A-D

Alexandre Herchcovitch   bio | collection | details

• British Vogue: Herchcovitch took grandeur to a new ghetto for autumn.
• lookonline.com: ...one part warrior princess, one part Victorian, and one part ‘Pollyanna’ with Eastern European overtures.
• New York Post: It was eccentric yet satisfying.
• Paper: Original collection of harsh juxtapositions is very Joan of Arc meets Drew Barrymore.
• Style.com: Alexandre Herchcovitch presents a confident and romantic collection.

Alice Roi bio | collection
• The Daily: Alice Roi celebrates her 30th birthday with a stunning, elegant show.
• New York Post: Alice Roi showed a thoroughly gorgeous, off-kilter, triumphant line for fall.
• New York Times: Alice Roi deliciously subverts feminine elements.
• Paper: One of our favorite shows.

Alice Temperley bio
• British Vogue: Evening dresses rippled to the ankles and plunged to show off a girl's greatest charms and the best thing to dress up in.
• Style.com: Although her sophomore collection showed an awareness of current trends, the decoration changed more than the concept.

Anna Sui bio | collection
• British Vogue: Provides a spiritual home for rock chicks and boho belles alike.
• IHT: Produced a colorful, upbeat show that was filled with charm.
• lookonline.com: Stays true to her aesthetic, with an emphasis on volume and lots of shine.
• Style.com: Fashion's consummate magpie surprises with how pared-down and grown-up the collection felt.
• New York Times: Collection marked a rich and slightly dark new direction, with really appealing clothes.
• WWD: Manages to temper her typical girly abundance without sacrificing its appeal.

Baby Phat bio | collection
• The Daily: Designer Kimora Lee Simmons showed relative restraint with her collection this season.
• Fashion Addict Diary: She pretty much pirated the assorted looks from last years Dior, Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga.
• New York Post: Kimora Lee Simmons surprised us all with a more sophisticated than expected Baby Phat line...Still, Kimora’s knack for slinky gowns, jumpsuits and leotards delivered some tackiness near the end.
• Paper: Lots of amazing hot looks from hiphopsters creme de la creme.

Badgley Mischka bio | collection
• British Vogue: A collection for those that wanted to show off their assets as well as an eye for flashy fashion.
• New York Times: Mr. Badgley and Mr. Mischka, to their credit, swept the floor clean of vintage lace and jangles, only to replace them with a cacophony of shimmering silver and emerald gowns with big ribbon bows in fabrics better left to Christmas wrap.
• Papier: Surprising colors add just the right balance of light to the gothic collection.
• Style.com: If the results were somewhat uneven, it was good to see designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka trying to shake things up.
• WWD: Combines baffling inspirations to produce an uncertain collection.

Barbara Tfank
• WWD: It's easy to see why this designer's old-school wares are a staple of socialites, since beautifully-made clothes, like diamonds, are forever.

Behnaz Sarafpour bio | collection
• British Vogue: Not-to-be-missed show with sleek, tight, crisp and clean designs.
• IHT: Creates clothes for busy young women’s real lives.
• New York Post: Re-imagines the new-wave girl with exquisitely-tailored pieces.
• Style.com Displays knack for little black dress and topper, especially when kept simple.
• WWD: Draws power from her archfemininity, with a delightful set of clothes that felt young and fresh.

Betsey Johnson bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Presents upbeat, funky collection that is typically young, sexy and flirtatious.
• New York Post: Dazzles with 70s inspirations and mosaic prints.
• WWD: Shows slightly scattered collection with plenty of the sexy, girly frocks that have made her calling card.

Bill Blass bio | collection
• British Vogue: Presents endless array of sophisticated wardrobe choices.
• IHT: The collection took a younger, softer direction in a sophisticated, but light-handed, show.
• lookonline.com All within the Blass vocabulary.
• Papierblog: Captures concept of a woman who is serious and focused, but in a cool, calm-and-collected way.
• New York Post: Makes strong statement with prissy-yet-sexy workwear that retains label’s trademarks.
• New York Times: The designs are the same as they ever were.
• Style.com Channels namesake designer to produce collection of throwback traditions.
• WWD: Shows real clothes, a lot of them very pretty.

