
Harold Koda explains the design legacy of a man more known for his Studio 54 time.
In its new incarnation, the white shirt loses all prior associations, gaining volume and surface detail.
Ballgowns aren’t a standard item in most wardrobes, but designers love to let their fancies lead the way. Giambattista Valli sent out a princess-worthy pouf of scarlet, while Alexander McQueen put his swan queen in creamy feathers.
Looks from left: Giambattista Valli, Marc JacobsHemlines dropped precipitously at Dolce & Gabbana (with a nod to seventies-era Lauren Hutton), and at Marc Jacobs (where they looked Edwardian slim).
Looks from left: Dolce & Gabbana, Marc JacobsBut it should look like it is. And if it comes with matching bracelets, even better.
Necklace: BalenciagaElaborate tights are fall’s bulk-buy accessory. Rodarte ripped its to delicate cobwebs, Just Cavalli picked a leopard print, and Sonia Rykiel covered hers with mod color blocks visible for miles.
Tights from left: Chloé, Just Cavalli, Rodarte, Sonia Rykiel, ChanelAs a print on a dress at Jean Paul Gaultier and Sonia Rykiel, or simply with inferences of log-cabin living at Ann Demeulemeester, the leafy canopy inspires.
Looks from left: Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, Ann DemeulemeesterStilettos are back—and dangerous.
Boot: Yves Saint LaurentThis is not a simple little keep-your- head-warm moment. Stephen Jones created a Hitchcockian fantasy (pictured) for John Galliano, while Alexander McQueen showed rich, Indian bridal jewels draped over foreheads. At Junya Watanabe, soft gray fabric extended over the face to a wrapped-and-tied headpiece.
Hat: John GallianoAnd some may be eligible for a Pritzker. Jil Sander’s layered piece seems made after Frank Gehry, while Maison Martin Margiela’s needs its own zoning board.
Looks from left: Maison Martin Margiela, Jil Sander