Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘momofuku’

The New York Diet 

6/13/08

9:00 AM

Rising Star Chef Gavin Kaysen Celebrates With Lamb’s Heart

gavin kaysen

"I go to the Spotted Pig maybe two or three times a month."Photo: Melissa Hom

Gavin Kaysen cooked all over the country and in Switzerland and in London under Marco Pierre White before becoming the executive chef at Café Boulud last year. Even working for one of his heroes Daniel Boulud, he was unsure whether he had made the right call. “Whenever you take a risk moving from one place to another, especially New York City,” he told us, “you always question if it’s the right move.” Any doubt about that evaporated when he won the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef of the Year Award last week. “I was blown away,” he says. We asked Kaysen how he ate and drank his way through this week of celebrations.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/29/08

12:35 PM

David Chang Named Most Influential, Pounds PBR

As if it wasn't enough to immortalize David Chang in a photo portrait, Esquire has now made him video-art fodder. The magazine has commissioned new-media artist Lincoln Schatz to compose trippy clips of the “most influential people of the 21st century,” and (following in the footsteps of George Clooney, Santiago Calatrava, and Marc Jacobs) the latest to spend an hour chilling in Shatz’s Cube (a ten-foot-by-ten-foot translucent box rigged with 24 cameras) is none other than the Changster — “the most celebrated young cook in America” — along with four members of his crew. Due to extreme artsy-ness, we can’t make much out other than the fact that they’re annihilating a carton of Pabst Blue Ribbon that ends up on someone’s head— if this is a portrait of the 21st century, help us all.

Enter the Cube: David Chang [Esquire]

Ask a Waiter 

5/28/08

6:00 PM

Jenn James of the Rusty Knot Never Wants to Hear ‘Hotel California’ Again

jenn james of the rusty knot

"We do something called a 'pickle back' — a shot of Jameson with a shot of pickle-juice brine."Melissa Hom

Jenn James was a full-time student and part-time rooftop gardener before she decided to return to waitressing. She called up her old boss at the Spotted Pig, Ken Friedman, and his brother, Doug, invited her to help open the bar he manages, the Rusty Knot. She knew it would be fun when on the first night everyone ate and drank so much that the bar had to close down for a few days to restock. Jenn pled the Fifth when we asked her about celebrities (“We’ve seen a few” is all she’d say), but, luckily, she had plenty more to talk about.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/18/08

4:05 PM

‘Times’ Confirms Meehan Is Over ‘$25 and Under’

Eater is reporting that Peter Meehan has resigned as the Times’ “$25 and Under” columnist. We haven’t been able to reach Meehan, but his editor, Pete Wells, told us, "Peter had a wonderful appetite and passion for the job, and we know he's going to do really well in whatever his next project is." The Times had recently cut his column to biweekly from weekly; the payday Meehan just received from Random House for selling a Momofuku book with David Chang may have been incentive to literally book it out of there. The Times will post the official story later today.

Peter Meehan Ankles NY Times $25 and Under Post [Eater]

Neighborhood Watch 

4/ 2/08

3:00 PM

Artichoke Pizza Hasn't Heard of David Chang; Green-Tea Cookies So Good in the East Village

Coney Island: You can get a mozzarepa here, all year long. [Lost City]
Boerum Hill: Southerner blogger Nichelle Stephens once only considered "whoopie" to be a "euphemism for sex used only by contestants on the old television show The Newlywed Game," but with help from Northeast bakeries like One Girl Cookies, she discovered how good a real whoopie could be.
East Village: Chang dog was apparently spotted at the new Artichoke pizza welcoming the owners, complimenting their fritters, and introducing himself. However, they weren't familiar with this "Momofuku" he spoke of. [Eating in Translation]
Danyelle Freeman lays out a list of her favorite cookies, and she's included Panya's mini green-tea butter cookies. We concur. [Restaurant Girl]
Harlem: There's a "Coffee Bark" with refreshments for dog owners (or sitters) this Saturday at St. Nicholas Park between 136th and 137th Streets. [Uptown Flavor]
West Chelsea: Suzy Wong gives out lewd fortune cookies. [Down by the Hipster]

