Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘wd-50’

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

11:00 AM

Is There a Junk-Food Trend on the Horizon?

junk food

Photo courtesy of Doritos

In the Post today, Carla Spartos explores chefs’ ambivalent feelings about using MSG and other junk-food ingredients and methods in their dishes. Wyle Dufresne points out the similarities between the molecular-gastronomy movement and the guys who came up with Cool Ranch Doritos, the flavor of which he says he’d consider using in a mashed-potato dish. He tells the Post, “We had a lot of questions about cooking — about what was happening to our food as it was cooking — and some of the more traditional routes didn't offer a complete explanation, so we began to delve deeper into food science. And where are the food scientists working? In the commercial food industry.” Will fast food become more of a go-to? Will we now see empanadas described as “hot pockets” on the menu?

Snack Attack! [NYP]

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

9:00 AM

Wylie Dufresne Wins Tofu-Cooking Contest

wylie dufresne

Don't spend it all on methylcellulose!Photo courtesy House Foods

Late yesterday afternoon the House Foods Tofu Around the World Cook-off was held at the Astor Center, and winner was … wd-50's Wylie Dufresne, whose high-tech creations trumped the efforts of Edward Higgins of Insieme, Akinobu Suzuki of Sakagura, and Erik Battes of Perry Street. Dufresne won $5,000 for his winning dishes, miso soup with instant tofu noodles and warm tofu custard with caramelized banana and granola sleeves. Grub Street reader Megan Canter was present at the event, got to taste the winning entry, and had this to say: “What a fun dish! The noodle ‘batter’ came in tiny squirt bottles with red caps — when squirted into the miso consommé, they firmed up pretty instantly. The soup itself was such a rich, concentrated flavor, really delicious.” Despite the fact that the contest was co-sponsored by the Gohan Society, which promotes Japanese gastronomy, not all the entries came from an Asian direction. Higgins presented tofu in carrozza, for example, and Battes crispy tofu with morels and sweet corn and lemongrass. The runners-up all got $500 checks, but not of the ceremonial oversize variety. That honor belonged to the mutton-chopped man from wd-50 alone.

Earlier: Four Chefs to Face Off in Tofu Battle

Two for Eight 

7/18/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Tailor; Jean Georges and wd-50 Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.



Read more»

Two for Eight 

7/ 2/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Esca and Jean Georges; wd-50 Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

Foodievents 

6/27/08

5:00 PM

Four Chefs to Face Off in Tofu Battle

tofu

A blank page, as yet unwritten.Photo: iStockphoto

Tofu, a substance that can be everything and nothing, is the perfect ingredient for a chef battle. That’s why House Tofu, a Japanese brand, is sponsoring one on July 22 at the Astor Center. Ed Higgins, chef de cuisine at Insieme, Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, Erik Battes, chef de cuisine of Perry Street, and Akinobu Suzuki, the executive chef of Sakagura, will all prepare a sweet and a savory tofu dish. The winner gets $5,000.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

6/18/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Esca; Jean Georges and Nobu Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

6/ 4/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Esca and Falai; Jean Georges and WD-50 Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

6/ 2/08

12:30 PM

Insider Take on the Beards: Up With Mario, Enough Chang Already!

Image courtesy of the James Beard
Foundation.

Metromix tries to get a bead on the Beards this morning, reaching out to an anonymous critic, publicist, and chef to ask their opinions on who might win which award and why. The answers were illuminating: The critic opined that Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali ought to get the Outstanding Restaurateur award over their trans-Hudson rivals like Wolfgang Puck: “I do not mean any disrespect to Wolfgang Puck, but they don’t operate restaurants in New York City for a reason, and it is because they just can’t take the heat.” On the subject of the Outstanding Chef award, the Best Actor of the Beards, all three seem to think that David Chang will probably win, but none seem happy about it: The critic wants wd-50's Wylie Dufresne to win, the publicist says it would be “a shame,” and the chef is really hot on the subject: “The only one I think is bullshit on that whole list is David Chang. It is not because I think David Chang is bullshit. I just think it is to soon for a guy like that to be listed with those guys. I think 10 years from now David Chang should be nominated, for sure. Not now.” Whether the Beard voters feel the same way is another question; we’ll find out next Sunday.

Betting on Beard [Metromix]
Related: Bourdain & Co. Give Their Picks for Beard Chef NYC

Two for Eight 

5/19/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Bouley and Falai; Per Se Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

5/16/08

3:00 PM

Oven-Equipped Food Truck for Sale; Scarpetta Off to Strong Start

East Village: Telephone Bar & Grill is hosting a benefit for the children of Nepal on Sunday, June 1. [Grub Street]
Hell's Kitchen: Soho's Mooncake Foods has opened a second, much larger location at 263 West 30th Street. [Flickr]
Lower East Side: Good luck re-creating wd~50's recipe for almond-ice-cream "rocks," which calls for twenty grams of dextrose and bitter foam, among other ingredients. [Restaurant Girl]
Meatpacking District: Scarpetta's off to a strong start. Even if someone steals a slice of steak from you. [Eater]
Midtown East: The Pranzo pizza truck is missing, because it's up for sale. [Midtown Lunch]
Midtown West: On Monday, a theater company will perform bits from its upcoming adaptation of Molière's Monsieur de Pourceaugnac at D'Or, in the Dream Hotel. [Zagat Buzz]
Nolita: The bartenders at the reincarnated Randolph, which will open at 319 Broome Street this weekend, have a Milk & Honey pedigree and the best in specialty ice, which is made to melt slower, so your drink stays colder (and less watery) longer. [Grub Street]
Tribeca: West Broadway's getting a Le Pain Quotidien; this could fill the void of the Chambers Street Ceci-Cela, which closed late last year due to rising rents. [Eater]
West Village: Pichet Ong serves serves house-made ginger, passion fruit, and calamansi sodas at P*Ong. [Grub Street]

Back of the House 

5/15/08

3:30 PM

Defeated Cheftestant Just Wants to Help Fat Cops

alcohol

Andrew can make anything look demented.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo

Last night on Top Chef, a healthy-cooking challenge for Chicago cops produced some of the worst dishes ever seen on the show. Lisa’s stir-fry was anything but that, and Spike managed to scrape by in spite of a thoughtless chicken salad containing olives and grapes. Still, it was the ever-energetic Andrew who was sent home for his bewilderingly riceless sushi. Michael Alan Connelly spoke to him this morning about hanging out with Spike and culinary boners.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

5/ 1/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Café Gray and 15 East; Jean Georges and Per Se Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

5/ 1/08

3:10 PM

Box Not That Cool? Kiev Curse Lingers in the East Village

Astoria: Ovelia's added its lunchtime fav, the Kobe Beef slider, to its happy hour menu. [Joey in Astoria]
Chelsea: 1 Oak is hosting a fundraiser tonight for pint-size victims of AIDS in Africa, and one of the raffle prizes is a session with Diddy's stylist. Way to help while keeping it trendy guys. [Down by the Hipster]
Coney Island: The Island is about to get cheesier, but in a bad way, with help from the Hard Rock Cafe, Virgin Records, and Madame Tussaud's. [Brownstoner]
East Village: The American Grill/GoGo Curry hybrid has given up its space to new owners and Asian cuisine, but is there any hope for the next incarnation of the corner spot with a "Kiev Curse?" [Eater]
Lower East Side: A poll of over 100 people concludes the Box has become sort of lame with one commenter noting "I know clubland regulars who get hassled at the door, while friggin Russians and Lithuanians who can barely speak English have bribed their way in." Not cool. [Down by the Hipster]

Mediavore 

4/30/08

10:00 AM

Smoothies at Starbucks; Searching for New Sandwiches

• In an effort to lure back customers, Starbucks will start offering “smoothie-like drinks made with fresh fruit and whey powder,” though this raises the question of who prefers a “smoothie-like” drink to an actual smoothie. [WSJ]

• Casey and Dale from Top Chef Miami still keep in touch, meaning she knows why Dale isn’t dating Jack from Project Runway anymore. [Slashfood]

• Diners think restaurant inspections protect them much more than they actually do. [Science Daily]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/17/08

9:45 AM

Should Critics Care About a Restaurant's Matchbooks?

