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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘wine’

NewsFeed 

7/18/08

5:30 PM

Chicago Chef Art Smith Plans New York Venture and Possible White House Gig

smith and bouley

David Bouley and Art Smith at last night's dinner.Photo: Patricia Willis

At dinner with Chicago chef and recent Top Chef judge Art Smith last night, we learned that the James Beard Award winner is taking notes from Charlie Trotter and plans to open his own New York restaurant. The meal, a “secret supper” launch of Santa Margherita's new Chianti Classico wine, involved being whisked away by car to an undisclosed location. It turned out to be David Bouley’s test kitchen, so we were safe. “I think probably in the next year or so we’ll come to New York with a restaurant,” Smith said. “I’d love something that’s not about waiting four months to get into.”

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Mediavore 

6/24/08

10:00 AM

Top Wine Prices Not Dropping; Taste the ‘Frozen Popcornsicle’

• You’d think that prices for top bottles of wine are falling in this economy, but you’d be wrong. [Portfolio]

• Is Starbucks killing off independent coffeehouses in Harlem just like it has everywhere else? [Uptown Flavor]

• Finish an order of the incredibly spicy phaal curry at Brick Lane Curry House, and they’ll give you a free beer and a certificate to prove you ate it. [Serious Eats]

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Mediavore 

6/18/08

10:00 AM

Grayz to Become Straight-Up Restaurant; Fran Derby Lands at Solex

Grayz will be closing on August 10 and reopening as a full-fledged restaurant. [NYS]

• Andrew Carmellini is officially out at A Voce, and Fran Derby, formerly of Tailor, is cooking at Solex. [NYT]
Related: Fran Derby, Sam Mason's Co-Chef, Leaves Tailor

Top Chef's Stephanie Izard had to sit on the secret of her success for a good long time, but it was all worthwhile in the end. [Stamford Advocate]
Related: 'Top Chef' Winner Tells All

Read more»

In the Magazine 

6/ 9/08

9:30 AM

Eat Pizza in Brooklyn and Buy Meat in Union Square

brooklyn pizza

Brooklyn pizza beyond Di Fara and Totonno's.Photo: Noah Kalina

In this week's magazine, Rob and Robin deliver the definitive guide to buying meat and dairy in the Union Square Greenmarket, along with welcome news of a pizza renaissance in Brooklyn. The Robs also manage to find a decent boxed wine and deliver news of two new restaurants, in Harlem and on the Upper East Side. You'll also find a recipe for fluke and Gael Greene's notes on Hundred Acres. In the "Intelligencer section," read about a former West Village diner destined to be a high-end chophouse.

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NewsFeed 

5/28/08

5:00 PM

Good News: Wealthy Wine Collectors Are Easier to Fleece Than You Might Think

jean adamson

Courtesy of Crown Publishers

Since most of us tend not to pay tens of thousands of dollars for a bottle of wine, the troubles of wealthy wine collectors would, under most circumstances, probably not be of much interest. But Ben Wallace’s new book, The Billionaire’s Vinegar, provides a compelling peek into the counterfeit-wine game. The book, out this month, centers on the saga of a single bottle of 1787 Chateau Lafite, supposedly from the cellar of Thomas Jefferson, that was the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold. (The Forbes family bought it at auction for $156,000 in 1985.) The bottle turned out to be a fraud and, as Wallace tells us, introduced the concept of original sin to the wealthiest circles of wine collectors. The key agent of their disillusion? A billionaire who tracked the Jefferson bottle for twenty years, like Casper Gutman looking for the Maltese falcon, and proved it to be a fake.

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NewsFeed 

5/28/08

10:50 AM

Le Bernardin’s Aldo Sohm Wins World Sommelier Contest

Aldo Sohm

Aldo Sohm had his eyes on the prize for a year.Photo courtesy Le Bernardin

Aldo Sohm, the good-natured wine director at Le Bernardin, is the best sommelier in the world. Last year, Sohm bested all his American rivals, but faltered in the international competition. The contest, which was held in Rome, involved a wine-recognition test, a flawed wine list needing correcting, table service, and a food-and-wine pairing. This year, he bested rivals from thirteen other nations to be named “Best Sommelier in the World.”

