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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘keith mcnally’

Mediavore 

5/15/08

10:00 AM

Food Prices Still Surging; Farewell to the Minetta Tavern

• The increase in food prices last month was the greatest one-month hike in eighteen years. [NYP]

• Mariah Carey was very protective of her wedding cake — which was delicious, by the way – on the way to the Bahamas. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

• Not only is there free coffee at Dunkin’ Donuts today, but you can also get a free Southern Style Chicken sandwich at McDonald’s if you buy a drink. [Midtown Lunch]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/14/08

12:00 PM

McNally, Colicchio, Meyer Among Most Powerful Real-Estate Players

keith mcnally

Number 90.Photo: Patrick McMullan

The Observer comes out with a list of the city’s real-estate power players, and, not surprisingly, plenty of restaurant folk make the cut. Scary to us is that none of them rank as high as Christine Quinn — the anti-nightlife councilwoman who will, according to the piece, help determine the fate of billions of dollars of development in the next months — or Daniel Boyle, the chairman of the New York State Liquor Authority. Nevertheless, Danny Meyer clocks in at number 24, followed by Robert De Niro (26), health commissioner Thomas Frieden (82), Tom Colicchio (84), and Keith McNally (90). Steve Cuozzo, “the Andy Rooney of New York’s real estate and restaurant worlds,” has to be smarting over being ranked several notches below Frank Bruni, the man with the “ugh more feared than any other reviewer.” We're wondering where Nicholas Gray is, who, with Gray’s Papaya stands (and their imitators), is fighting back the scourge of ATM machines with hot dogs, a noble fight if ever there were one.

The 100 Most Powerful People in New York Real Estate [NYO via Eater]

NewsFeed 

4/24/08

1:55 PM

Minetta Tavern Will Close for McNally Makeover May 6

minetta tavern

The more things change…Photo: Mike Rogers

If you’re the nostalgic type, rather than the "can’t wait to see what Keith does with it" type (perhaps you’d rather remember the Waverly or the Beatrice the way they were), you might want to get to onetime speakeasy Minetta Tavern before its last night under the current ownership — May 6. As we’ve reported, the restaurant will soon be McNallied, with Baltha-czars Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr Frenchifying the menu. A bartender assured a friend of Grub who dined there last night that the fixtures and memorabilia would remain in place. The bartender wasn’t sure whether she, too, would be allowed to stay.

Related: McNally Plans to Frenchify Minetta Tavern, Assures CB It's No Big Deal

NewsFeed 

4/21/08

11:05 AM

Mitchell Davis Stands Up for Morandi in ‘The Art of Eating’

the art of eating

Ed Behr's The Art of Eating strikes again.

We never could figure out why critics were so underwhelmed with Morandi when it opened. Not that Keith McNally’s foray into Italian food was exactly slammed, but it got no hint of the love with which all his other restaurants are uniformly showered. Was Morandi the Cable Guy of the McNally canon? An essay by James Beard Foundation VP Mitchell Davis in the new issue of The Art of Eating argues that Morandi is a victim of a double standard: Critics, he says, “evaluate French restaurants and food against an arbitrary standard of tradition or classicism, while judging Italian restaurants and food against an equally arbitrary standard of authenticity.” There might be something to Davis’ point — a lot of ink was spilled on Morandi’s phony-baloney qualities, when they were, after all, meant to be transparent. In any case, the piece is a discerning meta-review and thoughtful in a way typical of The Art of Eating, an obscure but admirable publication unfortunately not available online. With their permission, though, we're including a PDF of the essay so you can read it in full.

