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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘le bernardin’

Two for Eight 

7/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit; Le Cirque, Picholine, and Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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Two for Eight 

7/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Cru; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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VideoFeed 

7/ 8/08

1:45 PM

Video: A Summer Fish Grill With Eric Ripert

With the possible exception of the god Neptune, no one has authority over the fishes of the sea like Eric Ripert, the chef at Le Bernardin. Taking over the big grill last week at Harry's at Water Taxi Beach, the Ripper showed us how to cook black bass on a piece of slate. It was a new method to us, but after tasting the results, we'll never grill fish another way again.

Related: What a Grill Wants [NYM]

Engines of Gastronomy 

6/27/08

6:20 PM

Under the Ultraviolet Light, the Crab Cartilage Can't Hide

ultra violet light

Beneath the merciless UV light, the cartilage (bright white, center) is exposed for all to see.Photo: Melissa Hom

A year ago, Eric Ripert saw a kitchen gadget on a French TV show that made him sit up in his chair: an ultraviolet light that allowed restaurants to separate crabmeat from cartilage with surgical precision. “I was like, whoa, I can’t believe it,” exclaims the chef. The very next day he ordered one for Le Bernardin. Line cook Adrian Blatt goes through 20 to 30 blue and peekytoe crabs a night; under the light, the cartilage appears a brighter white than the meat. “We had to break the flesh up much more before, and we could never be sure we were getting all the cartilage,” says Ripert. “Now the lumps are less broken, we get more crab meat, and the chance that you are going to get a little piece of cartilage is much, much smaller.”

NewsFeed 

6/26/08

11:30 AM

Secret Is Out About Uni Butter and Tuna Truffle Sandwiches

Eels

Baby eels, before Eric Ripert gets his hands on them. Photo: Melissa Hom

Some of the “secret dishes” that Page Six Magazine includes in its roundup of off-the-menu items aren’t so secret — we’ve written about Le Bernardin’s piballes, the MacShorty at Shorty’s .32, and the secret items at Le Cirque before —but hey, if you want to impress a date, you could do worse than ordering your steak with uni butter at the Strip House. Just avoid carping, “Adam Sandler and Bruce Willis get theirs this way!” Ew.

"I'll Have What DeNiro's Having": The Most Exclusive Dishes in Town [Page Six Magazine]

User's Guide 

6/25/08

1:30 PM

Premium Proteins of New York

premium proteins

Black sea bass used at Le Bernardin. Photo: Melissa Hom

The days of a restaurant describing its proteins in generic terms — “prime beef,” “tender veal,” etc. — are long gone, banished by the small-farm sensibility, the Haute Barnyard movement, and the pride of a thousand restaurants that go to the trouble to let you know just where your proteins are coming from. Watch the slideshow to learn sourcing secrets from some top New York chefs.

Slideshow: Premium Proteins

Two for Eight 

6/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine; Bar Boulud and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Mediavore 

6/23/08

10:00 AM

Starbucks Brings Back Bold Flavors; Beer Kitchen Caters Brewski-Soaked Events

• Starbucks is bringing back bolder blends of coffee for those customers who enjoy that robust/burnt taste so much. [WSJ]

• Is it possible to have a four-star restaurant without a dress code? According to Le Bernardin’s maître d’, “We don’t think so.” [Amateur Gourmet]

• The Corn Refiners Association, a Washington trade group, would like you to buy their claim that high-fructose corn syrup isn’t any worse for you than sugar. [WSJ]

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NewsFeed 

6/20/08

4:30 PM

Eric Ripert and Friends Cook for Tibet

tibet benefit chefs

From left, Alfredo Ayala, Eric Ripert, Yosuke Suga, Michel Richard, and Jennie Lorenzo.Photo: Lyn Hughes

Eric Ripert is so devoted to Tibet that he even went to India to say hello to the Dalai Lama. And last night, the Ripper devoted the formidable resources of Le Bernardin’s private dining salon to a benefit for the Tibetan Aid Project. Five of the country’s top chefs cooked five courses: Michel Richard, whose Central in D.C. just won the Beard Award for Best New Restaurant, made a mind-blowing lobster-pear vichyssoise; Yosuke Suga from the Atelier de Joël Robuchon prepared pan-sautéed amadai in a yuzu-citrus broth; Jennie Lorenzo of the Fifth Floor in San Francisco served a sous vide chicken and langoustine pair; Ripert made his magnificent escolar with red-wine béarnaise sauce (still the greatest fish known to man, even if it does supposedly cause orange diarrhea); Alfredo Ayala of Delirio restaurant in Puerto Rico brought a roasted pork loin; and Le Bernardin’s sweets guy, Michael Laiskonis, closed with Gianduja cream, Oregon hazelnuts, honey, banana, and brown-butter ice cream. Prior to the meal, all five chefs were presented by the Tibetan Aid Society with Tibetan shawls, a traditional form of thanks, and posed proudly with them in the kitchen. The benefit raised an undisclosed bundle for the cause of buying sacred books for Tibet, and there were no empty seats. Next year, in fact, Ripert plans to close the whole restaurant down and do it in the main room.

