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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘jean-georges vongerichten’

NewsFeed 

6/30/08

8:30 AM

Will Soba Be Another Japanese Crossover Hit?

Soba

Will Matsugen's soba stir the masses?Photo: Melissa Hom

Jean-Georges Vongerichten has high hopes for soba, the humble Japanese buckwheat noodle that is the foundation of his new restaurant, Matsugen. “I think all New Yorkers will love soba,” he predicted last week. But will soba join sushi and ramen as culinary immigrant success stories? Or will it be excised to the Japanese-food ghetto with okonomiyaki and tempura? Below, a guide to those Japanese foods that can carry a restaurant, and those doomed to be modest menu items.

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NewsFeed 

6/24/08

12:15 PM

Vongerichten Bets on Soba

jean georges vongerichten

Jean-Georges Vongerichten: In soba we trust.Photo: Getty Images

Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest venture, Matsugen, is essentially a high-end buckwheat noodle shop. What's one of the world's most famous French chefs doing slinging soba? We went to the source to find out.

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In the Magazine 

6/23/08

9:30 AM

Summer Eats: Lobster, Popsicles, Beer, and Soba

popsicle

Sit back and enjoy the summer. And the Summer Issue.Photo: Kang Kim

Summer's here, and depending on where you're coming from, that might mean cold noodles, spiked Popsicles, or just the simple pleasure of sitting outside drinking cold beer. Or maybe a combination of all three. In this week's issue, Rob and Robin introduce Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest effort, Matsugen, a soba-noodle restaurant in the space that was 66. In the annual Summer Guide, we find the city's new-wave Popsicles; learn all about selecting, cooking, and eating lobsters; and wash it all down at a new beer garden in Williamsburg.

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NewsFeed 

6/13/08

2:30 PM

Vongerichten Soba Palace Matsugen to Open Tomorrow

Matsugen, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s long-in-the-making soba project in the old 66 space, will open tomorrow night, Eater tipsters report. Vongerichten is expected to cut short his stay at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic and head back here to attend the opening. Inevitably, comparisons to the recently opened Soba Totto will be made; we’ll see what the Japanese gastronomes, in particular, think of the place. Sadly, the Japanese gourmet megamarket originally envisioned as part of the project has not come to pass.

Matsugen Mania: Jean-Georges’s Soba House Opens Tomorrow [Eater]
Earlier: Vongerichten’s Soba Plans Back On; Japanese Food Superstore Coming, Too?

NewsFeed 

4/22/08

12:00 PM

Private Time With Jean-Georges and a Park View for Only $9,000

This man's time is valuable.Photo: Getty Images

If Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s cookbook or his latest blog entry introducing his spring menu aren’t insight enough into Vongo’s world, Trump International is offering a two-hour Jean-Georges Culinary Master Course, in which he’ll show the ropes to two to four deep-pocketed aspiring cooks. But that’s not all, folks!

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NewsFeed 

4/22/08

11:05 AM

Nolita House Gets Less Cheesy Chef and Menu

Nolita House, the second-floor hideaway that’s perhaps best known for its brick-oven macaroni and cheese, has a new chef in Darryl Burnette, a Virginian and CIA grad who has worked under Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Charlie Palmer. He describes his style in a press release: “I believe in taking dishes that I've grown up with, throwing in a little French countryside cooking, Italian, or maybe some Thai street food flavors.”

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NewsFeed 

4/ 1/08

9:00 AM

Amanda Hesser Out at the ‘Times’

Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser has lost her Times halo.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Word came down yesterday that New York Times Magazine food editor Amanda Hesser accepted a buyout from the Times. Why now? There was a silly scandal a couple of years ago in which she was criticized for writing a fill-in review for Spice Market after Jean-Georges Vongerichten had blurbed her book. Even as recently as last week, an article about restaurant criticism in a Connecticut newspaper included an “Amanda Hesser Rule”: “the critic shall not review any restaurant owned or operated by a chef who has previously given her a quote for her book jacket.”

