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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘sushi’

NewsFeed 

7/ 1/08

11:30 AM

Shiki Kitchen Shuttered by Department of Health (Updated)

shiki kitchen

Bad gas.Photo: Daniel Maurer

Shiki Kitchen, the precious Brazilian-themed sushi joint in the East Village, has been closed by the Department of Health. A sign on the window explains, “Due to the old Building there are gas leaking. We will be open SOON.” Here’s hoping none of the colorful pieces of origami on the walls, made by chef Shiki himself and often given to lucky customers while Shiki serenades them with “I Can’t Help Falling in Love With You,” have been compromised. Renovations are under way — we hope Shiki will reopen before this coupon for a $19.95 all-you-can-eat sushi meal expires on July 22.

Update: According to the DOH, the restaurant received 71 out of a possible 175 points on a June 11 inspection, for violations such as inadequate plumbing, improper pest control methods, and evidence of flies, mice, and rats. Shiki had better walk over to Veniero’s to ask them how to deal with this.

Chefwatch 

5/15/08

5:00 PM

Morimoto’s American Tag Team Have ‘Spirit and Heart’

jamison blankenship and robby cook

Jamison Blankenship, left, and Robby Cook, right: the men behind Morimoto.Photo: Melissa Hom

Each week, we highlight one (or, in this case, two) of the city’s great — but obscure — young chefs.

Names: Jamison Blankenship and Robert Cook

Age: 37 and 29, respectively

Restaurant: Morimoto

Backgrounds: Blankenship, Morimoto’s chef de cuisine, grew up in New Orleans, but didn't start in the restaurant business until he was 31. He worked in Washington’s famous Citronelle, and for two years had his own restaurant in D.C., before joining Morimoto as a sous-chef when it opened two years ago.

Cook, the restaurant's head sushi chef, had a Lana Turner moment as a sushi assistant at Koi: Masaharu Morimoto came in, saw Cook working the line, and offered him a job on the spot.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/ 5/08

12:00 PM

Don’t Tell Adam Platt, But Fugu Is Safe Now

fugu

Without the danger … this just looks unappetizing somehow.Photo: James Wojcik

Hot on the heels of Adam Platt’s death-defying trip to Japan to eat the potentially deadly fugu (blowfish) comes a piece in the Sunday Times on the very subject. It seems that the fugu farmers have this deadly-toxin thing licked, and that, with many of today’s new and improved fugu, you couldn’t get poisoned if you tried. (Platt actually knew about the safe fugu but hadn't come all the way to Japan to eat safe blowfish.) Of course, since fugu doesn’t taste like anything, that doesn’t give the world much reason to eat it. It’s a true paradox.

If the Fish Liver Can’t Kill, Is It Really a Delicacy? [NYT]
Related: To Die For [NYM]

Mediavore 

1/30/08

10:00 AM

EPA Joins Mercury Craze; A ‘Seinfeld’–Inspired Food Study

The Environmental Protection Agency is beginning to examine the mercury levels in the twenty most commonly eaten fish in the New York City region. [NYT]

Top Chef seductress/hostess Padma Lakshmi is moving into a full-floor loft in Alphabet City. [The Real Estate/NYO]

The holy triumvirate of burgers, fries, and milk shakes continues to dominate the nation's culinary imagination. [NRN]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

1/25/08

5:15 PM

Sushi Eaters Face Tuna Fears

Bluefin

Before it was caught, this bluefin tuna ate only
mercury.Photo: Getty Images

The Times tested the mercury levels in tuna sushi served at twenty different city stores and restaurants this week. At most of them, mercury levels exceeded those set by the Environmental Protection Agency. On Wednesday, New York’s Tim Murphy set out to see who in the city was still buying tuna sushi, and why.

6 p.m.: Whole Foods, Chelsea
Rebecca, a redheaded Web editor, is picking up salmon sushi. She’d noticed that the Times report found the highest mercury levels in tuna from Blue Ribbon and the lowest levels at Fairway. “People who eat high-class sushi are more at risk for poisoning than people like me who eat ghetto sushi from Whole Foods,” she said with some satisfaction.

Read more»

Mediavore 

1/25/08

10:00 AM

Huckabee Skips Sushi; Super Bowl Snacks Abound

Finally, the presidential candidates “respond” to the sushi crisis. Mike Huckabee’s stance? “Nowhere does the Bible mention sushi in the Garden of Eden.” [NYT]

If you’ve ever dreamed of being a Michelin Guide inspector, consider first that in a year “each inspector evaluates 240 restaurants, spends 130 nights in hotels, carries out 800 inspections, writes 1,100 reports and drives 18,000 miles.” [Guardian]

The international conservation group Oceana has issued a report saying that it found mercury levels in tuna sushi throughout the United States to be just as high as in New York’s supply. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

Mediavore 

1/23/08

10:00 AM

Calories to Show Up on Menus Starting March 31; Mercury Levels Horrifically High in Tuna Sushi

The Board of Health decided yesterday in a unanimous vote to make all chain restaurants with fifteen or more outlets – approximately 10 percent of the city’s restaurants – post calorie info on their menus starting March 31. RIP, 1,230-calorie triple Whopper with cheese. [CNN]

Laboratory tests run on sushi samples from twenty Manhattan stores and restaurants revealed shockingly high levels of mercury in bluefin tuna, so high that the FDA could technically take the fish off the market. And if you’ve got to have your tuna sushi, you’d best head to Fairway and avoid Blue Ribbon Sushi at all costs. [NYT]

Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl is “obsessed with” Momofuku Ssäm Bar, “like everyone else in New York,” according to her. [TONY]

Read more»

Mediavore 

1/ 9/08

10:00 AM

Danny Meyer Might Fix Up Union Square Park; Welcome to ‘Mexhattan’

Danny Meyer and the Union Square Partnership are planning to renovate the north end of Union Square Park, including a transformation of the decaying pavilion into a windowless restaurant space. [NYO]

Mia Dona, Donatella Arpaia and Michael Psilakis’s newest baby, will start serving up rustic Italian with Greek influences in midtown next month. Marc Forgione, most recently the corporate chef for the BLT Restaurant Group, is planning an American restaurant for a spring opening. [NYT]

Forget about bringing your junior gastronomes to the finest restaurant Disney World has to offer: Victoria & Albert’s has banned all kids under the age of 10. [NYP]

Read more»

Engines of Gastronomy 

10/26/07

5:35 PM

Tadashi Ono’s Sashimi Knife Isn’t As Big As It Used to Be

Fifteen years of hard use will wear you down.Photo: Melissa Hom

How does a chef who never cooks ply his craft? One who rarely comes near a pan or a pot? Who neither stirs a stew nor lards a roast? Ask a sushi chef, as proper sashimi preparation is one of the most prized of gastronomical arts. And the sushi chef’s most valued tool is his knife, says chef Tadashi Ono of Matsuri: “Knife skill is very fundamental, the most important skill.” Ono uses a Masamoto yanagi (sashimi knife) that he bought in Tokyo in 1992. It was originally 30 centimeters (nearly a foot) long, but years of daily sharpening along its right side (as Tadashi is right-handed) have reduced its length by a third, but the knife is still razor sharp. “The surface of the knife is extremely important,” Ono says. “Sashimi must have a silky texture. In Japanese cooking we don’t do much to the ingredients, so they have to be presented in the very best way possible. A coarser knife would leave the fish mushy.” Masamoto knives, manufactured in Ono’s hometown of Tokyo (“We love them because they are our native product”) can be purchased at Korin Trading Company for $232, for a very good knife, or $398, for one similar to the grade Ono uses. But there is no acquiring the fifteen years of hard practice; that you have to get yourself.

Back of the House 

7/ 9/07

2:59 PM

Two Sushi Scholars Knock the Scales Off Our Eyes

A chef at Masa: sacred fish priest or just another cook?Photo: Mark Peterson

We’ve let the cult of sushi impose itself upon us long enough: The mystical reverence stemming from rice and knives, the reverent hush of the omakase bar, the meticulous manners required of every procedure. We just read an exchange on Slate between Trevor Corson and Sasha Issenberg, the authors of The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, From Samurai to Supermarket, and The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy, respectively. Both men have studied the history of sushi and the burgeoning global sushi industry, and under their gaze some common myths about sushi simply disintegrate.

Read more»

Click and Save 

6/12/07

11:08 AM

Famous Rock Writer Delivers a Sushi Summa

Photo courtesy Vanity Fair

Nick Tosches, a writer best known for his books about the tormented inner lives of Jerry Lee Lewis, Dean Martin, and Sonny Liston, seems on the surface to be a weird choice to write about Tokyo’s Tsukiji seafood market and the world sushi trade. But Tosches’s article in this month’s issue of Vanity Fair should be required reading for anyone with even a passing interest in the subject. From its portrait of the market, which handles literally 4,000 times the amount of fish as the New Fulton Fish Market in the Bronx, to the elevation of bluefin tuna from its once-lowly status as an uncommercial “garbage fish,” to Tosches’s own twisted desire to eat the weirdest-looking thing he can find, the piece is wildly informative and has that slightly bent Tosches touch too.