Restaurant buttons

Forget about the food — how's the logo?Photo: Daniel Maurer

The new issue of Metropolis boasts some truly gorgeous shots of the kitchens of wd-50 (complete with skylight), Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Alinea, and Chez Panisse. But what really caught our attention was a polemic from graphic designer Steven Heller asking why restaurant critics generally overlook the graphic design of, for instance, a restaurant’s logo, sign, menu, and business card — as was the case when Amanda Hesser reviewed Spice Market.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

4/15/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at 15 East and Bouley; Masa Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

4/ 8/08

3:00 PM

Wylie Dufresne Serves Lunch on the LES; New Starbucks Roast: It's Just Like D-n' D!

Bryant Park: Right at this moment, Starbucks is giving away bags of its new roast, Pike Place, which reminds a Chicago Tribune reporter of Dunkin' Donuts' house coffee. Will Rachael Ray start spitting out Starbucks, too? [Gothamist]
Dumbo: Get to know the hood's new CSA (and its farmer) tonight at 7:30 at the Phoenix House. [Dumbo NYC]
Harlem: The neighborhood that literally begged for a Starbucks finally got its misguided wish. [Uptown Flavor]
Lower East Side: WD-50 will start a Wednesday-through-Friday lunch service on April 23 that features a seven-course tasting menu for $75, in addition to special lunch dishes. [Grub Street]
West Village: A second outlet of Sakae Sushi (and its conveyor-belt Japanese ) is coming to West 3rd Street. [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]

Two for Eight 

3/28/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Tailor; Nobu and Masa Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/25/08

3:30 PM

Bourdain & Co. Give Their Picks for Beard Chef NYC

James Beard logo
This year’s race for the James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef in New York City (or, as we like to think of it, the Division 1A title) is a fierce one. We spoke to a mix of chefs, critics, and bloggers, and here are their responses. Not all are voting, but we think that, as a whole, they're pretty representative of what we've been hearing from within the New York restaurant community. The nominees, just to remind you, are Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern, Terrance Brennan of Picholine, David Chang of Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, and Gabriel Kreuther of the Modern. (Remember, Chang is being judged solely on Ssäm Bar, not for his work at Momofuku Ko.)

Read more»

Two for Eight 

3/12/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Café Gray; Per Se Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

Read more»

The Other Critics 

3/ 5/08

9:30 AM

Wylie Wins Respect for Molecular Gastronomy With a Third Star; Bar Boulud Finally Gets a Good Review

In a landmark for molecular gastronomy in America, the movement’s top proponent, Wylie Dufresne, gets his third star for wd-50. A historic review, especially as Frank Bruni expresses the usual reservations about overly cerebral cooking. [NYT]

Bar Boulud finally gets some respect from Alan Richman, who praises its blue-ribbon charcuterie and says of its much-maligned mains, “The worst that can be said…is that the recipes are relentlessly conventional — lamb stew, roasted chicken, boudin blanc. The best is that such a style of cooking is terribly missed.” [GQ]

Restaurant Girl seems to have been distinctly unimpressed with about half of the dishes she tried at Adour, resulting in a lukewarm, two-and-a-half-star review. Ducasse’s latest is not getting off to a great start. [NYDN]

Read more»

Mediavore 

2/21/08

10:00 AM

A Dovetail Spy Scandal; Gordo Ruins New Jersey Valentine's Day

A Food & Wine contributing editor has been working as a hostess at Dovetail, the new three-star restaurant, for the past two months. Part of her arrangement with chef John Fraser? To spot food writers and alert the kitchen, but apparently she was no help in pointing out Frank Bruni. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

