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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘le cirque’

Two for Eight 

7/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit; Le Cirque, Picholine, and Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

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Mediavore 

7/16/08

10:00 AM

Franklin Becker to Replace Gary Robins at Sheridan Square; Octopus Abounds on Menus

• Franklin Becker is replacing Gary Robins at Sheridan Square. According to the PR firm, “Franklin will change the menu slowly and keep anything that has become a signature item.” [Eater]
Related: Breaking: Gary Robins Out at Sheridan Square

Union Square Cafe, Fleur de Sel, and Le Cirque will keep their Restaurant Week special deals in place even after the citywide promotion ends. [Zagat Buzz]
Related: Summer Restaurant Week Brings Back a Chance to Steal a Meal

• Now that chefs know how to actually cook octopus, it’s becoming more and more popular with diners. [NYP]

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Neighborhood Watch 

7/10/08

3:00 PM

Alain Allegretti to Possibly Open New Restaurant; Rayuela’s Street-Food Spot Opens Tonight

Astoria: Fresh Start Market is hosting a fund-raiser Saturday night for a cleft-lip-surgery charity and will have wine, cheese, and live music. [Joey in Astoria]
East Flatbush: "Cool people" like Andrew Feinberg, of Franny’s, opt for the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket on Saturdays to pick up supplies from Ronnybrook Dairy and Blue Moon Trout. But it's not really shocking, since Franny's is in Brooklyn. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Flatiron: Former Le Cirque chef Alain Allegretti may be opening an eponymous restaurant on 22nd Street, off Fifth Avenue, as soon as this month. [Snack]
Lower East Side: The Rayuela team unveils its Latin-street-food spot, Macondo, on East Houston Street tonight, and they have funky cocktails on the menu like a frozen avocado-and-mescal colada. [Strong Buzz]
Midtown East: Zen Burger's now serving a few more vegetarian versions of McDonald's standards, including an off-menu Filet-O-Fish. [Midtown Lunch]
Union Square: The Village Pourhouse's owners have opened SideBar, their latest boozy pub in a line of many more to come across town. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]
West Village: When you order the Spotted Pig's burger naked (without blue cheese), "the thing truly does taste like steak on a bun." [Hamburger Today]

User's Guide 

7/ 9/08

5:18 PM

Five Chef Families

In the beginning (or around 1941), Henri Soule created Le Pavillon. Le Pavillon begat La Côte Basque … and the New York restaurant genealogy began. Ever since, every restaurant that attains prominence in New York serves as a feeder system: A chef makes his bones and leaves to open his own effort, and his chef de cuisine rises to chef; the sous becomes chef de cuisine, and so on down the ranks. In this way spreads the great New York family tree of restaurants. Some are oaks mighty enough to support several branches; others more closely resemble saplings from A Charlie Brown Christmas.

We’ve created our own set of chef family trees here, charting the stars that emerged from four of New York’s best restaurants, Le Cirque, Daniel, Jean-Georges, and Craft, plus the now-closed-but influential 71 Clinton Fresh Food. Given the popularity of cocktail bars, we also looked to see what Pegu hath wrought. Chefs (or mixologists) on the tree must be currently heading their own kitchen (or, as in the case of Johnny Iuzzini, a pastry kitchen). Welcome to the triple-canopy jungle that is the New York restaurant scene.

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Two for Eight 

7/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Cru; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

6/26/08

11:30 AM

Secret Is Out About Uni Butter and Tuna Truffle Sandwiches

Eels

Baby eels, before Eric Ripert gets his hands on them. Photo: Melissa Hom

Some of the “secret dishes” that Page Six Magazine includes in its roundup of off-the-menu items aren’t so secret — we’ve written about Le Bernardin’s piballes, the MacShorty at Shorty’s .32, and the secret items at Le Cirque before —but hey, if you want to impress a date, you could do worse than ordering your steak with uni butter at the Strip House. Just avoid carping, “Adam Sandler and Bruce Willis get theirs this way!” Ew.

