Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘hill country’

Neighborhood Watch 

6/18/08

3:00 PM

Quality Meats Testing Its Own Ice-Cream Brand; Wild Bill Clinton Eats at Hill Country

Bridgehampton: Tom Colicchio, Claudia Fleming, and the Ripper will be among the faces at the Great Chefs Dinner benefit on July 13. [Zagat Buzz]
East Village: Counter is hosting a tasting of organic and earth-friendly spirits and foods on Saturday afternoon to support green companies. [Local Wine Events]
Blue & Gold was robbed Monday, but don't worry — the burglars couldn't get the TVs off the wall. [Down by the Hipster]
Flatiron: Bill Clinton was at Hill Country last night. [Eater]
Long Island City: Mundo's specialty, Red Sonjas, are soft, red-lentil patties "flavored perfectly with parsley, scallions, and a hint of garlic" and served with fresh lettuce wraps. [Joey in Astoria]
Midtown East: Oceana is moving to a larger space next summer when its lease expires, and the new spot will have a raw bar. [NYS]
Midtown West: Dreamy-eyed Quality Meats pastry chef Cory Colton's ice creams are so good (he did study at Ice Cream University) that he's working on a trial run to retail a Quality Meats ice cream. [Restaurant Girl]
The Southside has abruptly closed. It was "no landmark, but Times Square has lost another affordable, independent restaurant. And that's not good." [Lost City]
Murray Hill: "Artisanal is like an uptown (really, midtown) Balthazar, with less noise, less crowding, and, true, much less of a frisson." Now with delicious aged steak. [NYT]

NewsFeed 

5/29/08

2:00 PM

The Big Apple BBQ Block Party Demands a Lot From Its Vendors

You're going to need a plan for this one.Photo courtesy Union Square Hospitality Group

The Daily News marvels today at the effort that goes into the Big Apple BBQ Block Party, but it’s actually even more difficult than they believe. The piece looks at three New York pit masters: Blue Smoke’s Kenny Callaghan, Dinosaur’s John Stage, and Hill Country’s Pete Daversa. Mostly, the men talk about how much meat they have to cook — 7,000 pounds of ribs for Callaghan, 3,000 pounds of pulled pork for Dinosaur, etc. But the real hardship lies with the poor souls who have to trek all the way cross-country, set up, live in the park all weekend (with occasional bed and shower breaks), and cook all those massive amounts of meat in borrowed smokers, while fending off the impertinent inquiries of passing foodies. Since all the food money goes to the Madison Square Park Conservancy to buy tulips or whatever, they’re lucky if they make enough selling T-shirts to pay for their gas. (Organizer Danny Meyer pays a fixed travel allowance, $2,500 in recent years, which barely covers costs for most out-of-state vendors.) But the love of barbecue is a mighty thing, and Meyer will never lack for meat martyrs seeking to spread the love of their art to the big city.

Smokin' good times at the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party [NYDN]

User's Guide 

5/23/08

12:00 PM

Make Hill Country Barbecue at Home This Weekend

hill country boar and lamb

Warning: DO try this at home!Photo: Melissa Hom

In the interest of better backyard barbecue, Metromix offers a feature today meant to help you go from BBQ schmo to BBQ pro, and it's a project we're totally behind. Unfortunately, you don't learn too much from the slideshow, which is really more of a photo-essay on commercial pitmastering than a really useful how-to guide. But given how much of the feature concentrates on Hill Country, and how important it is to have good smoked meat on holiday weekends, here's a quick step-by-step guide to approximating the Flatiron BBQ's signature products at home.

Read more»

Mediavore 

5/16/08

10:00 AM

Free Falafel Today; Food Fests Galore

• Don’t let the free-food giveaways end! Stop by Kosher Village and get a free falafel. [Gothamist]
Related: Kosher Village: We Feel Awful. Have a Free Falafel.

