All 'morandi' Posts on Grub Street - New York Magazine's Daily Food Blog

NewsFeed

6/17/08

5:00 PM

Bobby Flay Refuses to Eat Brains

On Serious Eats today, Bobby Flay touts some favorite local spots: Morandi’s brunch, Balthazar’s and Momofuku Ssäm’s late-night menus, JG Melon’s burger, and the ice-cream sundae at Shake Shack. The one thing he won’t eat? “Brains.”

More: NewsFeed »babbo, balthazar, bobby flat, brains, chez napoleon, jg melon, momofuku ssam, morandi, shake shack

NewsFeed

5/27/08

6:00 PM

Jody Williams Reported Out at Morandi

The Great Memorial Day chef purge has claimed another victim, as Jody Williams is being reported out at Morandi on Eater. There is no official statement, but the blog claims that it is “double-confirmed” direct from Keith McNally, and that the chef’s replacement is Tony Liu, of August. That makes a lot of sense, as Liu’s modern Mediterranean food has been wildly popular with demanding West Village crowds at August, and those are more or less the same people whom McNally wants to go to Morandi. Williams was considered on shaky ground after a spate of mixed reviews when the restaurant opened, but things had supposedly stabilized, and the news comes as something of a shock, at least to us. Expect official statements soon.

Double Breaking BLOCKBUSTER: Jody Williams Out at Morandi [Eater]

More: NewsFeed »august, jody williams, keith mcnally, morandi, tony liu, west village

NewsFeed

4/24/08

3:30 PM

Abbe Diaz Accuses Eater of Morandi Favoritism

Diaz arch-nemesis Ben Leventhal, of Eater.Photo: Patrick McMullan

In addition to bringing news that the Cain team is taking over Montauk’s 32-room Surf Lodge (Bar! Hot tubs! Outdoor deck!), Steve Lewis interviews industry veteran and PX This author and forum moderator Abbe Diaz today. After about two pages of inane flirtation, Steve and Abbe get into the meat of her feud with Eater, whose EIC, Ben Leventhal, she calls “a giant ass.” These blog wars can be a little confusing, so we’ve revealed specific names in brackets and added links for ease of reading.

More: NewsFeed »abbe diaz, ben leventhal, eater, morandi

Two for Eight

4/23/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Morandi and Insieme; Del Posto and Il Buco Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Haute Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, del posto, felidia, i trulli, Il Buco, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

NewsFeed

4/21/08

11:05 AM

Mitchell Davis Stands Up for Morandi in ‘The Art of Eating’

Ed Behr's The Art of Eating strikes again.

We never could figure out why critics were so underwhelmed with Morandi when it opened. Not that Keith McNally’s foray into Italian food was exactly slammed, but it got no hint of the love with which all his other restaurants are uniformly showered. Was Morandi the Cable Guy of the McNally canon? An essay by James Beard Foundation VP Mitchell Davis in the new issue of The Art of Eating argues that Morandi is a victim of a double standard: Critics, he says, “evaluate French restaurants and food against an arbitrary standard of tradition or classicism, while judging Italian restaurants and food against an equally arbitrary standard of authenticity.” There might be something to Davis’ point — a lot of ink was spilled on Morandi’s phony-baloney qualities, when they were, after all, meant to be transparent. In any case, the piece is a discerning meta-review and thoughtful in a way typical of The Art of Eating, an obscure but admirable publication unfortunately not available online. With their permission, though, we're including a PDF of the essay so you can read it in full.