"I'll Have What DeNiro's Having": The Most Exclusive Dishes in Town [Page Six Magazine]

Two for Eight 

6/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine; Bar Boulud and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

6/ 9/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Benoit and Picholine; Balthazar and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Mediavore 

6/ 4/08

10:00 AM

‘Daily Show’ Writer Sues Batali; Ex-Babbo Sommelier Cooks for You

• A former Daily Show writer who was hired to work on a book to accompany PBS’ forthcoming Spain…on the Road Again butted heads with Mario Batali over the project and is now suing the series producer’s company. [NYS]

• Jeffrey Chodorow’s lounge atop the Empire Hotel opens this week, but the pool is open to hotel guests only. [TONY]
Related: Poolside Bar Set to Open Atop Empire Hotel

Le Cirque’s former chef de cuisine, Jason Kallert, has thrown Friars Club regulars for a loop with his highbrow creations, even if some courses are “vaguely dated.” [Feed/TONY]
Related: Le Cirque Loses Its Young Chef De Cuisine to the Friars Club

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The Other Critics 

6/ 4/08

9:30 AM

Elettaria Comes Up Short; Bar Milano Does Too, But Somehow Gets Three Stars

The room looks great and (some) of chef Akthar Nawab's food was great, says Frank Bruni in his one-star review of Elettaria. But both falter for Bruni, who has problems with the way the space flows, and who finds the dishes ranging wildly from brilliant to total letdowns. [NYT]
Related: Restaurant Tour: Elettaria

Restaurant Girl lays three stars on Bar Milano, despite the fact that the pastas are mostly lousy, and the noise is “unbearable.” Except for that, it's great! [NYDN]

Randall Lane didn't even order any pasta but still thought the place worthy of only three stars out of six, with pushy servers and underwhelming meat dishes. [TONY]

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NewsFeed 

5/27/08

5:15 PM

Le Cirque Loses Its Young Chef De Cuisine to the Friars Club

jason kallert

Jason Kallert at the Friars Club. Not shown: London
Lee, Freddie Roman…Photo courtesy the Friars Club

Le Cirque chef de cuisine (and former Chefwatch alumnus) Jason Kallert has made the jump into an executive-chef job of his own: running the kitchen at the Friars Club. Wait, the Friars Club? The last time we were there, the place was so heavy on deli food that even the Chinese roast-pork sandwich came with a pickle. But management is looking to modernize the comedy fraternity, and a new chef is just part of the plan. “We have a lot of younger members, more than people think,” newly installed executive director Michael Gyure, tells us. “Fifty percent are less than 45 years old.” Roast standouts Jeff Roth and Lisa Lampanelli are representative of this dynamic younger generation, Gyure says.

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Back of the House 

5/15/08

3:30 PM

Defeated Cheftestant Just Wants to Help Fat Cops

alcohol

Andrew can make anything look demented.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo

Last night on Top Chef, a healthy-cooking challenge for Chicago cops produced some of the worst dishes ever seen on the show. Lisa’s stir-fry was anything but that, and Spike managed to scrape by in spite of a thoughtless chicken salad containing olives and grapes. Still, it was the ever-energetic Andrew who was sent home for his bewilderingly riceless sushi. Michael Alan Connelly spoke to him this morning about hanging out with Spike and culinary boners.

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Two for Eight 

5/14/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Daniel and Etats-Uni; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

4/28/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Picholine and Cru; Gordon Ramsay at the London Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/22/08

1:15 PM

Maccioni Family to Open New Restaurant in Beekman Tower

mauro maccioni

Mauro Maccioni takes the lead.Photo: Patrick McMullan

There’s about to be a new addition to the Le Cirque family. Sirio scion Mauro will head a Maccioni-family restaurant in the Beekman Tower, on Mitchell Place. “We haven’t signed yet, but we’re very close,” Maccioni says. The family will run the restaurant, but Beekman Tower will front the costs, he adds — "which is always preferable from the restaurant’s point of view." As for the concept, “we are either leaning toward an Italian restaurant emphasizing on the cuisine of Tuscany or an Italian-seafood restaurant emulating what some of the Greek estiatorios are doing, but with an Italian twist — grilled fish and seafood pastas.” The restaurant should open in early 2009 and will also include a high-floor bar with a commanding view. Nor is that the only project in the works — Mauro also confides that the Maccionis are about to do a big Italian restaurant in Vegas, at CityCenter in the new MGM.

