psilakis, for his part, is even wearing similar suits in both spreads. (Did he leave the Maxim refrigerator and head straight to his Esquire lunch at Insieme?) Other chefs of note in the shoot include Ben Chekroun, the elegant maître d' of Le Bernardin, whom we interviewed for Ask a Waiter back in the day; San Domenico's affable wine director, Piero Trotta; and the boyish Wesley Genovart of Degustation, tucking into a plate of duck and soba noodles. We give Esquire the edge for shooting the dapper John McDonald at Keens. Though he’s more of a bon vivant restaurateur than a chef, Johnny Mac is a quintessential Esquire man.


Man’s Gotta Eat
[Esquire]
Related: Chefs Put on Something a Little More Comfortable
When Chefs Play Dress-Up

In Other Magazines 

2/25/08

3:30 PM

‘Details’ Announces the Nation’s Top Breakfasts

Breakfast

Part of a complete breakfast.Photo: iStockphoto.com

Fresh off the heels of Esquire’s Best Sandwiches in America comes Detail’s Best Breakfasts in America. We’re beginning to think that these features are a little played out. Since Alan Richman’s “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die” spread in GQ last year, it seems every major man mag is looking to create its own Saveur 100, gathering up the most picturesque greasy spoons west of the Pecos. But who is going to get to all these places, anyway? And since they tend to be written by committee, why should we believe that they are good? They are fun to read, we’ll admit. And we don’t squawk at their only giving New York two picks (Barney Greengrass and Mei Lai Wah Coffee House). New York is a horrible breakfast town, where you can’t even get buttered toast, much less good shredded hash browns or scrapple.

Breakfast in America [Details]
Related: Esquire Sandwich Survey Is Spot-on

The In-box 

10/16/07

3:06 PM

‘Esquire’ Responds: We Do So Love New York

Esquire
Esquire's John Mariani, responding to our outraged post from earlier today, writes in with some cooling remarks. We present them here unedited, leaving it to Grub Street readers to decide who's in the right.
Your comments on my list of Esquire's 20 Best New Restaurants 2007 are fair enough insofar as your own preferences not making the list, though the inclusion of three NYC restaurants on a list of 20 (no other city has as many) hardly justifies your "Drop Dead" headline. And your assertion that "Food columnist John Mariani picks good restaurants located outside New York in place of the more deserving restaurants inside the city limits, such as Insieme, Sfoglia, Ssäm Bar, Suba, Hill Country, and many others. It's not their fault that New York has more good places than the rest of the country put together!" may be churlish chauvinism but would only really be defensible if, as I did, you had in fact, eaten in more than 25 cities in the USA in the past year and dined at more than 80 restaurants in those cities...

Read more»

In Other Magazines 

10/16/07

9:30 AM

‘Esquire’ to New York: Drop Dead

Dennis Foy

Esquire paints Dennis Foy as top twenty in the nation.Photo: Courtesy Dennis Foy

Are you kidding us? Only a trio of New York spots made Esquire’s “best new restaurants” list. And while the places described all sound good, if the likes of Rialto in Cambridge have all but three New York restaurants beat, then Pace is the new Harvard. The fact is this list represents a kind of trans-Hudson affirmative action for the restaurant world. Food columnist John Mariani picks good restaurants located outside New York in place of the more deserving restaurants inside the city limits, such as Insieme, Sfoglia, Ssäm Bar, Suba, Hill Country, and many others. It’s not their fault that New York has more good places than the rest of the country put together!

Read more»

NewsFeed 

8/13/07

2:00 PM

When Chefs Play Dress-up

All the young dudes…Photo: Courtesy of Esquire

The September issue of Esquire is the gift that keeps on giving: Last week it introduced us to the foppish Thomas Crowley of Bar Veloce and his hilarious MySpace page; today it brings us “Angry Young Men,” a “new generation of mavericks” selected to wear $1,500 suits and glower for the camera. Two of our favorite mavericks made the cut: nightlife impresario Simon Hammerstein, looking tough with a burned-down cig and a stripy fall suit, and culinary “It” boy David Chang, mad as hell in classic houndstooth. We can see how running the Box would wear a guy out, but what got in D.C.’s craw? He looks like somebody just told him he had to use Boar’s Head bacon at Ssäm Bar. That said, he does look sharp.

Related: Bar Veloce GM Moonlights as Raffish Fop
What’s in the Box? [NYM]

NewsFeed 

8/10/07

12:44 PM

Bar Veloce GM Moonlights As Raffish Fop

Did you make the sangria yet? Yes? Good.Photo courtesy Esquire

We never know what to think when we see the “Best Dressed Real Men in America ” in the pages of Esquire . Are they freakish dandies, movie-set extras posturing for imaginary cameras, or are we just shlubby? The answer might be the former, going by Bar Veloce manager Thomas Crowley, who appears in the current issue. So who is he, really? A visit to Crowley's MySpace page reveals a veritable shrine to preening dorkery.

Read more»

 

 

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