
Maybe if he could get a seat at Ko...Photo: Hulton Archive / Getty Images
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Maybe if he could get a seat at Ko...Photo: Hulton Archive / Getty Images

Ramen in the morning, ramen in the evening…Photo: IStockphoto
The Best Ramen in the Big Apple [Gridskipper]
Related: Ramen War Intensifies With Hakata Ippudo
Best Ramen [NYM]
The view at Chop Suey is worth a star in itself to Frank Bruni, which is a good thing, because the food is “an uneven mash of inspiration and clumsiness.” [NYT]
Restaurant Girl is happy to have Eighty One on the Upper West Side; if only they did a better job with seafood, she would have been able to give it more than two stars. [NYDN]
Randall Lane is done messing around. This week, South Gate feels his wrath for “mediocre” food such as “gravy sporting the kind of congealed film I associate with bad TV dinners.” Two stars (out of six)! [TONY]

Martha rocks her Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ3 at a party for Last Supper.Melissa Hom

Subject is playing footsie with date…has refused bread service…Photo: iStockphoto
The uses for the surveillance differ from restaurant to restaurant — Daniel uses it to monitor service, Phillipe staffers are rumored to ogle make-out sessions, Momofuku Noodle Bar peers at God knows what — but the fact remains the same: Keep your hands to yourself and don’t get out of line. Big Brother is watching you from the kitchen.
Entree View [NYP]

"Second midday snack: some 33-cent Drake’s oatmeal cookies."Melissa Hom

If this man walks into your kebab house, watch out!Photo: Gothamist

Mesa Grill loses a star, but this is one of the worst one-star reviews you'll ever read, even going so far as to compare it to gulag gourmet: “During one dinner the three slivers of chicken in the appetizer tacos were among the most shriveled, desiccated pieces of meat I’ve seen outside a bodega buffet at 3 a.m.” [NYT]
Related: Salute the Gulag Gourmet Movement
Now this is something cheering: Alan Richman found a tablecloth restaurant that got him genuinely excited. Dovetail's food, he says approvingly, is “exuberant and shocking” — in a good way. [Bloomberg]
Paul Adams hits Cooper Tavern, a not particularly ambitious hotel restaurant recently given a "meh" review by Frank Bruni, and likes it a little better, although the fries are “pathetically poor” and the pork chop is “hardly going to be the talk of the city's pork chop grapevine.” We can testify that that part is true. [NYS]

Frank Bruni pens one of his best zero-star reviews ever in putting down Harry Cipriani, hard: “The crime that comes to mind first when I think of the Ciprianis is highway robbery. Based on my recent experience, that’s what happens almost any time Harry Cipriani on Fifth Avenue serves lunch or dinner.” Brillo-like potatoes? $23 for asparagus? Bruni makes 'em pay. [NYT]
Market Table gets two and a half stars from Restaurant Girl, who praises the solid American cooking and buys into the overall concept. We wondered if MT wouldn't be the restaurant that absorbed the Haute Barnyard backlash, but it seems to have dodged it so far. [NYDN]
Paul Adams hits Tailor and delivers the most intelligently rendered version of what seems to be the verdict on the place: The food is brilliant but spotty, and the drinks are great. [NYS]
Some desserts you’ll be able to try when Will Goldfarb starts serving at the new Dessert Studio at Michel Cluizel this Saturday include “white chocolate gelato drizzled with olive oil; Indonesian vanilla ice cream with American caviar; and chocolate-hazelnut cake with apricots and brown sugar ice.” Okay, we need to take a cold shower. [NYT]
Related: Cluizel, Goldfarb to Join Forces in Dessert Pact
1OAK really is close to opening, maybe two or three weeks according to one random construction worker — or is that four to six weeks? [Imbible/Citysearch]
Related: Until 1OAK Opens, Look for Richie Akiva at Scores
New French wine bar Solex is shaping up to be in competition with Momofuku 2.0 for the title of late-night chef hangout. [Mouthing Off/Food&Wine]

Is it the soup? Or is the line for the soup?Photo: Melissa Hom
Momofuku Noodle Bar 2.0 Definitely Opens Tomorrow [Eater]
Related: Keeping Up With The Momofukus [NYM]