NewsFeed 

3/21/08

9:45 AM

What’s So Funny ’Bout Peace, Love, and Momofuku?

elvis costello

David Chang's armies are here to stay...Photo: Getty Images

If being the subject of a New Yorker profile (or an Esquire fashion spread) is not heady enough, how about an album named after your restaurant? Elvis Costello’s upcoming release is called Momofuku and may soon be on permanent rotation throughout the Chang empire. Now, it's possible that the album is named after Momofuku Ando, the inventor of instant ramen noodles. Or that Costello is using “momofuku” in its original Japanese sense of “lucky peach.” (If the cover looks like the Allmans' Eat a Peach, we’ll know for sure.) We propose another motive: Like everybody else, Costello is desperately trying to get a reservation at Momofuku Ko.


Elvis Costello, Foodie? The Momofuku Mystery
[Rolling Stone, via Eater]

NewsFeed 

3/19/08

5:05 PM

Psychic Predicts Atomic Bomb, Momofuku's Survival

The latest Urban Daddy newsletter is hitting in-boxes right about now, and today's edition features an interview with noted psychic Judi Hoffman. Amidst her predictions about the fate of Eliot Spitzer, Steve Jobs's next invention, and the direction of the real-estate market, she also takes a moment to play Gastrodamus:

UD: What about the [forecast for the] LES?
JH: It's way too oversaturated, and the unlabeled restaurants thing is going to be over, the kind where you need the phone number or a psychic to find the place. Everything I say about restaurants, though, doesn't apply to Momofuku. I love Momofuku. After the atomic bomb, all that will be left will be cockroaches and Momofuku.

And even then, you still won't get a reservation at Ko.

In the Magazine 

3/17/08

9:30 AM

Good Times for High and Low in This Week's Issue

Adour

This is what a three-star restaurant looks like.Photo: Eric Laignel/Courtesy of Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis New York

These are high times we’re living in. Every stratum of society has something going for it. On the tippy top, the wine-swilling swells who frequent Adour can enjoy what, in Adam Platt’s view, is three-star cuisine. And their fellow plutocrats will enjoy South Gate’s posh but lively room and Gael Greene–approved food (well, except for the clams). But for the rest of us, Rob and Robin have a panoply of awarding options: There are the spring-inspired rhubarb hamantaschen made by Emily Isaac at Trois Pommes Patisserie; an interview the Robs did with Momofuku man Joaquin Baca, who now is doing the menu for world-class dive bar the Rusty Knot; and, adding to this embarrassment of riches, takeout sweets from Pichet Ong’s Batch, and a very appealing-sounding little Tuscan restaurant on Bleecker Street. On top of everything else, crackling is the latest snack trend. Good times, friends. Good times.

Read more»

Celebrity Settings 

1/31/08

3:30 PM

Momofuku, Freemans, Spotted Pig Honchos Break Bread With Stephen Starr

Li Lo does Luger.Photo: WireImage

Our favorite celebrity sighting of the week was, of course, Lindsay Lohan at Peter Luger on Tuesday night — that’s because we saw her with our own eyes. Of course, we can’t be everywhere and see everyone, so as usual we’ve combed the gossip columns for other stop-ins. We’re sorry we missed Tracy Morgan at the Plumm, shirtless and offering to father babies as usual, and boy do we wish we were a fly on the wall when partners Ken Friedman and Taavo Somer, along with David Chang, dined with Stephen Starr at Buddakan. Is there a Spotted Buddafuku in the works?

Read more»

NewsFeed 

12/10/07

2:28 PM

Yakitori Taisho Starts Saying ‘Irrashaimasse!’ One Hour Earlier

Taisho

We're leaving work early.Photo: Daniel Maurer

We usually flee Momofuku when there’s a line, but Yakitori Taisho is a different story: When you wait there you’re treated to a spectacle of boisterous grillmasters blasting flamethrowers, sending fireballs up to the ceiling, and feeling no pain as they turn over sizzling chicken-gizzard skewers (trust us, it’s much better than blowing $70 on Fuerzabruta tickets). Next month Taisho will start serving its “Japanese soul food” an hour earlier, at 5 p.m., and while that may not seem like big news to those who aren’t members of the cult, an extra hour of fish balls fried in cheese — fish balls fried in cheese — is about as good a holiday gift as we could hope for. Sixty-ounce Kirin drafts all around!

