New York Look

ISSEY MIYAKE

"I just felt that the clothes were really, really conceptual. I wanted the hair to look dream-like. More like young women rather than looking like freaks. You think, where do you want your eyes to go? You can go completely bonkers, but why? You want them to look beautiful. We were drying the hair and then over drying. We put powder in the roots to take away the sheen. Their hair kinda floated."

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

"Because the collection was in collaboration with Hermès, there was a lot of leather and tailoring, and I thought, 'I want to do something that comes from an equestrian beginning.'"

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

"I did braids, then I thought, 'This is a bit Helga.' I made three braids and pulled them apart, so they became softer. I folded the pieces under themselves, and sprayed with hairspray until the ends were wet. It’s completely held together with product. "

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

"We wanted to do something organic-looking. We wanted to make the hair look like hay or straw. Constructed, but deconstructed; a massive contradiction.We folded the hair and tied it over itself; it’s folded through the ribbon around the hat. It’s sprouts of hair, very reedlike, razorlike— everything isn’t perfect. I believe if I make a mistake I made it for a reason, because I think it takes you someplace else. Which is good, because Ann wants you to take it someplace else."

THAKOON

"Thakoon mixes very old school ladies’ patterns with tacky ways of reproducing them. Lots of shine with argyle knits. Plastic flowers in some of the dresses. The way I make it modern is to make it look like it’s not set: Kinda static and windswept. I teased the roots, then hit them with the straightening iron for added texture, then brushed it out. To create the back, the models put their heads upside down, and I grabbed the hair into a loose pontytail. I squished it to the head, and put two to three hairpins in. It almost looked like it was about to fall down, but didn’t. "