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Dresses Are Confections

The shapes were simple, the surface treatments profound. The Mulleavy sisters, who design Rodarte, used cascading beads, frayed silk, and fragile pink poppies to create a look that evoked French couture.

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Wood nymphs are moving in. At Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, and elsewhere, models in gauzy frocks and wild hair looked like they had been romping with satyrs.

Clothes are a playground. Bits of flowers, ribbons, appliqué, beads—designers including Carolina Herrera and Louise Gray scattered their dresses with joyful decoration.

Plumage is here to stay. The feathers that landed on fall’s collections multiplied in spring. Giambattista Valli’s minidress looked like a newly hatched chick, while Oscar de la Renta played for drama with a spray of black coq feathers.


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