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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘marcus samuelsson’

NewsFeed 

8/ 4/08

12:30 PM

Gourmet Institute to Give Food & Wine Festival a Run for Its Money

gourmet magazine
October looks to be an exciting (and expensive!) month for foodies. The New York City Wine & Food Festival runs from the 9th to the 12th (featuring talks with Alice Waters, Ferran Adrià and Anthony Bourdain, and Gordon Ramsay), but Gourmet magazine won’t be outdone — its sixth annual “Gourmet Institute,” from October 17 to 19, features seminars and demonstrations from seemingly every big chef in the city.

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NewsFeed 

8/ 4/08

9:00 AM

Why Not to Be a Chef

miserable chef

Don't even get started.Photo: iStockphoto

So you want to be a chef? Over the weekend, The Daily News offered a battery of advice from established chefs that should be sufficient to change your mind. The piece leads off with Annisa's Anita Lo warning of the horrors of the kitchen, its burns and cuts and long hours: “A lot of people, if they knew what it was like to be working in a professional kitchen, probably wouldn't go to cooking school.” But even if you do want to go there, you better know all about business and marketing, says Aureole's Charlie Palmer: “In this day and age, understanding marketing is a huge thing. If you can't market yourself, you're dead, especially in New York City.” Chris Lee of Gilt says you better go to cooking school, though, because “if you don't have the foundation, which to me is schooling, you're going to be aggravated, and you're going to find yourself most likely leaving the industry.” Okay, check. But surely you can express yourself once you do get to the kitchen, right? Not so fast! You're just a flunky starting out, says Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit: “People want to do it the quick way, but it takes a long time before it's about you. I found it calming peeling the carrots. I enjoyed cleaning the fish.” This career sounds fantastic! Where do we sign up?

New York's Top Chefs Serve Career Advice [NYDN]

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

5:10 PM

Cuozzo Hammers the New Wave of Absentee Chefs

mystery chef

Um, the chef isn't here right now…Photo-illustration: iStockphoto

Steve Cuozzo brings it hard in today’s Post, jumping on a new generation of absentee chefs with both feet. The Cuozz finds it bad enough when it’s a Daniel Boulud or Jean-Georges Vongerichten who's not holding down the fort, “but today, kitchen-aversion has infected much lesser talents and pops up at restaurants where the chef is MIA almost from Day One.” You can well imagine whom Cuozzo has in mind in this diatribe: The classic Post illustration features milk cartons with Zak Pelaccio, Marcus Samuelsson, Todd English, and Alain Ducasse on them. (Their photos are with "What, me worry?" expressions for comic effect.) It’s a stinging rebuke, all right, and backed by first-person condemnations of recent meals at Pelaccio’s Chop Suey and Ducasse’s Benoit. It’s not just about kicking high-profile chefs, though: Cuozzo makes the point that the chef is a managerial role, and, when he or she is not present in a restaurant, especially a new one, the food inevitably suffers, as it did at his visits to Bar Q and Five-Napkin Burger, when Anita Lo and Andy D’Amico, respectively, weren’t there. The only place that comes out of the article unscathed, more or less, is Bar Boulud, which Cuozzo sees as having developed to the point that the kitchen is up to speed even without Daniel there cracking the whip. Which, for Cuozzo, is exactly the point.

Chef Search: Where Are the Great Chefs of NYC? [NYP]

NewsFeed 

7/17/08

5:15 PM

Marcus Samuelsson Out at Merkato 55?

Eater reports that Merkato 55 chef Marcus Samuelsson has left the restaurant. There’s no official confirmation, but the evidence is good: The chef’s name is now missing both from the restaurant's Website, and the restaurant is absent from Samuelsson's Townhouse Restaurant Group list. Conventional food wisdom also suggests the space will soon morph into a nightclub, giving Samuelsson no reason to stay.

