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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘truffles’

Mediavore 

6/20/08

10:00 AM

Cocktails Go Molecular; Hung Going to Bocuse d’Or?

• Oh, dear: “Molecular cocktails” — think watermelon foam on top of your Champagne — are the new trend at some of the city’s best bars. [amNY]

• With the reopening of the Cheyenne Diner in Red Hook, it looks like there will also be a Water Taxi Beach–like space there, as well as a beer garden. [Eater]

Top Chef’s Hung Huynh wants a spot on team USA for the Bocuse d’Or. [YumSugar]
Related: Everything You Wanted to Know About the Bocuse d’Or Competition But Were Afraid to Ask

Read more»

Mediavore 

5/20/08

10:00 AM

The $175 Kobe Burger; Black Truffles in Trouble

• In the latest development in ridiculously priced food, Wall Street Burger Shoppe has introduced a $175 Kobe burger that comes topped with — what else? — truffles, foie gras, and gold. [NYDN]

• The U.S. Agriculture Department raised its food-inflation forecast for the third consecutive month; if the figure rises again next month, it could match inflation in 1990. [WSJ]

Ilili’s chef-owner, Philippe Massoud, may listen to disco when the mood is right, but he doesn’t allow any music to be played in the kitchen of his restaurant. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

Back of the House 

2/25/08

5:00 PM

Global Warming Endangers Black Truffles; Gourmands Despair at God’s Indifference to Suffering

Gather your black truffles while ye may...Photo: AFP/ Getty Images

We had a good bit of sport over the astronomical prices paid this past summer for white truffles in New York restaurants. But what if their black cousins, long the déclassé branch of the family, became even more expensive? Or disappeared entirely? That wouldn’t be so funny. And it wouldn’t be good for the price of white truffles, which, like Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup, could become a purely plutocratic pleasure sooner than we expected. (Not that truffles are evil in the way of Beluga caviar and shark-fin soup; we’re just thinking of endangered luxury foods, you understand.) An article in USA Today suggests that the global warming is currently bringing the hammer down on black-truffle production and that (gasp) “France's black truffle will one day be just a memory.” It’s a similar story around the world, as fish stocks are depleted, ecosystems are knocked out of whack, and global demand for things like toro and truffles move beyond a small cluster of ascot-wearing bons vivants.

Read more»

Mediavore 

12/ 5/07

10:10 AM

Bobby Flay Enters the Burger Game; Serendipity 3 Reopens

Bobby Flay is entering the upscale-burger game with a chain of restaurants called Bobby’s Burger Palace. [GlobeSt.com via A Hamburger Today]

Gossip Girl fanatics will be happy to know that Gilt has added Serena’s much-beloved grilled cheese with truffle oil to the bar menu. Only $50! [Zagat]
Related: Is ‘Gossip Girl’ the Most Restauranty Show Since ‘Sex and the City’?

The Times says the entrée is on its way out at restaurants all over the country, thanks to a loss of interest in “big, protein-laden main dishes.” [NYT]

Read more»

Back of the House 

12/ 4/07

2:52 PM

Biggest Truffle Yet Commands Record Price, Blah Blah Blah

Truffles

Truffles don't come free, unless you're a famous chef.Photo: AFP/Getty Images

“This looks like the brain of a man … but it's nice, very nice,” says Alfonso Iaccarrino, chef at the Lisboa Hotel in Micau, the new owner of the world’s biggest and most expensive white truffle, a 3.3-pound monster for which the hotel paid $330,000. That's way out of proportion to the already insane low-double-digit figures being paid for previous giant truffles, but since there can apparently never be too much truffle coverage, it’s our grim duty to direct you to it. Grub Street is your source for truffle news on the march, even when they look like brains.

Giant Truffle Sold at Auction [Reuters]
Related: What Chef Rides the Truffle Train for Free?
Breaking: Another Freakish White Truffle Comes to Town
Have White Truffles Finally Gone Too Far?

Mr. Snitch 

12/ 3/07

11:36 AM

What Chef Rides the Truffle Train for Free?