Yakitori Taisho menu

Foodievents 

12/ 5/07

4:55 PM

Ring in the New Year With David Chang!

We just got a look at the Ssäm Bar New Year’s Eve party, and while we won’t be attending (that $300 is earmarked for a new car), we have to say that it looks pretty impressive. For your three bills, you get open bar (beer, sake and wine only), plus Champagne (but for how long?), and, in the food department, such Ssäm standbys as artisanal-ham plates, aged steak, and a slow-cooked pork butt, d.b.a. Bo Ssäm — usually $180 when you order it on the menu. We still can't figure out the economics of Ssäm Bar, but given Chang's resistance to moneymaking (through expansion, cookbooks, etc.), we doubt he's looking to make much money. And if the “unlimited beer, wine, and sake” really are unlimited, the Soupman could well end up on the red side of the ledger.

David Chang's New Year's Party

The Gobbler 

11/27/07

9:00 AM

How to Eat in Tokyo, Michelin Capital of the World

Tokyo fish

In Tokyo, have faith and eat.Photo: Getty Images

When it comes to New York restaurants, the Gobbler’s views on the addled Mandarins at the Michelin Guides are well known. But when news came, the other day, that the first-ever Michelin Guide to restaurants in Tokyo had awarded our distant sister city a mind-boggling total of 191 stars (compared to 65 in Paris and 54 in New York), the Gobbler had to admit that those crazy fools might be on to something. Not long ago, we spent a week rampaging through Tokyo in a kind of epicurean daze. The Gobbler still isn’t sure exactly what he consumed (fugu sperm sacks, possibly; grilled chicken uterus, definitely; a very nice chocolate éclair flavored with bamboo), but one thing’s for sure. It was all pretty damn good. Here are a few rules for eating yourself silly in that great restaurant mecca, Tokyo, Japan.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/20/07

3:25 PM

‘GQ’ Names David Chang Chef of the Year

Stop and smell the kudos, David!Photo: Wireimage

GQ's Men of the Year issue is hot off the presses, and you can probably guess who their Chef of the Year is: none other than soup sachem David Chang. It's got to feel good to the Momofuku Man, but we wonder if he might be experiencing a little anxiety as well. The most recent deluge of media love has been largely in response to the top-notch work Chang and co-chefs Joaquin Baca and Tien Ho pulled off in opening the justly popular Ssäm Bar, and Chang could be staking his good name on the success of his forthcoming Ko. Ko will have to be phenomenal (and, let's be honest, it very well could be) to shield him from what could be some backlash against the flood of praise bestowed upon the young chef in the past year. At any rate, you've got to admire Chang's willingness to rise above the Momofuku/Ssäm love parade and take his game to the next level. Between now and the time Ko opens, we hope he lets himself bask in the glow for a few minutes.

Year of the Pig [GQ]
Related: Yet More Kudos for David Chang!

Neighborhood Watch 

11/ 8/07

3:00 PM

Green Greek Comes to Flatiron; Thanksgiving Eats Aplenty

Chelsea: Bottlerocket Wine & Spirit will present a free Thanksgiving 101 wining and dining seminar on Saturday, November 17, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. that will be catered by City Bakery and feature chef Don Pintabona of Dani, pastry chef Nancy Olson of Gramercy Tavern and chef Galen Zamarra from Mas (farmhouse), giving cooking tips in addition to the requisite wine tasting. [Grub Street]
East Village: Chikalicious will be serving on Thanksgiving, if you’d like to pass up a traditional feast for a $12 tasting of “warm cornmeal pound cake with corn ice cream and a duo of grapes in Moscato d’Asti.” [Restaurant Girl] The new and improved Momofuku Noodle Bar now features soft-serve ice cream served in brownie-stuffed cones. [Eater]
Financial District: Blue Ribbon Sound on Ann Street is a recording studio brought to you from the restaurant group of the same name because the owners of the sushi houses and bakeries around town are also “dedicated to high quality sound production in a comfortable and professional environment.” [Down by the Hipster]
Flatiron: Parea will be remade into a rustic Greek eatery, with an organic menu and green architecture. [Restaurant Girl]
Flushing: Sai Bhavan Snack & Sweets at 141-20 Holly Avenue is a good place to find vegetarian South Indian fare to celebrate the India’s annual Festival of Lights. [Gothamist]
Harlem: The farmer’s market outside of Morningside Park at 110th Street and Manhattan Avenue on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. will close for the winter after November 17. [Uptown Flavor]
Midtown East: Alto has a special table for two that overlooks the dining room, but protocol for securing the prized seating remains hazy. [Eater]

