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All Posts Tagged: ‘meat’

Former Lever House Chef Defends His Burger

Dan Silverman knows all about LaFrieda beef.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Dan Silverman, Lever House's former chef, saw our post on the new Lever House burger and wrote in to remind us that the Lever House burger won't be entirely new. To wit:

I wish Brad Thompson all the best at Lever House. However, I'd like to clear the air a bit about the Lever burger. Pat LaFrieda has been the house meat purveyor at LH since day one. I used LaFrieda for five plus years at Union Square Café, and for years before that at Alison on Dominick. Also, the LH burger that I made weighed in at 10 ounces. Good for a hangover? Absolutely! A “Sunday” burger? I’m not so sure...As one of the last freestanding wholesale meat businesses left in Manhattan, Pat Jr. and his partner Mark are doing a remarkable job and deserve every bit of press they get.
Best,
Dan Silverman

Earlier: Brad Thompson Plans a New Burger for Lever House

More: Beef »andre balazs, burgers, dan silverman, lever house, meat, pat lafrieda, the standard

Premium Proteins of New York

Black sea bass used at Le Bernardin. Photo: Melissa Hom

The days of a restaurant describing its proteins in generic terms — “prime beef,” “tender veal,” etc. — are long gone, banished by the small-farm sensibility, the Haute Barnyard movement, and the pride of a thousand restaurants that go to the trouble to let you know just where your proteins are coming from. Watch the slideshow to learn sourcing secrets from some top New York chefs.

Slideshow: Premium Proteins

More: User's Guide »del posto, gramercy tavern, le bernardin, lure, meat, porter house new york, the harrison

NewsFeed

6/19/08

2:05 PM

Scented-Bacon Suit Confirms the End of Bacon’s Coolness

Just what your closet needed.Photo: Mcphee.com

You may remember our assertion, last year, that bacon had finally jumped the shark. Well, with the appearance of the bacon suit from Seattle novelty company Archie McPhee, we consider our prediction justified once and for all. Which isn’t to say we wouldn’t buy, and wear, the suit; after all, “each tuxedo is tailored from chemically treated latex-print fabric in one of four different sizes. Best of all, it smells just like bacon sizzling in the pan.” The chance to smell more like bacon than we already do is an irresistible one, even without the added cache of dry-cured couture.

Bacon-Scented Bacon-Print Tuxedo [Archie McPhee, via Racked]
Related: Bacon Has Jumped the Shark

Update: Archie McPhee has called to tell us that the bacon tuxedo, far from being a rococo bit of bacon excess, is nothing less than an April Fools' joke still hanging around on the Website. We still believe that bacon has jumped the shark, however. It's just a matter of time until someone develops a scented bacon tux.

More: NewsFeed »bacon, meat

Mediavore

6/11/08

10:00 AM

Empire State Tomatoes Safe; How ‘Top Chef’ Judging Works

• No salmonella here! All tomatoes grown in New York were deemed safe to eat by the State Department of Agriculture yesterday. [NY1]

• When it comes to fancy digital menus, Adour’s is the only one that isn’t completely wretched. [TONY]

• Top Chef judge Ted Allen says picking this season’s winner wasn’t easy and that he and the other judges used “numerical models” to evaluate the finalists. [Zagat Buzz]

More: Mediavore »adour, broadway east, cesare casella, david chang, food and wine classic, gray's papaya, james beard awards, kosher, lee gross, localvores, maremma, meat, padma lakshmi, ruth reichl, salmonella, ted allen, tom colicchio, tomatoes, top chef

NewsFeed

5/ 5/08

3:40 PM

Meatpacking District Loses Another Link to Meatpacking Past

Old-time meat purveyor Walmir has closed, leaving future generations one step closer to total confusion about the meatpacking district's name. Walmir, a major source of meat for the likes of Peter Luger, was one of the last of the butchers who still brought meat in “on the rail,” as whole hindquarters of beef. It was a wildly expensive and inefficient system, which is one reason Walmir went under. (The company, in a statement, blamed rising meat costs for the closure.) But the practice was universal for most of the area's history, until, bit by bit, Walmir was left as the only business keeping it alive. Another neighborhood meat man, Pat La Frieda Sr., says there is no replacement for the likes of Walmir. “You go and try to find guys to move a 180-pound hindquarter. That’s not how people work today, ” he laments. “The trucks aren’t equipped for it. We have it done at the slaughterhouse. The meat business here doesn’t work the way it used to.”

