In a nod to private school, designers from indies like Thom Browne to juggernauts such as Ralph Lauren and Salvatore Ferragamo pitched the notion of suits with shorts.
The fever for eighties style continued with outbursts of Skittles-worthy color. When paired with a mostly neutral outfit, it looked sporty, not clownish.
Skinny pants—like Hedi Slimane himself—were on fashion sabbatical. Dolce & Gabbana’s were rumpled, voluminous, and casual, while Yves Saint Laurent’s were pressed, modern, and dressy.
Even Speedo fans Dolce & Gabbana embraced surf trunks for this spring with a Hawaiian-print pair that reached mid-knee. Moschino’s shorts ended mid-shin for more demure coverage.
The silk pj’s Prada showed were too beautiful to wear in the dark. Other designers such as Lanvin suggested sleepwear-inspired clothing appropriate for daytime.
Beefy, warm, and interesting scarves (not those neurasthenic strips from past seasons) were draped around necks by Paul Smith, Dolce & Gabbana, and most vibrantly by Dries Van Noten, who wrapped a vibrant fringed shawl over a burgundy kimono wrap.
Some designers used shiny fabrics to make their collections a little more glitzy, with high-gloss jackets (Burberry Prorsum, Versace) and pants (Calvin Klein).
Women have been layering sheer for years, but this season designers such as Fendi experimented with the texture to introduce some quiet complexity for men.