• The next time you reach for those Nacho Cheese Doritos, pair them with a glass a Pinot Gris. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

• There are lots of food fests to hit up this weekend, including the Taste of Tribeca, Ninth Avenue International Food Fest, and Cuisine of Queens and Beyond. [Serious Eats]

Read more»

Foodievents 

5/12/08

1:30 PM

Big Apple BBQ Lineup Is Promising, Familiar

You're going to need a plan for this one.Photo courtesy Union Square Hospitality Group

The Big Apple Barbecue Block Party, Danny Meyer's annual, free mega-event in Madison Square Park, just announced the participants for June 7 and 8, and we are pleased to see familiar, delicious names. Ed Mitchell of North Carolina will do his legendary whole-hog BBQ, and Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson's in Decatur, Alabama, will be on hand with his pulled pork. Jimmy Hagood of Black Jack BBQ in Charleston, South Carolina, is a notable newcomer, bringing his state's distinctive mustard-based sauces to a city more familiar with the North Carolina tradition. The New York contingent consists of Blue Smoke, Hill Country, Dinosaur, and the rarely mentioned but worthwhile Rack and Soul.

Big Apple BBQ [Official site]
Earlier: The Big Apple Barbecue Block Party Steamrolls the Opposition

Mediavore 

4/16/08

10:00 AM

Elaine’s Turns 45; Chefs Cursing Too $&#*$@% Much

Elaine’s turned 45 on Sunday, and Woody Allen, Richard Dreyfuss, and Gay Talese were there to celebrate. [City Room/NYT]

• Tom Colicchio thinks the profanity on this season of Top Chef is “excessive.” [NYT]

• Fresh out of court, Patsy’s (the midtown one) is opening a second location in Atlantic City.
Related: And the Winner in the Patsy’s-vs.-Patsy’s Suit Is…Patsy’s

• Excessive smoke caused the FDNY to pay a visit to Artichoke Basille’s Pizza & Brewery last night. [Slice]

• “Big Lou” Elrose, late of Hill Country, has a lot of barbecue styles to juggle at Wildwood Barbeque when it opens next week. [NYP]

NewsFeed 

4/ 7/08

5:30 PM

Hill Country Moves Beyond Briskets and Spareribs

hill country boar and lamb

Lamb chops and boar ribs: Try to find that in Luling!Photo: Melissa Hom

As Adam Platt and nearly everyone else noted, Hill Country’s stark menu featured items that were perfect models of simplicity as self-contained as sashimi: brisket, ribs, sausage, chicken, and a few semi-random specials like short ribs and pork loin. No more. Newly installed pitmaster Pete Daversa, 33, has begun expanding the Hill Country menu, and the results have been explosive. “I made ten racks of boar ribs the other day, and they sold out before we could write them on the menu,” he tells us.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

3/18/08

3:00 PM

Hill Country's Pit-Smoked Easter; Commerce Bartender No Fool

East Village: The dishes in Rhong-Tiam’s spice challenge (the prize for finishing the tasting menu is free dinner at a different Thai restaurant) aren’t as unbearably spicy as you’d expect, and the chef will give you a beer when you’re finished. [Gothamist]
Flatiron: Hill Country's serving up a pit-smoked Easter dinner this Sunday. [Strong Buzz]
Fort Greene: A boatload of restaurants in the neighborhood are offering prix fixe dinners for $23 next week for Dine in Brooklyn, including Chez Oskar, Olea, and Scopello. [Clinton Hill Blog]
Harlem: A reader feels that Slice NY severely underrates Patsy's. [Slice NY]
West Village: Commerce's bartender deals adeptly with douche bags. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]

Back of the House 

2/13/08

1:15 PM

Publicity Gambit at Carlyle Inspires Our Oscar-Themed Beverage Menu

Drinking the Daniel Plainview.Photo illustration: iStockphoto, Courtesy of Paramount Vantage

In a shameless (but successful, and we have to admit, brilliant) bid for free publicity, James Sakatos, executive chef at the Carlyle hotel, has come up with a menu of dishes inspired by this year’s Oscar nominees. There’s a tart for Juno (a cheap shot), “black ink risotto with blood orange foam for There Will Be Blood,” the ink standing in for oil, and the blood-orange foam for, well, blood; Dover sole for Michael Clayton because “George Clooney's morally conflicted lawyer found his ‘sole’ and ultimately did the right thing,” and so on.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

2/ 1/08

3:00 PM

Don’t Be an Ass, You’ll Be Made to Wait; Park Slope Gets Its Beer Table Saturday

Clinton Hill: John's Donut Shop & Restaurant looks like an unassuming diner, but a recent visit revealed an actual wait. Do people know something we don't know? [Clinton Hill Blog]
Dumbo: Water Street Restaurant is promoting $3 Draft Beers and a 2-for-1 Cheeseburger Special on Sunday. [Dumbo NYC]
Flatiron: If you get to Hill Country at 8 p.m. on a Saturday and come 9 p.m. you’re still waiting for a table, you’ve now struck "Shot o’clock," according to GM John Shaw, "gratis shots for all at the bar." [Eater]
Little Italy: This is proof that the city’s nightlife is still hot: "Degenerates of nyc in full swing at gold bar. 19 yr old Brazilians having makeshift photo shoots as the party floods into the D.J. booth to play with the new mac computers." Only Bangkok could be hotter than that! [Down by the Hipster]
Park Slope: Beer Table, whose SLA woes were chronicled by the Times this week, will open Saturday. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Tribeca: A bit of diner rudeness has been spotted around town lately — stool-swiping, line-cutting, table-hogging — but there’s a bit of consolation (and warning to offenders): Nobu co-owner Richie Notar revealed "they get secretly punished with extra-long waits." [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

NewsFeed 

1/ 4/08

2:00 PM

Robbie Richter and Hill Country Part Ways

Texas legend Rick Schmidt passed the log to Robbie Richter (right); now he passes it to Pete Daversa.Photo: Josh Ozersky

It’s a sad day for New York barbecue: Hill Country and pitmaster Robbie Richter have parted ways, a mutual decision both sides say was amicable. Richter, whose salt-and-pepper-powered Texas-style barbecue has been a huge critical success, says “there are new barbecue horizons, new directions, a world of flavors and techniques that I need to start exploring.” What might those be? Richter won't say -- yet. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Hill Country owner Marc Glosserman calls Richter “a passionate cook and a great champion of barbecue.” Pitmaster duties will be taken over by Pete Daversa, a Blue Smoke veteran who's been running basic barbecue operations under Richter since Hill Country opened.

Related: The Mystery of the Pitmasters Stymies the ‘Times’

Back of the House 

12/31/07

12:30 PM

This Year’s ‘Saveur’ 100 Is Thin on the NYC Love

It's that time of year again...

We know another year has gone by in the food world because the Saveur 100 is out. The list “offers a vivid snapshot of the wide … world of food,” says the magazine, so the picks skewed global — licorice from New Zealand, anyone? — but we are, as always, only interested in the New York stuff.

Read more»

The New York Diet 

12/14/07

8:00 AM

Jonathan Lethem Fuels His Writing With ‘White Trash’ Sandwiches

Lethem

Jonathan Lethem power lunches at Hanco's.Photo: Melissa Hom

Boerum Hill resident and author of Motherless Brooklyn and The Fortress of Solitude Jonathan Lethem is at work on a still untitled novel that’s set on the Upper East Side and features a character that’s always seen eating either an H&H bagel or a burger deluxe from Jackson Hole. The author also happens to be a bagel lover and tends to wolf them down with egg and cheese during writing breaks, something he describes as an “abject New York style of white-trash eating.” Of course, he’d never indulge in that for breakfast. “My tendency,” he says, “is to go from purity to decadence, like I’m reliving the fall of a great empire.” Here he recounts the rise and fall of his diet this week.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

12/12/07

9:30 AM

Pig Farmer to Deliver Pigs in Pig-Fueled Truck

Pig Mobile

This is not Eggleston's fleet, though we wish it were.Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Bev Eggleston, the Virginia pig farmer trying to revive Ossabaw pigs, has refitted his truck to run on barbecue grease! He's struck up a symbiotic friendship with Hill Country’s Robbie Richter (Richter gets to try great pork, Bev gets to eat great barbecue), and the two have come to an understanding by which Richter will save his grease for Eggleston’s special diesel engine. The idea’s not as crazy as it sounds: San Francisco asks restaurants to recycle grease for the city's bus fleet.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

