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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘marco canora’

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

1:45 PM

David Chang Gets a Bit More Media Exposure on ‘Charlie Rose’

david chang

Chang and Rose get deeper than Springer's Final
Thought.Photo courtesy Serious Eats

David Chang had a long, long interview on Charlie Rose last night, and, for fans of the Momofuku man, it was pure gold. He confirmed that something for Vegas is in the works and, naturally, delivered his standard lines about taking his celebrity “with a grain of salt” and complimenting the chefs he learned from, like Andrew Carmellini, Marco Canora, and Jonathan Benno. But over the course of the long interview, all of which is conveniently lined up for you on Serious Eats, we also found out some other key pieces of information.

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Back of the House 

3/ 6/08

2:00 PM

Dr. Vino Brings First View of Wine Madhouse Terroir

terroir

Inside the mind of a madman.Photo courtesy Dr. Vino

Dr. Vino, one of our favorite wine blogs, drops the first images of the newly opened Terroir today. The wine bar owned by Marco Canora and Paul Grieco opened last night, and to judge by the pictures, it hit the ground running. As expected, the place reflects Grieco’s precarious sanity. Writes Dr. Vino: “The wine list is in a three-ring binder, which the designer described to me as being like the school notebook of ‘a 16 year-old boy’s whose obsession is not with cars or girls but obscure grape varieties,’ including one with Aglianico written on it multiple times.” Just wait til they look in the crawlspace!

Hipster wine bar, Terroir, now open! Wine by the glass starts at $2.75 [Dr. Vino]

Related: What You'll Eat and Drink at Terroir

Back of the House 

3/ 5/08

2:45 PM

Adam Platt on Best of New York: “It's a Matter of Taste, Cutty!”

Breakfast
Having pawed and pondered this week's Best of New York issue endlessly, we knew that the only way we could possibly make up our minds about it was to pester Adam Platt into giving us his thoughts on why he made his picks, who he had to leave out, and what his reasoning was. Since Platt is always readily available on IM, the following chat answered our questions and made our peace with his picks.

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Mediavore 

2/27/08

10:00 AM

Charlie Trotter Details Emerge; Frank Bruni's Cross-Country Trip

The first details on Charlie Trotter’s still-unnamed restaurant on Madison Square Park emerge: It will have 80 seats as well as a bar and lounge. [NYT]

Merkato 55 may be turning New Yorkers on to African cuisine, but there have been plenty of excellent, albeit under-the-radar, restaurants offering the continent’s cuisine for years. [TONY]
Related: Merkato 55’s Most Popular Dish: Doro Wat

The Modern’s new wine director, Belinda Chang, is the kind of sommelier we want to be someday: “I’m definitely obsessed with magnums. They’re so fun to pour!” [NYS]

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NewsFeed 

2/26/08

3:30 PM

What You'll Eat and Drink at Terroir

Paul Grieco: only getting crazier.Photo courtesy Insieme

After reading Rob and Robin's opening this week, we can't wait to visit Terroir when it opens this weekend (or Monday, if there’s a last-minute construction problem). But what awaits us there? We reached out to the new wine bar’s guiding spirit, Paul Grieco, to see if he could get us a sneak preview of the menu, and possibly a hint of what he had in mind for his wine program. Grieco delivered both — the latter in spades.

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Back of the House 

2/25/08

5:00 PM

Global Warming Endangers Black Truffles; Gourmands Despair at God’s Indifference to Suffering

Gather your black truffles while ye may...Photo: AFP/ Getty Images

We had a good bit of sport over the astronomical prices paid this past summer for white truffles in New York restaurants. But what if their black cousins, long the déclassé branch of the family, became even more expensive? Or disappeared entirely? That wouldn’t be so funny. And it wouldn’t be good for the price of white truffles, which, like Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup, could become a purely plutocratic pleasure sooner than we expected. (Not that truffles are evil in the way of Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup; we’re just thinking of endangered luxury foods, you understand.) An article in USA Today suggests that the global warming is currently bringing the hammer down on black-truffle production and that (gasp) “France's black truffle will one day be just a memory.” It’s a similar story around the world, as fish stocks are depleted, ecosystems are knocked out of whack, and global demand for things like toro and truffles move beyond a small cluster of ascot-wearing bons vivants.