Marcus Samuelsson Divorces Merkato 55, Ends Epic Charade [Eater]

NewsFeed 

5/ 8/08

9:30 AM

Chicago Asserts Itself by Poaching Chefs From All Over

terrance brennan and marcus sammuelson

There must be something in the mi-yulk out there…Photo: Getty Images

Every couple of years or so, a report circulates that Chicago, forever “the second city” (if that!) to New York, is experiencing a culinary renaissance and is about to shed its reputation as a backwater. (Chicagoans, naturally, deny, even to themselves, that such is the case.) A piece in today's Sun-Times makes the case yet again, and we have to say, it's pretty convincing. Aside from its own chefs, led by the brilliant Grant Achatz (profiled so memorably in this week's New Yorker) now Chicago has New York's Marcus Samuelsson opening a seafood restaurant, Terrance Brennan opening an Artisanal, San Francisco's Laurent Gras bringing his classical French genius, and Govind Armstrong expanding his chic empire from L.A. and Miami. Are the days of Chicago's being a place you start out in and then escape from coming to a close?

Their Kind of Town [Chicago Sun-Times]
Related: Earth to Chicago: You Lost ‘Iron Chef’ Fair and Square

NewsFeed 

4/29/08

2:00 PM

Samuelsson and Ripert Sell New York to the Tourists

morimoto

Samuelsson happens to like Aquavit.Photo: Getty Images

The last wave of “Just Ask the Locals” tourism ads featured Danny Meyer, and this time around the city has selected chefs Eric Ripert and Marcus Samuelsson — along with Diddy! — to dish on their favorite spots. Ripert give props to the wood-burning oven at Peasant — “absolutely fantastic” — while Samuelsson fingers Aquavit (for shame!), as well as Jean Georges, Luger, Republic, and wd-50. For late-night eats, he's all about Blue Ribbon Brasserie, Florent (despite its imminent demise), the Spotted Pig, and “anywhere in Chinatown” — although, except for Wo Hop and Noodletown, places in C-town tend to close on the early side. So if you see confused tourists wandering the darkened streets of Chinatown or attempting to gain entry into a shuttered Florent, you know whom to blame.

Just Ask the Locals [NYC Visit]

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The Annotated Dish 

2/21/08

5:29 PM

Merkato 55’s Most Popular Dish: Doro Wat

Merkato 55, Marcus Samuelsson’s tribute to the pan-African cookery, has only been open a few weeks, but already one dish has begun to break out — and oddly, it’s the most traditional thing on the menu. Doro wat, chef Andrea Berquist tells us, is essentially the national dish of Ethiopia, “so there was a lot of pressure to do it well. But I’m happy with it. It’s definitely our most popular dish. I did 50 orders just last night!” As always, mouse over the different parts of the dish to see them described in the chef’s own words.

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Foodievents 

11/ 6/07

9:34 AM

Colicchio, Samuelsson, Hall, Others Shine at Taste of New York

Wylie Dufresne and Marco Canora yuk it up after the ball.Photo: Melissa Hom

Though the event did not run late, the food at last night’s Taste of New York was beyond reproach: Suba’s Seamus Mullen produced some ridiculously rich and crispy oxtail croquettes, and the Ciao Bella guys served a Turkish yogurt gelato that stopped visitors in their tracks. Hill Country’s beef riblets were one of the hits of the show, requested by other chefs even as they labored behind their own tables. Meanwhile, Jim Meehan of PDT was setting out the apple cocktails that seemed to be in everybody’s hands.

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In the Magazine 

11/ 5/07

11:06 AM

Come Fly With Us in This Week’s Issue

African turkey, courtesy of Marcus Samuelsson. Photo Kang Kim

With all New York offers, it's still not enough. Our appetite for change and novelty is insatiable and voracious. Good thing we have this week's magazine! Why bother with traditional Thanksgiving, when there are so many global options here? We have recipes for Chinese Thanksgiving from Joe Ng of Chinatown Brasserie, Mexican Thanksgiving from Aaraon Sanchez of Centrico and Paladar, African Thanksgiving from Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit, and more. And if all that isn't novel enough, and you have to jet out of town, we can tell you where to eat while you're waiting – both in the airport, and in the surrounding areas. Finally, if you're sticking close to home, the Underground Gourmet suggests where to get a proper hero.