New York: Variations on a Theme Restaurant [PDF]

Mediavore 

4/ 9/08

10:00 AM

Calorie Law Doomed?; Colicchio Hasn't Been to Ko Either

• The very study that was used by the Health Department to crusade for mandatory calorie posting in food chains may now be used by defense lawyers to undermine the law’s future. [NYS]

• Some Lower East Siders are not stoked about Bruce Willis opening the Bowery Wine Company, so they’re going to buy a pig, name it Bruce, and then eat it. [NYP]

• Wine bars are everywhere, and, thankfully, they’re a lot less stuffy than they used to be. [NYT]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

3/12/08

9:55 AM

McNally Plans to Frenchify Minetta Tavern, Assures CB It's No Big Deal

minetta tavern

The Minetta Tavern enters the McNally-verse.Photo: Mike Rogers

A year ago, Keith McNally claimed Morandi would be his last restaurant, but he revealed at last night's Community Board 2 meeting that Minetta Tavern will join his repertoire. McNally plans to keep the name and setup, but change the menu from Italian to French, in the vein of Balthazar. When community residents asked what sort of crowd McNally's name may draw, he retorted, "They won't be French," and explained that his restaurants are "not the type of places where people spill out of white limos." So he's not expecting this to be the next Waverly Inn? "I'm lucky if I open the doors and people come," McNally said. The board approved McNally's bid.

La Esquina showed how it's done when it pleaded for a liquor license for its sidewalk café. A large group of supporters attested that owners Derek Sanders and Serge Becker are "altruistic and very caring." Said one resident: "I would personally be bothered if I couldn't sit down and have a beer." Word! And application approved. —Lucy Tang

Neighborhood Watch 

3/ 6/08

3:10 PM

Psilakis Hopes to Move Kefi by July; Collective Sausage in Soho

Clinton Hill: Some people like Sushi Okdol on Myrtle Avenue, others find it "meh," but the place will host children’s birthday parties. [Clinton Hill Blog]
Midtown East: The owners of Burger Kings at 485 Fifth Avenue and 129 East 47th Street refused to sell $1 value meals because they say they were losing money on the company’s specials. The locations have been shuttered, but they’re suing BK for the right to charge more in Manhattan. [NYDN]
Soho: Always wanted to make a "collective memory sausage"? You can on April 8, when the Umami Food and Art Festival kicks off at Roulette, 20 Greene Street. [Strong Buzz]
Upper West Side: Michael Psilakis plans to move Kefi around July to open his fourth restaurant. [Gothamist]
West Village: Anito Lo expects to have her barbecue spot, Q, around April. [Eater] Something’s happening to Minetta Tavern, but it might not be Keith McNally's doing. [Eater]

Back of the House 

2/28/08

2:00 PM

Meyer, McNally, Nieporent Respond to New NYC Food Festival

SOBE crowd

The parties up here won't look like this.Photo courtesy Profile Public Relations

The Times reported last week that New York will get its own Lee Schrager food festival this fall (as we predicted last year), but does the city’s food community really want one? We rang up a few people who we’d expect to be involved with such an event and got a mixed reaction.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

2/ 8/08

3:00 PM

David Waltuck on Cooking in Tribeca for 30 Years; Clover Club Coming to Carroll Gardens

Carroll Gardens: The Clover Club — the Smith Street cocktail spot from the Flatiron Lounge people have a sign up. Getting close! [Off the Presses]
Gramercy: Shockingly, for some cooked-food enthusiasts, "some of Pure’s dishes, and not just obvious things like salad, are downright delicious." [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Greenwich Village: Somebody told somebody that a bartender at a new bar told him that Keith McNally may have put a $1 million bid on Minetta Tavern. [Eater]
Hell’s Kitchen: Video of Dave Martin concocting a special Valentine’s Day gelato to serve at Crave. [Snack]
Tribeca: David Waltuck "first got behind the stove [at Chanterelle] — and set the restaurant on its path to becoming one of the city’s most cherished — before he was 25 years old. He’s now 53." And ready for a Q&A with Frank Bruni. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]
West Village: Grom is totally coming to Bleecker Street, and they’re accepting applications now for a March opening. [Eat for Victory/VV] Was Beatrice Inn raided and shut down last night? [Down by the Hipster]

