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Daily Fashion & Runway News
Cerruti may no longer be a household name, but with a relaunch under the direction of Yves Saint Laurent–trained Jean-Paul Knott, the line may return to the spotlight. Nino Cerruti took over his family’s wool business in the fifties and designed his first men's collection in 1967, considered revolutionary at the time for its meticulous lines and quality materials. Ten years later, Cerruti launched his women's line, followed by fragrance, jeans, accessories, and more. It became a favorite in Hollywood, with Jack Nicholson, Julia Roberts, Richard Gere, Tom Hanks, and Denzel Washington on its fan-list. Narciso Rodriguez even did time—briefly—as Cerruti’s creative director in the nineties. Nino Cerruti created his last collection in 2002. The company then struggled under a string of new owners and designers, and declared bankruptcy in 2004. The hiatus ended when the company found a new financial backer, and with a spring 2009 men's collection under Knott's belt, the fashion world has its fingers crossed for a comeback.
“It's great that Jean-Paul Knott has been given the opportunity to re-enter the fashion arena with his position at Cerruti, but, as of now, the job doesn't seem to have inspired him in any particular way. His collection might best be described as Calvin Klean—contemporary sportswear signatures stripped of personality. The color palette was minimal (primarily gray and white) with outfits composed of the same silhouette-elongating shade, but paradoxically, the tailoring emphasized a degree of uptightness that felt out of sync with the season.”—Tim Blanks Men.Style.com
“Neat Duchess of Windsor coats with the look of Julianne Moore's '40s costumes in The End of the Affair are interpreted in subtly beautiful Cerruti fabrics—like a black wool flecked with ruby glitter, or a pepper-and-salt tweed that catches a bordeaux-colored shadow in movement. The retro ladylike look follows through to the longer skirts with a graceful swing to them, and to the accessories, which included those all-too-familiar open-toed '40s sandals (shown with old-fashioned back-seamed stockings) and tiny fur tippets at the neck”—Hamish Bowles Style.com
Richard Nicoll