Update: The Ripper chimes in on Sohn's win: “Of course this is a very big deal for Aldo and Le Bernardin,” says the Le Bernardin's chef. “What is truly impressive and makes Aldo even more of a champion is that he accomplished this enormous task while working full time as our wine director, never taking off one day to study or prepare.”

Related: Le Bernardin Lands the ‘Best Sommelier in America’

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

5:40 PM

Vintner Robert Mondavi Dead at 94

The name Robert Mondavi may mean inexpensive California wine to a lot of people, but the vintner, who died today at the age of 94, was responsible for making Napa Valley known internationally as a great wine-making region. He was inducted into the CIA's Vintner's Hall of Fame in 2007, an honor Mondavi's wife called “a pearl in the crown of our family's winemaking history in the Napa Valley.”

Winemaker Robert Mondavi Dead at 94 [NYT]

Mediavore 

5/ 7/08

10:00 AM

Wine Lovers Are Dupes, and Line-Waiting Foodies Are Sheep

• Are wine lovers just a bunch of easily duped snobs? [NYT]

• Some people love their Greenmarket produce so much that they’ll pose naked with it. [TONY]

• New Yorkers who wait in ridiculous lines for food are displaying a “sheep mentality.” [NYP]

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Mediavore 

5/ 2/08

10:00 AM

Frank Bruni’s Bedtime; Cola Companies’ New Bottles

• Frank Bruni is always in bed by midnight and he likes the East Village’s “scruffy glee.” [Yelp]

• Whoever ranked Chipotle in this top five list of healthiest chain restaurants must not have seen their calorie information. [Health]
Related: The Shocking Secrets of Chain-Restaurant Calorie Counts

• Apparently that new pizza bus tour is doing just fine. [Eater]

Read more»

In the Magazine 

4/21/08

9:30 AM

This Week, It’s the Little Things

persephone

Persephone's white-walled simplicity.Photo: Noah Sheldon

Small pleasures abound in New York, and this week's issue of the magazine highlights some of them. Sure, there are the major openings and reviews to consider: Rob and Robin issue birth announcements for haute Turkish East Sider Savarona and barbecue behemoth Wildwood, and Platt lays his weighty judgment upon the hapless Persephone and Elettaria. But what stands out this week are little joys: sucking crayfish as they're prepared by Joaquin Baca; a refreshing pink Basque wine recommended by the Robs; some fine butters, tested and presented by Gillian Duffy; and a small but promising-sounding Vietnamese restaurant, Tet, reviewed by Gael Greene. Meanwhile, the Zagats may be about to sell their empire. All this and more, in this week's issue.

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Foodievents 

4/15/08

2:30 PM

Brooklyn Uncorked to Impress Long Island Wines Upon City Minds

Brooklyn uncorked
Long Island wines don’t get much press, but some of them are pretty good, and given how much locavore sentiment is floating around nowadays, they deserve more attention. For that reason, Edible Brooklyn will for the second straight year be presenting Brooklyn Uncorked, a tasting event to be held on Wednesday, May 14, at BAMcafé. It’s not all wines, either: Edible Brooklyn wants the world to know that the event also includes “Long Island and Brooklyn microbrews, plus tastings from a dozen favorite Brooklyn restaurants, cheesemongers, potato chippers, sorbeteers, and other artisanal grub.” Visit Edible Brooklyn to buy the $50 tickets and to get more information.

Related: Coming Soon: 'Edible Manhattan'
The Brooklyn Food Mag You Should Be Reading

Mediavore 

4/15/08

10:00 AM

Inflation Running Rampant; Richman Hits Terroir

• Americans are currently experiencing the highest inflation in food prices in seventeen years. While last year’s increase of 4 percent was well over the average of 2.5 percent, this year could be even worse. [NYDN]

• Guests were stunned at Time Out New York’s Eat Out Awards ceremony when the Mermaid Inn won for best place to be seen. [Feed/TONY]

• Just because a wine is kosher doesn’t mean it has to taste like sugar-loaded Manischewitz. [Zagat Buzz]

• Now that your taxes are done, feast on some free bar snacks at Pastis, Bemelman’s Bar, and Peasant Wine Bar. [Gridskipper]
Related: Cheap Eats: Gourmet Bar Snacks

• Alan Richman finds Terroir to be overrun by tables of girls. [Forked/GQ]

Mediavore 

4/10/08

10:00 AM

Cheyenne Diner to Rise From Ashes; Lil' Jon Has a Wine Label

• The Cheyenne Diner's days in this town may not be over just yet: There’s a chance it will relocate to Coney Island. [NYDN]

• Brasserie Cognac, the latest venture from the team behind Serafina, will open in midtown on Monday. [Zagat Buzz]

• All hail the death of the [insert gross word here]-tini. [NYT]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

4/ 4/08

1:30 PM

Would You Like the Red, the White, or the Rainbow?

mundo gay

Very fruity.Photo: Courtesy of Luxist.

First, there was porn-star wine, and now there’s Mundo Gay, the first Spanish wine marketed to the gay community. Luxist tells us that the wine, produced by Bodegas y Viñedos Robeal, is meant to “open the minds of those in the small agricultural area of Ribera del Duero.” We imagine sommeliers are going to have to be careful how they recommend this one...

Mundo Gay, a Spanish Wine for the Gay Community [Luxist]

Openings 

4/ 4/08

11:35 AM

Chelsea Wine Bar Has Southern Italian–Wine Mission

oz cruvinet

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain...Photo courtesy Bar Baresco

With the wine-bar craze going at full tilt, it’s only natural that the Malta brothers, with a dozen restaurants to their credit, would want in. They've redone the pleasant but generic Sette as Bar Baresco, a Chelsea wine bar with the mission of promoting Southern Italian wines. “The wines of Southern Italy and Sardinia were ignored for a long time,” says Enrico Malta. “They had great grapes, great soil, but just lacked the technology. But now the winemakers from north are coming down and helping, and the wines in that region are going into another gear.”

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Mediavore 

4/ 3/08

10:00 AM

Beard Awards Get ‘Sex’y; Pizza.com Selling for $2.6 Mil

Sex and the City’s Kim Cattrall will host this year’s James Beard Awards ceremony, with the hope that she can “elevate the nation’s consciousness of America’s culinary culture.” [Eater]

• You’ve got just under five hours to cough up $2.6 million to secure the potentially lucrative pizza.com. [Slice]

• The latest development in the Patsy’s v. Patsy’s trial: Jackie Gleason’s wife and George Clooney’s father appeared in court via video to profess their allegiance to Patsy’s Italian Restaurant in midtown. [NYP]

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/ 6/08

2:00 PM

Dr. Vino Brings First View of Wine Madhouse Terroir

terroir

Inside the mind of a madman.Photo courtesy Dr. Vino

Dr. Vino, one of our favorite wine blogs, drops the first images of the newly opened Terroir today. The wine bar owned by Marco Canora and Paul Grieco opened last night, and to judge by the pictures, it hit the ground running. As expected, the place reflects Grieco’s precarious sanity. Writes Dr. Vino: “The wine list is in a three-ring binder, which the designer described to me as being like the school notebook of ‘a 16 year-old boy’s whose obsession is not with cars or girls but obscure grape varieties,’ including one with Aglianico written on it multiple times.” Just wait til they look in the crawlspace!

Hipster wine bar, Terroir, now open! Wine by the glass starts at $2.75 [Dr. Vino]

Related: What You'll Eat and Drink at Terroir

Mediavore 

3/ 5/08

10:00 AM

Dovetail's Food Editor–Hostess Tells Her Tale; Dessert Truck vs. Treats Truck Tonight

The Food & Wine editor–cum–hostess at Dovetail had a hard time learning the ropes of the job at first, but by the end she learned that star ratings from critics matter, and there’s more to being a hostess than checking coats. [TONY]

Attorney General Andrew Cuomo has filed a suit against Tonic East for “a pattern or practice of denying African-Americans from admittance into its club.” [Down by the Hipster]