Brian Reyes collection
• British Vogue: Easy to see why this designer is one of the new best friends of the New York fashion scene.
• lookonline.com: Disappointing show is overly repetitive, with too many really sheer pieces and clothes that didn’t fit well.
• Style.com Surprised and disappointed many with sophomore slump.
• New York Times: Could have benefited with more time to prepare his fall collections.

Buckler bio
• Paper: Wild hair and druggy-eyed makeup conveyed a definite theme for the collection: fuck-up punk rockers and porn stars, the types who after a night of too much beer and wild dancing, end up taking a trip downtown.

Calvin Klein bio | collection
• British Vogue: Soft, subtle, sophisticated and slouchy are the only four words you will need next autumn to decipher the Francisco Costa vision for Calvin Klein.
• IHT: Francisco Costa’s complex work of might have worked for the designer's signature collection, but not for the brand founded by fashion's king of clean.
• New York Times: Most women would find the look untenable and fussy, if not stifling.
• Style.com Costa charting his own course in seventh season at helm with strong fall collection.
• WWD: Achieved differing degrees of success; some lovely enough to take your breath away, others overwrought in their artsiness.

Carlos Miele bio | collection
• IHT: Unwisely decided to calm his South American spirit for the ubiquitous pallid and polite look of uptown New York.

Carmen Marc Valvo bio | collection
• WWD: Gave his brand of glamor a refreshingly relaxed attitude.

Carolina Herrera bio | collection
• British Vogue: ...the very essence of luxe for those that have it all and dress accordingly.
• lookonline.com: Misses the mark with colorful prints.
• New York Post: A splendid line, but the red-and-purple finale ball- gown looked as if it were made for Fashion "faux pas" Barbie.
• New York Times: Carolina Herrera's collection was remarkably irrelevant.
• Style.com: A fifties inspired collection with modern ease.
• WWD: Puzzles with a collection that incorporates perhaps too many artistic elements.

Chado Ralph Rucci bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Had all the glamor of the best French couture shows, with unbelievable workmanship.
• Style.com Never about big surprises or theatrics, but the workmanship of these clothes is truly marvelous, and always worth coming back for.

Chaiken bio | collection
• British Vogue: produces no-fuss silhouettes without being boring to crate pieces everyone will want next season.
• Style.com Filled with modern, everyday pieces that work as well at the office or the bar.
• WWD: Shows off his precision cut and fit by taking his clean, unfettered aesthetic to an even more minimal place.

Charles Nolan bio | collection
• Papierblog: No real energy or personality to the show, with most of the designs depending on a belt to provide visual zest.
• WWD: Tries too hard to do too much and resulted in an all-over-the-place lineup that lacked his usual refinement, quality and clean styling.

Costello Tagliapietra bio | collection
• British Vogue: Shows a focused collection of wearable clothes notable for their innovative ways of cutting.
• Lookonline.com: Accessorizes their simple and beautifully-crafted, draped jersey dresses with raccoon hats and muffs for a feeling of downplayed luxury.
• Papierblog: Fall collection was fundamentally boxy, with dresses so similar they started to look the same.
• Style.com: Needs to spend less time on luxe fluff if they’re committed to growing bigger.
• WWD: Let the clothes—slim, sexy and sophisticated—and their impeccable tailoring do the talking.

Cynthia Rowley bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Shows upbeat collection of signature dresses, blouses, tunics, and coats, very few of which were not done in some shade of blue.

Cynthia Steffe bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Disappointing. Too many wide Bermudas, too much unrelieved black, too many skimpy pants.
• New York Post: A pristine collection inspired by the "fresh-faced, rosy-cheeked schoolgirl".
• WWD: Balances sweet with a military motif so that cute is never cloying.

Dana Buchman bio
• WWD: Moves collection in an increasingly fashion-y direction with use of details

Daryl K
• Style.com
• WWD: Sends out winner after winner of lightweight, layer-friendly pieces.

Derek Lam bio | collection
• British Vogue: Has gone bold and bright but still beautiful.
• lookonline.com: Concise collection with much attention paid to cut, construction, detail, and proportion.
• Style.com: His strongest collection to date made up for in details what it lacked in showstoppping gowns.
• WWD: Has a knack for sensing how far to go, and he struck a mostly perfect balance with his take on contemporary city life.