Mediavore 

11/ 2/07

10:00 AM

New Momofuku(s) Opening Next Week; Meryl Streep to Play Julia Child

Momofuku Noodle Bar 2.0 is set to open Tuesday, which by David Chang’s accounts should mean Ko will be raised in one night and ready by Wednesday in the original’s former space. [Eater]
Related: Keeping Up With the Momofukus

Food & Wine questions whether Meryl Streep can carry the role of their “Patron Saint” Julia Child, though they have hope from a scene in The Hours in which the actress “deftly separated egg whites from egg yolks by letting the whites run through her fingers.” [Mouthing Off/Food&Wine]

Hudson Valley is the largest foie gras producer in the country so even though 15,000 breeding ducks were killed in a fire this week, it “shouldn’t seriously affect production,” says Frank Bruni. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/29/07

10:00 AM

Chang Has Big Dreams for Vegas; Nobu to Cater

David Chang plans to open a Momofuku in Vegas where everyone “wants you to do well. [And] there are no government officials who go after you and none of the bull[bleep] that’s in New York City.” [NYP]

Nobu heads to the Sundance Film Festival this January as the first push to establish a catering arm of the company. [NYP]

Gordon Ramsay at the London, Insieme, and Toloache are some of the newer restaurants spicing up pre-theater dining. [NYT]

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

10/19/07

2:44 PM

Last Weekend at Red Hook Ball Fields; RUB Introduces Frito Pie to Chelsea

Astoria: You can ask the chefs from Bistro 33, at 19-33 Ditmars Boulevard, to prepare a special tasting menu — but be sure to request the chocolate-espresso-stout ice cream served on a warm fudge brownie for dessert. [Joey in Astoria]
Chelsea: RUB has introduced the “open-face” and “sloppy” grease fest that is Frito pie to its menu and it’s best inhaled with a kindred Texas brew. [Gothamist]
East Village: David Chang is looking for one experienced cook to join his team for Momofuku Ko, "a very unique operation, with the possibility of no servers." [Eat for Victory/VV]
Greenwich Village: Anita Lo has released a recipe for Rickshaw Dumpling Bar’s kimchee-and-tofu dumplings. [Restaurant Girl]
Red Hook: This is the last Sunday of the season for the ball-fields vendors. [Eat for Victory/VV]

Mediavore 

9/13/07

10:01 AM

Bourdain: I Am Not the Guy You Saw Last Night; Momo Boxes Now Available

Bourdain says he’s not the asshole he looked like on Top Chef last night. [Bravo]

In Momo news, David Chang has started serving bento-like Momo Boxes during lunch at Ssäm Bar. [Eat for Victory/VV]

Bobby Flay’s Bolo is about to be flattened to make way for more real estate. The 22nd Street curse continues! [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

The Other Critics 

9/ 5/07

11:15 AM

Richman Flings Feces at Monkey Bar; Soto Drops the Sushi Ball

Alan Richman gives it to Monkey Bar, and means it to stick. He gets that the place is supposed to be fun, but the bottom line is that the food sucks: “The dishes are incoherent and the food is thuddingly heavy. No focus. No finesse. Lots of salt.” [Bloomberg]