Unbeknownst to us, rapper Coolio has a cooking show on the Web called, succinctly, Cookin’ With Coolio, but he might not be the most adventurous kitchen personality we’ve ever seen: “I don’t like pork, I don’t eat pork, and I don’t cook pork.” [Serious Eats]

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Back of the House 

3/ 4/08

12:48 PM

Ron Ciavolino Gives It To You Straight on Wine Bars

Sometimes you read an interview and immediately you wish you were friends with the subject. Such is the case with Metromix’s sit-down with Ron Ciavolino, the head of wine studies at the Institute of Culinary Education, and a man who speaks his mind. Our favorite quotes:

• On modern bartenders: “Most bartenders feel like they’re giving away something for nothing if they’re charming. I want schmaltz. There’s no schmaltz.”

• On the downtown wine scene: “You go to those wine bars in Soho, they’re more bowling alleys — there’s no romance. Everybody’s 12 years old.”

• What happens when a bartender allows ice to melt in a shaker: “You hemorrhage through all of your apertures.”

Days of Wine and Poses [Metromix NY]

Mediavore 

2/29/08

10:00 AM

Department of Agriculture Sued Over Beef; Skip Wine Pairings in Top Restaurants

The Humane Society filed a lawsuit on Wednesday against the Agriculture Department, alleging the bureau has created a legal loophole that consistently permits potentially sick cows to enter the food supply. [NYT]

The City Council’s bill to place more fruit-and-vegetable street vendors in poor neighborhoods could hurt business for grocery stores and bodegas in those neighborhoods. [NYT]

Even with a reservation, dining at hot spots in L.A. can be just as bad, if not worse, than in New York. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

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Back of the House 

2/28/08

9:00 AM

Women Rule the Wine Cellars of New York

Dovetail

Jen Lordan, beverage director at Dovetail.Photo: Melissa Hom

Two of this season’s most anticipated restaurants — the three-star Dovetail and Ed Brown’s Eighty One — launched with female sommeliers. Former Daniel sommelier and wineshop owner Jean Luc Le Dû recently remarked to Grub Street that only a few years ago, non-white males in the role were considered an anomaly. Today, only three women (and 21 men) in the United States have the coveted “Master of Wine” designation, awarded to 264 sommeliers throughout the world. But in New York, women helm some of the city’s most respected wine programs, including Gramercy Tavern, the Modern, and the entire B.R. Guest group. We interviewed several of these ladies of the cellar for their ideas on the industry, their experiences on the floor, and picks on retail value bottles. Look for them at restaurants near you. —Alexandra Vallis

Slideshow: Women in Wine

Back of the House 

2/15/08

5:00 PM

A Strong Case Made for the ‘Greatest Wine on the Planet’

Articles about some well-heeled journalist's quest for eating/drinking/smoking/owning the “best ever” usually leave us pretty cold, but Mike Steinberger’s Slate essay about trying to drink the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc might be one of the most enjoyable wine tales we’ve ever read. The best part of the piece isn’t about the wine itself, a freak Bordeaux that somehow has only gotten better over 61 years or even that [SPOILER WARNING!] Steinberger gets to drink it (“The '47 Cheval I drank that night now ranks as the greatest wine of my life, a title I doubt it will relinquish”). Reading the essay, you actually get some feeling for what the wine is like and how it’s possible for a vintage Bordeaux to be accurately likened to Forrest Gump. A great read.

The Greatest Wine on the Planet [Slate]

Mediavore 

2/13/08

10:00 AM

Hung to Cook in Midtown Kitchen; Chirico Pleads Not Guilty to Extortion

Top Chef winner Hung Huynh will begin a one-month stint at kosher restaurant Solo on March 2; Justin Smillie, formerly of Barbuto, has replaced Akhtar Nawab at the E.U. [NYT]
Related: Akhtar Nawab to *NOT* Leave E.U., Will Open New Restaurant

If you’re clamoring for a Valentine’s Day tablecloth dinner at White Castle, you still might be able to get one. [Eater]

Master Purveyors will live on: The fire destroyed the offices, but the meat is still safe and sound in the warehouse. [Crain's NY]
Related: Venerable Meat Purveyor Struck By Fire