Diesel bio | collection
• WWD: Delivers an eclectic, if not provocative, mix for fall that could benefit from a good edit.

DKNY bio | collection
• British Vogue: There was an ease and innocence about Karan's younger sister line.
• KissMeStace: The show was the fashion equivalent of a mime on a street, no words to speak to me.
• Style.com: Karan paid close attention to the young urban woman's current uniform.
• WWD: This was DKNY at its best, a delightful expression of Karan's obsession with contrast, here kept in perfect check.

Diane Von Furstenberg bio | collection
• British Vogue: The show was dedicated to women - their strength and their fearlessness, but lost none of the femininity and fluttering eyelashes that DVF has got wrapped, just like her cult dresses.
• International Herald Tribune: A winning ode to the working girl.
• Kiss Me Stace: The show was beautiful, with silhouettes that celebrate women.
• New York Times: ...her most believable theme in years.
• Paper: She built on the success of last season with bold graphic prints and a knowing '50s feeling that evoked Anita Ekberg and high fashion Italian matrons.
• Style.com: Urges working women to be sexy ‘every day, all day’.
• WWD: Von Furstenberg's core practicality reined in the [Western] references for her lineup of savvy, controlled tailoring with plenty of curves -- sexy for sure, but delivered with just enough nine-to-five restraint when necessary.

Donna Karan bio | collection
• Style.com: Went back to the archives for her fall inspirations, with bodysuits and leggings forming the backbone of her collection.

Doo.Ri bio | collection
• lookonline.com: The former Geoffrey Beene assistant continues to show her formidable talent and a fondness for many of the same staples and signatures that her former mentor was famous for.
• Style.com: It could have looked old-fashioned; instead, it came off as refreshingly modern, a welcome sight at a time when a number of Chung's peers seem stuck in the past (pick your decade).

E-I

Ellen Tracy bio

• WWD: Turns out sportswear that has spunk without getting too racy.

Escada

• WWD: Fall collection went every which way but chic, sometimes it's jazzed up to gaudy effect.

GenArt bio | collection
• New York Post: Among GenArt’s three designers, there was one stand-out: H Fredriksson.

Gustavo Arango bio
• Papierblog: Monochromatic creations were sleek and sophisticated, but still youthful and even delicate.
• WWD: Collection is one that should go beyond the needs of the Oscars crowd.

Hanuk
• Paper: His small collection was just as quirky as he is... but he disappointed with his slightly half-assed efforts.

Heatherette bio | collection
• New York Post: Presents wild mix of larger-than-life and wearable New York-themed, rock-star wear.
• Papierblog: Amazing collection that was an “Ode to New York”, with young, playful silhouettes and graffiti themes.
• WWD: Sends out a show that sang New York with sparkle and showgirl shine.

Henry Jacobson
• lookonline.com: ...there were too many tricky items (Liberace capes for men) that seemed forced, contrived, and overly designed.
• Papierblog: Overall the line harkened back to Western inspired styles, while maintaining an allure all it’s own. A first showing that did not disappoint.

J-N

James Coviello bio | collection

• WWD: Takes trip, with an occasional stumble, down history lane.

Jasmin Shokrian bio | collection
• British Vogue: ...the result wasn't as wolf-whistlingly spectacular as we thought.
• New York Times: ...well conceived, but...didn't seem connected to flesh-and-blood reality.
• Paper: The sensibility was a bit topsy turvy zen chic. Lots of "oops the sewing machine slipped" details that added a kooky edge to the elegance.
• Style.com: Layered as [her pieces] were with what she referred to in her program notes as capelets and collars (dickeys, essentially), they came off as just too tricky.

Jedda Kahn
• Papierblog: Executes over-the-top, ghetto fabulous collection with style and even class.

Jenni Kayne bio | collection
• British Vogue: Kayne had the wardrobe for the girl of today, with all her quirks and charms.
• Style.com: If her collection lacked focus, especially the suiting, which veered from a sleek update of YSL's smoking to flaring gauchos, blame it on growing pains....Her dresses, on the other hand, were on message.