12/11/07

3:15 PM

Live Poultry Not Live for Long in Woodside; Champagne at Paradou

Dumbo: The Japanese publication Mapple released a guide to the nabe and recommends Jacques Torres Chocolate, Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, and Grimaldi’s as top picks. [Dumbo NYC]
East Village: You don’t need to hunt down any Danish to track Frank Bruni; he’s a huge fan of Death & Co (and hopes the bar’s not really in trouble). [Diner’s Journal/NYT]
Meatpacking District: A $25 Champagne tasting at Paradou next Tuesday also comes with snacks. [Paradou NYC]
Midtown: A rare bottle of scotch fetched $54,000 at Christie's liquor auction last night. The Rob Roys we made with it were great. [Food and Wine]
Woodside: For a truly hands-on holiday meal, you can head to Bismillah Live Poultry market in the warehouse quarter; choose your "turkey out of a flock of around 30, and off it went in a shopping cart to be slaughtered, scalded in hot water, and plucked by the staff. Fifteen minutes later it emerged in a bag, warm to the touch, its fat tail sticking out." [The Grinder/Chow]

Back of the House 

12/10/07

3:30 PM

The Mystery of the Pitmasters Stymies the ‘Times’

Big Lou didn't come from a lunch wagon.Photo courtesy Lou Elrose

The Times, touching on a story Grub Street broke in October, had a big feature on the dearth of experienced pitmasters Sunday, pegged on GS pal Big Lou Elrose of Wildwood. The piece marvels at the quick ascent of Big Lou from working an Ozone Park lunch wagon to his current post, but in fact, Elrose’s bones were made as Adam Perry Lang’s right-hand man in competition; the lunch wagon was just a lark. Still, the city’s top pitmasters are as baffling to food writers as they are to the general public. Their job is hard to understand, because nothing they do happens while customers are present to observe. There is one factor that never changes, though, and will always separate real pitmasters from merely titular ones.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/27/07

12:16 PM

Molecular Gastronomist Wows Them in Rare New York Appearance

Hervé This explains it all… we think.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Hervé This, the famous French scientist who coined the term “molecular gastronomy,” yesterday made a rare New York appearance, lecturing first at the Institute of Culinary Education, then at NYU before the Experimental Cuisine Collective, and finally before the Culinary Historians of America at the soon-to-open Astor Center downtown. We were fascinated by This’s PowerPoint presentation, which featured food images, mathematical formulas, Venn diagrams, and images of classical artwork, all accompanied by gnomic, rambling commentary on the nature of things edible. (There seemed to be a lot of stuff about emulsification in there as well.) The truth is that we could make neither head nor tail of the talk, which apparently was totally different at each of the three appearances.

Read more»

Foodievents 

11/ 6/07

9:34 AM

Colicchio, Samuelsson, Hall, Others Shine at Taste of New York

Wylie Dufresne and Marco Canora yuk it up after the ball.Photo: Melissa Hom

Though the event did not run late, the food at last night’s Taste of New York was beyond reproach: Suba’s Seamus Mullen produced some ridiculously rich and crispy oxtail croquettes, and the Ciao Bella guys served a Turkish yogurt gelato that stopped visitors in their tracks. Hill Country’s beef riblets were one of the hits of the show, requested by other chefs even as they labored behind their own tables. Meanwhile, Jim Meehan of PDT was setting out the apple cocktails that seemed to be in everybody’s hands.

Read more»

In Other Magazines 

10/16/07

9:30 AM

‘Esquire’ to New York: Drop Dead

Dennis Foy

Esquire paints Dennis Foy as top twenty in the nation.Photo: Courtesy Dennis Foy

Are you kidding us? Only a trio of New York spots made Esquire’s “best new restaurants” list. And while the places described all sound good, if the likes of Rialto in Cambridge have all but three New York restaurants beat, then Pace is the new Harvard. The fact is this list represents a kind of trans-Hudson affirmative action for the restaurant world. Food columnist John Mariani picks good restaurants located outside New York in place of the more deserving restaurants inside the city limits, such as Insieme, Sfoglia, Ssäm Bar, Suba, Hill Country, and many others. It’s not their fault that New York has more good places than the rest of the country put together!