Two for Eight 

4/10/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Café des Artistes and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

3/25/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Fleur de Sel; Le Cirque and Le Bernardin Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

3/10/08

1:44 PM

Le Cirque Gets on the Wine-Bar Bandwagon

le cirque wine lounge

Just stop by Le Cirque and chill out. Really?Photo: Melissa Hom

As the fashion for haute cuisine falls away, the more casual wine bar has become a kind of economic savior for the city's classic high-end chefs — one reason, as we noted in our Fall Preview year, the likes of Daniel Boulud and Alain Ducasse have embraced the genre wholeheartedly. (It's easier to lure customers into wine bars, and wine is a much higher-profit item than food.) Now Le Cirque has gotten into the act, opening its new wine bar tonight. Says the restaurant’s legendary owner, Sirio Maccioni: “Our new wine lounge is a more casual side of Le Cirque, with chaise longues and where no jackets are required. We wanted to offer something, in our lounge, without all the rigueur of the dining room.” The centerpiece of the wine bar is an immense wine tower, with, according to Maccioni, “20,000 bottles of wine and the right menu to go with it.” Somehow it just doesn’t seem right to go to Le Cirque without a jacket, though — no matter how many bottles of wine they have.

Le Cirque wine-bar menu

Related: Grape Nuts [NYM]

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Two for Eight 

3/ 7/08

4:00 PM

Le Cirque and Picholine Mostly Booked; Le Bernardin Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

Chefwatch 

2/27/08

9:00 AM

Jason Kallert Carries the Le Cirque Torch

A rock-solid classicist, no fan of "crazy Asian flavors."Photo: Melissa Hom

Each week, we highlight one of the city’s great — but obscure — young chefs.

Name: Jason Kallert

Age: 29

Restaurant: Le Cirque

Background: Kallert is a CIA graduate who, after time spent under the late Patrick Clark at Tavern on the Green and Union Pacific with Rocco DiSpirito, began a long association with Le Cirque, outlasting three executive chefs: Sottha Kuhnn at the original Le Cirque, Pierre Schaedelin at Le Cirque 2000 and the current iteration of the restaurant, and his replacement, Christophe Bellanca.

Self-described style: “Very simple and traditional. I’m not into too much technical stuff or using crazy Asian flavors and herbs. If garlic and thyme goes with lamb, I use garlic and thyme. I’m not as creative as some chefs. I like a classic approach.”

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Two for Eight 

2/20/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at La Grenouille and Café des Artistes; Balthazar Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

2/12/08

10:41 AM

Momofuku Ko Hoping to Open in Two Weeks; No Malice Palace Prevails

During last night's CB3 meeting, partner Andrew Salmon would reveal only that Momofuku Ko will hit capacity at fourteen, with no waiters and with fixed menus changing daily. “You sit directly across from the cook,” Salmon told the board. He kept the “vaguely Asian” food quiet, conceding only that it would include “all local ingredients … all sustainable development.” Unfortunately, he didn’t take the time to make sure a petition was including in the application, so no motion could be passed. Projected opening date: two weeks' time!

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Celebrity Settings 

2/12/08

9:00 AM

Kobe Dines on Kobe at Kobe; Nobu Gives Manning a Standing O

Fashion Week brought the usual celebrity infestation to town last week for glitzy after-parties, but we’ve already covered those. The real question is, where did the “normals” catch a bite? And of course by normals we mean billionaires, Nobel Prize winners, and Super Bowl champs, all of whom made the scene this week.

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NewsFeed 

2/11/08

12:00 PM

Sirio Speaks Out on That Guy From the ‘Times’ … What Did You Say His Name Was?

