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Jun 30, 2009
With Fergie and Jean Paul Gaultier.
After working for Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, Jean Paul Gaultier set out on his own to create a womenswear line. The label’s gender-bending, deconstructed aesthetic, and risqué collaborations—like Madonna’s infamous cone-shaped bra for the 1990 Blonde Ambition tour—gave the designer his “enfant terrible” reputation. He’s also known as one of the industry’s master tailors, with a knack for tuxes, trenches, and leather, and a tendency to embrace equestrian, military, and royal tropes—all with a sense of fun. In addition to the clothes—now licensed by Aeffe and including menswear—Gaultier created a successful fragrance line, packaged in his signature torso-shaped bottles. His first couture collection didn’t come until 1997, but has been critically acclaimed since its beginnings. In 1999, Hermès bought 35 percent of the Jean Paul Gaultier company, which gave the brand capital to open up stores in East Asia. It also opened up another window for the designer; in 2004, Hermès hired him as head womenswear designer for the label.
“One of Jean Paul Gaultier's most enduringly charming qualities is the way he incorporates his own loyalties, passions, and (but of course) Frenchness into his collections.”—Tim Blanks Men.Style.com
“The point was never to break the rules and things like that. I never did it as something to be known for. When I did the skirts for men, it was not to provoke and shock the people, it was only because I thought that people were changing — that men were changing — and their views were changing so that it was no longer a shame to express femininity. Is it feminine to dress to be seductive? Why should seduction only be feminine? To me it felt natural that people were ready to change. It was something I was doing innocently — not completely innocently, knowing it could provoke — but I did not do it to provoke. I thought other people were thinking the same thing of wanting something else.”—Jean Paul Gaultier On the Runway, nytimes.com
Jean Paul Gaultier