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Fashion-Industry Insiders Predict This Season’s Hottest Shows

We asked fashion-industry insiders which fall 2006 Fashion Week shows they’re anticipating the most—in addition to Karl Lagerfeld, of course.

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Amy Sacco  

My favorite Brits Matthew Williamson and Luella Bartley are back and are both at the top of my list. And my pals at Proenza Schouler -- I love their collections but I also go because we’re such good friends. We’re like the Three Musketeers. I’ll definitely be at the Alice & Olivia show. Designer Stacey Bendet is so much fun; she shows up at Bungalow 8 in cheerleader and roller-girl costumes regardless of whether it’s Halloween. Party-wise, it’s all about Yvonne Force’s 40th Dynasty-themed birthday party. I wanted to go as Crystal, but she is, so I’m Sammy Joe.
Amy Sacco, Owner, Bungalow 8 and Bette Restaurant

Vera Wang is at the peak of her talent. She had a fantastic year last year, and I’m looking forward to seeing her again. She’s really in her stride. Francisco Costa’s past two collections for Calvin Klein were beautiful, and I’m looking forward to seeing what he’s doing this year. Thakoon was great last season; his clothing is very delicately designed, with a lightness of hand, which is unusual for a young designer. Also, Proenza Schouler. They don’t necessarily have the breadth or impact of, say, Marc Jacobs, but they’re major American designers at this point. Marc Jacobs is the most interesting to watch in New York. It’s always great, and if it’s not great, then it’s controversial.
Harriet Mays Powell, Fashion editor, New York Magazine

I’m stopping at Boudicca. I love to wear it. The clothing is incredible because of the details, and the details are not always obvious. I like Gen Art. You never know what you’re going to get. It’s just refreshing; it’s not safe. I may not like it personally or editorially; I just like that it exists. Michael Kors can put together a collection. A lot of people roll their eyes because he’s not the most avant-garde fashion designer, but he knows who he’s designing for. It’s very thought-out. Costello Tagliapietra has incredibly gorgeous dresses; so elegant, classic, and beautiful. Chaiken is someone to watch—he gets it.
Rima Suqi, Best Bets editor, New York Magazine

I’m really looking forward to the delay before the Marc Jacobs show so that I can catch up with friends and then do my taxes.
Horacio Silva, Features director, T: The New York Times Style Magazine

Karl Lagerfeld is a genius, so that show is a no-brainer. And I always go to Betsey Johnson for some silliness, but this season it’s all about the up-and-comings. I am sensing that there are going to be some great collections from smaller labels—like Marchesa and Manuel—and that’s what I’m on the hunt for.
Roger Moenks, Photographer, coopInterview, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar

I am looking forward to shows that express the passion of a designer, not a trend report. I can't wait to see Donna Karan—her own pre-fall reinterpretation of her first collection made me drool. Doo.Ri, Sari Gueron, and the Ruffian boys are all exploring modern, sophisticated ways of dressing—thank you. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein. Can we please make sure his clothes get made? Spring was flawless. And Marc Jacobs. I love how agitated the fashion folk get when he changes direction. Bring it on.
Michael Fink, Fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue

I can’t wait to see Alice Ritter’s showroom presentation. She's truly talented. The spring/-summer collection was really cool—a lot of corsets, ruffles, and new proportion pants. She has a very interesting and unique way to mix references—Woody Allen meets Ingmar Bergman meets CocoRosie. I love a flamboyant imagination.
Marie Saeki, Founder and owner, Marie Saeki Public Relations

I am really excited about seeing Karl Lagerfeld. Melanie Ward is styling the show, and you just know the whole production is going to be so well executed and on the edge. Luella Bartley is back. Her shows always stand out; they are so un-New York in terms of music, makeup, and styling. I’m also excited about Sue Stemp’s presentation; she’s really cool. Her own personal style is so fresh, and I’m positive the collection will be the same.
Keegan Singh, Stylist, Vogue and V Magazine

I love that the New York collections are first. New York designers have such incredible energy, and they inspire boundless enthusiasm for what’s to come next. This season is especially fabulous because Karl Lagerfeld is showing the Lagerfeld Gallery collection here.
Glenda Bailey, Editor-in-chief, Harper’s Bazaar

I’m really looking forward to the Derek Lam show. Lam is relatively new to New York fashion, and he’s really coming into his own. He’s such a great talent, and it’s nice to see his signature style emerge and to watch him grow creatively. - Also, Vera Wang! As I wrote in the magazine ("Vera Wang’s Second Honeymoon,” January 23, 2006), her ready-to-wear collection has become one of New York’s best. Her touch with fabric and her eye for color are unrivaled. I was lucky enough to see it in early stages while working on the story, and I can’t wait to see how it’s all come out.
Amy Larocca, Style editor, New York Magazine


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