Mediavore 

1/10/08

10:00 AM

Keith McNally Sued; Huckabee Serves Clam Chowder in New Hampshire

According to a new class-action suit being brought against Keith McNally, servers at Pastis and Balthazar were forced to foot the bill for customers who walked out on their checks, in addition to being denied minimum wage. [NYP]

Frank Bruni, like many other critics, believes a restaurant’s chicken dishes speak volumes about its overall quality. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

E-mails sent by Starbucks Corp. managers reveal their efforts to prevent unionizing among their employees, although labor experts say the activity is not illegal. [WSJ]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/ 5/07

2:24 PM

McNally Unites With the Workers of the World

Keith McNally

Purveyor of cruelty-free caviar.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Keith McNally can appreciate the effectiveness of a good rally — you’ll recall he personally protested the billboard that’s going up atop the Gansevoort Hotel. So when workers rallied outside of Pastis over the restaurant’s use of provisions from Wild Edibles (which has been sued over allegations of unpaid overtime), you can bet McNally listened. Brandworkers International announced today that Balthazar, Schiller’s, Morandi, Pravda, and Lucky Strike will no longer use products from the company until the dispute is resolved. Comrade McNally, we’re heading to Pravda right now to toast you with a horseradish-and-poached-egg martini.

Earlier: Wild Edibles Gets Caught in the Net of the Law

NewsFeed 

8/24/07

9:30 AM

Chef Roman à Clef: “I'm Not Abbe”

Keith and Jody

Keith/George and Jody/Cory.Photo: Patrick McMullan (McNally) and Johnny Miller (Williams)

Yesterday we speculated that Sympathy for the Restaurant Industry — a new site that is fictionalizing restaurant-industry players — was the work of PXThis blogger Abbe Diaz. The pillorying of Sam Mason, Keith McNally, et al sounded pretty much like e-mails from Abbe. But the author insists to us: “No, I’m not Abbe. She's the original, the godmother of restaurant blogs and general awesomeness. I'm not worthy.” Hmm — suspiciously high praise.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

8/23/07

2:42 PM

Chef Roman à Clef Continues; Keith McNally Pilloried

Keith McNally

Keith McNally, or George Wentworth?Photo: Patrick McMullan

Yesterday we treated you to the first chapter of a story seemingly based on Sam Mason and his trials and travails with Tailor. We can now confirm, after contacting the author — who is remaining anonymous (even to us!) because he or she is “notorious within the industry” — that the story is based on Mason and Johnny Iuzzini as well as other players. “Yes, I plan on continuing,” assures the well-connected scribe, “and yes, I have inside info. I’ve been getting a lot of mail, but I would never run anything that I hadn’t triple-checked to be true.”

Read more»

Restroom Report 

5/25/07

5:06 PM

Ono, I Really Have to Go!

When you're done in the restroom (left), there's flirting and soap-squirting at the communal sink (right).Photo: Daniel Maurer

Now that we’ve brought you the steaming poop on Keith McNally’s loos, we can’t help but wonder — who are the other restroom-auteurs? The titans who dream up a new restaurant and imagine themselves walking into its grand opening on a red carpet of double-ply? There is one such man: Mr. Jeffrey Chodorow. When we praised his Kobe Club restrooms last week, we thought the tiles looked familiar — indeed they’re a holdover from Ono, also designed by “Chodobro” Jeffrey Beers. Shall we visit what may be their finest crossing of creative swords?

