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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘foie gras’

Mediavore 

5/20/08

10:00 AM

The $175 Kobe Burger; Black Truffles in Trouble

• In the latest development in ridiculously priced food, Wall Street Burger Shoppe has introduced a $175 Kobe burger that comes topped with — what else? — truffles, foie gras, and gold. [NYDN]

• The U.S. Agriculture Department raised its food-inflation forecast for the third consecutive month; if the figure rises again next month, it could match inflation in 1990. [WSJ]

Ilili’s chef-owner, Philippe Massoud, may listen to disco when the mood is right, but he doesn’t allow any music to be played in the kitchen of his restaurant. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/14/08

4:44 PM

Foie Gras Ban Repealed; D’Artagnan Founder in Rapture

News that Chicago had overturned the city’s foie gras ban, posted this afternoon on the Times’ Diner’s Journal blog, didn’t take long to reach Ariane Daguin, the founder of D’Artagnan and the nation’s leading proponent of foie gras consumption. Her letter, unabridged, after the jump.

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NewsFeed 

4/18/08

9:30 AM

Ethically Raised Geese Make for Dan Barber's Fave Foie Gras

Foie Gras

These geese are flying to Extremadura.Photo: Getty Images

Foodies bent on trekking to El Bulli can now add another stop to their Spanish pilgrimage: Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns tells Lancaster Farming that the best foie gras he’s ever tasted (indeed, “the best culinary experience of my life”) comes from a revolutionary Extremadura farm that, rather than force-feeding its 1,000 geese, lets them naturally gorge on nuts, grass, acorns, olives, and figs. So will the superior foie gras be available here in the same way that Ibérico ham was recently legalized? Eh, no. Eduardo Sousa, the goose farmer, says, “Chefs don’t deserve it” because they’d take credit for it. Little does he know how fetishized food sources have become round these parts.

Intrepid Chef Investigates ‘Ethical Foie Gras’ [Lancaster Farming via Michael Ruhlman]

Mediavore 

3/13/08

10:00 AM

Ilan Hall to Open Tapas Truck in L.A.; Chefs Keep on Blogging

Top Chef champ Ilan Hall’s rumored L.A project is now a restaurant truck that serves tapas and has a foldout bar. [MSNBC]
Related: For Ilan Hall, a Taco Shack of One’s Own

The president of Westland/Hallmark Meat Co., the California beef company responsible for the largest meat recall in American history, acknowledged yesterday the illegal slaughter of sick cows at his plant after a congressional panel forced him to watch the undercover video depicting the abuse. [WSJ]

Chefs’ blogs keep getting better and better, and there are increasingly more and more of them. At what point are they all just going to leave the kitchen and become full-time bloggers? [LAT]

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NewsFeed 

2/20/08

9:15 AM

What Can’t Pichet Ong Do With Foie Gras?

It's foie gras … it's a taco … it's a foie gras taco.Photo: Erin Gleeson

We checked in with dessertologist Pichet Ong recently and found him inordinately pleased with one of his newest creations: a foie gras Chantilly “taco,” created for the Valentine's Day tasting menu and now served every day at P*ONG. The shell is made of chocolate and hazelnut, the filling foie gras Chantilly, with a little bit of red-chile jam for heat. “It has that creamy, melt-in-your-mouth feel that people want from foie gras, with the crunch from the taco. Everyone loves it.” So says Ong. And there’s more foie in the future!

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NewsFeed 

2/ 4/08

4:35 PM

Duck Liver = Romance at Valentine’s Day Foie Gras Dinner

"Lover" and "liver" are only a letter apart.Photo courtesy D'Artagnan

If you’re anything like us, nothing says “romance” like ingesting eight courses of duck liver. And so there’s probably nowhere you and your Special Friend would rather be than at the D’Artagnan foie gras dinner being held at the Astor Center on Valentine’s Day. PETA public enemy Ariane Daguin, the founder of D’Artagnan and the nation’s most conspicuous pro–foie gras activist, has put together a dinner of foie gras accompanied with different vintages of Chateau Y’quem, the Sauterne wine prescribed by tradition to accompany foie gras everywhere. The dinner will start out with foie gras canapés, followed by foie gras terrine, pan-seared foie with port reduction, then foie-stuffed quail with black truffle shavings and a grape-and-black-truffle sauce, followed by – what else? — foie gras beignets. What libido could be unmoved by such a feast? And isn’t that worth $1,300 a couple? We think the question answers itself.

Perfect Pairings: D'Artagnan Foie Gras & Chateau d'Yquem - A Dinner
with Ariane Daguin
[Astor Center]

Back of the House 

12/13/07

2:40 PM

Bourdain’s Duck Farm Was No Potemkin Village

Seconds later, this duck attacked.Photo: iStockphoto.com/Chris Beddoe

There’s been some buzz the last few days about Anthony Bourdain's Holiday Special, a likable, perverse piece of holiday programming recently on the Discovery Channel. (It's like A Charlie Brown Christmas, except with foie gras, instead of a spindly tree.) The highlight of the show is Bourdain’s visit to a Hudson Valley foie gras farm, where he finds that ducks really don’t mind being force-fed and that foie gras is (surprise, surprise) all right to eat after all. Having visited the same farm ourselves, we can testify that the birds don’t seem to mind a periodic forced-stuffing; their long throats are built to handle whole spiny fishes, so a smooth tube going in for three seconds doesn’t bother them any more than a drunken handful of tater tots would you or me.