Sirio Maccioni

The scent of a lost star was still in Sirio's nostrils when interviewed.Photo: Melissa Hom

There’s an entertaining and incisive interview with Le Cirque's Sirio Maccioni at Portfolio today. Lloyd Grove presses the great man on his feelings about the New York Times critic ("Frank Bruni, if that's his name"), the firing of chef Pierre Schaedelin ("Pierre could have stayed"), and what it takes to make a restaurant work on that level in New York ("Here you need to do a minimum of $12 million a year. Otherwise we are broke"). The interview was done before the Times restored the restaurant's third star, so there's a lot of fire there. Things seem to be better now: We stopped in the other night, and Sirio's son Mario told us that after the review, “My father didn't yell at anybody for four days.”

World According To…Sirio Maccioni [Portfolio via Gawker]

The Other Critics 

2/ 6/08

11:00 AM

Le Cirque Back in the Three-Star Club; It’s La Belle Epoque Again at Adour

Who says Frank Bruni has no heart? After demoting Le Cirque last year, Bruni restores the third star, courtesy largely to new chef Christophe Bellanca’s masterly handling of ultraluxe ingredients and, of course, the Maccioni family’s trademark feudal service. [NYT]

Maybe you don’t consider the salmon at Dovetail “a religious experience,” the way Restaurant Girl does, but everyone seems to agree with Adam Platt that it’s a very fine restaurant and outrageously good for the Upper West Side. [NYDN]
Related: This Dove Flies

Ryan Sutton has filed the first review of Adour, and he makes it sound, at least to anachronistically minded readers, truly awesome. Did you know Adour is serving lobster thermidor? Lobster thermidor! In this day and age! Sutton is also impressed by the virtual wine list, as most other visitors have been. [Bloomberg]

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Mediavore 

1/29/08

10:00 AM

Freedom Tower Seeks Restaurant Developer; Le Cirque Does Restaurant Week All Month

Starting today, the Port Authority is accepting early bids from developers for control of a two-story restaurant atop the Freedom Tower, with a grand opening slated for early 2013. [The Real Estate/NYO]

More bad news about the FDA: It’s “so understaffed that, at its current pace, the agency would need at least 27 years to inspect every foreign medical device plant that exports to the United States, 13 years to check every foreign drug plant and 1,900 years to examine every foreign food plant.” [NYT]

Le Cirque’s Restaurant Week menus are such a hit that the Maccioni clan is going to make them available every weekday in February. [Zagat]

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Mediavore 

1/28/08

10:00 AM

Michael ‘Bao’ Huynh Out at Bun; A Le Cirque Documentary

Michael “Bao” Huynh has left his post at Bun, saying he couldn’t get along with his partner. Next up: a new noodle shop in Tribeca. [Insatiable Critic]

Burgerphilia: a new term about burger obsessives we won’t be using. [Time]
Related: Daniel Boulud’s Downtown Burger Place Finally Signs the Lease

A Table in Heaven, a documentary that looks at Le Cirque’s move from the Palace Hotel to the Bloomberg building, was screened at the Sundance Film Festival and promises to show Sirio Maccioni’s tendency to exceed the restaurant’s 2 percent cap on free meals. [NYDN]

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Mediavore 

1/22/08

10:00 AM

City to Reenact Calorie-Display Rule; Bloodbath Near Spotlight Live

The city’s Board of Health is set to reenact its legally contested rule requiring all restaurants with fifteen or more eateries nationwide to post the caloric value of food items on their menus. [NYDN]
Related: Fast-Food Biz Wins Fight Against City Hall

Restaurants and nightclubs currently owe the city $14 million in health-code violation fines, which means that high-roller venues like the Rainbow Room can get away with stiffing the city out of $50. [NYP]

Times Square’s Spotlight Live became the latest scene of club violence when one man was killed and five others stabbed there yesterday morning. [NYDN]

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Two for Eight 

1/18/08

4:00 PM

Balthazar and Le Bernardin Fully Booked; Picholine Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French Cuisine.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

1/ 3/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Cru and Picholine; Gordon Ramsay Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet French cuisine.

Read more»