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Daily Fashion & Runway News
Mar 11, 2009
With Claudia Schiffer, Kanye West, and Catherine Deneuve.
Algerian-born Yves Saint Laurent and business partner/ex-lover Pierre Bergé started the brand in 1962, after Saint Laurent was laid off from his top rank at Dior following his stint in the French Army. Going solo, it turned out, galvanized YSL’s creative output and career. The designer is credited with a great many things: the women’s tuxedo (and Le Smoking), the trench coat and peacoat as high fashion, safari-chic, the shirt dress, the iconic Mondrian dress (and the subsequent graphic print craze), “ethnic-inspired” and beatnik gear, and numerous other sartorial coups that have penetrated our collective style-unconscious. Saint Laurent was also was the first couturier to market and cultivate his prêt-a-porter line Rive Gauche, and he was among the first to feature black models. In 1993, the house was sold to pharmaceuticals company Sanofi for over $600 million before the Gucci Group acquired the brand. Yves stayed aboard, designing the couture collection until his retirement in 2002, which marked the shuttering of that arm of the business. Rive Gauche was designed by Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz for three seasons starting in 1998, and then by Creative Director Tom Ford, who brought the brand back into the spotlight with heightened sex appeal and provocative marketing, somewhat to the dismay of Saint Laurent, who was not particularly fond of Ford’s aesthetic. Stefano Pilati is the current designer, and though his roots are in Milan, his sensibility is more in line with that of the late Monsieur Saint Laurent, who died in 2008 at the age of 71.
“Fashions fade, style is eternal.”—Yves Saint Laurent
“The most important thing for Saint Laurent is not to follow or precede, but to always be of his time. Not in the past, not in the future, just at the right place.”—Pierre Bergé TIME magazine
“Saint Laurent's fashion no longer provokes a shock of novelty, but Yves Saint Laurent knows not only how to create but also how to maintain.”—Marc Jacobs TIME magazine
“Originally a maverick and a generator of controversy — in 1968, his suggestion that women wear pants as an everyday uniform was considered revolutionary — Mr. Saint Laurent developed into a more conservative designer, a believer in evolution rather than revolution. He often said that all a woman needed to be fashionable was a pair of pants, a sweater and a raincoat.”—Anne-Marie Schiro The New York Times
“Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Dior all did extraordinary things. But they worked within a particular style, Yves Saint Laurent is like a combination of all of them. He's got the form of Chanel with the opulence of Dior and the wit of Schiaparelli.”—Christian Lacroix The Guardian
Stefano Pilati