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Foodievents 

10/25/07

4:39 PM

Free Tickets to Taste of New York Are Going, Going…

Timebomb

Enter now, before it's too late!Photo: iStockPhoto.com

Reminder! Tomorrow at 5 p.m. we stop accepting entries to our Taste of New York contest. To the entrant who complained that the contest is too hard to win because you have to say something funny (not true! a Gipper-like speech will do), and thank the person reading your entry: We don’t ask for gratitude — we just want you to tell us about the toque or restaurant that you’d most like to see added to this year’s lineup. And isn’t that worth two free tickets to this culinary blowout? With the money you save, you can buy a nice digital camera and snap a shot of Marcus Samuelsson signing the body part of your choice. So enter already!

Win Two Tickets to Taste of New York!

NewsFeed 

9/12/07

9:30 AM

‘Exotic Spice’ Padma and ‘Ethnic Feast’ Marcus Samuelsson Among Most Stylish New Yorkers

Exotic Spices

Ethnic Feast, meet Exotic Spice.Photo: Patrick McMullan, Gina James/Graylock/Retna

When Esquire picked Bar Veloce’s Thomas Crowley one of the “Best Dressed Real Men in America” this month (and posed Simon Hammerstein and David Chang in pricey duds for its “Angry Young Men” spread), we realized that restaurateur style doesn’t stop at Batali’s clogs and Bobby Flay’s mom jeans. Now Us Weekly has posted its list of the “25 Most Stylish New Yorkers,” and we know a couple of the names.

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Mediavore 

8/29/07

10:22 AM

Tailor Open; Marcus Samuelsson in Cahoots With Starbucks

Put down your roman à clef! Tailor had its soft opening last night. [Down by the Hipster]
Related: What to Read While You Wait for Tailor to Open — Sam Mason: The Novel

Five recipes from Marcus Samuelsson's cookbook Discovery of a Continent: Foods, Flavors and Inspirations from Africa were developed by a team from Starbucks as part of a deal that also includes the introduction of baked items and coffee blends sold under the chef's name. [Eat for Victory/VV]

The closing of Dévi makes Frank Bruni sad, and in his elegy to the restaurant, he ponders our take on Suvir Saran's motives. [Diner's Journal/NYT]
Related: Debriefing Dévi: Suvir Saran’s Suspected Side Projects

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Foodievents 

8/24/07

1:32 PM

Roddick Can Play Tennis, But Can He Cook?

Andy Roddick

Andy Roddick is enraged at his dinner.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Daily Intel attended the Dacor Taste of Tennis event last night and got to see Andy Roddick and Rafael Nadal in chef’s whites instead of tennis whites. Roddick cooked with Aquavit’s Marcus Samuelsson, and 2001 U.S. Open champ Lleyton Hewitt served braised beef short ribs. See who else whipped up what over at Daily Intel.

Andy Roddick Cooks Dinner (With Help From Marcus Samuelsson) [Daily Intel]

Neighborhood Watch 

8/15/07

3:30 PM

Tony ‘No Reservations’ Bourdain Hearts Ali's Offal in Astoria

Astoria: Anthony Bourdain featured Ali’s Kebab Cafe on No Reservations, and here’s the video of him downing offal. [Joey in Astoria]
Boerum Hill: Workers are renovating the old Independence Bank for Trader Joe’s. The space may even retain its character! [Lost City]
East Village: AvroKO and Public boys Brad and Adam Farmerie hope to score a liquor license for their new place, Superior. B Flat applied for a license at the same Bond Street space a few months back and was denied. [Eater] E.U. will accept euros as payment from August 24 through Labor Day. You can eat 34 cents more on the dollar! [Grub Street]
Financial District: Stonehouse California Olive Oil has moved to the South Street Seaport and refills bottles at $2 off the regular price. [NYT]
Hell’s Kitchen: No free Cuban for you today; unfinished construction indicates the new Sophie’s on 40th between Seventh and Eighth is in no way ready for a grand opening. [Midtown Lunch]

Mediavore 

6/20/07

10:12 AM

City Backs Down on Calorie-Info Law; Gordon Ramsay Accused of TV Fakery

The city, stared down by the adamant opposition of big restaurant chains, has pushed back implementation of its calorie-info law for three months. [NYP]