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

9/17/07

3:00 PM

Sushi Comes to Prospect-Lefferts at Last

Flatiron: Hill Country has unveiled a special cocktail list that makes use of artisanal Texas vodka Tito’s (also found in house cocktails at Morandi). [Down by the Hipster]
Long Island City: Even though its cheese soup is awfully cheesy, Bricktown Bagel Cafe is a welcome addition to the area for its comfy chairs and the mere fact that it’s not a liquor store. [LIC-NYC]
Prospect-Lefferts-Gardens: Sushi Tatsu is opening a second location on Flatbush in the space that was China City. [Across the Park]
Soho: Real-estate mogul Andrew Borrok plans to open a four-star restaurant next year with no concern for profits. [Eater]
Upper East Side: If you’re an adult, it’s best to avoid Bemelmans Bar on weekend afternoons when the iconic hotel lounge hosts a "Madeline tea party" for grade schoolers. [NYDN]

Neighborhood Watch 

9/14/07

3:05 PM

Pigskin Parties Kick Off at Hill Country; Rickshaw Delayed Yet Again

Chelsea: Hill Country has added big TV screens and plans on being party central for football games. [Grub Street]
Gramercy: Rodeo Bar is now the second place in New York to carry Shiner Bock. [Grub Street]
Greenwich Village: The ballyhooed opening of Rickshaw Dumpling Bar is delayed yet again. [Eater]
Long Island: The first mug shot is made public in the Josie Malave gay-bashing case. [TMZ]
Long Island City: Feminist beer and good salsa are to be found in a new spot in industrial LIC. [Joey in Astoria]
Midtown: Toloache is still your only spot in the neighborhood for grasshopper tacos. [Gothamist]
Williamsburg: Been feeling that what the area needed was a vegetarian Caribbean restaurant? Well, you’re in luck. [Bottomless Dish]

Neighborhood Watch 

9/13/07

3:05 PM

Women Chefs Congregate in Chelsea; Sam Mason Has Fans on the LES

Chelsea: 25 women chefs including Anita Lo and Del Posto pastry chef Nicole Kaplan will cook at a cancer benefit at Pier 60 on Monday. [Restaurant Girl]
Related: Women Chefs Come Out in Force For Benefit
Flatiron: Hill Country hosts 4-Foodies on September 18 for the online group’s second tasting event. [4-Foodies]
Harlem: Mexican street vendors will prepare the fare at Restaurante La Hacienda on September 19 for a Tamale and Tequila Tasting organized by the non-profit group Esperanza del Barrio. [Uptown Flavor]
Lower East Side: Tailor gets high marks from opening-night diners who may not have understood the menu, but appreciated the results. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Midtown West: A food cart on 46th Street at Sixth Avenue is serving up special Ramadan “break-the-fast” boxes. [Midtown Lunch]
Tribeca: Cognac week at Brandy Library means free tastings every night from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. through Saturday.

Neighborhood Watch 

9/ 5/07

3:10 PM

Flappers Seen at Harlem's Live-Poultry Market

East Village: Between securing a liquor license and finishing construction on what will be Sakaya sake store, the owners are blogging. [Down by the Hipster]
Flatiron: A BBQ tasting at Hill Country is the next stop for 4-Foodies; the event includes meeting the chefs and leaving with swag. [4-Foodies]
Harlem: “A few seemed comatose, their heads lolling, but most were lively” at La Granja live-poultry market on Amsterdam Avenue at 126th Street. The roasted results are so much better than supermarket chickens. [NYS]
Lower East Side: Months of Craigslist ads must have done some good, Tailor has scored Room 4 Dessert veteran Pam Yung as the fifth member of its kitchen team. [NYS]
Meatpacking District: Paradou’s next dirty bingo night is September 18: kinky prizes furnished by Kiki De Montparnasse.
Midtown East: Condolences to those who like a good frisking before lunch, the afternoon buffet in the U.N. Delegates Dining Room will be closed to the public from September 25 – October 5 while the General Assembly convenes. [NewYorkology]

The Other Critics 

8/29/07

12:42 PM

Franny’s Gets the All-Purpose Two Stars; Southern Hospitality Praised for Its BBQ

Franny’s is the recipient of one of Frank Bruni’s periodic low-end caprices, and gets awarded an absurd two stars as a result. [NYT]

Paul Lukas, a pretty serious student of barbecue, delivers the verdict on the new barbecues, and the surprise is that Southern Hospitality has some pretty damn good Memphis ribs. Hill Country, it goes without saying, gets lauded as the best BBQ in town. [NYS]
Related: Insatiable Critic: Southern Hospitality

“Rivulets of delicious grease are a common theme” is the key note to Paul Adams's review of Borough Food and Drink. Mmmm…grease…. [NYS]

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

8/28/07

3:00 PM

Hill Country Delivers in Flatiron; Music Coffeehouse Comes to Chelsea

Astoria: “Restaurant/cafe/bar/club type establishment” Apollon has closed. [Joey in Astoria]
Chelsea: Next Tuesday music production school DubSpot is opening a cafe on 14th Street at 9th Avenue that will feature La Colombe coffee. [Blog Chelsea]
Flatiron: Hill Country’s now delivering from 21st to 31st Street between 8th avenue and Park, but if you order enough ’cue they’ll lug it anywhere. [Grub Street]
Forest Hills: Shwarma destination On the Grill now sprinkles fried, lemony, Moroccan style jalapeños on its platters. [Gothamist]
East Village: Il Buco is closed for yearly renovations, but will reopen September 5th. [Grub Street]
Harlem: Canines and their humans can unite this Saturday for the first St. Nick’s Dog Park Coffee Bark of September. [Uptown Flavor]

NewsFeed 

8/27/07

9:00 AM

Hill Country Pits Graffiti Grows Worse Each Day

Bobby Flay leaves a typically combative message.Photo: Melissa Hom

Hill Country was born old. The day it opened, its walls and air vents had been painstakingly smoked-stained, and its floors distressed to look as if 10,000 gluttons had waddled across it over the years. But the pits were brand-new. Not so anymore: After one summer of operation, they’re now signed with the regards of dozens of chefs, politicians, celebrities, and members of the barbecue underground.

Read more»

Foodievents 

8/20/07

11:11 AM

Meatopia V: Grilled Gore and Guts

Mr. Cutlets

Mr. Cutlets approves this menu!Courtesy of Josh Ozersky

The response to our Meatopia V contest has been overwhelming. Grub Street is populated by committed carnivores who have filled our meat cooler with brilliant ideas for next year’s edible animal gala. We’ll highlight some of the best throughout the day and announce the winners tomorrow. (Entry deadline is 6 p.m. today.) Here are three of our favorites.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

8/17/07

4:31 PM

Gorge on BBQ in Chelsea This Sunday

Chelsea: Hill Country, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, and Mara’s Homemade are all taking part in the Hudson River Park Trust’s Blues BBQ on Pier 54 this Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. [TONY]
East Village: Monday’s Regional Dinner at Mercadito will highlight Mexico’s southern region with a menu featuring banana-leaf-wrapped pork and tres leches cake. [Grub Street]
Flatiron: Hill Country is hiring someone who can cut meat — must love high-energy restaurants. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Lower East Side: Wylie Dufresne switched up the bread at wd-50 from black to white sesame-seeded flatbread. [At the Sign of the Pink Pig]
Midtown West: Today is the last day of the Rockefeller Center greenmarket, but a farmer tells us there may be a deal to bring it back for fall. [Grub Street]
Soho: The developer behind the new glass hotel that will overlook 60 Thompson is Brack Capital Real Estate. [Down by the Hipster]
Times Square: Mickey D’s at 46th Street and Broadway is testing out a new Angus third-pounder that’s both thicker and juicier than their basic patty. [