Related: Eric Ripert Hobnobs With the Dalai Lama

Two for Eight 

6/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Picholine; Balthazar and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

6/ 5/08

4:20 PM

Eric Ripert Launches Blog With Ode to Toaster-ovens

When Eric Ripert told us that he was starting his own Website, Avec Eric, we knew it wouldn't be full of random woolgathering like some other chef blogs. Though only two posts in, the Ripper already has a laserlike focus on one subject: toaster-ovens. While it will no doubt become a more traditional chef site, right now the Le Bernardin chef is devoted to exploring the use and greatness of toasters. And why not? After all, when you think of Eric Ripert, you just think of toaster-ovens.

Avec Eric [Official site]
Related: Paul Liebrandt Stuns Web With Most Banal Blog Ever

NewsFeed 

5/28/08

10:50 AM

Le Bernardin’s Aldo Sohm Wins World Sommelier Contest

Aldo Sohm

Aldo Sohm had his eyes on the prize for a year.Photo courtesy Le Bernardin

Aldo Sohm, the good-natured wine director at Le Bernardin, is the best sommelier in the world. Last year, Sohm bested all his American rivals, but faltered in the international competition. The contest, which was held in Rome, involved a wine-recognition test, a flawed wine list needing correcting, table service, and a food-and-wine pairing. This year, he bested rivals from thirteen other nations to be named “Best Sommelier in the World.”

Update: The Ripper chimes in on Sohn's win: “Of course this is a very big deal for Aldo and Le Bernardin,” says the Le Bernardin's chef. “What is truly impressive and makes Aldo even more of a champion is that he accomplished this enormous task while working full time as our wine director, never taking off one day to study or prepare.”

Related: Le Bernardin Lands the ‘Best Sommelier in America’

Mediavore 

5/23/08

10:00 AM

Sam Talbot Finally Has a Menu Ready; Cosmo’s Popularity Not Fading

• Former Top Chef contestant Sam Talbot has put together his menu for the Surf Club in Montauk, and it includes his lobster rolls as well as fish sticks for $22. [Gridskipper]

• Celebrities own a variety of mostly bad restaurants and clubs. [amNY]

• In case you hadn’t already heard, there’s this pizza place called Artichoke and it’s really popular. [Villager]
Related: Passion For Pizza

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Neighborhood Watch 

5/19/08

3:05 PM

Ko to Serve Lunch?; Bar Carrera's Expansion Complete

East Village: There's a chance, however slim, that Ko could start serving lunch, thereby doubling its available weekly covers. [Eater] Bar Carrera has actually expanded and taken over the deli space next door, though for bodega lovers this isn't necessarily a good thing. [Jeremiah's Vanishing New York via Eater]
Lower East Side: If Kampuchea's good reviews don't lure you in, its open windows will now that the weather's warming up. [Gothamist]
Nolita: From a tipster: Josh Hartnett hosted a private party at the Randolph Friday. [Grub Street]
Times Square: Illi chef-owner Philippe Massoud's most memorable meal was at Le Bernardin, in the eighties. [Diner's Journal/NYT]
West Village: The FDNY was poking around Beatrice Inn Friday and stayed for a while. It's starting to sound like New York's Bravest are just trying to bypass the line. [Down by the Hipster]

Two for Eight 

5/14/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Daniel and Etats-Uni; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/14/08

2:15 PM

OpenTable Attempts to Eliminate Shilling

opentable
The temptation to give their own places sky-high ratings has proven irresistible to many a restaurant owner — it’s like asking a portly, middle-aged man not to describe himself as "37" and "athletic" in an Internet personal ad. But according to tech blog Techcrunch, OpenTable's new Diners' Choice lists incorporate ratings only from people who actually made resies and showed up. The lists aren’t touted on the site yet, but being Internet geniuses, we found the beta version and the top five NYC picks: Per Se, Le Bernardin, Gilt, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and Eleven Madison Park. It does say something that people who actually plunked down cash at these places had good things to say about them afterwards.

