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Daily Fashion & Runway News
She's been crowned the “Queen of Knits” and “Coco Rykiel” by the American press for her quirky, deconstructed garb that upended Left Bank chic, but it all began when Parisian Rykiel starting sewing stylish maternitywear for her pregnant self in the early sixties. Aside from window-dressing her father’s shops in her teens, Rykiel had no formal training. But she soon began designing knitwear with resources from her retailer husband’s business, creating the iconic, shrunken “poor boy” sweater. By 1968, Rykiel opened her own boutique on the Left Bank, from which she hawked her covetable knits. From there, she proceeded to invert seams, de-line looks, and add other non-precious, fun effects to her clothes, winning her a following among the fashion-forward—and the literati (she penned an erotic romance novel about a man, a woman, and a sweater). In 1996, the French government showed its appreciation by awarding her the Legion d’Honneur. Today, her label encompasses lingerie, accessories, children’s clothing, menswear, and beauty, and is still a family-owned business—her daughter Nathalie (who spent more than a decade as creative director) is president and artistic director. In 2008, Gabrielle Greiss—Sonia’s longtime chief assistant—was promoted to creative director of women’s ready-to-wear.
“I didn't have a métier. I was supposed to be a mother, like my mother, who didn't work. I had two children — Nathalie and Jean-Philippe. My husband had a boutique called Laura. I wanted a maternity dress and I couldn't find anything I liked. Everything was abominable. So I made one. Then I made a pullover. Elle put it on the cover. Then WWD elected me the queen of knitwear.”—Sonia Rykiel Women's Wear Daily
“A Sonia Rykiel show is, as they say, a French thing. Season after season, year after year, her collections always look the same. That's not to criticize what she does, but simply to say that Rykiel is so deeply involved with her version of Ça C'est Paris! chic—foxy forties frocks, slinky skinny sweaters, fur stoles, and always, always black hose— that she never feels the need to deviate. Trends of the moment might make themselves felt on her runway, but always in the service of Rykiel's true muse: the très jolie mademoiselle of Left Bank café society.”—Mark Holgate Style.com
“If I don't have any real ideas to put into a dress, it will just fall down on the floor. The Rykiel woman is a nomad—a sophisticated nomad. I love the word sophisticated. I don't like natural. Natural is not interesting at all.”—Sonia Rykiel Interview Magazine
Gabrielle Greiss and Sonia Rykiel