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Daily Fashion & Runway News
Latin for the phrase "water shield," Aquascutum's roots are deep in rain protection. British tailor John Emary founded the London-based label in 1851 out of his shop at 46 Regent Street, where it remains today. And after Emary claimed to invent the first waterproof woolen cloth, the company became famous for creating trench coats for Crimean War and World War I soldiers. In 1897, Aquascutum began outfitting King Edward VII, the first in a long line of royal patrons. The women's line launched in 1900, and throughout the twentieth century, the brand enjoyed a high profile thanks to Cary Grant and Lauren Bacall in the forties and fifties, Churchill in the sixties, Peter Sellers’s Inspector Clouseau in many of the Pink Panther films, and Margaret Thatcher in the eighties. But Aquascutum's allure fizzled as years passed, and ownership settled with the Japanese company Renown in 1990 (in 2005, Kaleido Holdings bought a 22 percent share). Things began to look up in 2006, when Renown/Kaleido hired Kim Winser as CEO away from Pringle of Scotland to revitalize the brand à la longtime rival and heritage brand Burberry (Burberry’s known for plaid while Aquascutum’s associated with a check). Since Winser joined, the international growth of the brand has boomed, thanks in no small part to the placement of celebrities like Pierce Brosnan and Gisele Bündchen in the label's campaigns. Success is also the result of co-designers Graeme Fidler (menswear) and Michael Herz (womenswear), whose fame has escalated since the turnaround. By August 2008, mentions arose in the press about a flagship store in New York to add to the company’s London and Tokyo retail repertoire. In October of the same year, Renown went on the record about trying to sell off the label.
“They've totally deconstructed things and re-worked them in quite a Martin Margiela way but more glamorous. The thought process is quite Margiela, a weenie bit early Helmut Lang but it somehow ends up feeling quite Lanvin. They've really looked at Aquascutum's heritage and not just plucked an idea out of the blue.”—Nancy Rohde The Independent
“He [Michael Herz] firmly believes such a design methodology, coupled with the atelier environment in which they work alongside pattern cutters, seamstresses and tailors, has freed them to improvise and respond to garments as they come to life. It means they can decide on the spur of the moment to elongate a jacket into a coat because they simply love the proportions, or to unpick the elastic from a men's blouson jacket and attach it to the hem of a simple lace shift dress because it just looks cute, or to bead the makeshift elastic belts (originally used in the absence of proper belts) and include them in the final collection because there's something delightfully irreverent about them.”—Cat Callender The Independent
Joanna Sykes