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All Posts Tagged: ‘gourmet’

Chumley's Reopening Behind Schedule; Ruth Reichl's Mommy Disguise

• It would take a miracle for Chumley’s to reopen this month as originally planned. [Lost City]

• Health Department inspectors have started handing out citations to chain restaurants that have yet to post their calorie info on menus, but fines won’t be issued until July. [NYP]

• Lee Schrager has inked a deal to release a cookbook in 2011 to coincide with the 10th anniversary of the South Beach Wine & Food Festival. [NYP]

More: Mediavore »calorie posting, chumley's, gourmet, health department, lee schraeger, ruth reichl, south beach wine and food festival

What the Candidates Will Be Drinking in Kentucky; Judge to Make the Call on Union Square Plans Today

• A primer to the bourbons the presidential candidates will have to drink to impress voters in Kentucky. [WSJ]

• Mars Inc. is buying Wrigley; will Orbit gum now come with an M&M candy shell? [WSJ]

• A judge will decide today whether construction on the north end of Union Square, including the creation of a proposed new restaurant, can continue. [NYS]

More: Mediavore »bourbon, bowery, gourmet, pizza, recession, robert sietsema, union square

Ruth Reichl and Padma Lakshmi Are Not Long-Lost Sisters

ruth reichl, wolfgang puck, padma lakshmi

Ruth Reichl and Padma Lakshmi make a Wolfgang Puck sandwich at yesterday's event.Getty Images

At the Women in Communication Matrix Awards last night, Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl and Top Chef goddess Padma Lakshmi both spoke of their mothers. But, as Women’s Wear Daily points out, their mothers should perhaps not get together for coffee. Reichl told the audience that she wakes up every morning happy not to be her mother or even “any of the women of her generation.” Strong stuff! The easygoing Padma, meanwhile, told the crowd at the same event that, for her part, she’s living her mother’s dream: “I sit on my ass, I eat, and talk.” There are a lot of mothers and a lot of dreams out there.

Memo Pad [WWD]

More: NewsFeed »gourmet, padma lakshmi, ruth reichl, top chef

Back of the House

3/ 4/08

2:21 PM

Ruth Reichl Pens First of Many Love Notes to Momofuku Ko

David Chang is poised for even greater glory.Photo: Patrick McMullan

It didn’t take long for the Momofuku Ko bandwagon to start rolling, did it? Ruth Reichl has filed a panegyric to her dinner there on the Gourmet Website, and it’s only a matter of time until her fellow food-media elders do likewise. Every other chef can only sit back and watch: Chang has become the official sanctioned face of the gastronomic Now, even though he’s not really even the primary chef at Ko, as he is always the first to admit. (The names of co-chefs Tien Ho and Joaquin Baca don't even appear in the post.) Chang comes off as some kind of combination of Escoffier and the Dalai Lama in this review: Reichl writes of eating “the richest, silkiest short rib you have ever tasted,” “translucent petals of silky fluke folded into a soft pink puddle of buttermilk and Sriracha,” and “drum roll please — a bowl of lychees topped with grated frozen foie gras is set before you. It reconstitutes in your mouth in the most amazing way as you take one bite, then another, fascinated by these textures.” (Ew!) Batten down the hatches and prepare to get a little cynical: A veritable onslaught of acclamation is coming your way. Odds are you'll be very weary of reading them — and very desirous of getting a Momofuku Ko reservation, probably in about the same proportion.

First Taste: Momofuku Ko [Gourmet]

More: Back of the House »david chang, gourmet, joaquin baca, momofuku ko, ruth reichl, tien ho

In Other Magazines

1/ 2/08

5:15 PM

Food Writers Dwell Happily in the Past This Month

The best stories in this month’s crop of food mags are old. Saveur, which leads the year off with the Saveur 100, runs highlights from the WPA’s unpublished 1937 opus, America Eats, a documentary record of American foodways that is only now seeing the light of day; the images excerpted here are evocative and beautiful and make us eager to see the America Eats book to be published (finally) later this year. Gourmet is devoted to southern cooking, with a wonderful, previously unpublished “What Is Southern?” leadoff essay by the late Edna Lewis, formerly of Café Nicholson. Bon Appétit goes with a “Green Issue” with a long piece by Blue Hill’s Dan Barber on vegetables, an ecofriendly meat guide by sausage guru Bruce Aidells, and a moving essay on a vegetarian who returns to the meat wagon because of sausages. Food & Wine is something of a bore, consisting mostly of lists of “Tastes to Try in 2008,” most of which were short on detail and long on obviousness. (Fiamma has a new chef!) Finally, Food Arts, which won’t come out till later this week, has a major service feature on beef, along with an essay by French Culinary Institute techno whiz Dave Arnold on hydrocolloids, a class of gelatins big in molecular-gastronomy circles.

More: In Other Magazines »bon appetit, food & wine, food arts, gourmet, saveur

In Other Magazines

12/ 3/07

2:20 PM

The Literary Yule Log Burns Away

Wait till you see the centerfold.Image courtesy Saveur

The food magazines are all in full-tilt holiday mode this month, but there’s some interesting stuff in there in spite of all the boilerplate. Saveur leads out with a massive roasting package, but the mag also includes an equally useful (if not equally pornographic) service feature on Champagne. There’s also a nice personal essay by Dana Bowen about electric slicers as a totem of holiday feats past. Food & Wine is a big old mess of Yuletide content, but the issue includes their Best Restaurant Dishes of 2007, and the sole New York representative is, you guessed it, the Bo Ssäm. (Sigh.) There’s also the excellent profile of Tailor’s Eben Freemen mentioned here recently and everything you want to know about what chefs are doing in New Orleans and Lake Tahoe. (Which in our case would be nothing.) Gourmet is all recipes and entertaining, as dull as paint, with, amazingly, an article about Padma Lakshmi’s chutneys with no image of the lady herself. (An article on the raising of Kobe cattle, though, fascinated us.) Finally, Food Arts brings their year-end trend piece, on the strange confluence of health consciousness and conspicuous consumption, as well as a piece by Pichet Ong on the rise of the celebrity pastry chef. Not a bad month in all.

More: In Other Magazines »dana bowen, food and wine, food arts, gourmet, padma lakshmi, saveur

In Other Magazines

9/21/07

1:57 PM

‘Gourmet’ Hits El Alto; ‘Bon Appétit’ Hails Chang

As we near the end of the month, it’s time to look at the latest batch of food magazines. Gourmet‘s entire October issue is devoted to Latin American cooking and has two big features that New Yorkers will want to check out: a profile of “El Alto,” the Dominican enclave in upper Manhattan, with a focus on the area’s restaurants, and a mouthwatering survey of taco trucks around the USA.