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Mediavore 

12/12/07

10:09 AM

Win a Date With Thomas Keller; Year-end Lists Abound

Mix up your holiday charitable giving by entering a raffle for a coffee date with Per Se’s Thomas Keller or Ferran Adrià of Spain’s El Bulli. [NYT]
Related: Ferran Adrià, Molecular Gastronomist—Who, Me? [NYM]

On his No Reservations holiday special, Anthony Bourdain spoke with a veterinarian who explained that foie gras production is not the demonic act it has been portrayed as by animal-rights groups, so eat up! [Eat for Victory/VV]

If Amy Sacco didn’t convince you of the growing synergy between restaurants and real estate, consider that Centovini has just struck a deal with luxe condo Soho Mews that offers not only delivery to the building but also the option to have executive chef Patti Jackson provide in-home cooking. [NYP]

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Mediavore 

11/ 2/07

10:00 AM

New Momofuku(s) Opening Next Week; Meryl Streep to Play Julia Child

Momofuku Noodle Bar 2.0 is set to open Tuesday, which by David Chang’s accounts should mean Ko will be raised in one night and ready by Wednesday in the original’s former space. [Eater]
Related: Keeping Up With the Momofukus

Food & Wine questions whether Meryl Streep can carry the role of their “Patron Saint” Julia Child, though they have hope from a scene in The Hours in which the actress “deftly separated egg whites from egg yolks by letting the whites run through her fingers.” [Mouthing Off/Food&Wine]

Hudson Valley is the largest foie gras producer in the country so even though 15,000 breeding ducks were killed in a fire this week, it “shouldn’t seriously affect production,” says Frank Bruni. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

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The Annotated Dish 

7/26/07

5:00 PM

Falai’s Left-Field Trio of Foie Gras Treats

Iacopo Falai impressed a lot of experienced eaters when he opened Falai, his small, eponymous restaurant on the Lower East Side, catching them off-guard with his very modern take on Italian food. This foie gras appetizer, rare enough on Italian menus, comes from out of left field. “There are more contrasting flavors and textures in this dish than any foie gras dish on the planet,” Falai boasts. “Start with the croquette and go clockwise. It’s warm and should be eaten right away. The chocolate I’d like to be last, because it gives a strong, savory end to the dish. There’s so much interaction here for the customer to discover.” As always, mouse over the different elements to read them described in Falai’s own words.

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Mediavore 

6/25/07

10:11 AM

Merkat Busts Out Its Own Secret Room; Red Hook Vendors Safe Through Fall

Merkat has its own secret, PDT-style back room, Merkat Negre, with a chalkboard menu and a “young, pleasantly noisy crowd.” [Restaurant Girl]

A typical weekend for a Red Hook soccer-fields vendor involves endless prep work, setting up by 7:30 a.m., cooking all day, and breaking the stand down at night … [NYT]

But the vendors' rituals are safe until October 28, thanks to the intercession of Senator Chuck Schumer. [Serious Eats]

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What to Eat Tonight 

5/17/07

2:08 PM

Tocqueville’s Foie Gras Special Really Isn’t About Seasonal Vegetables.

Isn't something this good worth a little force-feeding?Photo courtesy Tocqueville

The evils of foie gras production are old news, but somehow, the stuff keeps finding its way to our tables. Possibly because it’s so freaking good. David Coleman, chef de cuisine at Tocqueville, is featuring the controversial delicacy on his menu tonight, simply seared and served with apricots glazed with sherry caramel, alongside ramps and chocolate-mint purée. “The dish is inspired by the first spring ingredients finally available — ramps from the Greenmarket and also the first apricots from California, which have a short season from May to July.” Sure, David. The dish is inspired by spring produce, not the voluptuously buttery, sweet taste of what gastronomes like Charles Gerard have called “the supreme fruit of gastronomy.” We don’t believe you, but we will happily eat it anyway.