OpenTable Ranks Restaurants, Guarantees No Fake Reviews [TechCrunch]

NewsFeed 

5/ 2/08

10:45 AM

Denver Writer Pens Longing Love Letter to Le Bernardin

Anytime you want to fly over...Photo: Josh Ozersky

If you want to feel good about living in New York, read this approximately 19,000-word essay about a pilgrimage made to Le Bernardin by a Denver food writer. There are so many levels to enjoy in this one. There's the fact that the writer, Jason Sheehan, has written the most sustained and rapturous ode to a restaurant we can remember. Then there's the part about the citizens of Denver outraged at not being able to enjoy a vicarious thrill when Sheehan lets it be known that he won't be dining at the place. (“I could hear the screams of pain and sobbing disappointment from Denver’s top-fuel foodies. I got letters from friends. I got phone calls from horrified fans. I got e-mails from other critics and chefs and civilians who were simply flabbergasted.”) Best of all are Sheehan's efforts to honestly grapple with how to convey the pleasure he had from the five-star fish emporium. It's not like we get to Le Bernardin that much, either — the last time we ate The Ripper's cooking, it was a take-out container of baby eels.

Dinner at Le Bernardin [Denver Westward, via Fork in the Road]

Related: Le Bernardin's VIPs Get Baby Eels

NewsFeed 

4/29/08

2:00 PM

Samuelsson and Ripert Sell New York to the Tourists

morimoto

Samuelsson happens to like Aquavit.Photo: Getty Images

The last wave of “Just Ask the Locals” tourism ads featured Danny Meyer, and this time around the city has selected chefs Eric Ripert and Marcus Samuelsson — along with Diddy! — to dish on their favorite spots. Ripert give props to the wood-burning oven at Peasant — “absolutely fantastic” — while Samuelsson fingers Aquavit (for shame!), as well as Jean Georges, Luger, Republic, and wd-50. For late-night eats, he's all about Blue Ribbon Brasserie, Florent (despite its imminent demise), the Spotted Pig, and “anywhere in Chinatown” — although, except for Wo Hop and Noodletown, places in C-town tend to close on the early side. So if you see confused tourists wandering the darkened streets of Chinatown or attempting to gain entry into a shuttered Florent, you know whom to blame.

Just Ask the Locals [NYC Visit]

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Two for Eight 

4/28/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine and Cru; Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/22/08

9:00 AM

World's Best Restaurant List Released, and Europe Reigns, Again

Why should we care what the San Pellegrino company thinks are the world's 50 best restaurants? And yet, as with Michelin, Zagat, and every other ranking, we always do. San Pellegrino's angle is that they rank the top restaurants worldwide, thus awaking nationalist fury in every slighted country. (The list is determined by a global poll of chefs, restaurateurs, and food writers.) Which, as usual, means every country other than Spain, since again El Bulli has come out on top, followed by England's the Fat Duck, France's Pierre Gagnaire, and another Spanish entry, Mugaritz. But — a consolation to the U.S. — next on the list come back-to-back Americans: the French Laundry and Per Se. After that, the U.S. falls off the list until Jean Georges at 17, Le Bernardin at 18, and Chicago's Alinea at 21. No doubt the list has a major snob appeal and will make a fine to-do list for international bons vivants.

El Bulli Named World's Best Restaurant; Per Se, Noma Advance [Bloomberg]

NewsFeed 

4/18/08

3:11 PM

Le Bernardin's VIPs Get Baby Eels

Eels

Baby eels, before Eric Ripert gets his hands on them. Photo: Melissa Hom

We got an excited call from Eric Ripert the other day. "I have baby eels!" the chef said. "You have to try them!" We weren't exactly thrilled at the prospect. But the Ripper assured us that baby eels were the rarest of delicacies — live, translucent creatures with an ungodly flavor.

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Two for Eight 

4/10/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Café des Artistes and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/ 2/08

4:20 PM

Ripert Admits Organic Doesn’t Always Mean Tasty

No less a personage than Eric Ripert spilled the beans on the great unspoken secret of the organic movement: A lot of the food tastes bad. Speaking to an audience of trendsetters at the PSFK New York conference last week, the Le Bernardin chef said, “Organic and sustainable doesn’t mean that your product is good. An organic cheese ten years ago was inedible, like rubber.” Of course, the Ripper also said that with technology on the march, sustainable food will soon be as good as it is virtuous. But it isn’t yet, not always; and only a man of the Ripper’s caliber could get away with saying so in public.