Soto seems to have shot itself in the foot, dazzling Frank Bruni with its composed dishes, “vibrantly seasoned and intricately composed works of culinary and visual art,” but disappointing with the sushi, and screwing up the service (proof that lack of anonymity doesn’t matter). Now they have to settle for the same catchall two-star rating as Franny’s. [NYT]

Randall Lane seems to have bestowed four (of six) stars on Wakiya more out of a sense of duty than anything else — the restaurant described in his review sounds infuriatingly stuck-up, and the food, by his account, spotty at best. Wakiya is still getting the benefit of the doubt, but it can’t hold up for long. Something tells us that a slam is coming. [TONY]
Related: We Catch Wakiya’s First Guests on the Street

Read more»

In the Magazine 

8/27/07

1:00 PM

Summer Ends and Life Begins Again, In Restaurant World

Ducasse and Boulud

Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud, by the glass.Photos: Mackenzie Stroh

Forget Openings. Forget reviews. Forget the Short List (more or less). The summer and its indolent desolation is over at last. The restaurant world prepares for its yearly rebirth, and its nocturnal flower is set to blossom. Fall Preview is here. And any New Yorker not currently in an intensive care unit should hasten to read every word.

Read more»

Foodievents 

8/20/07

11:11 AM

Meatopia V: Grilled Gore and Guts

Mr. Cutlets

Mr. Cutlets approves this menu!Courtesy of Josh Ozersky

The response to our Meatopia V contest has been overwhelming. Grub Street is populated by committed carnivores who have filled our meat cooler with brilliant ideas for next year’s edible animal gala. We’ll highlight some of the best throughout the day and announce the winners tomorrow. (Entry deadline is 6 p.m. today.) Here are three of our favorites.

Read more»

Openings 

8/14/07

4:20 PM

A Japanese Mercenary Enters Noodle War

Ichiran ramen

Ramen invades Greenpoint.Courtesy of Ichiran Ramen

Can New York support a troop surge in the ramen wars? A Chowhound poster recently reported that an Ichiran ramen shop would open in Greenpoint. While Ramen Setagaya and Momofuku vie for soup-bowl supremacy, Ichiran, one of Japan’s top ramen chains, is making its entry in an area better known for tenements and pork stores.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

7/ 2/07

3:30 PM

Is Setagaya the Romulus of Ramen?

Only empty because Momofuku called in a bomb scare. (Just kidding!)Photo: RJ Mickelson

When we announced the opening of Setagaya, the new ramen spot’s manager Charlie Huh insisted his product was more authentic than that of nearby Momofuku, prompting David Chang to post a snarky sign bragging that his noodles were made with 90 percent American ingredients. The joke, however, may be on Chang: Last Saturday at 9:45 p.m., we were told the wait at Setagaya was 30 minutes, with fifteen people (almost all of them of the Asian persuasion) lined up at the door. At Momofuku, the wait was only 20 to 25 minutes, and there were a measly eight gaijin milling about. We’ll continue to check in throughout the week, though only time will tell whether Setagaya is truly top ramen — after all, you don’t see people lining up at Beard Papa anymore.

Earlier: New East Village Ramen Spot Insists It’s More Authentic Than Momofuku
Related: Ramen War Brewing in East Village: Momofuku 1, Setagaya 1 [Eater]

Neighborhood Watch 

6/25/07

3:54 PM

Ramen Rivalry About to Boil Over in the East Village?

Astoria: All pints of Lagunitas beer will be $4 tonight at Sunswick on 35th Avenue at 35th Street. The bar food is supposedly pretty good, too. [Joey in Astoria]
Clinton Hill: Don’t get too excited over that fancy new organic market going up on Lexington Avenue near Grand Avenue; it’s part of a set for a Steve Martin flick. [Clinton Hill Blog]
East Village: Momofuku responds to Setagaya’s claims that its ramen is more authentic… [Eater] And the Tokyo-based chain has already lured crowds of diners — and impressed them. [Eat for Victory/VV] The Sunday Greenmarket now has a Hamptons-based fishmonger. [Gothamist]
Harlem: Fishers of Men has expanded to 125th Street, and rather than oust Papaya King from the space, the seafood restaurant has opted to share it. [Uptown Flavor]
McCarren Park: JellyNYC’s summer pool parties kicked off the series this weekend with dodgeball, Slip 'n Slide, Brooklyn Beer, and grilled grub (and we have video). [Down by the Hipster]
Midwood: DiFara is once again up and running. [Slice]
Park Slope: Union Market will bring its fresh produce to a long-empty storefront on Seventh Avenue, but there’s concern over nearby mom-and-pop grocers. [The Brooklyn Paper]
Ridgewood: Butcher Karl Ehmer inspired such love of meat in a young girl that she now sells meat-inspired pillows to “hipsters, artists and Western Europeans.” [The Food Section]