Mediavore 

4/27/07

10:00 AM

Alain Ducasse Hates Molecular Gastronomy; BLT Market Pushed Back to August

Alain Ducasse speaks out on his restaurants, his rivalry with Joël Robuchon, and the challenge of running a global empire. But his most pointed remarks are about molecular gastronomy: “I prefer to be able to identify what I’m eating.” [Bloomberg]

BLT Market, Laurent Tourondel’s entry into the Haute Barnyard sweepstakes, has been pushed back to August. [RG]

“Hipster chef” Sam Mason’s new Internet TV show gets love in the Daily News, which swooningly describes him as “witty, goateed and extremely good-looking.” But you already knew that. [NYDN]
Related: The Launch

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Mediavore 

4/26/07

9:41 AM

Tom Carvel’s Mysterious Death; Tom Valenti’s Awesome Uptown Digs

The old technique of force-feeding geese with a metal tube was the evil secret behind foie gras. Now there’s a new, gentler method: force-feeding them with a rubber tube. [NYT]

Tom Carvel’s niece is convinced that her uncle, the late custard king, was murdered, and she wants his body exhumed. [The Journal News]

Ouest chef Tom Valenti shows his museumlike 157th Street apartment to the world. [NYP]

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Mediavore 

3/20/07

10:03 AM

De Marco’s May Close Forever; Let Them Make Foie Gras!

The Department of Health rampage claims its most eminent victim yet: the venerable Brasserie LCB (formerly known as La Cote Basque). Apparently chef Jean-Jacques Rachou had a few things to say to the inspectors when they arrived. [NYP]

According to the owner’s father, DiFara legend Dom De Marco, De Marco’s Pizza may close permanently in the wake of the recent shooting. [NYP]

A more palatable way of making foie gras: Let the geese gorge themselves. [BBC via Chow]

Read more»

In the Magazine 

2/ 5/07

9:59 AM

Kobe Club Gets the Bagel, and Foie Gras Foes' Last Stand

This week's issue of New York is crammed with food news, including an Adam Platt slam, a Gael Greene discovery, and the latest dispatch from the foie gras wars.

• Foie gras foes, including Russell Simmons, are planning a series of protests at Fairway, which they've deemed "foie gras central." [Intelligencer]

• Adam Platt hands Jeffrey Chodorow's new Kobe Club a bagel, faulting the restaurant as “less like a steakhouse than a bizarre agglomeration of restaurant fashions and trends, most of them bad.” And that was one of the nicer things he had to say. [Food]

Read more»

Back of the House 

1/16/07

9:56 AM

Startling Results of a Franco-American Summit; Queens Restaurant's Mob Ties

French journalists and top N.Y. chefs and food personalities meet at Franco-American gastronomy summit. The consensus? The world needs fewer haute restaurants, more steakhouses, and to go to war to protect foie gras. [Bloomberg]
Related: Le Binge, Gael Greene's account of her French eat-a-thon. [NYM]

The city contracted with the nephew of a former acting Gambino boss to run Caffe on the Green, Bayside’s answer to Tavern on the Green. This on the heels of the news that the Colombo family and the Russian mob together operate a golf course in Brooklyn. [NYP]

There are apparently a number of people who are enthusiastic about food and travel around constantly sampling it. Among these are Jane and Michael Stern, Chowhound's Jim Leff, and a guy who works for a management and technology consulting firm. Who knew? [NYT]

Chow provides a sorely needed molecular-gastronomy cheat sheet, which not only explains
spherification but even tells you how to pronounce the names of the movement’s major
exponents. [Chow]

A relatively inexpensive cooking school established in Westchester, boasting a 100 percent placement rate. Now about those wages … [7online]

The question of what constitutes “true Japanese” food to be settled once and for all, when the Japanese External Trade Organization begins certifying restaurants. [Mainichi Daily News]

The Annotated Dish 

12/19/06

4:50 PM

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon's Eel–and–Foie Gras Terrine

"You got your eel in my foie gras!"Photo courtesy L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Welcome again to the Annotated Dish, where the creator of a buzzed-about New York entrée walks you through its essential components. (Simply scroll over the arrows on the image to get quotes from the chef.) This week L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon executive chef Yosuke Suga describes a dish that we’ve been hearing about since the restaurant opened, a compact fusion of sea and land, France and Japan, sweet and savory: Le foie gras fumé en duo d’anguille caramélisée aux saveurs orientales — smoked foie gras layered with caramelized eel ($29 on the tasting menu).

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Back of the House 

9/29/06

10:00 AM

Chefs Tortured by Possible Foie Gras Ban; De Niro Versus Trans Fat

• In New Jersey, where a big distributor of foie gras is based, a legislator proposes banning the delicacy. Anthony Bourdain ain't gonna take it: "It's like beating up on Julia Child." [AP]

• "Some day a real rain will come and wash all the trans fats off the streets"? Bloomberg attempts to rope Robert De Niro into the debate. [Newsday]

• Alain Ducasse moves to the former Lespinasse space in the St. Regis hotel and plans decanters modeled after Louis Vuitton trunks. [NYT]

• Ruth Reichl: Coming to a multiplex near you. [NYP]

• The new face of caviar: scannable sturgeons and fish biopsies. [NYT]

• Starbucks rips off the Egg McMuffin. [Dow Jones]

• Greenpoint's Café Grumpy rents its back room out to hipstervangelists. [NYDN]

Del Posto, Craftsteak, and Buddakan called out as the principal hells of the meatpacking district: "The assholes are eating assholes. The cocks are eating coxcombs." [Gawker]

 

 

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