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Neighborhood Watch 

5/25/07

2:46 PM

Whole Foods Blamed for Beetle Infestation on the Lower East Side

Bushwick: Too hard to keep organic? Resident and Blue Hill at Stone Barns alum Kelly Geary will purchase your share of produce from Community Supported Agriculture, turn it into weekly meals (and pies), then deliver it (citywide). Just join by the first week in June. [DailyCandy]
Long Island City: New Greek restaurant Agnanti opens Memorial Day near the Astoria pool. [LICNYC]
Lower East Side: Bowery Whole Foods blamed for beetle infestation in apartments at Avalon Christie Place. [Racked] Rumor mill set a-cranking with speculation that Keith McNally might turn an empty space on Essex and Canal into a Parisian brasserie. [Eater]
Red Hook: The Added Value farm that employs South Brooklyn teenagers will be featured on a PBS series dedicated to sustainable food. [Only the Blog Knows Brooklyn]
Times Square: You know that neon sign for Virgil’s? It’s a bowl of Chinese noodles. [Lost City]
West Village: A photo ode to Blue Ribbon Bakery’s indulgent sandwiches. [Gothamist] Former fab Bungalow 8 bouncer Armin Amiri’s new club, Socialista, will have a little person named Anthony manning the door. [NYP]

Restroom Report 

5/11/07

4:17 PM

Keith McNally: A Restro-spective

Odeon: McNally's potty training.Photo: Daniel Maurer

As we noted when we toured the restrooms at Morandi, Keith McNally has pissed away a great deal of money to make his restaurant lavatories the gold standard. When Morandi failed to hit the mark, we were truly bummed, so to restore our faith in the master (and to make sure we weren’t remembering his previous works through Clorox-colored glasses), we decided to embark on an epic stall crawl of McNally’s previous loos, from Pravda’s Commie commodes to (pardon our French) the shitters at Schiller’s. Come flush with us.

Read more»

Mediavore 

5/ 9/07

10:32 AM

City Gears Up to Better Police Labor Violations; Beef Threatens Fish at Le Bernardin

City Council to introduce a bill giving authorities more power to crack down on restaurant labor violations like the alleged ones at Saigon Grill. [MetroNY]
Related: 100 Students to Protest Saigon Grill [Grub Street]

Kobe beef, having once appeared on Le Bernardin’s menu, is taking over and chasing the fish away – a fact chef Eric Ripert is less than thrilled about. [NYP]

Bizarre details of Mr. Chow’s abuse emerge from the lawsuit, including information about one employee who was forced to lie on the floor and be menaced and even kicked by the diminutive restaurateur. [Gawker]

Read more»

Beef 

5/ 8/07

2:14 PM

McNally Takes a Cheap Shot at Bruni

Did Keith McNally really have to go there?Photo: Patrick McMullan

In yet another retributive strike by a restaurateur against Frank Bruni (Jeffrey Chodorow's much-discussed broadside being the first), Morandi owner Keith McNally has planted a letter with Eater accusing the Times critic of being biased against woman chefs. “Bruni had never given a female chef in Manhattan anything more than one star, ever,” McNally writes. The complaint goes on for a long time and seems unlike McNally, who has almost always stayed above the fray. What’s especially unseemly is the way the letter dwells on Bruni’s attitude toward gender (“…when the chef is a man Bruni often makes quite a song and dance about it.”) Given the amount of food-world speculation about Bruni’s sexual orientation, this seems like a low blow, especially since the Times’ review echoed a near-universal critical consensus about Morandi. Times dining editor Pete Wells, asked to comment about the letter, agrees, saying simply, “Frank’s review speaks for itself. Period.”

Keith McNally: Bruni Has 'Unremittingly Sexist Slant' [Eater]

The Other Critics 

4/25/07

12:11 PM

One Reluctant Star to Morandi, Big Ups to Fette Sau

Having earlier disposed of Balthazar, Bruni moves on to Morandi and asks: “Is this tribute or burlesque?” Though he doesn’t dig the menu’s “greatest-hits approach,” he concedes Jody Williams’s food is “getting a worse rap than it deserves” (seems he read the Platt review). Final word: “Morandi can simply feel tired before its time, and not quite worth the struggle to get in and stay upright in the scrum.” [NYT]