Jill Stuart bio | collection
• British Vogue: Enlivens a predominantly black collection with futuristic details and Sixties sex kitten appeal.
• Paper: Obsessed with retro looks, the designer spanks vintage artifice onto smashingly new fashion currency.
• Style.com: Jill Stuart's fall collection marked a change in direction, with some looks suggesting a new horizon, and a few others pointing toward a dead end.
• WWD: Goes from gosh to Goth with a new, serious look.



J. Mendel bio | collection
• lookonline.com For sheer brilliance, nothing can beat Gilles’ inventive take on this season’s ‘most wanted’.
• Style.com Safe collection demonstrates that he’d be wise to push his clothes—especially his furs—forward.
• WWD: Displayed equal skill with the pretty chiffon frocks he's been exploring for the last few seasons as with the fur for which he’s known.




John Bartlett bio | collection
• Fashion Addict Diary: The look on the runway was very much Anderson Cooper On Assignment.



José Ramon Réyes
• lookonline.com: ...epitomizes the idea of young couture - polished yet relaxed, sporty and effortless, and speaks volumes about the designer’s love of unexpectedly mixing elements of sportswear, preppy, and sophisticated. A young designer to watch.
• New York Post: The collection is perfect for the New York girl who imagines herself to be a bit like Margot Tenenbaum...utterly cool.
• WWD: Reinvents Margot Tennenbaum with sophistication and élan.

Kai Kuhne, Myself bio | collection
• Paper: Not everything worked (sometimes the proportions were a bit awkward) but when it did work (and alot of it did) it was GREAT!
• Style.com: The quality of the craftsmanship was clear throughout, but Kühne, ever exuberant, said that he "wanted life in the construction." This translated, at times, into pieces that were overwrought.
• WWD: On his own, he seems to be missing the softness and beauty of his former alliance.

Karl Lagerfeld bio | collection
• lookonline.com:Uses inventive layering to give attitude and infuse a feeling of function, with nothing too delicate or too pretty.
• Style.com:Several items stood out in his first New York show, a few for the wrong reasons and a few for the right.

Keanan Duffty bio | collection
• WWD: Cheers to the designer, who gives us a hard-edged collection with attitude to spare.

Kenneth Cole bio | collection
• The Daily: Kenneth Cole shows fabulous military-inspired clothes.
• lookonline.com: ...nothing looked forced- it was wearable, understandable, relatable, and easy.
• New York Post: ...walked the line between slim and sloppy perfectly.
• Style.com: Kenneth Cole sticks to what he does best.

Lacoste bio | collection
• British Vogue: The alligator is getting ever groovy under the creative direction of Christophe Lemaire who proves that it's not just the tennis players that should be wearing this Lacoste.
• lookonline.com: The Lacoste collection continues to bring the iconic label into the 21st century through [Lemaire's] mixing the company’s trademark preppy, slightly retro vibe with a street aesthetic.
• New York Post: ...completely wearable...But please, skip the poufy culottes.
• Paper: Old-money country club preppy plus ironic '80s-hip-hop preppy equals new preppy for Teen Vogue-worshipping babies.
• Style.com: At times, his take on the hip-hop theme was too literal...but [designer Christophe] Lemaire also offered his share of covetable separates.

Luca Luca bio | collection
• British Vogue: Wants to put every girl at every party in choice after choice for the cocktail hour and beyond.
• Style.com Holds smaller show filled with subtle allure, lovely dresses.
• WWD: Lacks focus shown in past, but continues to successfully mine ladylike ease he’s toyed with before.

Luella Bartley bio | collection
• British Vogue: Finally a show that left you on a high.
• Kiss Me Stace: Collection is lovely despite heavy-handed British Schoolgirl theme.
• Paper: A gorgeous homage to the chic girlfriends of late '50s London Teddy Boys.
• Style.com: ...she riffed on American rockabilly acts like Carl Perkins by way of the Clash...This territory is a well-worked one in fashion, but Bartley managed to shake up the mix with a few ladylike Chanel-isms.
• New York Times: Plucks ideas from divergent musical genres to make a melody.
• WWD: A rabble-rousing ode to dressing on the sexier side of nice.