Shake Shack and Burger Joint will face off tonight at the South Beach Food & Wine Festival for the title of champion in the “Burger Bash.” [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Landmarc at the Time Warner Center is throwing an Oscar party of sorts this Sunday, featuring a five-course tasting menu and two flat-screen TVs in the dining room. [Zagat]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

2/20/08

4:15 PM

French Mixologists Push ‘Cointreau Caviar’ to Local Cocktailians

mixology

Cocktails by Mr. Wizard.Photo: Courtesy of Cointreau

Rest assured the “solids” at Tailor are just the start of the molecular madness. Esteemed French mixologists Fernando Castellon and Richard Lambert are working with Cointreau to bring what they call “caviar” — sort of like tapioca pearls, but with about half an ounce of liquid booze inside — to your next drink. Tomorrow they’ll show a select group of 40 bartenders (from Per Se, wd-50, PDT, and the like) how to prepare the spheres by mixing Cointreau and alginate and then using a syringe to drop the flavor combo into a calcium bath. Castellon tells us a mixologist using an immersion mixer would normally have to wait six hours for air bubbles to disappear, but their kit equips bartenders with a magnetic agitator so they can set up in eight minutes at the beginning of the night and make each drink in 30 seconds. The procedure took a year to research (finding an alginate that gets along with 80-proof liquor ain’t easy), but let's hope it proves worth it when you take your first sip (and bite) of a “Cointreaupolitan.”

Related: Eben Freeman Turns His Cocktails Solid Just for the Hell of It

Back of the House 

2/12/08

9:30 AM

Jay Rayner Paints the New York Restaurant World in a Few Broad Strokes

Who knows…not Jay…he never lost control…Courtesy of Henry Holt and Co.

The Man Who Ate the World, British restaurant critic Jay Rayner’s tour of the planet's great restaurant cities will be coming out soon, as Gawker noted yesterday. Its piece lingered over Super Mario’s latest profanity-laced anti-blogger tirade, which was almost as enjoyable as his last one. But having read the New York chapter, we were hit by how much other good stuff was in it.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

1/24/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Café Gray and Tailor.; Masa Fully Booked

It’s just past 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: certified geniuses.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

12/10/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Esca and Falai; Masa Fully Booked

It’s just past 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Neighborhood chic.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

11/19/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Masa; Per Se Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified geniuses.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

11/ 1/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Anthos and Tailor; Nobu Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified geniuses.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/22/07

11:36 AM

Jimmy's Secret Chef Performs Culinary Miracles in the East Village

Philip Kirschen-Clark, cooking in his culinary dungeon.Photo: Melissa Hom

We always like Jimmy's — the Belgian beers, the sausage plates, the occasional bacon tasting. But nothing could have prepared us for our recent discovery of a living, breathing young chef working gastronomic magic in Jimmy’s ultraprimitive kitchen. Using only two hot plates and a toaster oven, Philip Kirschen-Clark, the former fish man at wd-50, is making surprising, inventive dishes every night at the East Village bar.

Read more»

Two for Eight 

10/16/07

4:00 PM

Tables at Tailor and Anthos; Per Se Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Certified geniuses.

Read more»

Foodievents 

9/20/07

3:30 PM

Drink Japan Without Leaving Little Italy

sake

Brewers prepare to ceremonially open the first cask of sake at a last year's tasting.Courtesy of Joy of Sake

Sake has been the next big trend for so long that we’ve been loathe to recognize it now that it’s actually arriving. If, like us, you're utterly mystified by the stuff (not being able to read the bottle is part of it), check out the Joy of Sake next week. The city's biggest sake event will hit the Puck Building on Thursday featuring 300 different sakes, at least a third of which aren't available outside of Japan. The restaurant lineup looks good too: Seventeen restaurants are creating dishes meant to be paired with sake, including wd-50, Sakagura, and 15 East. Tickets are $75 in advance, $90 at the door.

Joy of Sake [Official Site]

Read more»