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In the Magazine 

2/25/08

9:30 AM

This Week: New Fusion, New Coffee, Repurposed Water

Miranda

Latin American-Italian fusion at Miranda in Williamsburg.Photo: Nick Atlas

The city’s newest food-fusion trend is Latin American and Italian cuisines, says the Underground Gourmet in this week’s magazine. Miranda in Williamsburg and Matilda in the East Village are leading the charge, and Rob and Robin alternate between calling it “Mex-Italian” and “Tusc-Mex.” (Our pick: “Mexcellente.”) Outside of our regular reading route, Intel has a dishy item about David Bouley — apparently, his Tribeca neighbors aren’t so thrilled about his proposed Brushstrokes restaurant. Back in the food section, it’s a difficult time of year for the Greenmarket, but that doesn’t deter Damon Wise at Craft for offering up this week’s “In Season” recipe: pan-roasted salsify. Gael Greene visits Smokin’ Q on the Upper East Side this week and enjoys the ribs and the thin-cut fries, though she could do without the owner’s jokes. Rob and Robin introduce us to three new restaurants this week, and we can’t wait to visit Terroir, the latest from Marco Canora and Paul Grieco. Also in “Openings”: an East Village coffee bar co-owned by Sasha Petraske and a new burger spot in the financial district. If a recession breeds good $4 burgers, it can’t be that bad. Finally, if you want to reduce bottled-water waste, we found four restaurants with a DIY approach to filtration and carbonation.

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Chefwatch 

2/ 6/08

12:30 PM

Jordan Frosolone Tends Hearth Every Night

Jordan Frosolone: Marco Canora's alter ego (for now).Photo: Melissa Hom

Each week, we'll be highlighting one of the great but obscure young chefs who are actually running one of the city's major restaurants. .

Name: Jordan Frosolone

Age: 31

Restaurant: Hearth

Background: Forsolone, a native Chicagoan, put in time at Coco Pazzo, Blackbird, and Nomi, before hitting Italy for a year of heavy duty in Florence and Umbria. He then started in as a line cook for the famously demanding Marco Canora, at Hearth. When Canora went uptown to open Insieme, Forsolone was promoted to chef de cuisine and given the keys to Hearth.

Self-described Style: “I’m definitely in love with the greenmarket. Focused and balanced Italian and southern French.”

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Engines of Gastronomy 

1/11/08

5:15 PM

At Insieme, Marco Canora Makes Pasta Like It’s 1875

Insieme's crank yankers.Photo: Brian Kennedy

In the wonderful world of pasta, there is the fresh (usually made with eggs and rolled-out), and there is the dried (usually eggless and extruded). And then there is the unusual hybrid of sorts that Marco Canora has recently introduced on his Insieme menu. While surfing the Web, as all blog-obsessed chefs are wont to do, Canora discovered an old Venetian–style hand-cranked pasta extruder known as the Bigolaro, a.k.a. the Torchio, and if he had his doubts about its decidedly low-tech looks, the price, at $280, was right. The rustic gadget, which was patented in 1875, clamps on to any sturdy tabletop, and although it requires the strength of two Greco–Roman wrestlers to operate, the results are worth the effort.

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Ask a Waiter 

11/27/07

5:18 PM

Nelson Hernandez of Insieme Is Waiting Out the Broadway Strike, Liquor Board

Nelson Hernandez

Nelson Hernandez will upsell you a white truffle in a flash.Photo: Melissa Hom

Nelson Hernandez was a teacher for ten years before he decided he’d rather make art than teach it. He now performs around town as a singer-songwriter and pays the rent by waiting tables at Marco Canora’s joint Insieme. Since Insieme is located directly across from the darkened Winter Garden, we thought Hernandez might be just the person to tell us what the scene has been lately at a restaurant that caters both to theatergoing tourists and to homegrown aficionados of contemporary Italian cuisine.

