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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

All Posts Tagged: ‘wylie dufresne’

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

11:00 AM

Is There a Junk-Food Trend on the Horizon?

junk food

Photo courtesy of Doritos

In the Post today, Carla Spartos explores chefs’ ambivalent feelings about using MSG and other junk-food ingredients and methods in their dishes. Wyle Dufresne points out the similarities between the molecular-gastronomy movement and the guys who came up with Cool Ranch Doritos, the flavor of which he says he’d consider using in a mashed-potato dish. He tells the Post, “We had a lot of questions about cooking — about what was happening to our food as it was cooking — and some of the more traditional routes didn't offer a complete explanation, so we began to delve deeper into food science. And where are the food scientists working? In the commercial food industry.” Will fast food become more of a go-to? Will we now see empanadas described as “hot pockets” on the menu?

Snack Attack! [NYP]

NewsFeed 

7/23/08

9:00 AM

Wylie Dufresne Wins Tofu-Cooking Contest

wylie dufresne

Don't spend it all on methylcellulose!Photo courtesy House Foods

Late yesterday afternoon the House Foods Tofu Around the World Cook-off was held at the Astor Center, and winner was … wd-50's Wylie Dufresne, whose high-tech creations trumped the efforts of Edward Higgins of Insieme, Akinobu Suzuki of Sakagura, and Erik Battes of Perry Street. Dufresne won $5,000 for his winning dishes, miso soup with instant tofu noodles and warm tofu custard with caramelized banana and granola sleeves. Grub Street reader Megan Canter was present at the event, got to taste the winning entry, and had this to say: “What a fun dish! The noodle ‘batter’ came in tiny squirt bottles with red caps — when squirted into the miso consommé, they firmed up pretty instantly. The soup itself was such a rich, concentrated flavor, really delicious.” Despite the fact that the contest was co-sponsored by the Gohan Society, which promotes Japanese gastronomy, not all the entries came from an Asian direction. Higgins presented tofu in carrozza, for example, and Battes crispy tofu with morels and sweet corn and lemongrass. The runners-up all got $500 checks, but not of the ceremonial oversize variety. That honor belonged to the mutton-chopped man from wd-50 alone.

Earlier: Four Chefs to Face Off in Tofu Battle

Foodievents 

7/10/08

5:10 PM

Have You Ever Been (New York Culinary) Experienced?

new york culinary experience
If you have deep pockets and a desire to commune with the city’s gastronomical demigods, we have the event for you. The French Culinary Institute and New York are hosting a two-day culinary seminar in which you can learn from, and cook alongside, the city's best: Wylie Dufresne (“Recent Innovations at wd-50”), Eric Ripert (“On Fish and Shellfish”), Andre Soltner (“Classic French Cooking”), Anita Lo ("Asian American Cuisine"), and David Bouley (“French Techniques—Japanese Ingredients”), among others. There's also a batch of Q&As with the likes of Danny Meyer, Joe Bastianich, Drew Nieporent, and Donatella Arpaia. The event, organized by FCI's Dorothy Hamilton and New York culinary editor Gillian Duffy, will be in September. Tickets run a cool $1,395, but at least breakfast and lunch are included! Consider it foodie fantasy camp.

Tickets are available here. You might want to order now.

The New York Culinary Experience

Foodievents 

6/27/08

5:00 PM

Four Chefs to Face Off in Tofu Battle

tofu

A blank page, as yet unwritten.Photo: iStockphoto

Tofu, a substance that can be everything and nothing, is the perfect ingredient for a chef battle. That’s why House Tofu, a Japanese brand, is sponsoring one on July 22 at the Astor Center. Ed Higgins, chef de cuisine at Insieme, Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, Erik Battes, chef de cuisine of Perry Street, and Akinobu Suzuki, the executive chef of Sakagura, will all prepare a sweet and a savory tofu dish. The winner gets $5,000.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

6/ 2/08

12:30 PM

Insider Take on the Beards: Up With Mario, Enough Chang Already!