New York: Variations on a Theme Restaurant [PDF]

More: NewsFeed »balthazar, ed behr, james beard awards, keith mcnally, mitchell davis, morandi, the art of eating

Celebrity Settings

3/18/08

11:00 AM

Ethan Hawke Hits Qdoba; ‘Beverly Hills 90210’ Reunion at D'Or

Clearly misses Benny's Burritos.Photo: Getty Images

Last week Todd Barry told us he was a Chipotle man and we noted that a couple of respected chefs were too — but it seems Ethan Hawke, for one, prefers naked burritos to burrito bols, if a recent sighting at Qdoba Mexican Grill is any indicator. Are notable New Yorkers embracing casual dining chains? Lizzie Grubman did take her client Tailor Made to, um, the Olive Garden…

Two for Eight

12/20/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at A Voce and Insieme; Il Buco Mostly Booked

It's 4:30 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, del posto, felidia, i trulli, il buco, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

Celebrity Settings

12/11/07

3:30 PM

Ben Stiller Crashes a Party at Fiamma, Penélope Cruz Makes Out at Socialista

She only got in because she knows Javier Bardem.Photo: WireImages

Every Friday a notable New Yorker tells us where they’ve been eating, but where are the rest of them chowing down? Starting this week we’ll sort through the gossip columns à la Ils Vont (RIP) to tell you who’s been seen where (casual sightings only — boring galas, vodka launches, and pluggy appearances don’t count). We’ll eventually compile a ranking of restaurants most often visited by celebs. Not that you care about that sort of thing! Oh, but if you do, won’t you please leave your own sightings in the comments?

Two for Eight

12/ 3/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at i Trulli and Insieme; Il Buco Mostly Booked

It's 4:30 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, del posto, felidia, i trulli, il buco, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

Neighborhood Watch

11/20/07

2:59 PM

Jody Williams's Wine Bar Serving in the West Village

Greenwich Village: Send off truffle fever with a wine-sodden bang at Babbo’s December 3 Vintage series, which includes a white-truffle tasting menu with wine pairings discussed by Peter Jamros. [Grub Street]
Hell’s Kitchen: Kyotofu is hosting a seven-course dinner-and-dessert sake pairing tonight at 7 p.m. [Grub Street]
Midtown West: The Frederick’s space on West 58th Street will be transformed into Jour et Nuit, a French-American bistro offering, you guessed it, brasserie classics like croque monsieurs and moules frites. [Restaurant Girl]
Soho: Fiamma is a little too liberal with its "Napkins of Shame," which according to Bruni are a "bit of patchwork that makes the table look clean again" to the embarrassment of the messy diner. The critic was subjected to one himself while on a date. [Diner’s Journal/NYT] The Vosges bacon-chocolate bar is accused of not reaching its potential and tasting "more like the barnyard than the pig and more like the rubber tree than the cocoa pod." [Chop Talk/Epicurious]
West Village: Jody Williams is previewing her new enoteca and salumeria Gottino at Greenwich Avenue near Perry Street. [Eater] The chef’s main stage, Morandi, is also serving a Thanksgiving dinner of rosemary roasted turkey with fennel and bruschetta stuffing. Those looking for turkey alternatives can arrive early for regular breakfast. [Grub Street]

More: Neighborhood Watch »babbo, bruni, fiamma, frederick's, gottino, greenwich village, gusto, hell's kitchen, midtown west, morandi, soho, thanksgiving dining, vintage babbo, west village

Two for Eight

11/12/07

4:35 PM

Tables Available at Abbocato and Morandi; Babbo Mostly Booked

It's 4:30 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, babbo, del posto, felidia, i trulli, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

Two for Eight

10/24/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Morandi and San Domenico; Del Posto Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, del posto, felidia, i trulli, il buco, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

Two for Eight

10/ 5/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at A Voce and Abboccato; Babbo Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, babbo, del posto, felidia, i trulli, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

NewsFeed

10/ 5/07

2:24 PM

McNally Unites With the Workers of the World

Purveyor of cruelty-free caviar.Photo: Patrick McMullan

Keith McNally can appreciate the effectiveness of a good rally — you’ll recall he personally protested the billboard that’s going up atop the Gansevoort Hotel. So when workers rallied outside of Pastis over the restaurant’s use of provisions from Wild Edibles (which has been sued over allegations of unpaid overtime), you can bet McNally listened. Brandworkers International announced today that Balthazar, Schiller’s, Morandi, Pravda, and Lucky Strike will no longer use products from the company until the dispute is resolved. Comrade McNally, we’re heading to Pravda right now to toast you with a horseradish-and-poached-egg martini.