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Mediavore 

11/26/07

10:00 AM

Theater-District Restaurants May Lay Off Workers; Where the Chefs Go

After three weeks of declining customers, theater-district restaurants fear layoffs. [NYP]
Related: Theater Strike Could Drop Curtain on Midtown Restaurants

Chefs including Tom Colicchio, Nicole Kaplan, and Marco Canora reveal where they really eat in the city (think Wing Wong and Bellavitae). [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

From the in-laws to the office party, a list of restaurants to turn to for every holiday scenario.[Strong Buzz]

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NewsFeed 

11/15/07

9:00 AM

Wine-Geek Heaven on the Way to the East Village

It’s been a while since we first got wind of it, but the Hearth's long-awaited spinoff wine bar, Terroir, is finally close to becoming a reality. The space, known in its former life as Bikes by George, will begin its transformation right after Thanksgiving, and co-owners Paul Grieco and Marco Canora hope to open the place by New Year’s. Grieco, the wine director, is a wine geek’s wine geek, which means he's got some lofty plans.

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NewsFeed 

11/13/07

10:50 AM

Theater Strike Could Drop Curtain on Midtown Restaurants

Marco Canora: not a happy camper.Photo courtesy Hearth

The fuel that fires the midtown's restaurant economy is, like electricity or natural gas, indispensable. It's that bustling, shuffling mass we like to call tourists, and with 27 theaters currently dark thanks to a stagehand strike, the tourism machine may be poised to shudder and stop. “The strike has a huge effect on us,” bemoans Insieme chef Marco Canora. “That's like 40 percent of our business.” Thanks to Insieme's high repute, the place gets a good seating between pre- and post-theater, but other restaurants are even more vulnerable.

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VideoFeed 

10/ 3/07

2:00 PM

Two Chefs (and One Good Eater) Take a Trip to the Bronx

If there's something you can think of better than going up to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx in a big white Buick, for the express purpose of eating sandwiches with your two favorite Italian chefs, then we would like to know what it is. We heeded our lust for salumi and mozzarella and recorded the results for Grub Street posterity.

Grub Street Video Archive

The In-box 

9/17/07

5:20 PM

Take Your Teenager to the Chef's Counter, Not the Chef's Table

The soundproof panopticon that is Park Avenue Summer's chef table Photo: Melissa Hom

Grub Street,
I am attempting to find establishments that have a table in their kitchens. I have a teenager who is interested in the industry and I thought this would be fun to do together!
Yours,
An Encouraging Mother

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Foodievents 

8/22/07

11:00 AM

Meatopia IV: A Visual Feast

Basting

I'm basting, just like daddy … Seamus Mullen shows Mr. Cutlets how it's done.Photo: Melissa Hom

Last night's Meatopia was everything we could have dreamed of and more: an unforgettable spectacle of infanticide with world-class chefs, world-class gluttons, and the beauty of the Water Taxi Beach as a setting for both. Here's some hint of its wonders, captured by society photographer Melissa Hom.

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NewsFeed 

6/13/07

5:12 PM

Hearth’s New Wine Bar to Be a Very Low-key Affair

Word of Terroir, Hearth’s new spin-off wine bar, got out faster than owners Marco Canora and Paul Grieco wanted, but with the genie now out of the bottle, Canora tells us he’s ready to talk about it. “We wanted to keep it low-key, because we’re low-key guys,” he explains. The place is only 500 square feet, the chef says, and they don’t even plan to pipe in gas. There will be eight seats at the bar, a communal table with twelve to sixteen chairs, and a “very minimal” menu created by Canora, who with Grieco just recently opened Insieme in midtown.

