Jil Sander
The Label
A former editor for the German fashion magazine Petra, Jil Sander opened her first boutique in Hamburg in 1968, selling her own pieces alongside those of celebrity designers like Sonia Rykiel. Though her “purity” aesthetic—austere suits and coats, embellishment-free cashmere knits, and monochrome silk dresses in whites, browns, and blacks—helped establish her cult following, Sander’s last collections as the label’s designer departed from the spartan formula with strokes of color (sherbet-hued dresses, white jackets painted with blue streaks) and flair (fringed separates, sequined numbers). New creative director Raf Simons has furthered this proposition with appliquéd shorts; electric red, orange, and blue outerwear; and blousy, one-button coats.
The Look
Luxe-minimalism. Impeccably tailored suits, and knits in an array of experimental cuts and techno fabrics.
The Designer
After leaving her own house in 2000 (to take up gardening!), Sander made a vaunted return in spring 2003, cranking out four highly praised collections. However, a year and a half later, she terminated her contract with then-owners the Prada Group, which hired Belgian menswear designer Raf Simons as creative director in 2005. Known for his futuristic suits and military-inspired knits, Simons debuted his first women’s collection for the label—a slightly tweaked set of Sander faves—during the spring 2007 shows in Milan.