Spiga, meanwhile, isn’t taking a traditional approach and suffers for it, according to Tables for Two. Chef Salvatore Corea has ideas, but “too many ideas, in some cases”— starting with the cocoa gnocchi. [NYer]

Sietsema brings his own Wonder bread to publicity-starved Fette Sau and finds baseball-bat beef ribs, spectacular brisket, damn good flank steak and shredded lamb “fragrant with the odor of pasturage.” [VV]
Related: Williamsburg’s Weird Barbecue Place

Read more»

Ask a Waiter 

4/24/07

5:30 PM

Lovers, Allow Pravda’s Rania Haditirto to Show You to Table 69

"I get people who start speaking to me in Russian and are disappointed I’m not Russian."Photo: Melissa Hom

Nathan Frye, our first Ask a Waiter, sat out Balthazar’s tenth-anniversary last night, but it was a grand ole time — much Champagne was spilled and a total stranger tried to crawl onto our table. Of course, Balthazar wasn’t the first of Keith McNally’s restaurants to turn ten — last year Pravda had an equally boisterous birthday celebration. To be fair we thought we’d get the straight propaganda from Rania Haditirto, bass player for the rock band the Kelly Affair, who has been a server at the vodka den for half of its life span.

Read more»

Mediavore 

4/24/07

10:38 AM

McNally Loves Balthazar and Maria Bello; Imus Types Prank Chinese Restaurant

Keith McNally talks about Balthazar, where the breakfast service is "absurdly busy" and his last meal would be "on the navel of the actress Maria Bello." [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

More radio morons in hot water: CBS suspends Elvis and JV for pranking a Chinese restaurant, asking for "shrimp flied lice," making dumb egg-roll jokes, and other old-time, racist vulgarities. [CBS News]

Spain’s El Bulli named top restaurant in the world again. No. 2? The Fat Duck in London. It’s a proud day for molecular gastronomy. [CNN]

Read more»

Mediavore 

4/23/07

10:31 AM

Restaurant I.D.-Theft Ring Exposed; Ted Nugent–Influenced Cuisine

Waiters in 40 restaurants formed a huge identity-theft ring, recording credit-card numbers and making $3 million in purchases. [Fox NY]

Donald Trump gets a sweetheart deal from the state to build Trump on the Ocean, a huge restaurant and banquet hall, on Jones Beach. [Newsday]

Chef J.J. Rachou is still feeling the sting from his Department of Health closure and can't bring himself to reopen Brasserie LCB yet. “If you lift every can, you find a cockroach,” he says. [NYT]

Read more»

In the Magazine 

4/ 2/07

12:00 PM

The Robs Go Oeuf Their Rockers, Platt Stops Short of Giving Morandi a Goose Egg

Morandi: Not so bene.Photo: Jeremy Liebman for New York Magazine

This week’s magazine is an overflowing egg basket of fascinating features. First, Adam Platt proves himself a glutton for punishment: Just a week after successfully securing a table at the Waverly Inn without being a movie star (just the brother of one), he charges head first into the dining crunch at Morandi. Rob and Robin, meanwhile, take on the equally ambitious task of attempting the perfect poached egg — part of an “egg primer” that rounds up their favorite dishes and introduces us to specialty eggs that don’t exactly taste like chicken. Meanwhile, Gael Greene opts to down her egg in fish form at the newly opened counter at Wild Edibles.

Read more»

Beef 

3/29/07

4:17 PM

The Death of Paid Reservations?

As Eater reported, Weekend Epicure seems to be a scam (we’ve heard the same), and now both Danny Meyer and Keith McNally are on to PrimeTime Tables and the telltale ways in which they call in for the spots they then sell. Is this it for the reservation biz? PTT will surely change up their methods, and we’re guessing that other restaurateurs won’t be quite so aggressive as long as their tables are filled. But blame it on karma or the plain hard realities of business, just know that a seat you buy might not be a seat you actually get.