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Back of the House 

3/25/08

1:00 PM

Beatrice Inn Provides Valuable Sociology Lesson

beatrice inn

The University of Sevigny.Photo: Yun Cee Ng

At some point in your undergrad days, you were probably introduced to the twin concepts of gemeinschaft (community) and gesellschaft (society). If you weren’t, you may have been introduced to it while standing in line at the Beatrice Inn. Such is the melancholy realization of blogger Jeremiah Moss at Vanishing New York. As articulated by sociologist Ferdinand Tönnies, the tragedy of the modern world was the dissolution of communities into an ocean of self-interested particles living together in a heartless and abstract society. And could there be a better vision of this than citizens of Astoria and Secaucus jostling in line, attempting to gain entry to the Beatrice? As he ponders the atomization of the bar crowd, Moss uses the word “Vongerichtenization,” crediting it to Hunter College professor Frank Kirkland. The phrase refers to Jean George Vongerichten’s restaurants, which, regardless of their neighborhoods, cater to oligarchs. Kirkland, Moss notes approvingly, says that "a neighborhood that is 'Vongerichtified' would be one whose restaurants have shifted their cuisine, their ambiance, and their prices in this high-end direction." Soon it's all about the few and not the many...and you know the rest. Who needs college when we have doormen?

Beatrice Vongerichtified [Jeremiah's Vanishing New York]
Related: Paul Sevigny's ‘Top Secret’ Beatrice: Hipster Restaurant of the Season

Back of the House 

3/10/08

12:12 PM

Josh Eden: Dead Head

Josh Eden

He cooked scarlet begonias, tucked into his bass…Photo courtesy Metromix

Metromix’s “Kitchen Radio” feature on Shorty’s.32 chef Josh Eden is a fine spin on a tired gimmick. The most believable bit? The Dead Head chef claims that the multicolored sea bass with beets and green oil is a psychedelic tribute to his favorite band. But forcing Jean-Georges to listen to bootlegs from 1968? Torture.

Kitchen Radio: Josh Eden [Metromix NY]
Related: Chefs Continue to Rock, and We Reach for the Earplugs

Mediavore 

2/25/08

10:00 AM

Anne Burrell Is Riding High; Jean-Georges's Foot Problem

Centro Vinoteca chef Anne Burrell’s inspirations? Why, only the people she’s worked for, including Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali. [NYDN]

Crowds gathered at Cafe La Fortuna, the small 71st Street storefront once patronized by John Lennon and Yoko Ono, for its last day. [Lost City]

Bobby Flay has a new TV show, and you can have a small part of it. [Eater]

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Mediavore 

1/17/08

10:00 AM

Per Se Raises Prices; Shill for Whole Foods, Win Food

You’re going to regret not going to Per Se the last time you had a chunk of change to burn: Thomas Keller’s luxe restaurant has raised prices for both the regular and vegetarian menus to $275 for nine courses. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]

Violence continues in the Flatiron club district, as two men were arrested for stabbing a patron and a bouncer at Club Spy after a fight erupted in the VIP room. [NYP]

As part of House Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s Green the Capitol project, the cafeterias are getting a locavore makeover, with the goal to sell as much locally grown, organic food as possible. [WP]

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Mediavore 

12/19/07

10:00 AM

A Hip-hop IHOP in Brooklyn; Grant Achatz Beats Cancer

Mary J. Blige and Foxy Brown’s producer, known to fans as Don Pooh, owns what is already being called the “hip-hop IHOP” that opened in downtown Brooklyn yesterday. [NYDN]
Related: The Phantom IHOP of Midtown West

Meatpaper magazine is a popular read with both carnivores and vegetarians, which is how the founders learned that bacon, delectable treat of treats, “is how vegetarians change their minds” when they revert to their meat-eating ways. [NYT]

Today in unsubstantiated rumors: David Bouley’s forthcoming Japanese restaurant/cooking school will open across the street from Upstairs at Bouley. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Related: David Bouley to Open Restaurant With Japan’s Top Cooking School

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Engines of Gastronomy 

12/14/07

6:00 PM

Jean Georges’ CVap Oven Is ‘Better Than the Bag’

Mark Lapico lets all the steam out, just for us.Photo: Melissa Hom

Jean Georges isn’t a restaurant known for its attachment to experimental cuisine; if anything, J-G Vongerichten’s highly formal flagship is considered a bastion of old-school tablecloth dining. But Vongerichten has always been in the gastronomic vanguard, and he and chef de cuisine Mark Lapico are among the city’s most ardent admirers of the CVap oven, a controlled-humidity technology they use so much that there's three of them in the kitchen.

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NewsFeed 

12/13/07

2:00 PM

Vongerichten’s Soba Plans Back On; Japanese Food Superstore Coming Too?