Image courtesy of the James Beard
Foundation.

Metromix tries to get a bead on the Beards this morning, reaching out to an anonymous critic, publicist, and chef to ask their opinions on who might win which award and why. The answers were illuminating: The critic opined that Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali ought to get the Outstanding Restaurateur award over their trans-Hudson rivals like Wolfgang Puck: “I do not mean any disrespect to Wolfgang Puck, but they don’t operate restaurants in New York City for a reason, and it is because they just can’t take the heat.” On the subject of the Outstanding Chef award, the Best Actor of the Beards, all three seem to think that David Chang will probably win, but none seem happy about it: The critic wants wd-50's Wylie Dufresne to win, the publicist says it would be “a shame,” and the chef is really hot on the subject: “The only one I think is bullshit on that whole list is David Chang. It is not because I think David Chang is bullshit. I just think it is to soon for a guy like that to be listed with those guys. I think 10 years from now David Chang should be nominated, for sure. Not now.” Whether the Beard voters feel the same way is another question; we’ll find out next Sunday.

Betting on Beard [Metromix]
Related: Bourdain & Co. Give Their Picks for Beard Chef NYC

In the Magazine 

5/ 5/08

9:30 AM

Wylie Dufresne Creates a New Hot Dog for PDT

Taavo Somer

A Picknick in the park.Photo: Emilie Baltz

In the magazine this week, the Underground Gourmet bestows three stars on the New French and Gael Greene has early intel on Benoit. As the weather warms, so do the grills at outdoor restaurants — Rob and Robin compiled a list of favorites. Gramercy Tavern chef Michael Anthony shares his recipe for green-garlic sauce in this week's "In Season," and chef Wylie Dufresne creates a new hot dog for PDT. In "Openings" this week, Rob and Robin bring news of BarFry's replacement, Cabrito, and welcome Abigail Café and Wine Bar to Prospect Heights. Finally, can a farmed bluefin tuna save the planet? Only the Robs know for sure.

Read more»

Back of the House 

3/25/08

3:30 PM

Bourdain & Co. Give Their Picks for Beard Chef NYC

James Beard logo
This year’s race for the James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef in New York City (or, as we like to think of it, the Division 1A title) is a fierce one. We spoke to a mix of chefs, critics, and bloggers, and here are their responses. Not all are voting, but we think that, as a whole, they're pretty representative of what we've been hearing from within the New York restaurant community. The nominees, just to remind you, are Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern, Terrance Brennan of Picholine, David Chang of Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, and Gabriel Kreuther of the Modern. (Remember, Chang is being judged solely on Ssäm Bar, not for his work at Momofuku Ko.)

Read more»

Ask a Waiter 

3/11/08

5:00 PM

Lurie De La Rosa of PDT Asks That You Put Your Pants on and Leave

"Our hostess opened the door to see this man taking his pants off."
Photo: Melissa Hom

Lurie De La Rosa knows a thing or two about cocktails: She worked at Pegu Club under Audrey Saunders (her “New York mom”) and with Jim Meehan, who asked her to help him open his debut spot PDT. “I wasn’t sure what he meant by a ‘hot dog bar,’” she tells us. Indeed PDT is unique in that it pairs Crif Dogs with Snoop Dogg, something De La Rosa says was “scary for a little bit. I came from this world of classic music and jazz.” But she has adjusted admirably and is now part of a family that includes Wylie Dufresne, David Chang, and the occasional naked patron.

