Everyone seems to have forgotten about Oceana, Frank Bruni tells us, but it's still three-star good, thanks to the polyglot imagination of its new chef, Ben Pollinger: “Mr. Pollinger matches seafood with its adornments carefully and cunningly, taking into account not only the fish’s boldness and other intrinsic attributes but also the ethnic logic of it all.” [NYT]
Alan Richman, who eats a lot of hamburgers, uses his GQ column to announce his five favorite burgers in New York. To wit: the Shake Shack (“Not a great burger, but a very good one ”), Big Nick's (“surprisingly good ”), Blue Smoke (“A great burger … I recommend it rare and without toppings, about as high a compliment as I can pay”), the Burger Joint in the Parker Meridien (“A tour de force.”), and Peter Luger (“wonderful” meat on “the best burger bun in America”). [GQ]
Scarpetta has made some fans, but Paul Adams isn't one of them. It's not because of the room or the neighborhood either: He just found the food overly rich, monotonous, and disappointing. [NYS]
Related: Southern Italian [NYM]