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What to Eat Tonight 

5/31/07

2:36 PM

A Three-Way Standoff Between Olives, Duck, and Smoky Cheese, Tonight at Insieme

And don't forget to mix it all up together.Photo: Everett Bogue

Chef Marco Canora’s menu at Insieme is divided between modern dishes like uni risotto and traditional ones like spinach lasagne. But tonight’s special, black-olive fettuccine with duck ragù, falls somewhere between the two sides. “I love this as a take on a really rustic dish, but reworked,” Canora says. “The acidity of red wine goes with the richness of the duck, and both are complemented by the brininess of the olives.” The dish is topped with fiore de Sardo cheese, which Canora says he likes for its smokiness. If we were ordering it, we would start off with a cold, clean crudi appetizer, before taking on its deep, salty flavors. ($16 for an appetizer portion, $26 for entrée.)

In the Magazine 

5/29/07

9:30 AM

The Food War Between Old and New Continues

Time is always in motion, at Insieme and everywhere else.Photo: Morini & Montanari for New York Magazine

The attentions of New York’s food staff are divided between modernity and tradition. Gael Greene is vexed with Provence, a reopened French restaurant which was faithfully conventional even in its former incarnation. Rob and Robin, apart from their usual announcements of new places in Openings, extract from Anthos chef Michael Psilakis a comparatively novel recipe for mature dandelion greens. And Adam Platt finds himself caught in the middle of Marco Canora’s half-modern, half-classical menu at Insieme.

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The Annotated Dish 

5/ 9/07

5:00 PM

Insieme’s Complicated Quartet of Lamb

Marco Canora has the reputation as a chef’s chef, a guy who knows how to take great ingredients and develop their taste with a minimum of artifice or flash. He was that way as the original chef at Craft, at Hearth, and now at Insieme, his ambitious new midtown restaurant. Lamb four ways with lavender, spring garlic, peas, morels and spicy greens is a quintessential Canora dish, intense, multilayered, but somehow humble. Mouse over each element for Marco’s description.

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Neighborhood Watch 

4/27/07

3:22 PM

Vendors at Red Hook Ball Fields Postpone Opening

Brooklyn Heights: Brooklyn Pigfest, a major outdoor barbecue event at the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge, is slated for May 12. [The Food Section]
Financial District: Front Street sees the soft opening of New Zealand gastropub Nelson Blue. [Eater]
Midtown West: Haven't made it to Insieme? Jason Perlow's photo-essay chronicles, in loving and lingering detail, every course at Marco Canora's new restaurant. [Off the Broiler] Landmarc at the Time Warner Center makes a mean-looking burger. [Gothamist]
Red Hook: A new stoplight at the intersection of Van Brunt and Sullivan streets should help ease traffic caused by Fairway. [The Brooklyn Paper] Opening day for the ball fields' food stands has been postponed, for one more week! [Gowanus Lounge]
Flatiron: Eleven Madison Park declines to keep their trial pastry chef, Richard Bies; until they hire a permanent replacement for Nicole Kaplan, Daniel Humm himself is handling the dessert program. [Grub Street]
Related: Nicole Kaplan Ditching Eleven Madison Park

Openings 

4/18/07

11:00 AM

Marco Canora Does His Thing at Insieme, Aw Yeah

Eat up, Marco. Opening a restaurant can tire a guy out.Photo: RJ Mickelson/Vera for New York Magazine.

As Rob and Robin announce in this week’s Openings, Marco Canora has finally opened up a second restaurant. As its just-published menu shows, Insieme represents Canora’s efforts to do two things at once. On the one hand, dishes like lesso misto con condimenti tipici (mixed boil) or bistecca fiorentina (grilled steak) represent his take on ultratraditional Italian food; the “contemporary” side, with offerings like sea-urchin risotto, allows him to assert the thoughtful but restrained style he showed as the original chef at Craft and in his own, still-popular Hearth.

