Grub Street Posts Tagged: kate julian

Wylie Wins Respect for Molecular Gastronomy With a Third Star; Bar Boulud Finally Gets a Good Review

In a landmark for molecular gastronomy in America, the movement’s top proponent, Wylie Dufresne, gets his third star for wd-50. A historic review, especially as Frank Bruni expresses the usual reservations about overly cerebral cooking. [NYT] Bar Boulud finally gets some respect from Alan Richman, who praises its blue-ribbon charcuterie and says of its much-maligned mains, “The worst that can be said…is that the recipes are relentlessly conventional — lamb stew, roasted chicken, boudin blanc. The best is that such a style of cooking is terribly missed.” [GQ] Restaurant Girl seems to have been distinctly unimpressed with about half of the dishes she tried at Adour, resulting in a lukewarm, two-and-a-half-star review. Ducasse’s latest is not getting off to a great start. [NYDN]

Posted 03/05/08 in Grub Street : The Other Critics
Tags: adour, alan richman, bar boulud, blue ribbon sushi, danyelle freeman, frank bruni, kate julian, park avenue winter, paul adams, peter meehan, randall lane, restaurante taqueria gurerro, robert sietsema, ryan sutton, seymour burton, southgate, The Other Critics, wd-50, wylie dufresne
Richman Lambastes Landmarc; Has Sietsema Lost His Mind?

Robert Sietsema reviews what might be the most un-Sietsema-like place imaginable, a twee Williamsburg bistro called Juliette. “The snails in anise butter are fab, and so is the whole steamed artichoke flaunting a festive champagne vinaigrette.” Okay, call the FBI. The real Robert Sietsema has obviously been kidnapped. [VV] “Think too much and you'll find the place hard to like”: Alan Richman sees the new Landmarc for what it is – a stark, expensive, underachieving restaurant with few niceties of service or cooking – but still manages to find something nice to say about the steaks. [Bloomberg] Related: Will Landmarc's Downtown Cool Play Alongside Its Ritzy New Neighbors? [Grub Street] Frank Bruni had a high old time at Resto, so much so that he gave the place a shocking two stars. Expect all future reviews to react to this hyperbole by taking pains to note the place’s shortcomings.[NYT] Related: Brussels Sprout [NYM]

Posted 05/23/07 in Grub Street : The Other Critics
Tags: alan richman, anthos, frank bruni, juliette, kate julian, landmarc, paul adams, provence, randall lane, resto, robert sietsema, The Other Critics, time warner center
‘New Yorker’ Backs Up the Chowhounds; Sietsema Uncovers a Food Court’s Secrets

The New Yorker discovers Sripraphai, and though baffled by its vast and uneven menu, admits that the chowhounds were right to glorify the place. [NYer] Sietsema provides his readers with a major service this week, guiding them through one of the city’s best and most baffling food courts in the Flushing’s J&L Mall [VV] Rosanjin gets the two-star Bruni treatment in its first review, and seems to only have missed a third star by reason of anticlimactic later courses. Still, an auspicious start. [NYT]

Posted 03/28/07 in Grub Street : The Other Critics
Tags: 21, alan richman, azza, bemelmans bar, caffe falai, european union, flushing, frank bruni, kate julian, paul adams, peter meehan, randall lane, restaurante las americas, robert sietsema, rosanjin, ryan sutton, sripraphai, sunnyside, The Other Critics
Russian Tea Room Slammed; Einstein’s Theory Applied to Cambodian Food

Christmas comes in January for Danny Meyer, as Bruni awards both Eleven Madison Park and the Bar Room at the Modern three stars. [NYT] Using the Theory of Relativity, Sietsema explains why Kampuchea is special without really being special at all. [VV] Alan Richman jumps on the Russian Tea Room with both feet. Key words: “gummy,” “inedible,” and “your grocer’s freezer.” [Bloomberg]

Posted 01/10/07 in Grub Street : The Other Critics
Tags: alan richman, bar room at the modern, cafe cluny, eleven madison park, frank bruni, kampuchea noodle bar, kate julian, paul adams, peter meehan, randall lane, robert sietsema, russian tea room, The Other Critics, waverly inn