More: NewsFeed »meat, meatpacking district, pat lafrieda, walmir

User's Guide

5/ 1/08

3:00 PM

Coffee and Meat Obsessives Need to Get to Bookstores Soon

Photo Courtesy of G. P. Putnam's Sons and John Wiley & Sons/span>

The Grub Street bookshelf continues to fill up this season with focused nonfiction books about our favorite subjects. The two latest, both out this month, are Michaele Weissman's God in a Cup, the story of a coffee bean that has taken the world of specialty-coffee dealers by storm, and Susan Bourette's Meat: A Love Story, the latest New Carnivore tome justifying the ways of man to meat. (The Shameless Carnivore and The Compassionate Carnivore were the last two.) Both books are fascinating in the way they focus on coffee and meat, respectively; by the time you’re done, you feel ready to tramp around Panama seeking the rare Hacienda La Esmeralda Special or going to Alaska or Texas for whale hunts and cattle drives. Despite our predilection for meat, we enjoyed God in a Cup a little more. You can eat meat anywhere, but the legendary coffee the latter book describes is unavailable in New York and therefore belongs to the world of aspirational, or rather devotional, appreciation. And that's the plane on which the best food books excel. On the other hand, we've never gnawed on whale blubber.

God in a Cup: The Obsessive Quest for the Perfect Coffee [Amazon]
Meat: A Love Story [Amazon]
Related: Shameless Carnivore Stands to Be Corrected by Compassionate Carnivore

More: User's Guide »coffee, god in a cup, meat, meat a love story, michaele weissman, susan bourette

NewsFeed

4/16/08

9:00 AM

The ‘New Carnivores’ Stalk Greater Fame

Scott Gold, poster boy for the New Carnivores.Photo: Scott Gold

The Post today looks into the world of the “New Carnivores,” those (mostly male) foodies whose calling card is their preening meatitude. Scott Gold, author of The Shameless Carnivore, shares an offal platter with the writer at Casa Mono. The New Carnivore revels in his love of offal and game animals, exerting a macho pride in the gross-out factor connected with such dishes. (It's better still if he can claim to have actually stalked his meat with bow and arrow, and then butchered it himself on the kitchen table.) We're still a little skeptical about the whole thing — isn't there enough beef, pork, and veal at the supermarket to make any carnivore happy? — but the Post did coin a good phrase.

We're Having a Meat Wave [NYP]

More: NewsFeed »casa mono, meat, offal, scott gold

Mediavore

3/13/08

10:00 AM

Ilan Hall to Open Tapas Truck in L.A.; Chefs Keep on Blogging

Top Chef champ Ilan Hall’s rumored L.A project is now a restaurant truck that serves tapas and has a foldout bar. [MSNBC]
Related: For Ilan Hall, a Taco Shack of One’s Own

The president of Westland/Hallmark Meat Co., the California beef company responsible for the largest meat recall in American history, acknowledged yesterday the illegal slaughter of sick cows at his plant after a congressional panel forced him to watch the undercover video depicting the abuse. [WSJ]

Chefs’ blogs keep getting better and better, and there are increasingly more and more of them. At what point are they all just going to leave the kitchen and become full-time bloggers? [LAT]

More: Mediavore »beef, beer, blind tiger ale house, chef blogs, foie gras, ilan hall, meat, pacific standard, rachael ray, southpaw, top chef

Mediavore

3/12/08

10:20 AM

Chef Counters on the Rise; Chefs Put in Their Time on the Line

As chefs and cooks take on more roles of service, they cut out more costs and create a more intimate dining experience, especially at restaurants with counters overlooking the food preparation. [NYT]
Related: Ringside Seats at the Chef's Counter

Apparently, restaurants’ hanging of red velvet curtains in colder months signals metaphors of birth and womblike spaces for diners. Ew. [NYO]

Chefs like Akhtar Nawab of Elettaria and Josh Eden of Shorty’s.32 both spent years cooking on the line before being able to fly solo. [TONY]

More: Mediavore »akhtar nawab, bar boulud, blue smoke, elettaria, fette sau, fiamma, frank bruni, josh eden, madaleine mae, market table, meat, rub, shorty's.32, st. patrick's day, tablexchange, tiffin wallah

NewsFeed

3/11/08

9:00 AM

NYC Meat Clubs Accepting New Members

When you eat the ham, close your eyes and imagine you are here…Photo courtesy Lewis Waite Farm

The first rule of meat club is … it’s okay to talk about meat club. Actually, it’s more than okay. As CSA (Community Sponsored Agriculture) co-ops spread throughout the city, more and more New Yorkers are getting locally sourced beef, pork, lamb, and poultry directly from small, upstate farms, bypassing vendors, grocers, and even greenmarkets. Recently, a good friend took us with him to the Windsor Terrace home of a local meat-club (his term) distributor. There, he picked up a box filled with eggs, chicken, steak, leg of lamb, and an ivory-white, creamy-pure fresh ham, just waiting to be brined and roasted that night. New meat clubs are developing in neighborhoods all over (Victorian Flatbush just got one, which is good news for us): To find out about your local meat-delivery service, contact Nancy Brown at Lewis Waite Farm, a sylvan paradise that is coordinating the city’s fledgling meat-club movement.