Ripert: Good Food Will Eventually Taste Good [PSFK]

Two for Eight 

3/25/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Fleur de Sel; Le Cirque and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/24/08

3:25 PM

Eric Ripert Hobnobs With the Dalai Lama

Over at her blog, Insatiable Gourmet, our own Gael Greene delivers news of Eric Ripert’s pilgrimage to India to meet with his holiness, the Dalai Lama. Yes, as Carl Spackler says in Caddyshack, “the Dalai Lama, himself. Twelfth son of the Lama. The flowing robes, the grace, bald … striking.” But did the Ripper get, you know, a little something for the effort? Even if it’s just total consciousness when he dies? Apparently not. While Ripert did get to hear the Lama speak, the chef's plan to train the refugees who run the Norbulingka Institute in India, which was founded by the Lama to preserve Tibetan culture, has run aground on the rocks of Sino-Tibetan political strife. Ripert had hoped to start a foundation to send American chefs there, but that's on hold for the moment, as you might expect. Ripert, we are happy to report, is back safe and sound at his post at Le Bernardin.

Short Order [Insatiable Critic]

Two for Eight 

3/ 7/08

4:00 PM

Le Cirque and Picholine Mostly Booked; Le Bernardin Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

2/20/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at La Grenouille and Café des Artistes; Balthazar Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Mediavore 

2/14/08

10:00 AM

Eric Ripert Defends Escolar; Ed Koch: Bib Wearer

Radar ran a story on escolar’s tendency to cause leaky bowel movements and mentioned that the fish was served at Le Bernardin. This, in turn, prompted a response from Eric Ripert himself, which prompted the author of the article to respond, “I’m sure Eric Ripert serves his escolar in such a way that it doesn’t make people shit orange oil. He’s good like that.” [Fresh Intelligence/Radar]

Chef Craig Hopson says the ghost of Aaron Burr haunts the kitchen of One if by Land, Two if by Sea and has a tendency to steal batches of brioche. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]
Related: One if by Land Breaks Out a Bar Menu, and Not a Minute Too Soon

Katrina Markoff, founder of Vosges Haut-Chocolat, likes to pair her company’s bacon-laden chocolate bar with pieces of Gruyère and a glass of Shiraz. [WSJ]
Related: A Bacon Tribute Product We Can Get Behind

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Two for Eight 

1/18/08

4:00 PM

Balthazar and Le Bernardin Fully Booked; Picholine Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

Read more»

The New York Diet 

1/18/08

9:00 AM

Chef Eric Ripert Starts the Day With Chocolate, Ends It With Chorizo and Tequila

Eric Ripert

Eric Ripert in serrano heaven.Photo: Dorothy Hong

There’s a reason Le Bernardin was ranked No. 1 (one of just two five-star restaurants) in the Platt 101. During lunch and dinner every day, chef-owner Eric Ripert samples a half-spoon of each of the twenty-odd sauces his chefs prepare, tests most of the mise en place (everything from string beans to mashed potatoes to polenta to guacamole), and then takes bites from dishes before they go out to the dining room. “Every day I have ten different fishes — a piece of tuna, snapper, monk, cod, himachi … It’s about 60 or 80 things I try.” To make up for this, he tries to eat light and takes 45-minute walks to (and sometimes back) from work through Central Park. But that doesn’t mean he won’t indulge in his daily breakfast chocolate.

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Mediavore 

1/11/08

10:20 AM

Sign On to FohBoh; Stay Dry at Death & Co.

There’s a new social-networking site for members of the restaurant industry called FohBoh, but if you’re not an industry insider, you can enjoy the forums, blogs, and videos on all aspects of food. [Red Herring via The Grinder/Chow]

Le Bernadin’s Eric Ripert will open a new restaurant called 10 Arts at the Philadelphia Ritz-Carlton this spring. [Zagat Buzz]

A lot of people may be freaking out over the FDA’s approval of meat and milk from cloned livestock for consumption, but cloned food products have been in the food supply for some time. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Related: FDA to Beef Industry: Send in the Clones

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Two for Eight 

1/ 3/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

12/20/07

1:33 PM

Eric Ripert Builds a Perfect Burger — But You Can't Eat It

Having conquered the oceanic sphere, the Ripper is on burgers now.Photo: Josh Ozersky

When you think of Eric Ripert, you tend to think of ethereal lobster, marinated fluke, transporting escolar with miso brown butter, and the like. Which made it weird when the chef started enthusing about his hamburger the other night. “It's the best hamburger anywhere — better than anywhere in New York,” the fish master says.

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