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Daily Fashion & Runway News
What began as a side business making costumes for styling assignments in Tokyo in the late sixties has morphed into a $180 million fashion empire with over 200 franchises around the globe. With rustic denim womenswear inspired by Japanese peasantry, Rei Kawakubo set up over 100 Comme des Garçons (French for “like some boys”) shops across Japan in the seventies. Then, in 1981, she brought her first collection to Paris. Bathed in black, it featured strong but conflated silhouettes that honored provocation over fit. The mystery (and the austerity) has continued with Kawakubo’s recent jones for temporary “guerilla” stores, not to mention the work of her protégé, Junya Watanabe, who presented his own womenswear line under CDG in 1992, followed by a menswear collection in 2001. Though earlier pieces bent the edge of avant-garde—think three-armed jackets, face-shielding turtlenecks, form-fitting gingham numbers stuffed with down bulges in monochrome black—recent collections have been a bit more mainstream, with suits hewn from gold- and silver-flecked tweed, Rolling Stone tongue patterns, and floral-motif dresses.
“I love how Kawakubo has the freedom of mind, the intensity, to take a shape and simply explore it, allowing different fabrics to guide her and her patternmakers. And that's partly why the results seem so child-like.”—Cathy Horyn The New York Times
“Rei Kawakubo has enjoyed a long and fruitful career of iconoclastic controversy, rich in cultural subtexts.”—Tim Blanks Men.Style.com
“Shops are clothes just put in a gorgeous box. But for me, the box itself is as important as the clothes. What is interesting is that the whole operation — the process, the finding of all the materials, their feeling, the coming together of the people and all that implies — is shown in the resulting environment.”—Rei Kawakubo The International Herald Tribune
Rei Kawakubo