This is your tongue on Umami.Photo: npr.com
Momofuku Noodle Bar 2.0 is set to open Tuesday, which by David Chang’s accounts should mean Ko will be raised in one night and ready by Wednesday in the original’s former space. [Eater]
Related: Keeping Up With the Momofukus
Food & Wine questions whether Meryl Streep can carry the role of their “Patron Saint” Julia Child, though they have hope from a scene in The Hours in which the actress “deftly separated egg whites from egg yolks by letting the whites run through her fingers.” [Mouthing Off/Food&Wine]
Hudson Valley is the largest foie gras producer in the country so even though 15,000 breeding ducks were killed in a fire this week, it “shouldn’t seriously affect production,” says Frank Bruni. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]
A food bazaar in Turin, Italy, called Eataly, which combines a “European open market, a Whole-Foods-style supermarket, a high-end food court and a New Age learning center” is opening its second location in a 10,000-square-foot space on 18 West 48th Street. [NYT]
Despite David Chang’s unwavering confidence that Noodle Bar 2.0 would open early this week, the restaurant’s not yet ready; he blames Con-Ed. [Eater]
Women chefs who’ve found success aren’t hard to come by in New York, according to Cuozzo, who mentions at least two examples. [NYP]
Related: A Woman’s Place? [NYM]
The Post goes on to blame Patricia Yeo for Monkey Bar’s failure. [NYP]
East Village: David Chang plans on wasting no time turning Momofuku Noodle Bar into Momofuku Ko next month: The place won't close for even much a day but rather will morph overnight into its new identity. [Grub Street]
Related: Keeping Up With the Momofukus
Flatiron: Cookbook editor Judith Jones will lead a discussion and wine tasting at Bottlerocket Wine & Spirit on October 24 from 6 to 8 p.m. [Grub Street]
Fort Greene: On Saturday evenings the gourmet shop L’Epicerie turns into “a $40 per head, BYOB, family-style restaurant offering a casually sophisticated take on the dinner party.” [NYO]
Midtown: All the wines by the glass at Artisanal will be half off after 10 p.m., starting next week. [Grub Street]
Red Hook: The bar-robbing thugs who held up Bait & Tackle bartenders at gunpoint have been apprehended. [Eater]
Times Square: The Palm West will be serving a Purple Martini this season that includes some new liquor that to our knowledge does not include grape juice. [Grub Street]

Chefs whites on red carpets is never a good sign.Photo: Patrick McMullan

A ramen only a college student can love.Photo courtesy Gold St.
“I don’t believe in that whole superstar celebrity-chef thing,” David Chang says in an adoring Times profile. Side note: A Momofuku may indeed open in Las Vegas. [NYT]
Related: The I Chang [NYM]
At a book signing at Borders, Marco Pierre White responds to Gordon Ramsay’s admission that he stole White’s reservation book some years ago: “That just shows what kind of person Gordon is. He’s a liar, a thief, and a huckster.” [Serious Eats]
Related: Batali, Bourdain, and Ramsay Mentor to Finally Take on America? [Grub Street]
Which won’t get in the way of Ramsay's selling the movie rights to his life story: “I've been approached by some amazing guys who see it as a kind of Billy Elliot–style film, only with chef’s whites instead of ballet shoes. The climax will be our young hero picking up his first Michelin star.” We’re already tearing up. [Digital Spy]

And this is him when he's happy! But we still love the guy.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Relief is in site for the crowds at Momofuku.Photo: Melissa Hom
Earlier:
And the Tablecloths Burn
Is Momofuku Finally Pregnant With Another Location?
Related: The I Chang [NYM]
The James Beard Awards after-parties presented special challenges which could only be solved by the liberal use of an open bar. The place to go was the Hawaiian Tropic Zone, whose bikini-clad waitresses and go-go dancers, serving at the behest of chef David Burke, provided a welcome dose of vulgarity after the high-class Beard gala. But the truly hot ticket was the Momofuku party bus, which, if David Chang & Co. were to be believed, was a chartered party vehicle where the most intense celebrating would be done. Regretfully, though, it was closed to press. “Sorry, dude,” David Chang told us, dazed and blissful and still unbelieving in the wake of his victory.
A new Momofuku won't be this empty for long.Photo: Kenneth Chen
Related: The I Chang [NYM]

Like, shouldn't there be a mural there or something?Photo: Shanna Ravindra

This many people love you.Momofuku: Bumblebee Studios; Babbo photo courtesy Babbo.
Dear R,
It just so happens that the Underground Gourmet recommended a “breakup burger” yesterday. But if you’re not simply looking to drown your sorrows in a “ripe slab of Limburger cheese and a pile of chopped raw onion,” may we suggest the following candidates, each perfect, in different ways, for solo dining.

"I usually cook for myself once a week, barely."Photo: Melissa Hom
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