When 7 for All Mankind’s then—startlingly expensive $110 “premium fit” jeans hit department stores in the early aughts, they not only captured the hearts and hind parts of urban sophisticates, they ushered in a designer arms race that caused shoppers to rush the Barneys jeans bar for the latest hot label, from Ksubi (Australian denim!) to True Religion (cool pockets!) to A.P.C. (fancy-man jeans!). Soon, prices were shamelessly skyrocketing to over $300 a pop, with many otherwise rational people paying up. Lately, however, a new sentiment has emerged: The jeans are too damn high. Designer-denim fatigue is, of course, partially a reaction to the economy, but it’s also a reflection of the increased availability—and dramatically improved quality—of affordable jeans. Within the same circles that once only deigned to wear $380 Hudsons (which, by the way, still have their faithful fans), an on-trend and flattering pair of Gap 1969s or Uniqlo Selvedges is now often considered just as good or better. In the pages ahead, we take a look at the new, more democratic denim landscape, identifying ten great-looking pairs for under $100, chatting up a handful of 24-7 denim-heads, and torture-testing three of our favorite pairs at F.I.T’s new denim lab to see which brand holds up best. Guess what: The cheapest pair wins.
— Rachel Baker

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