Jean Georges's 66 is turning Japanese, we really think so.Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Though a deal is not yet signed, we can report that Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s partnership with Japanese restaurateurs the Matsushita brothers is back on. The building that used to house 66 will become a long-awaited soba restaurant and maybe something even better: a three-story Japanese megamarket. The soba restaurant, Matsu Gen, is envisioned as the anchor to what one source familiar with the project described as a “Japanese Zabar’s.” (A similar Japanese megamart, the Mitsuwa Marketplace, exists in Edgewater, New Jersey, and is a mecca for Japanese cooks and aficionados from all over the greater New York area.) It’s not definite that the full three-floor bazaar will come to pass, but the restaurant, at any rate, seems to be coming into focus.

Earlier: Vongerichten's Soba Plans May Be in the Soup
Vongerichten May Deep-Six 66, Serve Sushi and Soba Instead

Mediavore 

12/11/07

10:00 AM

Bloomberg's a Cookie Fiend; L.A. Resists Cupcake Trend

Mayor Bloomberg calls the oatmeal-raisin cookies served up at Gracie Mansion “addictive,” an opinion not shared by Giuliani, who didn't care for the in-house baker's sweets. [NYDN]

Fresh owner Eric Tevrow pleaded guilty to pocketing more than $1 million in sales and payroll taxes from his restaurants. [NYP]

Tickets for Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s tribute dinner at next year’s South Beach Wine & Food Festival have already sold out, despite being $500 a pop. Naturally, scalpers are already reselling them on eBay. [NYP]

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Mediavore 

12/10/07

10:00 AM

No Plaza for Graydon; Mr. Rachael Ray Drops $35K for Lunchbox

Graydon Carter won’t be taking over the Plaza’s Oak Room, so you’ll still have to head downtown to the Waverly Inn for that truffled macaroni and cheese. [NYP]

Jean-Georges Vongerichten seeks the elusive fifth taste by serving “umami bombs” at his restaurants. [WSJ]
Related: Waiter, There’s a Fifth Element in My Soup

It’s possible that locally grown products have a comparable or even greater carbon footprint than food that travels long distances, so you can stop patting yourself on the back for being a greenmarket fanatic. [NYT]
Related: Local Schmocal [NYM]

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Mediavore 

11/ 7/07

10:00 AM

Citywide Truffle Shortage; A New Eastside Fro-Yo Foe

A citywide truffle shortage can explain why “the Waverly Inn jacked up the price of its infamous truffle-topped mac & cheese from $55 to $85. The dish was an amusing punch line at $55; at $85, it's just obscene.” [NYP]
Related: Le Cirque Bids High for Monster Truffle

Bruni eschews all the courtesies one suffers at the dinner table, which he refers to as restaurantspeak: “Would I ‘enjoy coffee with dessert?’ I don’t know; it depends how good the coffee is. I’ll have some, yes, then we’ll see.” [NYT]

FR.OG has now lost Jean Georges alum chef Didier Virot to the Plaza’s new restaurant-to-be, the Palm Court, set to open later this year. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

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Openings 

10/26/07

9:00 AM

The Lenox Room Re-creates Itself As T-Bar

Even as T-Bar, the Lenox Room is still pretty cool.Photo courtesy T-Bar

Now that the Lenox Room has remade itself as T-Bar, a highly polished steakhouse on the Upper East Side, let’s have a moment of silence for its former identity. The Lenox Room was one of those very grown-up New York places. Opened in 1995, it wasn’t one of the top restaurants in town, but it was pure New York Establishment, thanks to owner Tony Fortuna, former manager of Lafayette (when Jean-Georges made his New York name) and Lespinasse (under the original stellar stewardship of Gray Kunz). Fortuna is one of those guys who really know how to run a restaurant, and although the times have called for a more casual, steak-centric approach, the restaurant still has something of the old cool. The food, a modern steakhouse menu with extensive fish, veal, and chicken selections, is as solid as before, no accident since the chef, Ben Zwicker, is still in place. But, as Fortuna says: “The Upper East Side is changing; it’s not where your father lives now. It’s gotten younger, and we needed a new vibe.” We liked the old one, but we understand.

Mediavore 

10/12/07

10:00 AM

De Niro's Tribeca Grill Sued; Fines Talk in City's Trans-Fat Fight

De Niro’s Tribeca Grill is the latest restaurant to be sued by ex-waiter complaining that managers skim tips. [NYP]

Kiwis consider the real key to Gordo’s New York success to be “Waikato farmboy” chef de cuisine Josh Emett. [New Zealand Herald]

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NewsFeed 

10/11/07

12:51 PM

Vongerichten's Soba Plans May Be in the Soup

66

The soba future of 66 is uncertain.Photos: Getty Images

Is Jean-Georges Vongerichten reconsidering plans for a soba restaurant? We’re hearing from sources within the Japanese restaurant community that Vongo’s deal with the Matsushita brothers has collapsed. The idea was to turn 66 into a Matsu Gen, a temple to the art of buckwheat noodles. The place was slotted to open this spring, but expectations are low. So will the 66 space get a new concept, or will Vongerichten do a soba restaurant with somebody else? We’ll let you know when we hear.

Related: Vongerichten May Deep-Six 66, Serve Sushi and Soba Instead

Mediavore 

10/ 9/07

10:00 AM

A Happy New York Ending for Gordo; Bruni Thinks Michelin Ratings ‘Just Nutty’

Gordon Ramsay at the London is the only new restaurant in town to earn two stars in the Michelin Guide, a conquest that’s especially sweet here where the chef is often maligned and/or mocked — by us, for example. [NYP]
Related: Gordon Ramsay, Gay Icon

Two of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's “lesser lights,” Vong and JoJo, have received the same Michelin rating as Café Boulud, and according to Bruni, “that’s just nutty.” [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Jean-Georges has promoted a 24-year-old star sous-chef to be chef de cuisine at Perry St. [Eater]

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Trimmings 

10/ 5/07

5:24 PM

Jean-Georges's $40,000 Light Makes You Look Like a Million Bucks

Light fixture

No, that’s not the Flying Spaghetti Monster. Photo: Melissa Hom

When Jean-Georges Vongerichten retooled his namesake restaurant, his lighting designer Herve Descottes wanted, in his words, “to bring a little bit of attention to the center of the room” — and boy did he! The Frenchman spent six months and over $40,000 working with Seattle firm Neidhart Lighting to create a steel fixture that looks like a shitake mushroom and is also “a little bit sensual.” Each lamp is trimmed with reflective gold leaf. Three 35-watt halogen bulbs are controlled by a computer, with different settings for lunch, early dinner, and post–8 p.m., when the light is softest because there’s no competing sunlight. Installing the arms wasn’t exactly a breeze: “They were dancing a little bit,” says Descottes. It looks like they still are — but then maybe that’s just the Mouton buzz.

Neighborhood Watch 

9/19/07

2:57 PM

Calling All Casseroles; Jonathan Waxman to Cook Southern on the UWS

Greenpoint: Casserole fanatic turned cookbook author Emily Farris is hosting a cook-off at Brooklyn Label on October 16. Register now! [Brooklyn Based]
Midtown East: The Tao formula should fit right in on Lincoln Road in South Beach. [Down by the Hipster]
Tribeca: Bubby’s owner Ron Silver is finally giving up his pie recipes in a cookbook out this month. [NYS]
Upper West Side: Barbuto chef-partner Jonathan Waxman turns to southern fare this fall when he opens Madaleine Mae on Columbus Avenue at 82nd Street. [NYT]
West Village: In comparing Bay Area restaurant trends to those in New York, critic Michael Bauer concedes: Blue Hill chef Dan Barber “does Chez Panisse one better by growing most of the food at his farm in Hudson Valley.” [Between Meals/San Francisco Chronicle]

NewsFeed 

9/19/07

1:30 PM

Jean-Georges Schools Chodorow in the Art of Blogging

Jean-Georges

Does the Beard House have a power outlet?Photo: Patrick McMullan, iStockphoto

So it’s not anywhere near as dishy as Chodorow’s site, but it seems Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s two-week-old blog is at least sticking to its promise to update us every Tuesday on “what I’ve been cooking, where I’ve been traveling, and what I’ve been thinking.” (It's a Blogger site with a pretty standard template — did Jean-Georges make this himself?) Even if he isn’t slamming Bruni and Platt, Vongo is at least confessing to cooking with a machine developed for Kentucky Fried Chicken (scandalous!) and getting his daughter’s birthday cake from a bakery instead of from his dessert man Johnny Iuzzini (c’est impossible!). Another shocker: “I love eating in New York. From the tacos and margaritas at Los Dados (where I often stop after a night of cooking at Spice Market).” Jean-Georges is still cooking at Spice Market?

