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Cristobal Balenciaga started his couture house back in 1918, influencing the next century of fashion with his dramatic, sculptural silhouettes. The line, dormant for nearly 30 years, stepped into the ready-to-wear arena in the nineties, reproducing classic looks for a minimalism-obsessed fashion world. Today the brand’s as hot as ever, thanks to the futuristic avant-gardism of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière. Under his influence, the fashion house has become a bellwether in the industry, influencing trends at all levels of the market. Shining moments have included the inimitably sought-after robot leggings, the reinterpreted ikat print, the new jodhpur, equestrian helmets, outrageous experimentation with volume and proportion, a recurring fascination with science-fiction shapes and techno-fabrics, and a modern reworking of classic prints. Shoes—whether vertiginous wedges or knee-high gladiatorial flats—are highly coveted and often bondage-y tough. In addition to revitalizing the namesake collection, Ghesquière has overseen the creation of the Edition line, featuring reissued couture classics, and the Capsule collection of less-expensive runway-inspired pieces, which make up the bulk of the business.
“The genius of Balenciaga is Ghesquière's projection of couture techniques into the world of new technology. A crude stab at describing it might be 'sci-fi couture,' but the truth is his mind-set renders stock fashion vocabulary redundant. Ghesquière works without references or narrative, pushing experimentation with fabric and cut to the nth degree. Cleverer still is the sense of a grounded core: the recognizable, desirable developments of pants (the evolution of his jodhpurs in mackintosh fabric; the sophisticated motocross shapes), and the precious, shiny, chic bags clutched in every hand.”—Sarah Mower Style.com
Nicolas Ghesquière