Read more»

NewsFeed 

2/ 6/08

4:15 PM

Terroir Video Reveals the Depth of Paul Grieco’s Madness

Anyone who knows Paul Grieco will tell you that he is patently insane. Final proof, if any were needed, lies in this video promoting his new wine bar, Terroir. Grieco, the co-owner, manager, and wine director of both Hearth and Insieme, is the mad genius of the city’s wine corps, and Terroir is his padded cell and laboratory. The teaser site gives some hint of the white-knuckle wine-geek intensity that courses through Grieco’s veins: Among the vitriolic mottos that flash are “Our wine world is now dominated by over-manipulated, oak-chip-flavored, micro-oxygenated wines that have nothing to do with what Mother Nature, God, or the Cistercian Fathers had in mind” and “To go to Friuli for red wine is like going to Las Vegas and expecting to catch Arthur Miller's The Crucible.” But to really get a measure of his madness, watch this video. You won’t be sorry.

Related: Wine-Geek Heaven on the Way to the East Village

Mediavore 

1/29/08

10:00 AM

Freedom Tower Seeks Restaurant Developer; Le Cirque Does Restaurant Week All Month

Starting today, the Port Authority is accepting early bids from developers for control of a two-story restaurant atop the Freedom Tower, with a grand opening slated for early 2013. [The Real Estate/NYO]

More bad news about the FDA: It’s “so understaffed that, at its current pace, the agency would need at least 27 years to inspect every foreign medical device plant that exports to the United States, 13 years to check every foreign drug plant and 1,900 years to examine every foreign food plant.” [NYT]

Le Cirque’s Restaurant Week menus are such a hit that the Maccioni clan is going to make them available every weekday in February. [Zagat]

Read more»

Mediavore 

1/15/08

10:20 AM

Oak Room Gets New Operators; Illegal Fish Trade Grows

Night Sky Holdings, which formerly operated Windows on the World at the World Trade Center as well as the Rainbow Room, has signed a contract to run the Oak Room and the Oak Bar at the Plaza Hotel. Also, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s former sous-chef Didier Virot will be helming the kitchen at the hotel’s other eatery, the Palm Court. [NYP]

Sushi chef Hiroshi Nakahara has left New York’s BondSt to run the kitchen at a new outpost in Beverly Hills. [PR Newswire]

Chipotle will be serving 200 million meals using naturally raised meat this year, a 40 percent increase from 2007. [The Grinder/Chow]

Read more»

NewsFeed 

12/13/07

5:02 PM

Carb Lovers Now Have Liquid Options at ’Wichcraft, Too

Colicchio

I present to you, beer!Photo: Patrick McMullan

What could make ’wichcraft’s pork-and-coppa sandwich even better? Beer! And that’s just what the East 8th Street location is serving as of last Friday. Beer and wine are slated to come to the Tribeca location this Saturday, to the Fifth Avenue location a week or two after that, and to the Flatiron location in the near future. And this being a Colicchio production, we’re not talking about Bud and boxed wine.

Read more»

Back of the House 

12/ 5/07

1:00 PM

Former Dictators Issue Punk-Rock Food Rules

Whether the Dictators were the first New York punk band, there’s no question about whom Grub Street’s loyalties go to. (We never ate at White Castle with the Voidoids.) With the newly released The Official Punk Rock Book of Lists, edited by former Dictators front man Handsome Dick Manitoba, the underrepresented punk-rock-food connection becomes clearer, thanks to such lists as Mykel Board’s "9 Ways That Vegetarians Are Destroying the Earth," Jon Spencer’s "14 Foods to Avoid on Tour," and even a few bonus lists from the likes of Mario Batali and Jean-Luc Le Dû. But we’re all about the Dictators here, so we bring you two: one from HDM himself, and the other from Dictators songwriter-guitarist Andy Shernoff, now a certified sommelier.

Read more»

Foodievents 

11/29/07

11:00 AM

W Hotel Stands for Wine (and Wooziness) This Saturday

Let's hope she won't be this peppy.Photo courtesy Wine-ing with Grae

Normally, we couldn’t be roused from our Saturday torpor to attend a wine event like the one being held on the 1st at the W Hotel. But this one, with the participation of Alto sommelier Eric Zillier, has a lot going for it. There’s a chance to sample wines that would usually be beyond our grasp: 1989 Château Montrose, 1996 Château Léoville-Poyferré, and 2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Marcoux. (A far cry from our usual Richard’s Wild Irish Rose, enjoyed sitting on the floor of the Port Authority.) Other highfalutin features include a caviar station from Petrossian (paired with 1990 Dom), Todd English tidbits, and hand-rolled cigars. There’s also a well-lubricated wine trivia game hosted by wine guru Grae Verlin. The prize: You get to be drunk and prove that you know a lot about wine. Is it worth leaving the house on a Saturday? And the $150 price tag? It depends on how committed you are to spending your weekend inside a bottle. Call Marc Smoler at 312-482-9766 to reserve your berth.

In the Magazine 

11/26/07

9:30 AM

A Respite From Gluttony in This Week's Magazine

One perfect black espresso and excellent pastries.Photo: Jeremy Liebman

So you enjoyed your immense Thanksgiving meal and then indulged in logy reveries the next few days — standing in front of the refrigerator eating stuffing with a serving spoon, building turkey BLTs to watch the game with on Saturday. By now you're thinking, Enough with the big meals already! We're here to accommodate. In this week's issue, the Underground Gourmet determines what makes a quality coffee bar (tapas and no wi-fi, for starters) and then introduces us to a new wine bar in the West Village and a new entry in Mike Jaramillo's Williamsburg empire. Also: 5 Ninth's Daniel "Chino" Parilla provides a highly digestible turnip recipe and a panel of star sommeliers make mincemeat out of the advice given by wine-store clerks. It's all easy going down, and just what you need after the exertions of the past few days.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/15/07

9:00 AM

Wine-Geek Heaven on the Way to the East Village

It’s been a while since we first got wind of it, but the Hearth's long-awaited spinoff wine bar, Terroir, is finally close to becoming a reality. The space, known in its former life as Bikes by George, will begin its transformation right after Thanksgiving, and co-owners Paul Grieco and Marco Canora hope to open the place by New Year’s. Grieco, the wine director, is a wine geek’s wine geek, which means he's got some lofty plans.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/ 3/07

9:30 AM

Seven Nights of Wine, and No Blackout

"The Grape that can with Logic absolute / The Two-and-Seventy jarring Sects confute..."Courtesy of Vino, Italian Wine and Spirits

The swirling, the spitting, the meditative expressions – do you regret that you, too, aren’t a wine expert? There’s a boom in wine education now, the oenophilic equivalent of the G.I. Bill. And Grub Street’s Alexandra Vallis offers a seven-day guided tour of some of them available throughout the week. Because there shouldn’t be a single day when you can’t take a wine class in New York.

Seven Days to Sip and Swirl

NewsFeed 

9/ 7/07

2:19 PM

Chris Noth and Fellow Wineheads Toast the End of ‘Sex and the City’

Chris Noth

You don't get this gig from Law & OrderPhoto: Getty Images

If the New York Diet doesn’t give you enough celebrity dining talk, you might want to check out Penfolds's Website, where every month, a winemaker from the Australian company and GQ’s “Style Guy” Glenn O’Brien pour the good stuff for a celebrity guest. This month, Chris Noth asks what makes a wine “big” (get it? Mr. Big?) and, though the wine talk is illuminating (did you know Saddam’s favorite wine was Mateus?), our snippet of choice comes shortly before Noth and O’Brien toast the end of a certain TV show with a 2004 Chardonnay. “Manhattan looks like a bad imitation of Sex and the City,” Noth ponders. “Too many shoe stores, trendy restaurants, neighborhoods that have been raided by corporate-entity restaurants, and coffee shops. The meatpacking district — I can’t even go there. Everyone’s drinking cosmos and eating sushi.” So there you go: Don’t drink cosmos, silly Philistines — drink Chardonnay!

Character [Penfolds; registration req.]