The former manager of Dillons, the midtown restaurant to be “rescued” by Gordon Ramsay on his new show, is suing the chef, claiming the program was “a prime example of fake TV” with planted customers, rotten meat put out for dramatic effect, and worse. [NYP]

The city’s best hamburgers are all the product of one great butcher, Pat LaFrieda, whose custom grinds, though secret, are geared to each restaurant’s cooking methods. [Men’s Vogue]

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Mediavore 

6/13/07

10:00 AM

New York is Now Fat City; Korean KFC Comes to New York

Fat is where it’s at in New York today, thanks to the efforts of what Adam Platt would call the “refined meathead” school of chefs like David Chang and Zak Pelaccio. [NYT]
Related: You Know You’re a Meathead When… [NYM]

Kyochon Chicken, the Korean chain behind the current wave of Korean fried-chicken restaurants, has opened in Flushing. Two more locations are planned for Bayside. [NYT]

Ilan Hall defeated Sam Talbot in their outdoor Top Chef rematch yesterday, Hall’s soft-shell crab salad triumphing over Talbot's grilled quail and potatoes. [NYDN]

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NewsFeed 

5/15/07

5:00 PM

How to Avoid 46 Trips to Queens

Come for the celebrity chef, stay for the pot stickers.Photo courtesy DishDuJour

Manhattanites tend to give lip service to the jubilee that is the Queens restaurant scene, and who can blame them? Schlepping out to Rego Park and trying to find 63rd Drive and 108th Street could drive anyone crazy. Hence the beauty of "The Cuisine of Queens and Beyond 2007," being held on the 22nd. The event features Aquavit chef Marcus Samuelsson, pushing his book on African cooking, but the real reason to go is to experience representative dishes from 47 different Queens restaurants which you might normally never get to. Some of our favorite places are there, and we strongly recommend them to you.

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Mediavore 

3/14/07

10:07 AM

The Coffee Shop Open Again; Marcus Samuelsson Heading to Meatpacking?

With Gordon Ramsay, DB Bistro Moderne, and others, room service has recently gotten a lot more ambitious — though not necessarily successful. [NYT]

The Coffee Shop is back in business after its brief and much-publicized closure. [NYP]

Once they move into Sascha, the brothers behind PM plan to put Aquavit’s Marcus Samuelsson in charge of the kitchen. [Eater]
Related: PM Owners to Open Harlem Restaurant, Bistro-Bakery-Club in Sascha Space

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Foodievents 

1/31/07

9:00 AM

Almost as Good as Rodney Dangerfield: Back to School With Culinary Stars

The Insatiable Gourmet herself, Gael Greene.Photo: Patrick McMullan

This spring — a season which we’re glad to remind ourselves of as we enter drab February — the Institute of Culinary Education will be offering a roster of recreational classes that we heartily recommend, despite the fact that (full disclosure) self-deprecating Grub Street editor Josh Ozersky will be teaching one. Many friends of Grub Street — and a colleague, Gael Greene, who will head up “An Evening of Excess” — will be passing along wisdom on everything from blintzes to methylcellulose.

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User's Guide 

11/ 2/06

9:00 AM

New Cookbooks You Might Actually Open

If you have to buy one book, buy this one too.

Back in the day, of course, most kitchens could get by with a single massive reference tome; as the Times just pointed out, it was often Joy of Cooking. Now so many cookbooks come out every season that you could spend your entire grocery budget on them. Here are an exceptional handful by New York chefs or celebrities that have come out this fall.

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What to Eat Tonight 

10/19/06

2:00 PM

From Venison to Grouse: Game On!

Hate the player, not the game.Photo: istockphoto.com/GinaRothfels

With Tim Love and Ted Turner having recently opened game restaurants here — Lonesome Dove Western Bistro and Ted's Montana Grill, respectively — it's a good time for us to consider wild animals: how free and beautiful they are and where you can currently eat them. There are some excellent New York restaurants that feature out-of-the-mainstream meats, especially in the fall.

Read more»

 

 

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