Truffles

Truffles don't come free, unless you're a famous chef.Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Last we heard, white truffles were going for about $3,400 a pound. If we know, the chefs certainly do, which makes the following story so awful: It seems that a certain well-known chef came into one of the city’s top Italian restaurants recently and having announced himself, proceeded to order a tasting menu — with lots of truffles. Course after course came out, including several with the prized shavings on them, each one described in person by the restaurant’s equally famous chef. But when it came time to present the bill, the visitor wouldn’t pay it, claiming to be just a hardworking fellow cook. After much fury in the kitchen, and to avoid a further scene, the chef's truffles were comped. He received a nominal bill of a $130 for the feast and tipped $20.

That’s all we can say, we’re afraid, but if you have any guesses as to who the parties involved might be, feel free to make them in the comments. If you get it right, we will nod knowingly here at our desk.

Earlier: Have White Truffles Finally Gone Too Far?

Mediavore 

11/19/07

10:00 AM

Chefs Bored With Food, Move to Clothes; Pricey Plates and Polygamy Just Go Together

Wondering who actually orders $1,000 bagel or a $28,000 bejeweled sundae? Serendipity 3 owner Stephen Bruce “wouldn’t be surprised if soon we get a call from a Middle Eastern prince or Shah willing to give something sweet to his many wives on his next trip to the city.” [News.Com.Au]
Related: Have White Truffles Finally Gone Too Far?
Breaking: Serendipity 3 Closed by DOH

Since chefs, mixologists, and their restaurants are the newest breed of celebrity, it's about time they started designing clothes. Get dressed at Freemans, Death & Co., and PDT. [Mouthing Off/Food&Wine]

Restaurateur Jimmy Bradley on the source of his managing prowess: “The Art of War by Sun Tzu taught me many leadership and organizational lessons.” [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

In the Magazine 

11/12/07

2:00 PM

The Truffle Madness Continues for Another Week

Allen & Delancey: you might want to call for directions.Photo: Noah Sheldon

It’s truffle time at New York — a three-part celebration of the original Magic Mushroom (and you know how we feel about that). Moving beyond the fabulous fungi, Adam Platt made his way down to Allen & Delancey and was so impressed with the place that he almost gave it three stars — before remembering that he was Adam Platt.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/ 8/07

2:45 PM

Have White Truffles Finally Gone Too Far?

You can either have the bagel, or pay your rent.Photo: uk.reuters.com

We have some bad news. The bagel, that beloved, affordable symbol of New York cuisine, has gentrified. Chef Frank Tujague of the Westin hotel in Times Square (where else?) has unveiled the $1,000 white-truffle bagel, "topped with white truffle cream cheese and goji berry infused Riesling jelly with golden leaves." Now we love all truffles, far too much to ever be so rash as to declare them to be so over, and there may not be a thing on earth that's not improved by them (we've even considered using truffle oil as conditioner — it probably works wonders for split ends). But now that truffles are toying with the doughy purity of simple bagels, we have to wonder: Is this white-truffle thing not getting just a bit too precious?

Read more»

Mediavore 

11/ 7/07

10:00 AM

Citywide Truffle Shortage; A New Eastside Fro-Yo Foe

A citywide truffle shortage can explain why “the Waverly Inn jacked up the price of its infamous truffle-topped mac & cheese from $55 to $85. The dish was an amusing punch line at $55; at $85, it's just obscene.” [NYP]
Related: Le Cirque Bids High for Monster Truffle

Bruni eschews all the courtesies one suffers at the dinner table, which he refers to as restaurantspeak: “Would I ‘enjoy coffee with dessert?’ I don’t know; it depends how good the coffee is. I’ll have some, yes, then we’ll see.” [NYT]

FR.OG has now lost Jean Georges alum chef Didier Virot to the Plaza’s new restaurant-to-be, the Palm Court, set to open later this year. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/ 8/07

10:00 AM

Madman Runs Amok With BBQ Knives; Traci Des Jardins Overboard on ‘Next Iron Chef’

A madman grabbed knives from the Texas Smokehouse Barbecue and started slashing people in Murray Hill until he was gunned down. [NYP]

Traci Des Jardins is the first one overboard at The Next Iron Chef. [Serious Eats]