Malo
• WWD: New designer takes company in amore fashion-y direction in first New York outing, but shouldn’t stray too far too soon.

Marc by Marc Jacobs bio | collection
• British Vogue: Brings easy, breezy style to a young, free lifestyle.
• IHT: A familiar story: lively pieces thrown artfully together, but often with a lumpy effect in the heavy shapes.
• New York Post: He did show a couple of cute pieces, but we cannot imagine who would set aside half a month's rent money to buy a shapeless gunnysack that sweeps the floor.
• Style.com Evokes the nineties with an exercise in proportion-play.
• New York Times: Easier, cleaner variations of main collection silhouettes are adorable.
• WWD: Adds yet another cool dimension to the existing allure of the collection’s DIY possibilities.

Marc Jacobs bio | collection
• British Vogue: If there is such a thing as the shape of things to come then tonight it was at Marc Jacobs.
• IHT: Makes bold bid for change with layers of fabric and texture, proves he’s ahead of the pack.
• Kiss Me Stace: Collection a bit too familiar, like Jacobs took the worst of his Spring show last Fall and ran with a bigger, more disastrous version.
• lookonline.com: Displays how to borrow from past yet still create a fresh and innovative collection.
• New York Times: At a time when our expectations for American fashion seem diminished by a talent for endorsing the idiotic, Mr. Jacobs managed to lift them....an American designer had accurately captured the fractured quality of contemporary life.
• Paper: It was ridiculous in the best possible sense. The most incredible Marc Jacobs show I've ever seen.
• Style.com: ...a troupe of vagabonds in muted layers of plaid flannel, oversize knits, skirts worn atop pants, legwarmers, and tams whose cumulative effect was paradoxically chic.
• WWD: Delivers furious explosion of ebullient fashion in a blatant treatise on latter-day grunge.

Maria Cornejo
• Style.com: All she needs is a larger venue closer to the tents that will give her collection the breathing room and the attention it deserves.

Mary Ping bio | collection
• Papierblog: The show...was worth the wait, I would say it was the Carringtons (Dynasty) meet the Stones (Rolling). The Ping line had a very punky/ rock edge with tailored looks and 80’s style dresses skinny pants, and sharp blazers.

Matthew Williamson bio | collection
• Style.com: Show was decidedly toned down and generally repetitive.

Max Azria bio | collection
• British Vogue: Plays with texture and explores more interesting shapes in more exclusive collection.
• Fashion Addict: Still stuck in 2005 with shorts, leggings, riding boots, etc.
• Style.com: An exploration in origami that occasionally got lost in the folds.
• WWD: Employs a nip-and-tuck m.o. with architectural details in new look of higher-priced line.

Michael Kors bio | collection
• British Vogue: Collection of comfy cool, that lets women be themselves and shine.
• IHT: Made being young fun with his take on collegiate style.
• Lookonline.com: Seems to be designing on auto-pilot; work has become rather robotic and formulaic at this point.
• Papierblog: Remained the dictator of his work instead of allowing the concept to overshadow his own signature style (as several other designers have done).
• Style.com: Was a sure-to-please match for fans of his trademark mix of tony chic and all-American prep, but it wouldn't hurt to let his eyes wander for a more modern muse.
• New York Times: Clichéd theme of love stories and collegiate wear still manages to be fun.
• WWD: Most of the collection was turf he has covered before, but there were still lots of great clothes.

Miss Sixty
• New York Post: ...for a company usually known for bright colors and a sexy, young edge, it was a subdued debut.

Monique Lhuillier bio | collection
• British Vogue: Attention to detail and love of smoky shades and luxury fabrics combine with a crisp, clean take that the smart city girl will love.
IHT: Collection occasionally looked like perambulating drapes, but it had a lot of gentle charm.
• Lookonline.com Shows a typically pretty collection that also featured several noteworthy coats.
• New York Post: Presents a collection that remained true to the feminine form despite voluminous shapes.
• Style.com Displays her strengths with award-show friendly gowns, but day clothes suffered from vintage-style heaviness.
• New York Times: Comes close to effortless with serene presentation.
• WWD: Succeeds in making ladies look lovely with gracefully-cut jackets, cocktail dresses, dramatic evening gowns and chic coats.