Read more»

The Other Critics 

3/ 5/08

9:30 AM

Wylie Wins Respect for Molecular Gastronomy With a Third Star; Bar Boulud Finally Gets a Good Review

In a landmark for molecular gastronomy in America, the movement’s top proponent, Wylie Dufresne, gets his third star for wd-50. A historic review, especially as Frank Bruni expresses the usual reservations about overly cerebral cooking. [NYT]

Bar Boulud finally gets some respect from Alan Richman, who praises its blue-ribbon charcuterie and says of its much-maligned mains, “The worst that can be said…is that the recipes are relentlessly conventional — lamb stew, roasted chicken, boudin blanc. The best is that such a style of cooking is terribly missed.” [GQ]

Restaurant Girl seems to have been distinctly unimpressed with about half of the dishes she tried at Adour, resulting in a lukewarm, two-and-a-half-star review. Ducasse’s latest is not getting off to a great start. [NYDN]

Read more»

Mediavore 

1/16/08

10:00 AM

DOA Makes You Wait Longer to Eat Frankenbeef; Find Dinner on FoodTube

Though the FDA approved the sale of meat and dairy from cloned animals, the Department of Agriculture is asking farmers to postpone introducing cloned animals into the food supply until they can calm retailers and overseas trading partners. [NYT]
Related: FDA to Beef Industry: Send in the Clones

The list of restaurateurs interested in snatching up Tavern on the Green when its lease expires at the end of the year has expanded to include heavyweights such as Danny Meyer, Drew Nieporent, and the Ciprianis. [NYP]

The Great Restaurant Critic Notebook Caper of 2008 continues! With confirmation that it belongs to neither Frank Bruni nor Danyelle "Restaurant Girl" Freeman, the search for its owner goes on. [Eater]
Related: So the Critic Left Her (?) Notes. So What?

Read more»

NewsFeed 

11/14/07

5:09 PM

Dufresne, Goldfarb, and AvroKo Are ‘Unconventional Geniuses,’ in Case You Didn't Know

Last Supper

Wiley Dufresne (left) and Will Goldfarb (right)Photo: Melissa Hom

Liquor Marketing Gimmick #2,391— randomly hand out awards! Tonight Chopin Vodka honors eight “Unconventional Geniuses,” and among them are Wylie Dufresne, the AvroKo design firm, and (per the press release) “pioneer in the pastry movement” Will Goldfarb. Apparently a whopping three-eighths of today’s unconventional geniuses are associated with the restaurant world! (Non-chef picks include director John Cameron Mitchell and artist Kenny Scharf, if you're looking for perspective.) You’ll have to attend the party tonight at Peter White Studio to find out what the top-secret award looks like, but, as a point of reference, Johnnie Walker’s “30 Under 30” (none of them chefs) received personally engraved bottles of Johnnie Black. Dare to dream, unconventional geniuses!

Mediavore 

11/ 6/07

10:15 AM

‘Times’ Discovers Molecular Gastronomy; Invite Yourself to Thanksgiving

Cooking as chemistry has never had more meaning with the use of “hydrocolloid gums — obscure starches and proteins usually relegated to the lower reaches of ingredient labels on products like Twinkies … helping Mr. Dufresne make eye-opening (and critically acclaimed) creations like fried mayonnaise and a foie gras that can be tied into a knot.” [NYT]

Marco Pierre White claims he never reads reviews, and Thomas Keller knows blogs are out there but doesn't read them. [Epicurious]

These tips for dining in high-end restaurants insist that while some may consider it crude to ask the price of a special, even the owner of Aquavit believes "it’s tacky if the waiter does not volunteer the information without having to ask." [Bottomless Dish/Citysearch]

Read more»

Mediavore 

10/31/07

10:00 AM

Big Dreams for Chodorow's Next Showstopper; Perv Attacking Women Outside the Box

Cuozzo fantasizes about the possible successes Jeffrey Chodorow could develop if he signs a lease on the enormous space at Broadway and 63rd Street. They include stellar risotto, traditional dim sum, and haute Lebanese — if only he doesn’t “blow it on another howler like Rocco’s or a limping dud like Kobe Club.” [NYP]

A Queens dumpling celebrity, a chef in northern China before transplanting to the U.S., has been persuaded to supply her specialty to TKettle on St. Marks Place. Get there early, though; she’s only agreed to hand-make 1,000 per day for the bubble-tea shop. [Eat for Victory/VV]

Two young female patrons of the Box have been abducted from outside the club and raped on separate occasions in less than a month, and the predator has not been apprehended. [NYP]