Earlier: Wild Edibles Gets Caught in the Net of the Law

More: NewsFeed »balthazar, keith mcnally, lucky strike, morandi, pastis, pravda, wild edibles

Two for Eight

9/20/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Abboccato and I Trulli; Morandi Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, abboccato, babbo, del posto, felidia, i trulli, insieme, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

NewsFeed

8/24/07

9:30 AM

Chef Roman à Clef: “I'm Not Abbe”

Keith/George and Jody/Cory.Photo: Patrick McMullan (McNally) and Johnny Miller (Williams)

Yesterday we speculated that Sympathy for the Restaurant Industry — a new site that is fictionalizing restaurant-industry players — was the work of PXThis blogger Abbe Diaz. The pillorying of Sam Mason, Keith McNally, et al sounded pretty much like e-mails from Abbe. But the author insists to us: “No, I’m not Abbe. She's the original, the godmother of restaurant blogs and general awesomeness. I'm not worthy.” Hmm — suspiciously high praise.

NewsFeed

8/23/07

2:42 PM

Chef Roman à Clef Continues; Keith McNally Pilloried

Keith McNally, or George Wentworth?Photo: Patrick McMullan

Yesterday we treated you to the first chapter of a story seemingly based on Sam Mason and his trials and travails with Tailor. We can now confirm, after contacting the author — who is remaining anonymous (even to us!) because he or she is “notorious within the industry” — that the story is based on Mason and Johnny Iuzzini as well as other players. “Yes, I plan on continuing,” assures the well-connected scribe, “and yes, I have inside info. I’ve been getting a lot of mail, but I would never run anything that I hadn’t triple-checked to be true.”

More: NewsFeed »abbe diaz, keith mcnally, morandi, paul liebrandt, sympathy for the restaurant industry

Two for Eight

8/16/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at San Domenico and Enoteca i Trulli; Babbo Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, f. illi ponte ristorante, felidia, i trulli, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

VideoFeed

8/10/07

11:00 AM

Jody Williams Knows What to Do (and Not) With an Artichoke

“I get a kick out of things that are so easy,” says Jody Williams, whose raw-artichoke salad at Morandi basically consists of the vegetable, some lemon juice, olive oil, and good cheese. Sometimes, especially in Italian cooking, the smartest thing a chef can do is get out of the way. Williams demonstrates the best possible method for making a perfect, simple summer dish in this Grub Street video.

Related: In Season: Local Artichokes [NYM]

More: VideoFeed »artichokes, italian, jody williams, morandi, west village

Two for Eight

8/ 1/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at San Domenico and L’Impero; Morandi Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, f. illi ponte ristorante, felidia, i trulli, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

The New York Diet

7/27/07

6:00 AM

Designer Cynthia Rowley Indulges in Super-Cheesy ‘Afternoon Delights’

"My hubby and I go to Tartine. I call it my afternoon delight."Photo: Courtesy of Cynthia Rowley

Cynthia Rowley may be one of the most recognizable names in fashion (this week she returned to Design Star as a judge, and next month she’ll launch Avon’s first designer colors line), but that doesn’t stop her from surreptitiously approaching restaurant diners when she spots them wearing her clothes. “It’s exciting,” she says. “I tell them, ‘Wow, that dress looks great on you.’” So what does she eat when she’s out on the town? And during hectic preparations for Fashion Week, how hard does she try to live up to her childhood nickname, Slim (the title of her recently published “fantasy memoir”)? We were relieved to discover she’s actually a voracious eater.

More: The New York Diet »amy's bread, bonsignour, cynthia rowley, gemma, morandi, panino giusto, sean macpherson, tartine

Two for Eight

7/16/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Felidia; Babbo and Del Posto Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, f. illi ponte ristorante, felidia, i trulli, l'impero, morandi, san domenico

Two for Eight

6/29/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Morandi and Felidia; Babbo Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, enoteca i trulli, felidia, l'impero, maremma, morandi, san domenico, sfoglia

Two for Eight

6/22/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at the Inn LW12 and Insieme; Rosanjin Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Recently reviewed by Adam Platt.