If You Knew Sushi [Vanity Fair]

In the Magazine 

5/14/07

9:30 AM

Small Precious Pleasures in the New York Food World

Platt loves the silent, solitary art of sushi. Especially the silent part.Photo: RJ Mickelson

A trio of food events, some stinging nettles, and two very serious Japanese restaurants make up this week’s food news. Though the items may be few in number, the magazine’s contents carry a significant freight of good tidings. Adam Platt visits a modern sushi restaurant and an intimate Japanese kaiseki establishment, and finds both pleasingly stark and traditional, a welcome change from the big-box Asian behemoths of recent years. Sara Jenkins, formerly of Bread Tribeca, provides a similarly plain but elegant recipe for one of the spring’s most welcome greens, wild stinging nettles, which adorn a simple Tuscan bucatini dish. Last, this week’s Short List features three events which have nothing in common except all sounding absolutely delicious.

Read more»

What to Eat Tonight 

5/10/07

3:30 PM

Spring Vegetables Get the DeChellis Treatment at Sumile Sushi

Sushi even a vegetarian could love.Photo courtesy Sumile

Josh DeChellis’s Japanese-inspired cooking at Sumile Sushi is especially attuned to seasonality. Just look at tonight’s special, spring-vegetable sushi. Says DeChellis, “Spring’s first vegetables are so precious — just like the most prized fish of the sea — and deserve an equally simple preparation to highlight their annual arrival and delicate flavors.” Tonight’s vegetables include fresh wasabi peas, glazed spring onions, young Japanese peppers, steamed ramps, wild asparagus, enoki, water spinach and sesame, and daikon sprout “kimchee.” The special will change as it reappears from time to time throughout the spring, with different vegetables making guest appearances.

Openings 

5/ 1/07

2:00 PM

Soto’s Sushi, Straight Outta Atlanta

Who's going to tell them they forgot to take down the plywood?Photo: Melissa Hom

We don’t yet know what Soto’s menu has in store (they’re keeping it secret until they open), but it’s safe to say this is the biggest sushi opening to hit New York in a while — or so we gather from Rob and Robin’s story of how Sotohiro Kosugi built a national reputation from his original restaurant in an Atlanta strip mall. This week he tests the New York market for his inventive, complex food. If you don’t have the endurance for Kosugi’s fifteen-course, $80 tasting menu, ask about his omakase.

Openings: Soto, Grom, Vestry Wines [NYM]

NewsFeed 

3/14/07

5:08 PM

Vongerichten May Deep-Six 66, Serve Sushi and Soba Instead

Things look fine from down here in the gutter.Photo: Getty Images

Is 66, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s underperforming Chinese-themed outpost, closing? A restaurant consultant moving in international circles (whom we communicate with via self-destructing personal digital assistants) informs us that the superchef intends on partnering with a Japanese restaurant firm and executing a sushi-and-soba concept in the space. Vongerichten, meanwhile, tells us the story is “just a rumor,” and that he’s in fact considering a sushi-soba restaurant at another location. (Of course, closing announcements generally aren’t made until the last minute — they’re bad for business, and the staff needs to be told first.) Either way, we’re now craving Japanese.

What to Eat Tonight 

2/ 9/07

2:45 PM

Eat Bar Masa’s Fried Fugu — We Double-Dog Dare You

Lou Dobbs insists you put him down.Photo: Corbis

Fugu, or the flesh of the blowfish, can be deadly if prepared the wrong way, as anyone who has seen the Simpsons episode where Homer is given 24 hours to live after having it served to him by an inexperienced chef can attest. (Actually, he’s given 22 — says Dr. Hibbert: “I’m sorry I kept you waiting so long.”)

Read more»

Openings 

1/12/07

10:00 AM

You Bring the Booze; Micro Sushi Joint Brings the Sexy

Put your headlights on.Photo: Daniel Maurer

Note to new sushi joints: Why not skip the cookie-cutter blonde-wood stuff and get hyphy with it, like the two-week-old Genji? Chef Miji, who rolled rice in Tokyo for 30 years, can now be found wiggling to dreamy, upbeat J-pop behind the three-seat bar of his new restaurant, which is situated on the upwardly mobile, far-east stretch of 14th Street. Miji’s offering up heaping servings of sweet, chilled uni from California; Botan, a jumbo Japanese shrimp that’s split into a slithery sashimi tail and a salty tempura head; and a delicate mash of rock shrimp, salmon, and cod paste. For those disinclined to try the seafood, there’s also yakitori skewers and soba and udon soups. Genji’s four-month struggle for a wine and sake license isn’t resolved yet, so BYO. —Daniel Maurer

Genji Sushi, 424-A E. 14th St. at First Ave.; 212-388-1127

 

 

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