Read more»

Foodievents 

10/25/07

11:32 AM

Liebrandt Previews New Restaurant at Autism Benefit

Paul Liebrandt

We predict he'll call it Restaurant Liebrandt.Photo: Melissa Hom

Last Night's "Autism Speaks to Wall Street" gala at Capitale was a power scene, all right; any event where tables cost up to $100,000 and Bob Wright is there making small talk has clearly left the foodies behind. Which is a shame, because the level of the food was magnificent. The gala's format called for chefs who had been previously “bought” at auction to cook a dinner right there at the table: Thus, Eric Ripert cooked at an oven right next to Wylie Dufresne, Michael Psilakis next to Larry Forgione, who was next to Chris Lee of Gilt, and so on. The tables were close enough to allow tasting and trading, had anyone been interested in doing so (it didn't look like they were). Maybe Darrell Hammond's painfully unfunny routine at the evening's start put off their appetites. Or maybe it was just all the deal-making.

Read more»

The In-box 

10/17/07

9:30 AM

Does the Name Chef Really Work in the Kitchen Anymore?

April Bloomfield

April Bloomfield taking a rare break at the Spotted Pig.Photo: Ellie Miller

Dear Grub Street,

I'm in New York on business for a little while and will have the opportunity to try a handful of restaurants while I'm here. What are some of the top spots in the city where the chef whose name is on the door is still in the kitchen? I've eaten at both Lupa and Otto, but I imagine Mr. Batali's clogs haven't graced either kitchen in some time (though the food and service at both were excellent, especially Frank behind the bar at Otto). It's not that I need to see a celebrity chef in person … I just want to try good food from good chefs who are still plying their trade. For example, my understanding is that Wylie Dufresne actually still works at wd-50 every day, and, as you recently mentioned in one post, Eric Ripert is always in the kitchen at Le Bernardin. Anywhere else?

Thanks,
Meet the Chef


Read more»

NewsFeed 

10/12/07

1:31 PM

Wylie Dufresne's Stomping Grounds Can Now Be Yours

71 Clinton

The hallowed grounds of 71 Clinton Fresh Food.Photo: Robert K. Chin

71 Clinton Street, the former home of 71 Clinton Fresh Food and one of the New York dining world’s most hallowed addresses, will be back on the market next week after a previous deal collapsed. A Craigslist ad that put the rent at $11,500 for 1,200 square feet plus basement has now been removed, presumably because Tower Brokerage is adding the option of an adjacent corner space. Tower honcho Bob Perl says the previous lessee couldn’t handle the high rent and abandoned the space a week and a half ago. “It was an unknown-name type of entity,” Perl told us, speculating that they were inexperienced first-time operators. Want to make their same mistake? Call Bob now!

Retail Listings [Tower Brokerage]

Back of the House 

9/28/07

9:00 AM

Eating the Last Supper

Last Supper

The centerfold for Hot Molecules magazine.Photo: ©from My Last Supper by Melanie Dunea/ CPi. published by Bloomsbury

We’re not much for coffee-table books, but the forthcoming My Last Supper is so shockingly weird, and shockingly good, that we would consider buying it. “What would your last meal be?” is a popular question for chefs, but the answers here are far better than you would expect. (Masa Takayama wants to cook for Orthodox Jews; Wylie Dufresne would eat vegetables “just to placate my mom.”)

Read more»