Insieme Menu

In the Magazine 

4/16/07

11:00 AM

Chefs Try to Take It to the Next Level in This Week’s Issue

The new, improved Gramercy Tavern.Photo: Credit: RJ Mickelson/Veras for New York Magazine

Five established chefs take center stage in this week’s issue – or six, if you count Kurt Gutenbrunner, who, per In Season, has a way with white asparagus. The others? Michael Anthony, the Blue Hill Haute Barnyard prodigy who stepped into Tom Colicchio’s shoes at Gramercy Tavern; Christopher Lee, a major rising talent who filled big shoes at Gilt; Kerry Simon, a Las Vegas–based Vongerichten lieutenant who is now doing the food for a giant karaoke bar; and finally Marco Canora and Asian dessert master Pichet Ong, whose long-awaited debuts, Insieme and P*Ong, respectively, open this week. All this star power, along with two short lists that couldn’t be more different, awaits in this week’s magazine.

Read more»

The In-box 

3/20/07

1:15 PM

Why Wasn’t I Completely Floored by Craft?

Like, shouldn't there be a mural there or something?Photo: Shanna Ravindra

Dear Grub Street,
I’m hoping someone can explain Craft to me. I was taken there the other night for my birthday dinner and came away completely confused and disappointed. Really, what’s the big deal? What’s with all the glowing reviews?
Andrea

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/12/07

9:00 AM

The Great Chef Crisis

"Psst … what's 'al dente' mean again?"Photo: Rene Sheret/Stone Collection

Recently, apropos nothing much, a prominent young chef we were chatting with launched into a tirade about the restaurant world’s “labor problem.” “None of us can get enough good cooks!” he exclaimed, by way of explanation. Between 2000 and 2006, only a handful of high-end restaurants — Lespinasse, Meigas, Quilty’s — have closed, and there has been an avalanche of major openings: Robuchon, Ramsay, Per Se, Masa, Craft, Del Posto, Morimoto, A Voce, the Modern, Lever House, Buddakan, Cafe Gray, Alto — the list goes on and on. “And it’s not just the massive boom of restaurants,” Adam Platt tells us. “They also have to be either bigger, or chefs have to open multiple places, so that they can enjoy the economies of scale they need to compete.”

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Click and Save 

1/ 8/07

10:00 AM

The Ultimate Chocolate Luxury; Neroni Promoting Carrots

Make pork chops the way they did in 1959 — or update them, Marco Canora style. [NYT]

Who doesn't love carrots? Just ask Jason Neroni. [NYDN]

January, the month to buy kitchen appliances. [NYDN]

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NewsFeed 

1/ 2/07

9:00 AM

Show Them the Money: New York Chefs Make New Year’s Resolutions

Bill Telepan might give up cursing, but smoking? Forget it.Photo: Josh Ozersky

Being typical office drones, our New Year’s resolutions were fairly predictable: lose weight, use our time better, quit freebasing Lipitor. Thankfully, a few of the city’s chefs have shared some of theirs with us.

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Openings 

12/14/06

9:00 AM

Hearth's Marco Canora Opening Two Restaurants in One

So talented, he cooks with his mind.Photo courtesy Hearth

Marco Canora, whose Italianate cooking at Hearth has been a big hit lo these past few years, will also be taking over the former Limoncello space in the Michelangelo hotel come March. "I want to do two menus at once," the chef tells us. "One will be old-world — no-frills, no bells and whistles. Just the dishes that have been around for 500 years. The new-world side will involve more global sourcing and be more composed, but still Italian." (The beet-and-Gorgonzola risotto at Hearth, with its julienne of fried beet bits on top, hints at what you can expect from the latter.) "This is not Marco Canora as a molecular gastronomist," Canora says, speaking grandly in the third person. "This is Marco Canora as an evolving chef."

Kobe Club, a Future Gastrosaloon and After Hours at Suba [Nation's Restaurant News; scroll to bottom of post]

Back of the House 

11/27/06

9:00 AM

New York Chefs Tell of Nightmarish Beginnings

Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan's fine new book, How I Learned to Cook, is a collection of first-person accounts of celebrated chefs' rocky beginnings. Some of the best chapters are by New York cooks: Andrew Carmellini of A Voce, Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune, David Chang of Momofuku and Ssäm Bar, and Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin. In case you have any doubts about adding it to your Amazon wish list, here's a breakdown of the hometown highlights.

Read more»

 

 

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