CSA Pastured Meat and Poultry [Official site]

More: NewsFeed »csa, ditmas park, lewis waite farm, meat

Back of the House

2/12/08

4:30 PM

Venerable Meat Purveyor Struck by Fire

In a city already starved for first-class steak, there’s going to be a lot less of it to go around, at least for a little while: Master Purveyors in the Bronx, one of the city’s top meat suppliers and a little piece of its history, suffered extensive damage from a fire at its Hunts Point building last night. Masters, as it was called, was a family business that had been supplying the city’s top steakhouses for generations, and it can’t be easily replaced: It’s the meat equivalent to Russ & Daughters burning down, or the Strand being evicted and replaced with a Virgin Megastore. Along with Pat La Frieda, the Piccinini Brothers, and DeBragga and Spitler, Master Purveyors are the last of the city's great old-guard meat purveyors. Adam Perry Lang of Daisy May and (formerly) Robert's Steakhouse, one of Masters' most devoted clients, says, “This is a tragedy, but I know they’ll bounce back. They’re survivors … they’re the real deal and they have so much integrity.” Whether they will bounce back is still unclear. We hope to have more information tomorrow.

Fire Damages Big Market in the Bronx [NYT]

More: Back of the House »bronx, hunts point, master purveyors, meat

Mediavore

1/28/08

10:00 AM

Michael ‘Bao’ Huynh Out at Bun; A Le Cirque Documentary

Michael “Bao” Huynh has left his post at Bun, saying he couldn’t get along with his partner. Next up: a new noodle shop in Tribeca. [Insatiable Critic]

Burgerphilia: a new term about burger obsessives we won’t be using. [Time]
Related: Daniel Boulud’s Downtown Burger Place Finally Signs the Lease

A Table in Heaven, a documentary that looks at Le Cirque’s move from the Palace Hotel to the Bloomberg building, was screened at the Sundance Film Festival and promises to show Sirio Maccioni’s tendency to exceed the restaurant’s 2 percent cap on free meals. [NYDN]

More: Mediavore »bobby flay, bun, burgers, daniel boulud, le cirque, meat, michael huynh, sirio maccioni, sundance film festival, thomas keller, tribeca

Back of the House

11/28/07

9:30 AM

Bill Buford Takes the Meat Dilemma by the Horns

Bill Buford: perplexed.Photo: Getty Images

Bill Buford’s meat-oriented think piece in the current New Yorker, based on his having read three recent books by committed meat men, has as its moral the necessity of knowing, and caring about, the animals you ingest. This has come to be pretty much a dictum of modern foodie culture, but we’re not so sure about it. For one thing, having read the piece through, we still don’t know what Buford’s attitude is toward regular meat. Sure, he likes it when his pork comes from some ancient butcher who raised it in his living room and cut up every part at a big shindig with his fellow French villagers. But does that mean Buford will stop eating commodity meat? Somehow we doubt it.

More: Back of the House »bill buford, meat

NewsFeed

10/29/07

9:00 AM

What's That You're Wearing? Roast Beef?

Smell this. It's awful!Photo courtesy CB Perfume

Those of you who don’t already reek of booze should take note: CB I Hate Perfume in Williamsburg will unveil, this week, a new fragrance inspired by one of perfumer Christopher Brosius’s favorite drinks — whiskey and ginger ale with a slice of cucumber. It joins CB’s “food series,” which also includes roast beef, bruschetta, pesto, boiled rice, a California roll, cucumber sandwiches, French bread, and tortilla chips. The scents go for $25 to $35 for fifteen milliliters, but don’t try to buy the food ones on the Website. “I want people to come to the gallery,” Brosius says, “to smell them and know what they’re getting into.” So what are they getting into? We asked the perfumer himself.

More: NewsFeed »cheese, meat, perfume

NewsFeed

10/24/07

5:15 PM

Greenpoint Man Eats Everything on Four Legs

Scott Gold, aiming for conspicuous carnivorous consumption.Photo: Scott Gold

We are especially attached to edible animals, but we have to hand it to Greenpoint resident Scott Gold, the author of the forthcoming book The Shameless Carnivore. The 30-year-old former literary agent puts us to shame when it comes to the breadth of his appetites. Although his book is filled with dietetic information, ethics, meat lore, cultural anthropology, and the like, the thing that really turns us on is the part where he ate 31 animals in 31 days. “It wasn’t one a day,” Gold assures us. “Some nights it would be three or four. On venison night, I ate whitetail deer, antelope, elk, and caribou. But on the other hand, turtle soup took two days to prepare.”

More: NewsFeed »greenpoint, meat, scott gold, shameless carnivore

NewsFeed

8/31/07

11:26 AM

LaFrieda Saves the Good Stuff for Restaurants

Save the good stuff for restaurants: from left, Mark Pastore, Pat LaFrieda Sr., and Pat LaFrieda Jr.Courtesy Pat LaFrieda

A sharp-eyed Eater reader wondered if our report about Pat LaFrieda breaking into the retail market was inaccurate: “I believe they already supply retail markets. The Jubilee market at Trump Place gets deliveries from there all the time.” The answer? The trucks carry commodity meat, of the kind commonly found in supermarkets, but never the high-end stuff LaFrieda sells to the likes of the little owl, the Spotted Pig, and so on. VP Mark Pastore confirms this, telling us, “We sell them regular commodity items. However Market Table will be the first place to carry our chopped beef, burgers, and heritage meats direct from us to the customer. We do not sell LaFrieda burgers or heritage products to anyone but restaurants at this time.” So there you have it. If you’re going to hijack that LaFrieda meat truck, make sure it’s the one bound for the Shake Shack.

EaterWire: Trump Trumps LaFrieda, Petraske to LIC, More [Eater]
Earlier: Shake Shack Hamburger and Little Owl Pork Chops Can Soon Be Yours [Grub Street]

More: NewsFeed »little owl, mark pastore, meat, pat lafrieda, shake shack, spotted pig

NewsFeed

8/30/07

11:00 AM

Shake Shack Hamburger and Little Owl Pork Chops Can Soon Be Yours

LaFrieda beef for Shake Shack: Now it can be yours. (Treo present to indicate scale.)Photo: Josh Ozersky

The famous ground-beef mixture from Pat LaFrieda has been the talk of burger circles the last few years — a dizzying time in which the Spotted Pig, Shake Shack, Stand, and half a dozen other contenders have taken the previously humble sandwich to the proverbial next level. The source of all that burger greatness, as Men’s Vogue recently wrote, is LaFrieda, the city’s top source for high-end wholesale meats. Scratch the wholesale part! Soon, and for the first time ever, the burger that launched a thousand blog posts will be available at the retail counter at Market Table, Joey Campanero and Mike Price’s new restaurant in the West Village.

More: NewsFeed »beef, burgers, joey campanero, little owl, market table, meat, michael price, pat lafrieda, pork, west village

Foodievents

8/20/07

11:11 AM

Meatopia V: Grilled Gore and Guts

Mr. Cutlets approves this menu!Courtesy of Josh Ozersky

The response to our Meatopia V contest has been overwhelming. Grub Street is populated by committed carnivores who have filled our meat cooler with brilliant ideas for next year’s edible animal gala. We’ll highlight some of the best throughout the day and announce the winners tomorrow. (Entry deadline is 6 p.m. today.) Here are three of our favorites.

More: Foodievents »april bloomfield, blue smoke, david chang, fette sau, hill country, joe carroll, kenny callahan, meat, meatopia, momofuku, morimoto, spotted pig

Back of the House

7/17/07

11:00 AM

Progressive Purveyor Cornering the Market on Boutique Meat

We're here, we sell steers, get used to it: from left, meat men Mark Pastore, Pat LaFrieda Sr., and Pat LaFrieda Jr.Photo courtesy Pat LaFrieda

Like Old MacDonald’s farm, which had a duck duck here and a duck duck there, the web of artisanal-meat sources has been spread pretty wide. There’s no central terminal, no Union Square Greenmarket where the best small-farm beef, pork, and lamb congregates; and the lack of infrastructure has been gumming up the works as New York’s best restaurants move from generic commodity meat to the Haute Barnyard versions preferred by chefs. Now, though, Pat LaFrieda, the city’s most progressive wholesale meat supplier, is quickly becoming the source of “boutique” meats.

More: Back of the House »beef, burgers, cesare casella, mark pastore, meat, pat lafrieda

The Gobbler

4/11/07

1:54 PM

You Know You’re a Meathead When ...

Ken Friedman owns the Spotted Pig with Meathead god Batali.Photo: Melissa Hom

The Gobbler recently introduced the world to what he called the “Refined Meathead” school of cooking. Meatheads are mostly male, pork- and offal-obsessed cooks who disdain classical (read “French”) haute cuisine in favor of an earthier brand of cuisine. Mario Batali is king of the Meatheads. David Chang is a Meathead. Daniel Boulud, who grew up eating robust Lyonnaise food and cooks the best pork belly in town when he feels like it, is a closet Meathead. Who are the rest of the Meatheads? How would you know one if you met one in the street? Here are the Gobbler’s Six Meathead Commandments.

More: The Gobbler »adam platt, bill buford, daniel boulud, david chang, fergus henderson, mario batali, meat, meathead, momofuku ssam bar, pork

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

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All Posts Tagged: ‘meat’

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