Neighborhood Watch 

8/17/07

4:31 PM

Gorge on BBQ in Chelsea This Sunday

Chelsea: Hill Country, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, and Mara’s Homemade are all taking part in the Hudson River Park Trust’s Blues BBQ on Pier 54 this Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. [TONY]
East Village: Monday’s Regional Dinner at Mercadito will highlight Mexico’s southern region with a menu featuring banana-leaf-wrapped pork and tres leches cake. [Grub Street]
Flatiron: Hill Country is hiring someone who can cut meat — must love high-energy restaurants. [Eat for Victory/VV]
Lower East Side: Wylie Dufresne switched up the bread at wd-50 from black to white sesame-seeded flatbread. [At the Sign of the Pink Pig]
Midtown West: Today is the last day of the Rockefeller Center greenmarket, but a farmer tells us there may be a deal to bring it back for fall. [Grub Street]
Soho: The developer behind the new glass hotel that will overlook 60 Thompson is Brack Capital Real Estate. [Down by the Hipster]
Times Square: Mickey D’s at 46th Street and Broadway is testing out a new Angus third-pounder that’s both thicker and juicier than their basic patty. [A Hamburger Today]
West Village: Jarnac has reopened with a new paint job, but in a week they’ll shut down again for summer vacation. [Eater]

The Annotated Dish 

8/ 2/07

5:00 PM

Wd-50’s Trout Dish Starts With Forbidden Rice

Wd-50’s kitchen, headed by chef Wylie Dufresne, is the locus of cutting-edge New York cookery. But for all their originality, the dishes are still nice to eat. This ocean trout, with fava bean, forbidden rice, and root-beer-date purée, is especially easy to love. “We started with the rice,” Dufresne tells us, “and then figured out where to go from there.” As always, mouse over the different elements of the dish to read them described in the chef’s own words.

Read more»

The Launch 

5/24/07

9:00 AM

Sam Mason Parties Like Rock Star, Gets Meta

We should have the plastic off in about a week or so … Photo: Melissa Hom

Welcome to the latest installment of the Launch, where Sam Mason, former pastry chef at wd-50, relates the ups and downs of preparing to open Tailor, the swanky restaurant and lounge coming together at 525 Broome Street.

Read more»

The In-box 

5/17/07

5:03 PM

If Wylie Dufresne Is So Original, Why Didn’t He Write a Book?

In our book, one guy is a genius and the other is a goniff.Illustration by Everett Bogue

Note: Readers with only a limited appetite for endless Talmudic hairsplitting over chef etiquette might want to quickly scan this exchange between us and the Gurgling Cod, a blogger even more fascinated by the Marcel Egg Scandal than we are.

Grub Street,
While Marcel Vigneron certainly rips off Wylie Dufresne, the charge of plagiarism does not make sense. There’s no assertion of the work's origination with Vigneron anywhere in the Wired piece that started this whole fuss. If you attend a musical performance, there is no such expectation that, say, Yo-Yo Ma wrote the cello suite he is performing. In this context, cooking is more like playing the cello than writing a book. If Dufresne wants to protect his intellectual property, he should write a book, which would be copyright protected. Like all artists, cooks rip each other off all the time. I suspect that the current mania for molecular gastronomy may work to create a notion of the molecular chef as auteur, rather than artisan, and thus these allegations of plagiarism.
The Gurgling Cod

Read more»

Beef 

5/16/07

12:30 PM

‘Wired’ Tries to Scramble the Case of the Stolen Egg

I am the eggman...no, he is the eggman.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo (Vigneron); Melissa Hom (Dufresne).

Our exposure of Top Chef washout Marcel Vigneron as an alleged egg thief has already had ramifications. Wired products editor Mark McClusky, who wrote the online feature in which Vigneron demonstrates a dish that wd-50 staffers tell us was stolen from them, now all but admits as much in a blog entry. “We've eaten at wd-50 as well — during the editing process here, we did realize that Marcel's ‘Cyber Egg’ is very, very similar to the one that Dufresne serves.” Um, okay. So why did McClusky let the cyber-chef present it as if it were his own?

Read more»

Beef 

5/15/07

9:00 AM

Did Marcel From ‘Top Chef’ Really Just Rip Off Wylie Dufresne?

Really, it's just a coincidence! wd-50's egg, left, and, Vigneron's.Photos courtesy wd-50 and Wired Magazine

Marcel Vigneron, the memorably unpopular molecular gastronomist from last year’s Top Chef, can add the staff of wd-50 to the long list of people that can't stand him. The place is agog at the effrontery of Vigneron, since they believe he has brazenly ripped off one of chef Wylie Dufresne’s best-known dishes. By the looks of a feature in the current issue of Wired, Vigneron has created a showpiece dish of a “cyber egg,” the yolk of which is made of carrot-cardamom purée, surrounded by a white of hardened coconut milk. Very interesting, given that almost the exact same dish (minus a garnish of foam and carrot) has been served often at wd-50, is featured on the restaurant’s website, and, we are told by members of the staff, has been eaten by Vigneron at least twice. “It’s one thing to be inspired by a dish and to change the flavors to make it your own,” says line cook John Bignelli. “But to just steal everything? How can you do that?” Dufresne, staying above the fray, declined to comment.

Tasty Molecules From a Top Chef [Wired]

Related: ‘Top Chef’'s Marcel Doesn't Love Joël Robuchon That Much

NewsFeed 

5/ 8/07

9:00 AM

And the Tablecloths Burn

Revolutions don’t happen overnight, so we weren’t shocked that only one of the three Beard Award categories reversed tradition. Still, last night’s ceremony officially ushered in a new era in fine dining.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/ 7/07

9:00 AM

Tonight’s Beard Awards: a Referendum on Haute Cuisine

Times are changing in the restaurant world – but just how fast? Tonight’s James Beard Awards will help answer the question of whether the traditional tablecloth restaurants, which seem to be on the way out, still wield their old clout in the gastronomic Establishment.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

5/ 2/07

1:55 PM

Beard’s Best Chef Nominees Spill Beans

The Beard nominees for New York City’s Best Chef know that there’s more to the award than who makes the best plate of spaghetti. Looking back at previous years in which he was nominated, Picholine’s Terrance Brennan says, “Our customers were always loyal, but because I wasn’t playing the game, we were under the foodie radar. Being friends with the [Beard] committee helps … I imagine if you know some people, your odds are probably better.”

Read more»

The Launch 

4/12/07

9:00 AM

Sam Mason Joins a Molecular Secret Society

Three mad scientists: from left, Sam Mason, Wylie Dufresne, and Will Goldfarb.Photo: Melissa Hom

Welcome to the latest installment of the Launch, where Sam Mason, former pastry chef at wd-50, relates the ups and downs of preparing to open Tailor, the swanky restaurant and lounge coming together at 525 Broome Street.

Read more»

 

4/ 5/07

12:24 PM

Improve Grub Street? It Hardly Seems Possible! And Yet ...

We’re on the prowl for a few opinionated eaters to tell us how we can improve our (National Magazine Award–nominated!) restaurant coverage. Maybe you have some thoughts on our search engine or would like to see topless shots of Wylie Dufresne. Join us April 9 for a quick on-site survey and you’ll get a small gift — something better than leftovers from that $1,000 pizza, we promise.

Click here to sign up.

In the Magazine 

4/ 2/07

12:00 PM

The Robs Go Oeuf Their Rockers, Platt Stops Short of Giving Morandi a Goose Egg

Morandi: Not so bene.Photo: Jeremy Liebman for New York Magazine

This week’s magazine is an overflowing egg basket of fascinating features. First, Adam Platt proves himself a glutton for punishment: Just a week after successfully securing a table at the Waverly Inn without being a movie star (just the brother of one), he charges head first into the dining crunch at Morandi. Rob and Robin, meanwhile, take on the equally ambitious task of attempting the perfect poached egg — part of an “egg primer” that rounds up their favorite dishes and introduces us to specialty eggs that don’t exactly taste like chicken. Meanwhile, Gael Greene opts to down her egg in fish form at the newly opened counter at Wild Edibles.

Read more»

NewsFeed 

3/19/07

11:20 AM

Hark! James Beard Award Nominations

After much speculation, the 2007 nominees for the James Beard Awards, the Oscars of the restaurant world, are in. Adam Platt, Rob Patronite, Robin Raisfeld, and Grub Street all filled out Beard brackets (or at least revealed whom we’d like to see win) on Friday. Here's how the academy's coming down.

Read more»