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Daily Fashion & Runway News
Sep 10, 2009
With Maggie Gyllenhaal, Iman, and Daphne Guinness.
Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten rose in the early eighties at a time when the fashion industry turned its attention to Belgium, a city that produced a collective of avant-garde designers who graduated from Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts and were nicknamed the Antwerp Six (which also includes Ann Demeulemeester). His debut collection in 1986 garnered so much international press that Barneys New York immediately picked it up, a monumental career highlight and widely considered his "big break." By 1989 he opened his own boutique in Antwerp and two years later launched menswear with a show in Paris, where he also went on to show womenswear since 1993. The label continues to grow, touting five boutiques and 500 storefronts by 2008, and the designer won the CFDA International Award the same year. And with each collection critics' praise the designer's unique poetic and cerebral look—unassuming textures, controlled layering, and most famously art-inspired prints, all of which are developed in-house.
“Mr. van Noten made prints look especially desirable, combining computer-manipulated images of irises, marigolds and tropical plants in richly exotic, intentionally contrasting patterns. The effect was so gratifyingly dizzying that one had fleeting visions of chinoiserie wallpaper or the crisp blue and white of Delft ceramics clashing in a blend of ethnic and cultural references, of Goa beach wraps, Japanese kimonos and pajama bottoms sprayed with a bouquet of roses.”—Eric Wilson The New York Times
“He is one of very few designers with a sense of style and aesthetics, deciding everything, including his house and his garden…. He has a feel for color that is so subtle. And he does everything without advertising. That's unique.”—Kaat Debo International Herald Tribune
“The graphic blend of stripes and checks, for flattering cotton dresses and jackets shown mainly with loose, crisp shorts, was new, but it was how Mr. Van Noten put everything together—the soft turbans, the silver-ball jewelry, the untucked white shirt over a gold beaded skirt—that made the chic procession so beguiling to watch.”—Cathy Horyn The New York Times
“Dries Van Noten mixes pattern, colour and ethnic references like no one else. To assemble a collection, he might travel from the foothills of the Himalayas to Morocco, and then east again to Outer Mongolia. His clothes are addictive - once you buy a pair of trousers, you want the hand-embroidered, wrap-around sari skirt to wear over them. Then, before you know it, you are the proud owner of a complete Dries wardrobe (and considerably poorer, too).”—Tamsin Blanchard The Independent
Dries Van Noten