“I try to make men look masculine and credible, while most designers throw out either asexual, fey boys or exaggerated super-macho men. It's one extreme or the other on the runway and not a lot to do with how real guys want to dress.”

“The ingenuity with which he layers outerwear, for instance: a quilted jacket over a cloth coat, a shearling over a suit jacket, a faux waistcoat attached to a parka (that piece has become something of a signature look). His affection for the style tribes of his native England also threads through his career.”

“Suits are in the ascendancy, and this Milan-based British menswear designer cuts a mean one. For fall, he worked two themes: formal eveningwear and the army. That translated into trim black coats inset with satin cummerbunds (a timely detail given fashion's ongoing obsession with the waist), curving pencil skirts with tuxedo stripes, and lapel-less jackets, all tailored with a military precision. Slim pants with a sexy swagger were a highpoint, especially for those of us who miss Helmut Lang.”