Only last week, woolly, dense sweaters and jackets still seemed appealingly cozy. Now they are unbearably itchy and depressing. Pale colors and tender fabrics that echo spring’s poetic undertakings (unfurling green leaves, fragile buds, that kind of thing)—these are what should be in the closet, even if it is, really, still too cold to wear them. The pieces here have none of the English-nursery sweetness of past seasons; instead, they’re a little rumpled, a little wrinkled, and look more like they spent a night in the woods than an afternoon drinking tea.
On branch (left to right): Ann Demeulemeester hemp waistcoat, $2,590, hemp trousers, $2,130, and wool-and-feather top, $7,130, by special order at Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., at 61st St. (212-826-8900). Eyelet dress, $8,125 at Roberto Cavalli, 711 Madison Ave., at 63rd St. (212-755-7722). Jean Paul Gaultier silk tulle dress, price upon request, by special order at Aeffe USA (212-632-9300). Nina Ricci printed silk dress with sequin-embroidered overlay, price upon request at Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., at 57th St. (212-753-7300). Multicolored organza knee-length dress, $5,065 at Prada, 841 Madison Ave., at 70th St. (212-327-4200).
On the ground (left to right): John Galliano organza minidress, $2,500 at Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Ave., at 50th St. (212-753-4000). Mousseline-silk dress with rosette detailing, $4,140, and turkey feather capelet, $1,545, at Sonia Rykiel, 849 Madison Ave., nr. 70th St. (212-396-3060).