Nanette Lepore bio | collection
• WWD: Presents girlish themes that work well with sportswear yet didn't translate into evening's siren gowns.

Narciso Rodriguez bio | collection
• British Vogue: Knows what a woman wants and delivers with crisp graphic cuts that are uncompromising with clutter.
IHT: A pretty collection, not any radical departure, but showing his icy aesthetic dissolving with a feminine touch.
• Style.com Plays with volume and its absence with structured yet sexy collection.
• New York Times: Not only was this collection different, it was also right.
• WWD: Features his minimalist mantra in a beautiful lineup that felt not only new, but necessary.

Nathan Jenden
• Style.com:Though it might have benefited from an edit, this was a well-made collection that shows Jenden has a strong voice of his own.

Neil Barrett
• Style.com Works two themes, formal eveningwear and the army, for his debut women’s collection.
• WWD: Offers a capsule collection of sleek if literal black-tie options for the ladies.

Nicole Miller bio | collection
• lookonline.com: ...a wonderfully visual and tactile collection that evoked a vintage, ethnic, eclectic feeling but yet remained polished, modern and wearable.
• New York Times: Nicole Miller's ladylike clothes looked out of step.

Nicole Romano
• Paper: Collection seems more grown up this season, with darker shades, longer lengths, and perhaps a little less flirtatious.

O-S

Oscar de la Renta bio | collection
• British Vogue: A couturier at the top of his profession shows clothes at the height of luxury.
• IHT: This was a faultless de la Renta show from the ritzy daytime mix of metallic brocade top and gray flannel pants, or brocade pants and cabled sweater, through to red carpet glamour.
• lookonline.com: Hits all the right notes in his inimitable way, infusing luxury with a modern, youthful vibe.
• New York Post: Hits his stride with cocktail dresses in inky colors.
• New York Times: Knocks out the themes of the season in sensible, impressive fashion, with his own reckless, knowing touches.
• Style.com: A memorable night with all of de la Renta's signatures present for fall.
• WWD: Doesn’t quite work the kinks out of a collection that’s too much of a good thing.

Peter Som bio | collection
• British Vogue: His winter wonderland is dainty and delicate yet with a twist that’s ideal for the girl who wants to be more than meets the eye.
• IHT: Played nicely with volume, but collection otherwise seemed relentlessly girlish.
• lookonline.com: Had some noteworthy coats, dresses, and separates, but too much of it was bogged down with unnecessary details.
• Style.com: Delivers a youthful yet elegant fall collection that will certainly pass muster in high society.
• WWD: Work is best served straight up, with a dash or two of an offbeat detail to balance the prettiness factor, though occasionally he laid on the offbeat a little too thick.

Phi collection
• Style.com Collection marked another step in the slow but sure-footed evolution of Melbostad’s vision.
• WWD: Best looks were those that struck a balance of the hard and soft.

3.1 Phillip Lim
• Style.com Appeals with pretty-but-cool clothes that don’t try too hard.
• New York Times: Pretty clothes with a dose of reality, inspired by Prince.
• WWD: Adds sense of contrast to collection of polished pretty, keeping looks refined without being too precious.

Ports
• Paper: In place of drama are a lot of dependable classic pieces.
• WWD: Makes a good argument for pragmatism with her fall collection, but goes slightly too far with some tricky details.

Proenza Schouler bio | collection
• British Vogue: From day to silver lace dresses or lamé coats, it's no wonder they are the most popular double act in town.
• IHT: Show was so good because the designers pulled off a look that was aesthetically pleasing as well as beautifully realized.
• New York Times Are in position to tell us something about their times, but instead gave us something we’ve already seen.
• Style.com Sexy, sophisticated collection shook the audience out of its fashion week malaise.
• WWD: Another beautiful outing from this young pair.

Ralph Lauren bio | collection
• New York Times: Demonstrated pure ease and elegance with a collection that drew on masculine elements in monochromatic tones.
• Style.com: Collection inspired by a "modern shooting party" will work perfectly for those whose idea of the great outdoors is the jaunt from townhouse to town car.

