The “but” I shall elucidate at the lovely Donna da Vine — and as a bonus I’ll interview the owner-sommelier, Alyssa Becker, on the subject of why she has always been bored by Pinot Noir in particular and Burgundy in general. (Incidentally, no Pinot Noir will be sold, but there will be Merlot.)
Needless to say, I think Alyssa is bonkers. I once — in the early nineties, a decade before the novel Sideways — embarked on my own Central California Pinot Noir–tasting odyssey to drown sundry disappointments. Perhaps novelist Rex Pickett was in those tasting rooms.
Sideways is great, though, for reasons other than my own obsessions. It’s a meditation — like so many these days, some of them directed and/or produced by Judd Apatow — on the American male’s quest to hold on to (or regress to) the irresponsibility of childhood. More Monday, after a few glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon.