Four Seasons co-owner and beekeeper Julian Niccolini may have given up his column in Details (“We lost track,” he shrugged of the lad mag), but he remains the city’s foremost authority on all things gentlemanly. Thus, we were compelled to ask him, when we ran into him sipping Champagne (in a masculine fashion) at Daniel Boulud’s $1,000-a-seat “Black Truffles, Blue Jeans, Burgundy & Blues” benefit for Citymeals-on-Wheels, what he thought of Combos’ recent scientific conclusion that New York is the “least manly” city in all of America. Does Julian, who caters to testosterrific power-lunchers like Ray Kelly and Stephen Schwarzman, agree with that assessment? “Of course I agree with that,” he said.
“This is New York City. This country has been taken over by women, which is a good thing, and New York especially. Oh my God. Can you see any real men around here? Tell me.” Looking around, we spotted chef Danny Meyer and Le Cirque papa Sirio Maccioni, but rather than answer, we pressed “naughty Niccolini” (as he is known in certain circles) to name one prime example of New York masculinity. “Charlie Rose. Vernon Jordan,” he suggested. “Mike Bloomberg I think is pretty manly.” Oh dear. That’s the best we can do? Well, he does like fatty snacks, at least.