Jean-Georges Vongerichten [Blog]

The In-box 

8/30/07

9:30 AM

What Do You Mean? We Love the Upper East Side!

There's only one Sandro, and he isn't in Park Slope.Photo: RJ Mickelson

Dear Grub Street,
The Upper West Side is teeming with activity, as is every other area of Manhattan, but I very rarely see anything on the Upper East Side. What have you got against the several hundred thousand people who live there and their restaurants and chefs?
— A reader with a valid gripe.

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NewsFeed 

8/24/07

9:30 AM

Chef Roman à Clef: “I'm Not Abbe”

Keith and Jody

Keith/George and Jody/Cory.Photo: Patrick McMullan (McNally) and Johnny Miller (Williams)

Yesterday we speculated that Sympathy for the Restaurant Industry — a new site that is fictionalizing restaurant-industry players — was the work of PXThis blogger Abbe Diaz. The pillorying of Sam Mason, Keith McNally, et al sounded pretty much like e-mails from Abbe. But the author insists to us: “No, I’m not Abbe. She's the original, the godmother of restaurant blogs and general awesomeness. I'm not worthy.” Hmm — suspiciously high praise.

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Mediavore 

7/27/07

10:00 AM

Vongerichten Sued Once Again; East Village Cooks Nab Perv

Jean-Georges Vongerichten is being sued by employees from eight of his restaurants, who claim he underpaid them, cheated them of overtime, and made them share tips with bosses. This is the chef’s third suit of the year. [NYDN]

Two East Village cooks spot the serial groper they had previously saved a woman from. [NYP]

Millions of cans of food are literally bursting with botulism, and New York is among the states where the germ bombs have turned up. [Fox News]

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Back of the House 

7/25/07

9:00 AM

Why Is Alan Richman So in Love With Brooklyn?

At the Good Fork, at least, Alan Richman can relax.Photo: Kenneth Chen

Given that Alan Richman has become a kind of professional debunker, the Amazing Randi of the food world, it was with some relief that we read his critical overview of Brooklyn in the new issue of GQ. The verdict: Brooklyn rules! Gramercy Tavern, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and the cities of Las Vegas and New Orleans, all victims of his scorn over the last few years, must be fuming.

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Mediavore 

7/10/07

10:00 AM

Vongerichten Sued by Ex-Waiters; Subway Complies With Calorie Law

Six former employees of V Steakhouse file a class-action suit against Jean-Georges Vongerichten for the usual reasons: sub-minimum wage and garnished tips. “We were kind of given the idea that the waitstaff is dispensable, that there were a million people who would come in and do your job.” [NYDN]

Unlike the other fast-food chains, who have adamantly resisted the calorie-posting law, Subway has already started to implement it. [Consumerist]

Healthy zombies should do their best to follow the zombie food pyramid, which calls for six to eleven servings of brains every day, and only sparing amounts of bones and gristle. [Serious Eats]

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Openings 

7/ 2/07

9:41 AM

Saju Just Sneaked Into Midtown

Saju, your midtown spot for pho and canoodling.Photo: Melissa Hom

While no one was looking, New York just got another high-end Vietnamese restaurant in Saju, at the Hotel Mela. The place is in what could loosely be called soft-opening mode, largely because they are still ten days away from a liquor license and are still BYOB. But the food, mostly classical versions of Vietnamese dishes, shows the kind of French influence that comes from colonial occupation, rather than “fusion cooking” per se. (The fact that a Frenchman, Osteria al Doge's Philippe Bernard, is a co-owner underscores its Gallic pedigree.)

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Mediavore 

6/ 8/07

10:45 AM

Pret a Manger Set for Huge Expansion Here; Ramsay Bans Bluefin

British sandwich chain Pret a Manger is launching an expansion of Starbucks-like proportions, announcing plans to open 33 more locations in New York — four times the current number. “If New York could support one on every corner, we’d love that,” the company’s head says. [NYS]
Related: Out to Lunch [NYM]

Urged by the Marine Conservation Society, Gordon Ramsay pulls endangered bluefin tuna from all his restaurants. [NRN]

The Department of Health’s current closure rampage continues with Union Picnic in Williamsburg, Café Angelique, and J’adore in Manhattan. [Eater]

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