Ralph Lauren Menswear bio | collection
• IHT: It all came out as an exercise in fashion nobility, neither ancient nor modern but very Ralph Lauren.
• New York Times: It's undeniably sexy. Patchwork jeans and corduroys looked terrific, especially with shrunken wool blazers, and three-piece chalk-stripe suits with wide ties (a nod to Mr. Lauren's roots) were unabashedly masculine.

Rebecca Taylor bio | collection
• WWD: Kicks off second decade of in fashion with a pretty fall collection of sweet floral dresses and delicate lace camis.

Reem Acra bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Shows perfectly dreamy and ethereal dresses with a very youthful feeling.
• Paper: Try editing anything out of this collection filled with timeless elegance, crazy gorgeous lace jobs, and silhouettes which make your legs look longer than a day with Janice Dickinson.
• New York Post: Leaves one breathless in the best possible way with understated elegance.
• WWD: Takes another giant step forward by articulating confidence and talent in beautiful collection.

Richard Chai bio | collection
• British Vogue: New favorite took pretty pretty another way—the innovative forward thinking route.
• lookonline.com: Presents thoughtful, beautifully-cut, and architecturally-based collection that is all about being comfy and cozy.
• Style.com Showed a new emphasis on evening, but one missed the really wearable day clothes to which he usually gives a distinctive spin.
• WWD: Too bad the fashion flock has to wait six months till this admirable collection hits the stores.

Rodarte collection
• Style.com: Shows a collection that was exceptional in its sophistication, though emphatically not for day dressing.
• WWD: Doesn’t disappoint, With pinked and frilled cocktail dresses and evening gowns packed with intense detail.

Ruffian bio | collection
• British Vogue: ...grown-up elegance, which might make some stylistas feel frumpy but others will embrace the prim and make it sexy.
• The Daily: The show was breezy and beautiful and generally well received.
• IHT:Why do even young American designers want to dress only uptown girls? At Ruffian, the name was in contrast to the couture-inspired clothes.
• lookonline.com: It was elegant, ladylike, and modern and youthful all at the same time.
• Paper: Classy, old-world glamour that's very refreshing.
• New York Times: ...fresh, super-wearable clothes.
• Style.com: They now sense the need to head in [a more modern] direction.

Sari Gueron bio | collection
• British Vogue: City chic with a twist.
• Style.com: Her fall show didn't live up to some fans' heightened expectations.

Sass & Bide bio | collection
• British Vogue: The show was sexy but, above all, was for the Sassy woman who now wants to turn heads as much in her mini dress or in an after dark floating number as in her high collar and tight jeans.
• New York Post: The Grecian goddess reigned supreme.



Sofada
• Papierblog: Captures the pinup-style expertly with designs that are flirtatious, yet sophisticated and ladylike.

Sue Stemp bio | collection
• Paper: A very girly, very leggy show.
• Papierblog: Stemp’s designs were heavily lingerie-inspired, which, depending on execution, came across as either whimsical or flimsy.

Sweet Face bio | collection
• Style.com: Fashion outsiders will think it's the very definition of cool.

T-Z

Thakoon bio | collection
• IHT: A fresh couture-inspired collection, with delicate details and curves.
• Style.com Needs to keep earlier focus and clarity of vision as his collections gain in size.
• WWD: Is becoming one of New York's most promising attractions, though several looks felt out of step with his usual sense of lightness.

Thom Browne
• Paper: The collection fully capitalized on Browne's talent for integrating edgy and super creative detailing into classically tailored, wearable and even sometimes formal suits.

ThreeAsFour bio | collection
• British Vogue: It had the tones of the underground and the innovation that the downtown love to toast.
• Style.com: ...the collection was mostly focused and accessible.
• WWD: With great coats, such as a hooded trench or an olive cashmere wool cape edged with a sculptural ruffle, pretty patchwork dresses and even a simple and elegant bias-cut evening dress, it was easily their most wearable offering to date.

Tracy Reese bio | collection
• New York Times: Expands beyond repertory of flirty dresses with glamorous sweaters and slim, pleated skirts.