A lot of good restaurants have failed health inspections, leading to: “You'll pay $90 for a prix-fixe meal complete with foie gras and lobster at celebrity chef David Bouley's namesake restaurant — just watch out for eight-legged appetizers.” [NYP]

Read more»

Mediavore 

7/11/07

10:00 AM

Ex-Ramsay Chef Taking Over Allen and Delancey; High-End Chinese Fading Fast

Neil Ferguson, the former chef at Gordon Ramsay, will be in charge of the kitchen at Allen and Delancey when the place finally opens in September. [NYT]
Related: Allen and Delancey Tripped at the Finish Line, Won't Open

The city’s Chinese fine-dining restaurants are on the run, the victims of changing tastes, high costs, and slim margins. The East Side’s Sichuan Pavilion just went under, and even the genre’s grande dame, Shun Lee Palace, is now peopled mostly by seniors. [NYS]

Organic chef Matthew Kenney, best known for his acrimonious exit from Pure Food and Wine, is back in town and preparing to open a retail prepared-organic-foods business. [NYS]
Related: Raw Foodist Sarma Melngailis Drinks Grapefruit Sake Mojitos Before Noon

Read more»

Mediavore 

5/16/07

10:05 AM

‘Top Chef’ Talbot Out at Spitzer’s Corner; FDA Too Weak Even for Industry

Top Chef runner-up Sam Talbot is out at what was to be his debut restaurant, Spitzer’s Corner. [Eater]

The FDA is facing increasing ire about its having largely abdicated its regulatory role. Even the produce industry wants the agency to do its job; suppliers are “virtually begging for stronger intervention.” [NYT]

Salsa mogul gives the Culinary Institute of America $35 million to advance the careers of Latin cooks and kitchen workers and to “deepen the United States’ relationship with food from Latin America.” [NYT]

Read more»

Mediavore 

3/ 2/07

9:59 AM

Paul Liebrandt Back in Play; Rat Chief Vows to Exterminate the Brutes

The city’s rat-patrol chief vows that “the rats will not win.” [NYT]

In Vogue, Jeffrey Steingarten reveals that New York’s top unemployed chef, Paul Liebrandt, is doing a restaurant with Drew Nieporent. Snack asserts it’s Montrachet. [Snack]

Amusing slam of Bruni’s Robert’s Steakhouse review from conservative mainstay National Review. Need we say more? [National Review Online]

Read more»

Foodievents 

1/ 5/07

2:00 PM

Dishwashers, Culinary Elite Being Allowed Into Peter Luger’s Kitchen

Mother always said we saw the world through rose-tinted glasses.Photo courtesy Peter Luger

Usually, an outfit with a name like Culinary Insiders is bound to be just the opposite. And yet a group calling itself exactly that has some of the city’s most promising restaurant events scheduled, starting with a behind-the-scenes tour of Peter Luger on Sunday the 21st. Also upcoming*: a truffle party at Alain Ducasse, a trip to Stone Barns with Dan Barber, and in February, a Chinese New Year extravaganza at 66. And though membership may have its privileges, accredited Insiders get only $25 off the $150 Luger tour ticket. And, yes, that does come with a steak meal.

Behind-the-Scenes at Peter Luger [Culinary Insiders]

* Correction, Jan. 5: The Stone Barns and Alain Ducasse events have already taken place.

What to Eat Tonight 

12/15/06

4:43 PM

Eat Truffles, Ease Your Shut-In Grammy's Misery

Appetizing.Photo: Kelly Cline

If news that P. Diddy can't get enough white truffles at Daniel hasn't got you hankering after them — and if his habit of demanding that his server "shave this bitch," as Eater noted, doesn't inspire you — maybe altruism will. Daniel Boulud bought two baseball-size mushrooms at a Citymeals charity auction this past weekend for $6,000 and is donating the proceeds from the dishes he serves them with to the same charity. And what are those dishes? Simple, neutral landing pads for the magic mushroom: creamy risotto with Parmesan emulsion; spaghetti alla chitarra with fontina cream; and gnochetti with porcini confit and arugula. They go for a whopping $250 each, but since it costs Citymeals just $5 to feed one homebound, elderly New Yorker, you know the money will go a long way. And you won't have to feel quite so bad about not visiting Grammy in the Bronx.

 

 

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