Commence Resy Scalper Retreat: McNally, Meyer onto Primetime Tables [Eater]
Earlier: Soon You Will Have to Pay for All Your Reservations

The Annotated Dish 

3/28/07

8:55 AM

Morandi’s Deceptively Simple Duck Sandwich

Chef Jody Williams had made her mark as a master of Italian cuisine at Gusto when Keith McNally hired her to run the kitchen at Morandi. Like most of her cooking, this duck sandwich with quince and apple mostarda and green savoy cabbage appears simple and rustic but was created with a great deal of thought and technique. Mouse over the arrows for Jody Williams’s explanation of each ingredient.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

3/21/07

3:00 PM

Callecito Soon to Join Mercadito and Cafecito in the East Village

Brooklyn Heights: Magnetic Field hosts its Jeopardy-inspired booze game tonight. Remember to answer in the form of a slurred question. [Brooklyn Record]
East Village: Callecito, from the owners of Mercadito, will open across the street on Avenue B. (And a block from Cafecito, in case you weren’t confused enough.) [NYS]
Fort Greene: Three pounds of yams, $1. Did we mention they’re jumbo yams? They are. [Gothamist]
Harlem: Emperor’s Roe Champagne-and-caviar bar has closed, and a great pun is soon to be lost to time. [Harlem Fur]
Meatpacking District: The Keith McNally–backed Greenwich Village Society for Historic Preservation will rally tonight to protest the Gansevoort billboards. [Blog Chelsea]
Midtown East: You can now get comfort food in addition to the typical steakhouse fare at Blair Perrone. Assuming you weren’t already comfortable with steak. [NYT]
Park Slope: Brooklyn Pita coming to Seventh Avenue; Delices de Paris bakery reopens after adding mouse-excreta backlash to its list of married-owner woes. [Gowanus Lounge]
Soho: Your prayers answered: Savoy will be doing a special Seder menu. [VV]

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

5:45 PM

Morandi Is On for Lunch: Care to See the Menu?

Or you could just have a liquid lunch.Photo: RJ Mickelson/Veras

Morandi, the love child of Keith McNally and Jody Williams, has started serving lunch. Allow us to show you the menu, which is available from noon until 3 p.m. weekdays (reservations are taken up to one week in advance) and features poached-salmon paninis, saltimbocca, and pollo alla diavola. Good as the food sounds, you may be more excited by the fact that, first, you’ll now be able to score a seat during civilized hours (we just asked for a one o'clock table tomorrow and felt no pain) and, second, the weather is nice enough for them to have thrown open the French doors. Better still: outdoor tables in the summer and brunch coming soon. —Daniel Maurer

Related: Restaurant Openings [NYM]

Mediavore 

3/12/07

10:20 AM

Kitchen Abuse Exposed; Health Department Shutdowns Triple

Apparently, abuse of every kind is rampant in kitchens. Herewith, complaints leveled against Daniel, Jean Georges, Megu, Babbo, and more. [NYP]

Post–KFC–Taco Bell scandal, New York restaurant closures triple. [NYP]

Morandi is, like every other Keith McNally venture, a smashing success, and likely to remain so. [NYP]

Read more»

Mediavore 

3/ 9/07

10:01 AM

Gansevoort Owner Apologizes for Sign He’s Not About to Take Down; FDA Acting Shady

The owner of the Hotel Gansevoort abjectly apologizes for its monstrous sign but says that the lease has been signed and that there’s no way out of it. Whether this satisfies Keith McNally and other opponents remains to be seen. [NYP]

Rachael Ray conquers yet another swath of America, becoming the official “spokes-chef” for Dunkin’ Donuts. She will develop a line of dishes for the chain. [Nation's Restaurant News (registration required)]

The FDA allowing factory farm veterinarians to use cattle antibiotics which may lead to resistant microbes and eventually endanger humans. The Times is not down. [NYT]