More: Two for Eight »15 east, anthos, e.u., gramercy tavern, insieme, mai house, morandi, the inn, wild salmon

6/14/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at San Domenico; A Voce Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet Italian.

Two for Eight

6/ 7/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and E.U.; Morandi Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Recently reviewed by Adam Platt.

More: Two for Eight »15 east, anthos, e.u., gramercy tavern, insieme, morandi, the inn lw12 mai house, wild salmon

Two for Eight

5/30/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Maremma and i Trulli; Felidia Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, felidia, i trulli, l'impero, maremma, morandi, san domenico, sfoglia

Mediavore

5/29/07

10:12 AM

Nello Buys ‘Page Six’ on the Cheap; Jody Williams Trying Not to Sweat It

Nello’s Nello Ballan gives Richard Johnson a $1,000 gift, and fifteen "Page Six" mentions of Ballan’s restaurant later, the embattled gossip column has the devil to pay. [NYT]

Jody Williams claims not to have read Frank Bruni’s review of Morandi, though she knows that people are laying odds on the date of her departure. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]
Related: Not So Bene [NYM]

Restaurant-industry lobbyists express a not-unexpected disappointment with the federal minimum-wage increase passed by Congress, finding it “entirely out of place” in a war-spending bill. [Nation's Restaurant News]

More: Mediavore »barbara kafka, beacon, crif dogs, hardee's, harlem, jody williams, labor, morandi, nello, page six, pdt, poultry, ramps, tom valenti, waldy malouf

Two for Eight

5/22/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Varietal; Gramercy Tavern Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Recently reviewed by Adam Platt.

More: Two for Eight »15 east, anthos, e.u., gramercy tavern, morandi, the inn lw12 mai house, varietal, wild salmon

Two for Eight

5/14/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Felidia and Maremma; Babbo Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Gourmet Italian.

More: Two for Eight »a voce, babbo, cesca, del posto, felidia, i trulli, l'impero, maremma, morandi, san domenico, sfoglia

Mediavore

5/ 9/07

10:32 AM

City Gears Up to Better Police Labor Violations; Beef Threatens Fish at Le Bernardin

City Council to introduce a bill giving authorities more power to crack down on restaurant labor violations like the alleged ones at Saigon Grill. [MetroNY]
Related: 100 Students to Protest Saigon Grill [Grub Street]

Kobe beef, having once appeared on Le Bernardin’s menu, is taking over and chasing the fish away – a fact chef Eric Ripert is less than thrilled about. [NYP]

Bizarre details of Mr. Chow’s abuse emerge from the lawsuit, including information about one employee who was forced to lie on the floor and be menaced and even kicked by the diminutive restaurateur. [Gawker]

Beef

5/ 8/07

2:14 PM

McNally Takes a Cheap Shot at Bruni

Did Keith McNally really have to go there?Photo: Patrick McMullan

In yet another retributive strike by a restaurateur against Frank Bruni (Jeffrey Chodorow's much-discussed broadside being the first), Morandi owner Keith McNally has planted a letter with Eater accusing the Times critic of being biased against woman chefs. “Bruni had never given a female chef in Manhattan anything more than one star, ever,” McNally writes. The complaint goes on for a long time and seems unlike McNally, who has almost always stayed above the fray. What’s especially unseemly is the way the letter dwells on Bruni’s attitude toward gender (“…when the chef is a man Bruni often makes quite a song and dance about it.”) Given the amount of food-world speculation about Bruni’s sexual orientation, this seems like a low blow, especially since the Times’ review echoed a near-universal critical consensus about Morandi. Times dining editor Pete Wells, asked to comment about the letter, agrees, saying simply, “Frank’s review speaks for itself. Period.”

Keith McNally: Bruni Has 'Unremittingly Sexist Slant' [Eater]

More: Beef »eater,

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

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