Trovata collection
• British Vogue: Mixes old with new, teases with tradition and colors that kind of clash, but in the end look kinda' cute so you just risk it.
• New York Times Delivers a collection of retreaded collegiate clothes with an Alpine streusel theme.
• Style.com: Though they have obvious talent, they need to get down to the hard work of fabric selection, construction, and fit.
• WWD: As whimsical as the quartet's delivery was, the designers backed it up with very real clothes that should keep them high atop retailers' "yes" pile.

TSE bio | collection
• Style.com: ...some will question whether she was progressive enough or has injected enough of her own sensibility into the designs...but she was creative in pushing the boundaries of what can be done with cashmere.
• WWD: Returns to runway with coats, woven pieces that should fly out of stores and into a smart wardrobe.

Tuleh bio | collection
• Kiss Me Stace: The feminine mix of glamor and practicality is a breath of fresh air.
• lookonline.com: ...the best pieces were the serious clothes that were almost severe in their pared down construction and lack of ornamentation.
• New York Times: Dominated the runways with strangely beautiful clothes.
• Style.com: ...one of [Bryan Bradley's] prettiest shows to date....loyal Tuleh fans...will find the quality and loveliness of this collection reassuringly familiar.
• WWD: Wards off any hint of preciousness with plenty of attitude.

United Bamboo bio | collection
• Paper: Delicious smorgasbord of blacks and whites, but the white gym socks worn over leggings with dress shoes left us scratching our heads a little.
• Style.com: United Bamboo's fall presentation embraced the eighties revival wholeheartedly, a little too much so at times.

Vena Cava
• New York Times: The Vena Cava designers displayed a smart sense of the dressy urban bohemian.
• Paper: These guys put in big effort.
• Style.com: The installation was indeed homey, but the outfits were nothing if not sophisticated. The most pleasing thing about these clothes, though, was that they were both fresh and familiar.

Vera Wang bio | collection
• British Vogue: Proves once again that there’s more to Vera Wang than wedding dresses.
• New York Times: The colors were so uniformly muted, the shapes so determinately plain, that the effect was sad, like visiting a rundown zoo.
• Style.com More or less a typically feminine Wang collection, but nothing that a sharper edit couldn't fix.
• IHT:The woman she created looked too self-consciously immersed in art and craft.

Verrier
• Kiss Me Stace: Unique, though quite simple, outing shows much promise.
• New York Times: Verrier channels Schiaparelli in a lovely collection.
• Style.com: Ashleigh Verrier’s sophomore effort is breezily sophisticated, if less tightly focused.

Vivienne Tam bio | collection
• WWD: Opened with a lovely grouping of dresses, bombers, fitted coats, and skirts, but then continued with logo-heavy trappings that seemed unnecessary and distracting.

Wunderkind bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Earthy, relaxed collection had interesting juxtapositions and some noteworthy pieces.
• Style.com: Successfully tapped into fashion's prevailing Zeitgeist, in a stylized and luxe way that is all his own.

Y & Kei bio | collection
• lookonline.com: Duo in more sophisticated mood this season, with simple and unadorned yet highly dramatic collection.
• Style.com: ...a very pretty if sometimes aimless presentation.

Y-3 collection
• Style.com: Growing pains were evident—they need to get over their identity crisis—but still a few pieces were worth seeking out.
• WWD: Packed in real clothes that ranged from the sporty staples to more polished urban fare.

Zac Posen bio | collection
• British Vogue: Kal Ruttenstein, to whom the show was dedicated, would have been very proud.
• IHT: Sent out a powerful, womanly collection that was still young and fresh.
• lookonline.com: A newly restrained and pared down Zac Posen; in fact, if you didn’t know whose show you were sitting at, you would not have known it was Zac.
• New York Times: Had some terrific pieces in his collection, but the aggressive, tough-girl styling became a kind of dishonest distraction, making you not see the good elements.
• Style.com Despite some out-of-step looks, this was a strong outing for the designer; fashion's It boy is growing up.

Zang Toi bio | collection
• Fashion Addict: Delivers beautiful gowns as usual, but could use more direction.
• lookonline.com: Goes a bit overboard in some spots with his ode to the Upper East Side.