Openings 

6/19/07

11:00 AM

New East Village Ramen Spot Insists It’s More Authentic Than Momofuku

You probably won't be hearing Pavement songs here.Photo: RJ Mickelson

Aside from David Cross’s favorite, Minca, Momofuku pretty much has the lock on the ramen market. But this Wednesday Setagaya, the first U.S. outpost of a beloved Tokyo chain (more of them will pop up here and in Boston) will go up against the Goliath with what manager Charlie Huh insists is 100 percent natural ramen made from 90 percent Japanese ingredients. Asked about Momofuku, Huh says, “They get mostly American customers. Japanese people do not go to that place. They’re pretty good — but we can do much, much better.”

Read more»

The Gobbler 

4/26/07

5:00 PM

This Is Why New York’s Not Hot

The question the Gobbler gets asked more than any other is “What’s hot?” And for a several months now, the Gobbler has answered, with tedious regularity, “Nothing.” People are still clawing their way into Waverly Inn, and if you enjoy offal products done up in an elegant, Asian-fusion style, Momofuku Ssäm Bar is the place for you. But the grandiose cycle of openings which began with the arrival of Masa and Per Se at the Time Warner Center four years ago and reached a crescendo early last year with the giant Meat District extravaganzas like Buddakan and Del Posto has more or less petered out. Sure, there have a been a few tepid revivals (the Russian Tea Room), and bigfoot out-of-town chefs like Joël Robuchon and Gordon Ramsay have opened franchise outlets. There are plenty of restaurants in town, and plenty of them are busy. But this most recent boom may have run its course. Here are some possible reasons why.

Read more»

Foodievents 

1/31/07

9:00 AM

Almost as Good as Rodney Dangerfield: Back to School With Culinary Stars

The Insatiable Gourmet herself, Gael Greene.Photo: Patrick McMullan

This spring — a season which we’re glad to remind ourselves of as we enter drab February — the Institute of Culinary Education will be offering a roster of recreational classes that we heartily recommend, despite the fact that (full disclosure) self-deprecating Grub Street editor Josh Ozersky will be teaching one. Many friends of Grub Street — and a colleague, Gael Greene, who will head up “An Evening of Excess” — will be passing along wisdom on everything from blintzes to methylcellulose.

Read more»

Back of the House 

11/28/06

11:00 AM

Sbarro Disappears Into the Corporate Maw

Don't you just love man in uniform, stuffing his face?Photo: Mark Peterson/Corbis

Given how generic and fast food–y Sbarro is, news that the Long Island–based chain was just bought by a private-equity firm probably isn't breaking too many hearts. But believe it or not, the Sbarro family has owned and operated the business for the last 50 years; it now joins Nathan's, Blimpie's, Carvel, and a growing number of other New York–area businesses run as franchise "brands" from a central office. At this rate, we could be seeing Carnegie Delis and Momofukus in food courts across the country. Or perhaps we're just lapsing into fantasy again.

MidOcean Partners Announces Agreement to Acquire Sbarro, Inc. [New York dBusiness News]

Back of the House 

11/27/06

9:00 AM

New York Chefs Tell of Nightmarish Beginnings

Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan's fine new book, How I Learned to Cook, is a collection of first-person accounts of celebrated chefs' rocky beginnings. Some of the best chapters are by New York cooks: Andrew Carmellini of A Voce, Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune, David Chang of Momofuku and Ssäm Bar, and Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin. In case you have any doubts about adding it to your Amazon wish list, here's a breakdown of the hometown highlights.

Read more»